Around the World in 80 Dishes: Canada

Once again I find myself trying to design a challenge involving a country that is comprised of multiple provinces, each with its own interesting takes on cuisine. The country is Canada, which has ten (10) provinces and three (3) territories that span the entire northern expanse of North America. Within those thirteen regions, there are the first nations or indigenous peoples, and, those who came during the colonization of the lands, whether English (as in most of Canada) or French (as in Quebec). The range of cuisine is as broad as the geographic range of the country. The only question for me is where do I start?

I decided to approach this challenge as I did my challenge to cook a main course from Spain, that is, I start with a random address. From that point, I could build the challenge. The problem is that the random address generator provided me with half a dozen addresses, spread across the country. When I found a generator that would give me one address, the website put me in Melfort, Saskatchewan. A city in the middle of a Canadian province that itself is close to the middle of Canada. Now that I had my location, I could move on to the next question: what is the cuisine of Saskatchewan? 

For starters, Saskatchewan has the largest proportion of indigenous peoples to the general population of all the Canadian provinces.  There are seventy (70) First Nations in the province, with five linguistic groups: Nehiyawak (Cree), Dakota (Sioux), Dene (Chipewyan), Nakota (Assniboine) and Nahkawininiwak (Salteaux). Those nations have arrived in the area approximately 11,000 years ago.  They established complex societies on the plains, with cultures recognizing that they were a part of, but not central to all that was around them. The closeness to the land and the environment is a critical part of their beliefs and societies, which also included a recognition of the need to share food and other necessities. 

Over the centuries, other groups emigrated and migrated to the Canadian plains. One such group is the Doukhobors, ethnic Russians who, although Christian, rejected the Russian Orthodox church.  Doukhobors practiced a different kind of Christianity, one based more on spiritualism.  Doukhobors believe that the Bible is not enough, that they have to internalize the living spirit of God. They are pacifists who tended to live in their own communities, rejecting materialism but working together. Needless to say, the Russian government mistreated the Doukhobors, leading to their wish to emigrate to other countries.  The government agreed in 1897 to let them leave Russia, but with  three conditions: (1) they never return; (2) they pay their own way; and (3) their imprisoned leaders remained incarcerated before they could leave. Many accepted those conditions and they left for Canada, settling in southern Saskatchewan (as well as southern Alberta and British Columbia). Once they arrived, they established "colonies" in block settlement areas or reserves.  These included the "Thunder Hill Colony," the "Whitesand Colony," the "Good Spirit Lake Annex," and the "Rosthern Colony." 

I have decided that, for this challenge, I would make two recipes from these two ethnic groups. I would first make Bannock, which has its ties to Native American cuisine in the province.  I would then turn to the main course, Shishlik, or the kebabs of the Russian immigrants. This latter dish will satisfy the personal culinary challenge.

BREAD

Bannock is a type of bread that originated in Scotland, where is was known as bannach or "morsel." The Scottish prepared used wheat flour to make this bread, which is really like a big biscuit. They cooked the bread by a fire using a griddle known as a Bannock Stone.  Bannock could be made in other ways, such as frying it or baking it. 

Scottish explorers and traders brought bannock with them as they made their way across the new world, including the United States and Canada.  Some indigenous peoples, such as the Metis, adopted the bread and made it their own. Rather than using wheat, as the Scots did, the indigenous people used corn flour  or flour made from local plants to prepare the bread.  

For this recipe, I wanted to try to recreate the bread using recipes from Saskatchewan. One recipe paired the Bannock with chokecherry syrup. Chokecherries are tart and bitter little berries. The range of these little berries runs from the plains of Canada south to the northern United States. The berries served as an important part of the diet for indigenous nations who lived in that region. While I searched to find chokecherries online, I was unable to do so (most likely because I was making this recipe out of season). If one cannot find chokecherries, the recommended substitute is tart cherries. However, I could not find tart cherries in the store and I did not want to buy them online.  In the end, I decided that I would simply use some cranberries that I had in the freezer, which were left over from the holidays.  

