China Poblano

Restaurant reviews are by far the rarest form of post on this blog. Since 2011, I have only done five (5) restaurant reviews. Each of those restaurants had something that stood out, and, usually it was everything about the meal.  The last review I did was back in 2021, which was for the restaurant Owamni, owned and led by Chef Sean Sherman, whose goal was to educate people about Native American foodways.

Another chef with a desire to educate people is Jose Andres. I have been to many of his restaurants: China Chilcano, Jaleo, Oyamel, Spanish Diner, and Zatinya. While all of them are amazing, one truly stands out for me. It is China Poblano. 

I often refer to China Poblano as my happy place. It is located in Las Vegas, Nevada, where I often go for work and almost never for pleasure. Every time I have to go to Las Vegas for work, I inevitably sit at one of the two bars in this particular restaurant, and have a meal that almost always is the culinary highlight of the trip, and, sometimes, the best part of the trip. 

The reason is simple: it's the food. China Poblano represents a fusion of sorts, bringing together Chinese food and Mexican food. The restaurant has two kitchens, one focuses on each cuisine. It also has two bars, where people can watch experts prepare fresh tortillas for various Mexican dishes or fresh noodles for the Chinese dishes.  Some of the dishes are traditional ones from each cuisine. Others are often an interpretation or creative take on a dish. I can still remember taking colleagues to China Poblano in 2011, where I ordered El Silencio and they watched as I ate a taco stuffed with braised duck tongues. (Needless to say, they were as grossed out as those who have watched me eat on multiple occasions the Chapulines taco at Oyamel.)

A view of the bars, from the Mexican one to the Chinese one. (Source: TripAdvisor)

I have made my way through the menu over the years. Every time I eat at China Poblano, I say to myself that I need to do a restaurant review. Every time it never happens, usually due to work or other pressing matters of life. 

This time, it is different. I decided to order two dishes from each side of the menu. Those four dishes would be the basis for this review. 

 

The first dish is a solitary carnitas taco. This single taco embraces five ingredients within a corn tortilla -- braised pork, onions, cilantro, chicharron, and salsa verde cruda. Yet, every bite brings together the rich, fattiness of the braised pork, the crispness of the chicharron, the freshness of the cilantro and salsa. This little taco represents everything that is good about pork. It is one of my favorite tacos on the menu, which usually makes it the first thing I order on the menu.

The second course is another solitary taco, which is a very close second to the carnitas taco. This tack presents itself in a completely different corn tortilla. Perhaps it should be my favorite, as it takes only four ingredients to get perfection here: grilled octopus, avocado, roast corn salsa macha and radish. I have always been a fan of grilled octopus, but the chewy texture of the octopus combined with the crisp radish and soft avocado make this taco shine. 

The last two dishes move to the Chinese kitchen. The first is a noodle bowl called Road to Xi-an.  The name derives its inspiration from the spice road, which ran through this city. Xi-An, which sits in Shaanxi province is also known for its noodle dishes. This particular dish combines shredded lamb, cumin, star anise, and beach mushrooms. The vinegar used with the mushrooms, along with the cumin and the lamb, make this a stellar dish. 

The final dish is Dan Dan Mian, which is Jose Andres' nod to a Sichuan street food. He uses hand cut wheat noodles, which are served with a spicy sauce (whose piquancy comes from pequin chiles) and roasted peanuts. Although from Sichuan, this dish was slightly less spicy than the Road to Xi-an. Nevertheless, the combination of the flavors in the sauce with the roasted peanuts was near perfection.  It was the perfect way to end the meal. 

I had actually planned on having a fifth dish, but I was so full from these four dishes that I had to pass. If you happen to get to China Poblano and have a bigger appetite than me, I would also suggest you try the Kao Lao Lao, which is a dish consisting of individually rolled oat noodles arranged in a honeycomb shape, steamed and served with a delicious sauce. 

My present travel plans do not have me returning to Las Vegas anytime soon. If that should change, then you will know where to find me. Until then ...

PEACE.

Owamni by the Sioux Chef

I traveled a lot for business before the coronavirus pandemic. In anticipation of every trip, I researched the local food scene, to find interesting restaurants, brewpubs or wine bars.  The time and effort served a purpose: a good meal is one way in which I could relax after a stressful day from work. 

