Oysterfest 2024

It is that time of year again. The leaves start turning various colors. The cool breeze kicks up now and again. And there are oysters aplenty. That is, if you happen to find yourself in St. Michaels, Maryland and on the grounds of the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum for its annual Oysterfest. 

The Oysterfest is perhaps one of my most favorite events. I look forward to it every year. To be sure, I love the opportunity to eat oysters in a variety of ways, whether raw, steamed, fried (or, this year, they even had smoked oysters). It is even better when one can chase those bivalves with a beer from a local brewery, such as RAR or St. Michael's Brewery. I also like perusing the stands of local artisans of every kind, taking a particular interest in the photography of everything about the Chesapeake Bay, from the iconic Bay Bridge, to the workboats that ply the waters, to the crabs, fish and oysters that take residence in the bay.

Everyone obviously comes for the oysters, and there are always the mainstays at the event. There is the Talbot Watermen Association, who have numerous shuckers preparing plates of six or twelve oysters, raw or steamed. The six oysters to the right came from the Talbot Watermen Association. Other oyster vendors included the Choptank Oyster Company, which had a much smaller crew shucking choptank sweets oysters, and Slow Descent Oysters, which introduced smoked oysters to the event. 

There were other food stands as well. In addition to a few food truckers, there was the Tilghman United Methodist Church. Volunteers offered fried oysters, as well as their cookbook, What's Cooking at Tilghman's Island, which I purchased a few years ago and which I occasionally peruse looking for something "local" to cook. And, lest I forget, one of the favorite stands in the opinion of my little big guy - Big Bad Wolf Bacon. They are a regular at Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum events; and, in this case, bacon works very well with oysters. (One piece of advice for the future - they should work with the Talbot Watermen Association to sell a bacon wrapped oyster.) 

However, there is one part of the Oysterfest that always piques my interest, or, I should say, the culinary motivation of Chef Bolek. It is the Oyster Stew competition. Every Oysterfest features the competition, where local restaurants, chefs and cooks compete to see who has the best oyster stew. 

We have been going to Oysterfest since 2018; and, with the exception of last year, every year that we attended the event, we took part in the competition. Not as someone who has offered an oyster stew for judging (although the thought has crossed my mind on a couple of occasions), but as a judge. People have an opportunity to sample each of the oyster stews and then vote for their favorite one. 

Having judged several of these competitions, I am always struck by the different approaches that one can take with something like an oyster stew. This year's competition was no different. There were six oyster stews from six different restaurants or chefs. 

Here were the six contestants:

Bistro St. Michaels: This entry had the creamy broth, with right the right amount of herbs and spices. The execution of the chowder was polished, but it was more like a bisque than a chowder. I thought that the oysters were cut up too much, with some of them to have been almost minced. In my mind, a good oyster stew has oysters that should be a decent size. 

Ruse at Wildset: This entry presented more of what one would expect of a chowder. There were clams, but there were also potatoes, peppers and other ingredients in the mix. And, there were a lot of ingredients. Perhaps too many, as the oysters seemed to get a little lost in the overall presentation. But, it did have a very good smoky note from the bacon.

Theo's Steakhouse: This entry followed in the footsteps of Ruse at Wildset, presenting a more traditional chowder. Theo's Steakhouse also got the proportions a little better, with more oyster and less peppers, potatoes, and onions. I also liked the broth a little more with this entry than the Ruse at Wildset, as I felt that there was more of an herbal presence.

Gourmet by the Bay: This entry took on a slightly darker color, and I could not quite figure out the reason. It did not have the smoky elements of the Ruse at Wildset, although I did get some of that bacon flavor in this one. The rest of the flavor profile was a little different and it took some effort to try to figure it out. This entry did its part to set itself apart from the rest.

Oaks Waterfront Inn: This entry had the most oysters in it; and, the most whole oysters. That immediately elevated it above the ones that I had tried up to that point. While I could get the sense of other ingredients, they definitely took the back seat to the oyster. This stew also had the right balance of herbs and pepper, making it one of the more rounded entries.