BANNOCK (LUSKNIKN) WITH CHOKECHERRY SYRUP

Recipe from Jenni Lenard, available at Refinery29

Ingredients (for the bannock):

• 3 cups whole wheat flour
• 3 cups all-purpose flour
• 3 tablespoons baking powder
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/8 cup brown sugar
• 1/2 cup oil or melted lard
• 3 to 3 1/2 cups cold water

Ingredients (for the Chokecherry Syrup):

• 2 cups chokecherries, rinsed well (substitute tart cherries)
• 2 cups water
• 3 cups sugar
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice

Directions:

1. Combine the dry ingredients. In a large bowl, combine both flours, baking powder, salt and brown sugar. 

2. Add the wet ingredients. Add water and oil and mix with your hands until all the dry ingredients are incorporated.  If making bannock on a stick, add the water gradually until the dough is the consistency of a thick biscuit dough. For baked bannock, use 3 1/2 to 4 cups of water. Turn out onto a floured counter and knead for a few minutes.

3. Bake the bannock. Form into a 12 inch by 12 inch circle and bake for 30 to 35 minutes at 375 degrees Fahrenheit until golden brown.

4. Make the Chokecherry Syrup. Take 1/4 cup of the berries and grind them using a mortar and pestle (this releases the flavor of the seeds).  Place a pot with the whole berries and the water.  Bring to a boil then reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain, pressing the berries to release extra juices.  You will need 12 cups to make the syrup, so pour extra hot water over the berries if needed.  Add the sugar and lemon juice to the chokecherry juice and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, 25 to 30 minutes until clear and thickened slightly. 

MAIN COURSE

Sometimes it seems inevitable that I would be making a kebab recipe as part of a challenge. Given the ubiquitous nature of skewered meats around the world, the challenge has been to try to find a kebab recipe that sets itself apart from the endless multitude of recipes on the internet.  

This recipe, Shishlik, accomplishes that feat, not because of any specific ingredients or cooking methods, but because of its history. As noted above, this recipe tells the story of a particular group of Russian immigrants, the Doukhobors, who made their way and eventually settled in Saskatchewan. As they built their communities, they continued their culinary traditions. This continuity helped to establish shishliki as a food for both family and community events in southeastern Saskatchewan, around the cities of Yorkton, Kamsack and Canora. 

Shisliki is typically made with marinated and grilled lamb, although the recipe that I found leaves open the possibility of preparing skewers of chicken or pork. I decided to keep with the tradition and I used a leg of lamb to prepare this dish. The lamb cut into pieces, seasoned with salt and pepper, and then marinated with onions. (There are some recipes that use vinegar and/or lemon juice as part of the marinade, but I stuck with a fairly basic recipe). The lamb and the onions are left in the refrigerator to  marinate overnight, but, I should note that some recipes call for a longer period of time. For example, the town of Kamsack notes, on its website, the lamb should marinate for up to four days.  That is a little too long for me. I marinated the lamb for a much shorter time.  

SHISHLIK

Recipe from Saskborder

Serves 6

Ingredients:

• 2 pounds of chicken, pork or lamb, cut into 1 1/2 inch cubes
• Large onions sliced
• Kosher salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Canola oil

Directions:

1.  Prepare the skewers.  Toss the meat and onions in a bowl and add vegetable oil until everything is coated.  Add the salt and black pepper and toss until everything is coated.  Place the meat in a bag and refrigerate it overnight.  

2. Grill the skewers.  Prepare a fire or heat a gas grill on high. Place the skewers next to the fire or on a cooler part of the grill. Turn occasionally and grill until cooked to the proper internal temperature.

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In the end, I am happy that my personal culinary challenge is based on the Shishlik, rather than the Bannock. The challenge proved why I don't bake, as the bannock was not baked all the way through. I was still able to salvage enough of it to eat, but I figured that either I needed to make the bread thinner or it needed to bake longer. I also had to reduce the syrup for a longer period of time than what is called for in the recipe. Yet, the lamb skewers turned out perfectly, with pink meat in the center and crispy grilled edges to the lamb. Given the lamb counts as the main course, I can tally this challenge as a win. Until next time ... 

ENJOY!