Chapulines al Ajo con Chile y Sal

 One of the few chefs that I follow is Sean Sherman, a member of the Ogala Lakota tribe who has dedicated his work to preserving the foodways of indigenous peoples throughout Turtle Island (or what non-indigenous people refer to as "North America"). I have dined at Chef Sherman's restaurant, Owamni, which recently closed to make way for an even greater restaurant, Indigena by Owamni. I have also purchased his cookbooks, including his most recent, Turtle Island.

I have been reading the book, which is excellently written and very thorough, planning in my head how I can acquire certain ingredients and when I can make some of the recipes. However, as I reached the section entitled "Mesoamerican Highlands and Pacific Coast," I came across a recipe for Chapulines al Ajo con Chile y Sal. A simple recipe for which I already had all of the ingredients, including the chapulines. 

A couple of years ago, I made Tacos de Chapulines con Tequila y Guacamole. It way my nod to Chef Jose Andres, who served a very similar taco at his restaurant, Oyamel. Ever since then, I have kept dried chapulines in my pantry for future dishes. Now, with Chef Sherman's new cookbook, I had the opportunity to prepare a recipe for chapulines in a different, and more fundamental way.  

Before the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors and colonizers, the indigenous peoples who lived in the States now known as Oaxaca and Puebla, including the Zapotec and the Mixtec, relied upon chapulines as one of their protein sources. In fact, grasshoppers have more protein than beef. Grasshoppers were everywhere. During from spring to fall, farmers would head out early in the morning to collect the insects using special nets. The time of year would usually dictate the size of the grasshopper. Maria Itaka, a writer for Culinary Backstreets, once spoke with Inocencia Mendez, a vendor who owns Chapulines Dona Chencha, a food stall in Oaxaca's Central de Abastos Market. As Mendez observed: 

"The babies are caught in June, the small-medium and medium-sized ones are collected between July and August, and the medium-large and large ones in September, October and even November."

Once collected, the chapulines are washed and then cooked in water, salt, garlic, and lime juice. The chapulines are then dried and toasted on a comal. Once prepared, chapulines are usually served straight as a snack to hungry Oaxacans, or added as a garnish, such as tacos or guacamole, to provide a herbal or briny flavor to the dish.

While many people (including some Savage Boleks other than myself) may find chapulines off-putting, these insects represent a significant part of a cultural and culinary heritage of indigenous peoples across Meso-America. Indeed, the Zapotec and Mixtec peoples -- who live in the present-day states of Oaxaca and Puebla -- have a long history of eating chapulines dating back centuries, whether as a snack (such as this recipe), or incorporated into dishes, such as tacos or tlayudas. 

Finally, the collection, preparation, and consumption of chapulines also represents an environmentally friendly way to protect crops without the use of pesticides. A natural way to engage in pest control.  And, while there are many efforts to industrialize the raising and production of chapulines, pretty much like every other food commodity, we should be supporting those who have gathered, prepared and sold chapulines in the traditional ways. Traditions are worth honoring, which holds true for every culture.

CHAPULINES AL AJO CON CHILE Y SAL

Recipe from Sean Sherman, Turtle Island at pg. 224

Makes 1 cup

Ingredients:

• 3 tablespoons sunflower oil
• 2 garlic gloves, smashed
• 1 cup dried chapulines, preferably unseasoned
• 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
• 1 teaspoon ground chipotle or chile de arbol

Directions:

1. Saute the garlic. Line a plate with paper towels and place near the stove. In a medium skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic, tilting the skillet if necessary to allow it to fry a bit in the oil and cook for about 2 minutes or until fragrant. Using a slotted spoon, remove the garflic from the oil and discard or add to a salsa. 

2. Saute the chapulines. Add the chapulines ot the skillet and stir to coat evenly. Toast for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring frequently until crisped. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the chapulines to the paper towels to drain. Season them with the salt and chile powder and serve. 

PEACE.

Dhal Bhat

"Dhal bhat power, 24 hours."

