For most of its recent history, the bitterness has gotten all of the attention. Since the onset of civil war in 1991, the country has been gripped in a seemingly endless state of violence. As the central government disintegrated, various groups began to assert themselves and battle each other for control. The costs of these battles, over the course of the past thirty years, has resulted in the death of approximately 500,000 people, the displacement of more than 2,000,000 people, the disintegration of governing institutions, and the destruction of infrastructure and public services. If one were to reach back further in time, before the civil war, he or she would encounter a history marked by military rule and colonial conquests, both of which have their own price tags with respect to death and destruction.
Yet, for all this bitterness, there is still the sweet. Somalia is a land of natural contrasts running along the Gulf of Aden and the Indian Ocean. There is a diversity of environments, from the coastal forests and mangroves in the southwestern region (along the Indian ocean and the border with Kenya) to the bushlands and thickets of the Somalia-Acacia Commiphora Bushlands. There is also an interesting diversity of plants and animals. Somalia supposedly boasts of the largest population of camels in the world, as well as lions, Sudanese cheetahs, African bush elephants, gazelles, zebras and, of course, the Somali wild ass.
The sweet can be found not just in the place, but also in the Somali people and their culture. For example, there is a long literary tradition. The 19th century British explorer, Richard Francis Burton, once wrote in his book First Footsteps in Eastern Africa that the land which would become Somalia
teems with poets ... every man has his recognized position in literature as accurately defined as though he had been reviewed in a century of magazines - the fine ear of this people causing them to take the greatest pleasure in harmonious sounds and poetic expressions .... Every chief in this country must have a panegyric to be sung by his clan, and the great patronize light literature by keeping a poet.
There are approximately thirty different forms of Somali poetry, many of which differ in terms of the number of syllables per verse: from Gabay, with 14 to 16 syllables, to Hees Xoolad, with only 4 to 5 syllables.
The sweet is not only found in the poetry of the Somalis, but also their music because, historically speaking, both were tied together. Poetry would be set to music by way of a chant or a song. The words were always more important than the music. Indeed, some genres of poetry -- such as Gabay, Jiifto, or Geeraar -- were typically accompanied by the clapping of hands, without any musical instruments. Another form of poetry, Buraanmbur, which is recited at formal occasions such as weddings, is recited with the use of drums. And, if one travels into southern Somalia, the poetry may be performed with a variety of different instruments such as drums, flutes, hand carved clappers and a lyre.
Colonialism brought changes to Somali music, most notably the separation of music from poetry. English, French and Italians introduced music as a stand alone concept in its modern form, which was reinforced by the radio. Somali musicians incorporated foreign genres, such as American soul, Jamaican reggae and Arabic maqaam, with their own traditional musical instruments and folk stylings.
The literary and musical history and traditions of the Somali people are just one of the many aspects of the sweet that can be found in Somalia. It is unfortunate that such sweetness does not prevail over the bitter, which tends to get the most attention.
MAIN COURSE
Turning to my personal culinary challenge, I needed a main course from Somali cuisine for my personal culinary challenge. I went through quite a few recipes before I decided to make Surbiyaan Hilib Adhi, which is dish of lamb with rice that very much resembles a biryani.
Biryani originates from the Persian word burian, which means "fried before cooking." While it may have originated in Persia, biryani became a staple of the royal kitchens of the Mughal empire. The empire ruled over a large territory that included substantial parts of modern-day Afghanistan, Pakistan and India. As with any empire, the Mughal could not withstand time, or, for that matter, colonialism. However, biryani - with its combination of vegetables and meats - continued to thrive throughout the subcontinent. The dish also extended its reach, especially to the east, into the Arabian peninsula. It became known as zurbian in Saudi Arabia and zurbiyan in Yemen. Eventually, the dish crossed the Red Sea into Somalia, where it became known as surbiyaan.
SURBIYAAN HILIB ADHI (LAMB WITH RICE)
Recipe from My Somali Food
Serves 4
Ingredients:
- 1/4 cup oil
- 2 onions, 1 sliced and 1 chopped
- 1/2 cup raisins
- 1 teaspoon saffron threads
- 3 cups basmati rice
- 5-6 cups water, plus 3/4 cup water
- 2 pounds lamb, medium cut
- 2 medium tomatoes, chopped
- 2 cloves garlic, chopped
- 1-2 tablespoons cilantro leaves
- 2 teaspoons coriander powder
- 2 teaspoons cumin powder
- 2-4 tablespoons of oil
- 5 cardamom seeds cracked
- 2 cinnamon sticks
- 2 tablespoons lemon juice
DESSERT
Although I was looking forward to the lamb dish, I did a lot of research to find another dish that I could prepare as part of this challenge. Ordinarily, I am looking for side dishes or appetizers, but, this time I came across something that could either be a breakfast or dessert. It is Malawah. It is a crepe like pancake made with ground cardamom and ginger, which, along with the sugar, provide the sweetness.
MALAWAH (SOMALI SWEET PANCAKE)
Recipe from The Spruce Eats and The Somali Kitchen
Serves 4
Ingredients:
- 2 cups flour
- 2.5 cups milk
- 2 large eggs
- 1 tablespoon sugar
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
- 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
- 1 pinch salt
- 2 tablespoons oil
- Honey, sugar to garnish
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