Hambleton House Catering: The final entry really tried to set itself apart. Like the very first one, this chowder took on a more bisque like texture and approach. The difference between this entry and the first one was that the oysters were blended into the chowder (which is more of a bisque approach). This entry also had a different flavor profile, one that suggested curry rather than smoke.

To be sure, I had my favorites. My vote was for the Oaks Waterfront Inn, which I believe created the best overall oyster stew. My beautiful Angel chose Gourmet by the Bay, while my little bean voted for Ruse at Wildset. My little big guy decided not to participate. Our voting was all over the map.

But, we live in a democracy, and the overall vote produced a different winner than the one I chose. The overall winner was Bistro St. Michaels. (I should note that Bistro St. Michaels also won the oyster stew competition the first year that we attended the Oysterfest.) Oaks Waterfront Inn came in second and Gourmet by the Bay came in third. 

With every year that we attend the Oysterfest and every year that we judge, there is an after effect. It is the motivation on my part to make my own oyster stew. Two of those stews -- one motivated by our time at the Oysterfest in 2018 and another inspired by our time there in 2019 -- have made it as posts on my blog. 

I think it may be time to come up with another oyster stew recipe. Only time will tell and only if I can find the time. Until then ...

PEACE. 

Nuoc Cham Marinated Steak

One thing has become increasingly clear as I cook my way around the world: namely, that I have become a huge fan of fish sauce and recipes that incorporate that ingredient into a dish.  My growing interest in this sauce made from fermented fish and salt has led me to prepare a variety of dishes from southeast Asia. 

Many of those dishes incorporate a Vietnamese sauce known as nuoc cham. It is typically served as a condiment, served alongside something else. For example, I prepared and served it as a dipping sauce for raw oysters.  I also prepared nuoc cham as an unconventional sauce for a New Year's Eve fondue.

These efforts have elevated nuoc cham, increasing its presence in my mind. For this reason, when I happened to stumble across a recipe for Nuoc Cham Marinated Steak, I immediately added it to my "to-do" list. Unlike many recipes on my to-do list, which languish for long periods of time before I get around to making them, this recipe was made within just a few days.

There are three regional variations of nuoc cham - northern, central and southern. The northern Vietnamese version uses a broth made from pork and shrimp. The central Vietnamese version uses recipes that incorporate the same amounts of fish sauce, lime juice and sugar, but also with fresh chiles. The southern version uses palm sugar and coconut water.

This particular recipe seemingly draws from the central Vietnamese variation, because of the balance of ingredients and the incorporation of chiles. If the Thai chiles are too spicy for you, you can substitute a less spicy chile, such as a serrano chile or jalapeno chile. 

NUOC CHAM MARINATED STEAK

Recipe from Food & Wine

Serves 4

Ingredients:

• 1/2 cup fish sauce
• 3 tablespoons granulated sugar
• 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice (from 2 limes)
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce
• 1.5 teaspoons grated garlic (from 4 medium garlic cloves
• 3 Thai chiles, halved
• 1.5 pound beef strip steak (about 1.5 inches thick)
• 1.5 tablespoons canola oil
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• Lime wedges for serving

Directions:

1. Prepare the marinade. Whisk together the fish sauce, sugar, lime juice, soy sauce, garlic and chiles in a small bowl until sugar dissolves. Prick steak all over with a fork and place in a ziploc plastic freezer bag. Pour nuoc cham all over steak in bag. Seal bag and shake to ensure that steak is evenly coated. Chill for 4 hours. 

2. Prepare the steak. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Remove the steak from the refrigerator and let come to room temperature for 30 to 45 minutes. Heat oil in large cast iron skillet over medium high heat. Remove steak from marinade; discard marinade. Pat steak dry with a paper towel and sprinkle both sides with salt. 