Most of the restaurants, as well as most of the meals, were good.  Some were even great. However, every once in a while, I found a restaurant -- and a meal -- that defies being reduced to words. In those very rare instances, I accept the challenge and try to write a review of the restaurant and the meal for this blog. 

Needless to say, such experiences are quite rare.  There are only four restaurant reviews on this blog. The last one that I wrote was back in 2012. 

Nine years later, I felt compelled to write a review about both a restaurant and a meal. The restaurant is Owmani. The meal is definitely the one of the best that I have had in a restaurant in years.

The entire experience was part happenstance, part luck. I was getting ready for my first business trip since the start of the pandemic. The destination was also a first for me: Minneapolis, Minnesota. 

As I was searching for restaurants in downtown Minneapolis, I was reminded of a cookbook that my parents bought me for my birthday. It is the James Beard award winning cookbook, The Sioux Chef's Indigenous Kitchen. The book was written by chef Sean Sherman, an Oglala Lakota, who is dedicated to revitalizing Native American Cuisine, especially indigenous cuisine in Minnesota and the upper Midwest. I have been following Chef Sherman's work because the elements of indigenous food systems -- such as the ingredients, cooking processes, and, of course, the dishes -- have always interested me. 

I knew that Chef Sherman was opening a restaurant in downtown Minneapolis. I did a search for the restaurant, Owamni, and I found that it was not only open, but it was just blocks from my hotel.  I sought out a reservation and got waitlisted. It was short notice, I wasn't sure that I would get a table.  To my surprise (and, luck), I got a table. 

Before I get to the dishes, a few things about Chef Sherman's vision and the restaurant. First, Owmni's menu is designed around indigenous ingredients, such as game, fish, birds and wild plants. It also prioritizes indigenous food producers when it comes to obtaining ingredients. Second, the menu reflects a decolonization with respect to the food. In other words, ingredients that have been introduced into the cuisine of North America -- such as dairy, wheat flour, cane sugar, beef, chicken and pork -- are studiously avoided.  This approach intrigued me, because it provides an opportunity to experience a meal when Minneapolis was Bdeóta Othúŋwe (as translated in Dakhóta) or Gakaabikaang (as translated in Anishinaabe), with some modern culinary twists.  It also surprised me at the range of dishes that one could present even when excluding ingredients such as wheat flour, cane sugar, beef and pork.

Finally, the restaurant operates on a "sustainable basis."  This mission statement is particularly importan to me, because I have dedicated my career to representing working people.  Owamni pays a living wage, provides health insurance to employees who work more than 30 hours per week.  These wages and benefits extend to everyone, from the dishwashers to the waitresses. The restaurant charges a service fee to help fund these benefits.  That fee is not a problem for me. 

Now, to the food ...

APPETIZERS (WAMAKHASKAN)

As I reviewed the menu, I could have ordered all of the dishes.  However, I had neither the time nor the budget to do so.  I did have the opportunity to try two appetizers.  

The first appetizer was the Smoked Red Cliff Lake Trout and White Bean Spread. This dish featured freshly prepared tostadas, which were served with pureed tepary beans topped with smoked lake trout and microgreens.  The last element of the dish is wojape, a sauce made from berries that typically accompanies meat, game or is used as a dressing.

The fish was smoked perfectly, the tepary beans were pureed to a consistency that worked well for the dish.  Break off a piece of the crispy tostada, top with with a little bit of that puree and a bit of the salmon.  The bite was almost perfect. Drizzle a little bit of the wojape over the beans and the fish and the result was perfect. The combination of earthy elements from the smoked fish and the pureed beans, along with the slightly sweet taste of the wojape, it is a delicious start to a dinner. (As an aside, I have already started paging through the The Sioux Chef's Indigenous Kitchen  to find the recipes or similar recipes so that I can make this dish and the others at home.)  

The second appetizer was indigenous game sausage, served with root vegetables and watercress puree. This appetizer was the one that I was most anxious to try.  The menu was coy about what game is used to make the sausage. As noted above, there were dishes of bison, duck, rabbit and turkey on the menu, all of which could be used to make sausage. I initially found myself trying to figure out what was in the sausage, but, I relented because the sausage tasted so good. 