-- Nepali saying

Many cuisines are readily identifiable by one dish. For example, jollof rice would be cited for the cuisines of Ghana or Nigeria. Sushi could be identified for the cuisine of Japan, while pho could be identified for the cuisine of Vietnam. And, if one had to choose which dish could be representative of Nepali cuisine, that dish would be dhal bhat. 

The name translates literally into lentil soup and rice, which is a very good description of the dish. Yellow or red lentils are prepared with a variety of spices, like mustard, turmeric, coriander and cumin, to prepare a stew that is served alongside or with rice.

Yet, to Nepalis, dhal bhat is not just a dish or even a meal. It is a story as old as the people themselves. Nepali farmers have been cultivating both lentils and rice for centuries. Nepali cooks have take those two building blocks to prepare a dish that became the source of fuel or energy for farmers when they went back into the field. Hence the phrase, "dhal bhat power, 24 hours." Between 400 C.E. and 750 C.E., dhal bhat became more popular generally as both Buddhism and Hinduism, with their emphasis on vegetarian dishes, spread among the Nepali people. As time went on, especially during the thirteenth through eighteenth centuries,  dhal bhat went from representing fuel for farmers to a dish that meant hospitality and community. It was something that not only energized farmers in the fields, but also something that brought families together. Even today, when someone serves dhal bhat, it is a sign of regard and respect of the host toward guests. 

There are regional variations of dhal bhat within Nepal. If one travels the terai, which are the lowlands of western Nepal, they would most likely find a thinner dhal bhat prepared with mustard oil and chiles, making a spicer dish. If they headed into the Himalayan mountains, they would be served a thicker stew, with barley or millet serving as a substitute for the rice. 

I found a recipe for a dhal bhat prepared in connection with the Tibetan Nuns' Project, a charity that supports and educates nuns living in India. The dish caught my attention as part of my own Mindfulness Foodways, where I have been exploring healthier foods to prepare. A dish that could naturally provide power for twenty-four hours is far more preferable than western-style supplements. Although the source describes this dhal bhat as "Tibetan-style," it is very similar to the dishes prepared by Nepalis, whether in the Himalayas or the terai.

This dish challenged me in a few ways, but all of them are good. I have eaten lentil dishes in the past, but they are not a regular part of my culinary repetoire. This dish provided a compelling reason why they should be. Quite frankly, I should be preparing a huge pot of this at the beginning of the week and making a small bowl of this part of my breakfast for the day. That definitely provides me with something to think about. Until then ....

DHAL BHAT

Recipe from the Tibetan Nuns Project

Serves 4

Ingredients:

• 1 cup red lentils
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 1 small red onion, chopped in small dice
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tablespoon ginger minced
• 3/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon mustard seed
• 1/2 teaspoon tumeric
• 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
• 1/2 teaspoon coriander powder
• 1 medium tomato, diced
• 1/2 tablespoon butter or ghee
• 2 tablespoons cilantro and/or green onion, chopped. for garnish
• Water
• Basmati rice
• Indian chutney or pickle (achar) as accompaniment

Directions:

1. Prepare the lentils. Wash the lentils and rinse a couple of time. Be careful to remove any stones. If you have the time, soak the lentils in water as long as you can, up to overnight, before you cook. They can get very soft and can cook faster.

2. Prepare the rice. Prepare the rice according to its instructions. 

3. Prepare the base. Heat the oil in a pan for a minute or two. Add the ginger, garlic and onion and stir fry on high until the onion is a little brown on the edges, about a minute or two. Stir in the cumin seeds, salt, turmeric, mustard seed and coriander powder, turn down the heat to medium and cook for two minutes (stirring often). Add the tomatoes and butter. Stir and cover with the lid and cook for four minutes. 

4. Continue cooking the lentils. Stir in the lentils, cover and cook for 5 minutes. Add one cup of water, cover the lid and cook for 5 more minutes. Stir in 2 more cups of water, as the water will begin to decrease as you cook. Continue to cook on medium heat for 10 minutes. 

5. Finish the dish. Remove from the heat, garnish with the cilantro and/or green onions. Serve immediately with rice. 

PEACE.