3. Cook the steak. Add the steak to the skillet and cook, undisturbed, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer skillet to preheated oven and bake until a thermometer inserted in the thickest steak registers 125 degrees Fahrenheit, 12 to 15 minutes, turning half way through. 

4. Finish the dish. Transfer steak to cutting board and let rest for 10 minutes. Cut steak against the grain into thin slices and serve with lime wedges. 

PEACE.

Chicken Savoy

Recently, I have joked with friends and colleagues that my personal cooking blog, Chef Bolek, has become the means through which I have applied my undergraduate degree in International Relations. My posts have explored a range of cuisines and dishes across the globe. At the same time, it seems that posts about American cuisine have become few and far between. 

This post brings me back to the United States, and, in particular, to the State of New Jersey. The town of Bellville, New Jersey to be exact. That is where one can find the Belmont Tavern, an Italian restaurant that became the home of a truly American dish ... Stretch's Chicken Savoy.

The story takes us back to 1967, when the owners of the tavern brought in Charles "Stretch" Verdicchio to work as the cook. Stretch introduced the owners and the customers to a dish consisting of a whole chicken broken down into its constituent parts, rubbed with a mixture of herbs and cheese, and baked in a very hot oven. The chicken is finished with a splash of red wine vinegar that, when cooked down, becomes a sauce that can be spooned over the finished dish. The dish became a regional hit in northern New Jersey.

The actual recipe for Chicken Savoy is a closely guarded secret within the Belmont Tavern, much like the recipe for Oysters Rockefeller is locked away at Antoine's in New Orleans. Yet, there are commonalities among the versions that have emerged at local Italian restaurants throughout northern New Jersey. All involve the use of whole chickens, broken down into their constituent parts. All involve the use of a mixture consisting of dried herbs (dried oregano and dried thyme), finely grated cheese (pecorino), garlic and olive oil. And, all of the recipes involve the use of red wine vinegar, which provides a tangy aroma and taste to the dish. 

This dish is very simple to make. The hardest part (to the extent any part of this recipe can be deemed difficult) is the breaking down the whole chicken. Yet, one could make this recipe buying a package of chicken breasts and chicken thighs, which saves time. That results in a recipe that could easily become a weekday meal for a very busy family with little time to do prep work. 

CHICKEN SAVOY

Recipe from Saveur

Serves 4

Ingredients:

• 1 3-4 pound chicken, cut into 8 pieces
• 1/3 cup finely grated pecorino
• 1/4 cup olive oil divided
• 1 tablespoon dried oregano
• 1 teaspoon dried thyme
• 4 garlic cloves
• 1 cup red wine vinegar
• Kosher salt
• Freshly ground black pepper

Directions:

1. Prepare the chicken. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 500 degrees Fahrenheit. Season the chicken generously with salt and set aside. 

2. Prepare the paste. In a small food processor, or a mortar and pestle, blend the pecorino, 3 tablespoons of the oil, the oregano, thyme, and garlic to a paste. 

3.  Begin cooking the chicken. To a large skillet over medium-high heat, add the remaining tablespoon of oil. Add the chicken, skin-side down and cook until browned on one side, about 6 to 8 minutes. Turn the chicken, then use a spoon to smear the skin with the paste. Bake until brown and cooked through, about 20 to 25 minutes. 

4.   Finish the dish. To the hot pan, add the vinegar and spoon it over the chicken until reduced slightly, about 1 minute. Serve the chicken from the skillet or transfer to a platter. 

PEACE.

St. Helena Fish Cakes

If you find yourself in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean in the southern hemisphere, you may find yourself very far away and very close at the same time. You will most likely be far away from any significant land mass, as both South American and Africa are separated by thousands of miles of ocean. But, you may be very close to the island of St. Helena (and that is a big maybe).

St. Helena sits in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean in the Southern Hemisphere. It is over 1,200 miles from the African coast (where one would be standing in Namibia or Angola) and 2,500 miles from the South American coast (where one would be standing in Brazil). The island is figuratively and literally in the middle of nowhere. 