The watercress puree provided a deep green base upon which the sausage rested. Watercress usually has a peppery taste, which makes it (in my opinion) an element that complements the sausage. The root vegetables also worked well, like a small salad whose crunch provided another layer of texture and taste to the dish.  

MAIN COURSES  (HTAWOPATI)

I also had the opportunity to try two of the main courses. Both of which exceeded the appetizers.

The first dish was the fish of the day, which was from Lake Superior. I thought the waitress said the fish was lake trout, but the menu online says it is walleye.  In any event, a nice-sized portion of the fish was perched, with its crispy skin greeting the guests, upon a small mound of wild rice. The fish was garnished with crispy root vegetables. A vibrant, red plum sauce surrounded these components. 

The dish was executed perfectly.  The fish flaked easily with a fork, providing bite-sized pieces of the relatively mild fish. The root vegetables and wild rice provided an earthy contrast and texture to the fish. 

As with the smoked fish and white bean puree appetizer, I thought that the sauce helped to bring this dish together. The plum sauce was (in my humble opinion) somewhat sweeter than the wojape. This sweetness worked well, not only with the fish, but also with the wild rice. (As another aside, I have never been a big fan of wild rice. I have always preferred Basmati rice, primarily due to my love of Indian cuisine. However, this dish has me rethinking my views of wild rice, especially if it could be served with this plum sauce or wojape.)  

The final dish -- Bison hangar steak served with hazelnut crusted carrot, sunchoke puree and a mustard green sauce -- was the best dish of the night.  The bison  was cooked perfectly. The char on the outside and the medium-rare inside ensured that every bit was juicy and delicious. Quite frankly, this is the best bison dish that I have ever been served in a restaurant.  

As much as the bison speaks to the carnivore in me, the other components of the dish played their part.  The hazelnut crusted carrots provided a colorful crunch that was perfect.  The texture of the sunchoke puree gave faint hints of a potato like texture, but the taste of the puree played a perfect complementary role with the bison.  The mustard green sauce appeared to play the role of a peppery chimichurri, which -- as anyone who has had chimichurri knows -- works extremely well with grilled meats. (Just look to Argentinian and Uruguayan cuisine). 

As it should  be evident by now, my meal at Owamni was one of the best that I have had in a restaurant in a long time. If I lived in Minneapolis, I would be back on a regular basis to try other dishes on the menu. Dishes such as Bison Tartare, the nixtamalized corn tacos (particularly the pulled duck), preserved duck, and the stuffed green chile. If you happen to find yourself in Minneapolis, you should definitely check out this restaurant. It is well worth the experience. 

Until I make my way back to Bdeóta Othúŋwe or Gakaabikaang, I will have to settle with my best efforts to cook dishes from Chef Sherman's cookbook.  Until then,  

ENJOY!

A Big Dinner in Little Washington

It seems every year that I outdo myself.  I try to plan an amazing culinary experiences for my beautiful Angel and myself.  The first such experience was a poolside dinner at Bartollota, an amazing seafood restaurant at the Wynn in Las Vegas.  That was an amazing dinner, the highlight of which was the whole branzino that had been flown in from Italy within the past day.  I did not think that I could arrange a better experience. A couple of years later, I arranged for a dinner at Picasso, a restaurant in the Bellagio, another casino in Las Vegas.  We had a table right next to the famous dancing fountains, which provided the entertainment as we enjoyed an amazing, multi-course meal.  I did not think that I could arrange for an experience that could top that meal.  But I did.

Clare asked me to make arrangements for our babymoon, a weekend where we could just enjoy ourselves in advance of the birth of our baby boy.  Although little Baby Bolek is not due until April, I have been working on making our little baby a gourmand, by preparing tasty dishes for Clare and by going out for great dinners.  I also wanted to have a truly special weekend.  So, what did I do?  I booked us a weekend at the Inn at Little Washington.  And, of course, I made reservations for a meal at the restaurant.

THE CHEF'S INITIAL OFFERINGS

The initial offering from the Chef was a duo of pork belly and a play on chips and dip.  The pork belly was served with an apple jelly.  The pork belly was cooked perfectly, with a crunchy outside that gave way to tender sweet meat.  The play on chips and dip was a homemade potato chip "stuffed" with a chive sour cream and topped with some caviar.  It was an interesting play on the traditional chips and dip and, as expected, very delicious.

The next offering from the Chef was a White Bean Soup with Virginia ham.  It was served with a shooter and was accompanied by a chive "puff."  (Of course, it was not described to us that way.)  The soup was amazing.  I was particularly taken by the texture of the white bean soup, which was infused with the smokey and sweet taste of the ham. 

THE FIRST COURSE

My First Course: The Lemon-Line Lobster Largesse: Chilled Maine Lobster with Caramelized Endive and Citrus-Sake Gelée.  Three words in this dish initially caught my attention ... "Chilled Maine Lobster."  Clare and I spent a week last June in Bar Harbor, Maine.  During our vacation, we had the opportunity to take a trip aboard a working lobster boat.  That experience provided me with a new appreciation of the work that goes into catching lobsters.  Six months later, Chef O'Connell provided me with a new appreciation of how one could enjoy that very special ingredient.  The lobster was perfectly cooked, with each bite bursting with sweetness.  This dish brought back memories of every lobster dish that I enjoyed during my stay in Bar Harbor.  As I finished the dish, three other words helped to create new memories ... "citrus-sake gelée." The flavors of the gelée or jelly complemented the lobster perfectly. 

Clare's First Course: Beet Trinity: Three Iterations of the Garden's Beet Harvest with Caromont Farm Chevre, Beet Sorbet and Orange Essence.  As we sat at our table, Clare admitted, "I don't like beets."  This dish, however, completely changed her view of the much-maligned root vegetable.  For me, the most interesting aspect of this dish is the beet sorbet.  The combination of beet and sorbet is, quite frankly, genius.  The pairing of the beet's with the sweetness of a sorbet is probably the best way to win over even the most skeptical of eaters.

THE SECOND COURSE

My Second Course: A Marriage of Hot and Cold Foie Gras with Sauternes Gelée and Plum Preserves.  I do not ordinarily eat foie gras, because I am conscious of the debate behind the practice of gavage, i.e., force feeding the geese and ducks to increase the size of their livers.  However, as some chefs have pointed out, the conditions under which these geese and ducks are raised are far better than the conditions of cows, pigs and chickens on farms.  (By the way, that is why I do my best to buy meat from sources where the animals are free to roam and are fed properly.)  In any event, I do order foie gras on special occasions. I have to say that this particular "marriage" represents probably the best preparation of foie gras that I have ever experienced.  The cold foie gras was very delicious.  The pairing of the foie gras with the gelée and preserves were very interesting and delicious.   The hot foie gras was also very delicious, even decadent.  I purposely took my time to eat the hot foie gras, so that I could enjoy the dish for as long as possible. 

Clare's Second Course: Aged Gouda Macaroni and Virginia Ham.  You know a dish is going to be very good when the first words out of the diner's mouth are, "I don't want to eat it because it looks so beautiful."  Indeed, Clare took a good look at this dish; and, why not, it is a culinary work of art.  The components -- cheese, macaroni, ham, frisee, chives and every other ingredient -- are perfectly placed and cooked.  I could see my wife's dilemma, although it was short lived.  She enjoyed every bit of this course.

THE THIRD COURSE

My Third Course: Curry Dusted Veal Sweetbreads with Gala Apples, Virginia Country Ham and Pappardelle Pasta.  This dish shall remain nameless in Clare's presence, because she does not like sweetbreads.  Most people do not eat this ingredient.  However, like foie gras, I order this dish on special occasions.  And, like the marriage of hot and cold foie gras, I have to say that it is the best preparation of veal sweetbreads that I have ever had.  I mean the BEST preparation of sweetbreads.  The dusting of curry spice on the outside of the sweetbreads provided a nice flavor to the dish and made its way into every bite of the dish.  The reason why I say that this is the best preparation of the dish is because it was cooked perfectly.  The outside was seared and crisp, while the inside was juicy and full of flavor.  One last note, the pairing of the apple puree with the sweetbreads was very good.  I would not have thought of apples and sweetbreads going together, but it worked.  The apples provided a sweetness, which completed the spice from the curry and emphasized the sweetness of the sweetbreads.   As they say, it was -- hands down -- one of the best dishes that I have enjoyed in 2012, and, perhaps, since I started this blog.