That isolation proved helpful when it came to banishing a certain Le Petit Caporal (i.e., Napoleon) in 1815 after he escaped his first imprisonment on the island of Elba. But, there have been people living on that ten mile by five mile long island since the late seventeenth century. Recent statistics place the number of people calling the island their home at over 4,400.  

Saints (source: St. Helena Info)

The people of St. Helena -- who refer to themselves as "Saints" -- descended from Europeans, who were mostly planters, government workers and ex-soldiers. Given St. Helena was part of the British empire, there are also people of Chinese ancestry, whose family members came to the island as workers, or of other Asian or African ancestry, whose family members were forcibly brought to the island as slaves. Together, the Saints have developed their own identity, culture and cuisine.

The cornerstone of Saint cuisine is the Fish Cake. Given St. Helena is an island surrounded by thousands of miles of ocean, one could expect that fish would have a prominent role in both the cuisine. The most prevalent fish in the Saint diet may well be yellowfin tuna. Saint cooks take fresh tuna, shred it down with a knife, and then prepare the fish cakes with mashed potatoes, onions, parsley, thyme and bacon. But, there is one ingredient that is just as important to the fish cake as the fish ... the chile. A Saint Fish Cake must have bite (that is, in the Saint vernacular, it must be spicy). Most recipes call for a "chile" or "chilli," but, depending upon the bite you are looking for, I would go with a jalapeno pepper (for less of a bite) or a serrano pepper (for more of a bite). If a serrano is not enough, there is alway the Scotch Bonnet or Habanero pepper.

In the end, the fish cake was very tasty, but I have to work on my preparation skills with this dish. I am used to making crabcakes, whose starch usually involves crackers. The use of mashed potato was part of the binding agent was new for me. I had some difficulty keeping the fish cakes together during the cooking process, but that can be improved when I make this dish again. 

Until then, I can just sit back and think about a short banished emperor sitting at a table on an island in the middle of nowhere. According to historical records, it took a while for Napoleon to get used to his new surroundings. Records published in 1824, which was after Napoleon's death in 1821, recounted that "fresh beef was so precious as to have occasioned restrictions upon its consumption." While fresh beef may have been hard to come by, one could picture Napoleon staring down at a table of full of fish cakes. And, thanks to artificial intelligence, we can now see a relatively close depiction of that fictional moment for ourselves. 

If you are as interested about St. Helena's island as I am, check out St. Helena Island Info at this website. 

ST. HELENA FISH CAKES

Recipe from Aberdeen News

Serves 4

Ingredients:

• 1/2 pound Russet potatoes, peeled, quartered
• 1/2 pound fresh tuna
• Mild oil, such as canola
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• 1 small clove of garlic, finely chopped
• 1 slice bacon, diced
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley
• 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme
• 1 fresh serrano chile, finely chopped
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon paprika
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne
• 1 egg, lightly beaten
• 1 lemon, zested.

Directions:

1. Boil the potato. Settle potato chunks in a large pot of salted water. Bring to a boil; cook until tender (poke one with a skewer, it should be easy work), about 18 minutes. Press potatoes through a ricer into a large bowl or smash with a potato smasher. Let cool. 

2. Prepare the tuna.  Use a sharp, heavy knife to finely chop the tuna (a little coarser than ground beef.). Use a fork to gently mix into the cooled potato. 

3. Saute remaining ingredients (except egg and lemon zest). Pour 1 tablespoon of oil into a large skillet. Heat over medium. Scrape in onion, garlic, bacon, parsley, thyme, chile and spices. Cook, stirring, until everything looks brown and tasty, about 8 minutes. Scrape ono a plate to cool. Wipe out skillet. 

4. Prepare the fish cakes. Scrape the cooled onion mix onto the fish and potatoes. Pour in egg, scatter on zest. Mix gently. Shape 8 pucks about 3/4 inch thick and 2 1/2 inches in diameter. Fry pucks until brown, about 2 to 3 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels.

PEACE.