Clare's Third Course: Tortelli of Spinach with Virginia Oyster Mushrooms and Bambino Eggplant Puree.  Clare continued to choose the artistic dishes.  Every component in this dish was perfectly placed.  The chefs did such a great job, because this dish catches your attention and holds onto it.  Apart from appearance, the tortelli were perfectly shaped and cooked.  The spinach filling, paired with the mushrooms and eggplant created a triumvirate of ingredients that worked perfectly together.

THE FINAL COURSE

My Final Course: Chateau Latour Blanche, Sauternes, France (2006).  For those who know me, they know I love my desserts in liquid form.  In this case, I chose a very interesting and tasty drink in the form of of a Sauternes. This particular drink had a double personality ... one one hand, there was a bitterness, such as the bitterness from a Granny Smith apple, but, on the other hand, there was a sweetness that comes from the sugar in the grapes.  In the end, this may not have been the best pairing for a dessert, but it is definitely a good sipping digestive.  

Clare's Final Course: Grandmother's Warm Local Gala Apple Tart with Buttermilk Ice Cream.  Clare's choice for the dessert provided the kitchen with an opportunity to express their congratulations and best wishes for the reason why we were dining at the Inn at Little Washington ... Baby Bolek.  And, I cannot express how grateful we were for the kitchen's sentiments. We were also very grateful for the opportunity to taste an amazing dessert (this coming from someone who is not very interested in desserts).  The tart was perfectly baked.  Each bite provided a taste of some perfectly baked pastry, along with the most delicious apples that I have tasted in some time.  This dessert was so good that I almost ate the best wishes and congratulations.  (I was hoping that it was fond or something else that was edible.)  I did not do that because, by the time we finished the tart, I was too full to continue eating.

 

After having enjoyed one of the best meals of our lives, we had the additional honor of a brief tour of the kitchen at the Little Inn of Washington.  As we walked into the kitchen, we were greeted by the chef, Patrick O'Connell.  Chef O'Connell welcomed us into the kitchen and thanked us for dining at the Inn.  We were then given a brief tour of the kitchen, which was designed by Chef O'Connell.  Both Clare and I were particularly impressed with the center island, which includes the American-made Vulcan stoves and refrigerated compartments. 

In the end, I have to admit that the weekend was truly a life-changing event when it comes to my cooking and this blog.  Chef O'Connell's focus on technique led me to reflect upon how I have approached my own cooking.  I realized that I need to pay much more attention to my techniques if I want to become a better cook, let alone a better chef.  I hope that I am able to achieve this goal. Only time will tell ...

ENJOY!

A Work of Art at Picasso

Every time that both my beautiful Angel and I are in Las Vegas, I make a reservation at one of the fine dining restaurants.  One of the trends in Las Vegas is for famous chefs to open restaurants in the casino/resorts.  All of the popular chefs -- Mario Batali, Emeril, Wolfgang Puck, Michael Mina, Thomas Keller, Hubert Keller and others -- have opened restaurants all along the Strip, from Mandalay Bay to the Wynn.  The last time we dined in Las Vegas, we dined at Bartolotta, which was one of the best meals that we had ever had in Las Vegas.

Recently, while in Las Vegas, Clare suggested that we dine at Picasso, which is a fine dining restaurant in the Bellagio.  Picasso has two Michelin stars, and a five diamond rating from the AAA.  The executive chef is Julian Serrano.  Although born in Spain, Chef Serrano trained in France, which is reflected in his dishes. At Picasso, Serrano offers two menus, a Prix Fixe Menu and a Degustation Menu.  Both Clare and I chose the Prix Fixe Menu, with the wine pairings by a sommelier.  And, as we sat outside with a front row seat to the dancing fountains of the Bellagio, we proceeded to have what was the best meal that we have ever had in Las Vegas.

THE AMUSE BOUCHE

Potato Soup with Smoked Salmon and Caviar.  The first dish was actually not even on the menu.  It was an amuse bouche of cold potato soup with sliced almonds and a "lollipop" of smoked salmon, quail egg and caviar.  An "amuse bouche" is supposed to awaken the taste buds in preparation for the meal to come.  This little dish did the trick.  The potato soup was incredible, smooth and silky, while the salmon, egg and caviar produced a wide range of tastes when eaten. 

THE FIRST COURSE

Poached Oysters Garnished with Oestra Caviar and Sauce Vermouth. As a big fan of oysters, this dish really interested me.  The oysters were expertly shucked, poached and then placed in a small amount of a vermouth sauce.  They were topped with a small amount of oestra caviar.  This type of caviar consists of the eggs from sturgeon and can be some of the most expensive or prized caviar in the world.  The sommelier paired this dish with a white wine from the Loire valley, which was a perfect complement to the flavors of the dish.  

THE SECOND COURSE

Foie Gras Torchon with Pineapple and Port Reduction. For the second course,I ordered the foie gras torchon with pineapple and port reduction.  Torchon is a cooking method for foie gras where the foie gras is wrapped in a towel and poached.  The foie gras was exquisite, with each bite melting like butter. The foie gras was served with a micro green salad, a piece of toasted bread and the pineapple, which had a sugar glaze.  The sommelier paired a late harvest wine from the Veneto region of Italy with this course. 

THE THIRD COURSE

Sauteed Medallions of Fallow Deer with Caramelized Apple and Zinfandel Sauce. The third course consisted of two medallions of perfectly cooked fallow deer.  As a point of information, fallow deer is a ruminant animal, with a stronger flavor than other species of venison.  Fallow deer is the venison traditionally served in Europe.  The medallions were of a good size and sauteed to a perfect medium rare.  I am not sure what was placed on top of the medallion.  Serrano's recipe calls for a dollop of bone marrow, although the ingedient had the consistency of a well cooked mushroom stem.  In any event, the caramelized apple and green beans were a good accompaniment to the venison. The sommelier paired a Priorat, a wine from the Spanish region of the same name, with this dish.  

 

ENJOY!

A Tour of Beef at Carnevino

Restaurant reviews are far and few on this blog.  While I like to read restaurant reviews, I wanted to focus more on cooking and pairing.  However, when I dine at a truly amazing restaurant, I feel compelled to write about the experience, if only so I can remember what I had.

Recently, I had the opportunity to dine at Carnevino, which is one of a couple restaurants established by Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich in Las Vegas.  As the name suggests (if you know Italian), this restaurant is all about meat ("carne") and wine ("vino").  The dual focus of this restaurant is well balanced.  The menu contains dishes such as beef carpaccio, ravioli di stracatto (duck livers with balsamic vinegar), and a range of meat dishes, featuring the "BBL" beef.  "BBL" beef is hand selected, hormone and antibiotic free beef that is aged in a meat chamber.   The menu is well developed, and reinforced by a very large list of wines.

But, the reason why I went to Carnevino is not that menu.  There was a much smaller menu that grasped my attention ... the Beef Tasting menu.  Five courses, four of which feature beef in different preparations.  The menu had a substantial price tag of $120.00 per person.  It took a little time for me to choose this menu, but, I realized that, one only lives once and so it is important to experience everything.  This principle is particularly apt when it comes to beef.

Unfortunately, I did not take any pictures of the dishes.  I felt a little intimidated to take out my phone camera and take pictures.  Still, here are some of my notes about each course.

First Course: Wagyu Beef Crudo. The first course was an excellent introduction to the world of beef.  The preparation was basically a wagyu beef carpaccio.  Crudo is the presentation of raw protein, usually fish but it can also be beef.  The beef in this case is wagyu, which consists of several breeds of cattle that are known for the marbling of their meat and the high amount of oleaginous unsaturated fat, Omega 3 and Omega 6 acids.  The beef was sliced paper thin and laid out like petals of a flower.  In the center, there was a little "salad" of fennel topped with coriander leaves.  This was the first time that I had ever had carpaccio or crudo.  Each bite of the crudo melted in the mouth, with little chewing required.  This was an excellent introduction to this preparation of beef, making me wish that I had access to such quality beef so that I can try to make it myself.

Second Course: Beef Cheek Ravioli.   Beef ravioli is hardly novel, but the second course, beef cheek ravioli, presents a completely different and unique experience.  There were five ravioli, made with fine sheets of pasta that enveloped beef cheeks.  The meat itself was pureed or minced to almost a paste; however, whoever prepared the dish knew the point at which he or she should stop, because, despite the look of the filling, much of the texture of the meat was retained.  The beef cheek had a deep, beef flavor that was truly exceptional.  The ravioli were topped with an aged balsamic vinegar, which was all that was needed to complete the dish.

Third Course: Wet Aged Piemontese Beef.  Until recently, I had not heard of Piemontese beef.  In the Piedmont region of Italy, ranchers raise razza bovina Piemontese, a breed of cattle that is known for double-muscling.  The cattle have more muscles and less fat, yet the meat remains tender. Small slices of the beef, seared on the outside and nearly raw in the inside were stacked like Lincoln Logs over a small bed of wilted spinach and topped with a poached quail egg that was breaded and fried.  The beef was very good, and tasty, with each bite containing crystals of sea salt to help enhance the experience.

Fourth Course: Dry Aged "BBL" Beef.  The final course centered around Carnevino's BBL beef, which was prepared in a similar way as the Piemontese Beef, with small slices seared on the outside and nearly raw in the inside.  The beef was served with a small lobster and potato side that was very good.  However, the star of this course was the beef.  Like the crudo, each bite simply melted away, giving way to just the full flavor of the beef.

Fifth Course: Vanilla Semifreddo. The final course was the dessert, a Vanilla Semifreddo, which was a semi-frozen ice cream or custard with a pistachio butter and lightly sauteed strawberries.  This dish was a great way to end the dinner.

During the tasting, I had a couple glasses of Barbera, a wine produced in the Piedmont region of Italy.  The wine paired well with each of the beef preparations.

After I completed each of the tastings, I commented on Twitter that every person considering vegetarianism should be required to complete this beef tasting before he or she commits to foregoing beef.  If that were the case, there would be no vegetarians.  Each course was perfect and the overall tasting was amazing.  Although the price is a little stiff, I do not regret it.  The tasting menu is a beef-centric experience that I will never forget.  Until next time ...

ENJOY!

Amping Fresh Food @ Amp 150

Recently, when Clare and I stopped back in Cleveland for a visit with my parents, they wanted to take us to AMP 150, America's Modern Palate.  AMP 150 is a restaurant in the Cleveland Marriott Hotel on West 150th Street.  My parents had eaten there a couple of times, and, each time, they loved the food.  And, with the restaurant's concept being "farm to table," they knew that I would love this restaurant as well. They were right.  I loved this restaurant so much that I decided to do my first ever restaurant review so that I can share some of the great food that I was able to enjoy. 

The chef, Ellis Cooley, maintains an ambitious menu, which is executed to near perfection. Guests have the option of ordering dishes -- appetizers, soups and greens, small bites, large bites and gardens (sides) -- but I would strongly suggest the Chef's Choice Tasting Menu.  In D.C., most tasting menus offered by chefs in restaurants provide you with four or more courses, usually for a price of $50 per person or more.  At AMP 150, you can get a four course meal (which is actually six courses) for $35 per person and a six course meal (which I presume would be eight courses) for $45 dollars.  So, this is a great value for what will be a lot of food by the time you are finished.

The Chef's Choice Tasting Menu requires the whole table to put itself in the hands of the Chef and his sous-chefs.  They will choose the particular dishes that will be served for each course, all of which come straight off of the menu.  You can tell them that certain things are off limits, such as Clare telling them that she does not eat meat, or you can tell them that you are really interested in trying a particular dish, such as when I told them that I would really like to try the grilled sweetbreads.  Otherwise, you need not worry, because the Chef and the sous-chefs have a great sense of selecting dishes to present to a table of guests who each have their own likes and dislikes when it comes to food. 

Velvet Mushroom Soup

The First Starter Course: The first two courses start small but are big on flavor.  They are sort of amuse-bouches, intending to wake up the taste buds of the guests.  The first starter course is a small little cup of the Velvet Mushroom Soup.  The mushrooms are pureed and then cream is added to make a soup that has an incredibly earthy and creamy consistency.  The soup is garnished with a little truffle oil and chives. 

Chicken Liver Pate with Apple Jam

The Second Starter Course: After we finished the soup, the server brought out the second starter course ... crostini.  We were given two types of crostini.  First, there was the chicken liver pate with apple jam and, second, there was a mushroom pate.  I had the chicken liver pate with apple jam, which was delicious.  The combination of the chicken and apple jam worked very well together. 

Grilled Sweetbreads

The Appetizer: After finishing the crostini, the server brought out the appetizers.  Each person gets a plate and additional plates are brought for people to share.  We were served the Black Mussels, which included Chinese sausage, lemongrass, plum wine, coconut milk and ginger cilantro.  The broth was amazing and we requested some bread to dip into the broth to eat. We also had the House Made Ricotta Cavatelli, which was delicious with its brocollini, spec ham and pecorino. The third appetizer was Roasted Cauliflower, with goat cheese, pine nuts and a beet vinaigrette. Finally, we had the Grilled Sweetbreads.  The sweetbreads were served with caramelized cauliflower, sweet and sour raisins and micro-cress.  The sweet breads were grilled perfectly, with just enough char on the outsides.

The Salads and Other Dishes

The Salads: After completing the appetizers, the server brought out two salads and two other dishes for everyone to share.  The first salad was the Baby Beet Salad, which included Lake Erie Creamery Goat Cheese, mesculn greens, and a champagne vinaigrette.  The second salad we got was the Blood Orange Salad, which included arugula, parmesan and toasted almonds.  The third dish we got was the Crispy Duck Confit, with Maytag blue cheese, polenta, caramelized onions and cherries.  Finally, we also got the Edamame Falafel, which was surprisingly good and included pickled cucumber, Kalamata olives, preserved lemon and Greek yogurt. All of these salads and dishes were excellent.

The Main Courses:  We then turned our attentions to the main courses.  Although we were beginning to feel full, the dishes that were brought out were so good that, at least for me, I forgot that I already had more than two courses of food.

Roasted Free-Range Chicken

The first main course dish was the Roasted Free Range Chicken.  The chicken was roasted to perfection, with crispy skin but very juicy meat.  The chicken was served with Catalane bean ragout and rosemary, all of which served as a great base for this dish.  If one was to order only a dish, rather than the tasting menu, I would strongly recommend the chicken.

Wild Striped Bass

The second main course dish was the Wild Striped Bass.  Once again, the dish was cooked very well, with a crispy outer skin and very tender meat underneath.  The fish was served with Brussels sprouts, chestnuts, Killbuck Valley Mushrooms, and topped with a Mascarpone foam.  Personally, I am not a big fan of Brussels sprouts, however, they were delicious.  I am also not a big fan of foam, but, in this case, the foam provided an interesting, but subtle, contrast with the fish.

Marinated Flank Steak

The third main course dish was the Marinated Flank Steak.  The steak itself was delicious and I am still trying to figure out what was the marinade, because, whatever it was, it contributed a lot of flavor to the meat.  The steak was served with fingerling potato "coins," which were a great starchy complement to the meat.  The steak was also served with a red wine shallot puree, which provided a nice sauce to add to each bite of the steak.

Braised Lamb

Finally, the last main course dish was the Braised Lamb, another dish that I would recommend if you were going to skip the Chef's Choice Tasting Menu and order only one dish.  The lamb was cooked perfectly, falling with little effort from the bone.  The lamb was served with Jameson Farms Merguez sausage, parsnip and almond hummus, and lentils.  All of which were very delicious.

Sweet Potato Tower

The Desserts: The last course,was the dessert course.  By this time, it was getting a little dark in the restaurant and I could muster only one good picture of the four desserts that were served. The picture is of the Sweet Potato Tower.  This dish included brown butter ice cream, bourbon caramel, and pecan praline. Although I am not a big fan of sweets and desserts, this was very good and the perfect way to end the evening.  While I don't have pictures for all of the other desserts, and I am having a hard time reading my written notes, all I can say is that they were all interesting and delicious.

Finally, I want to take a moment to thank my parents for taking Clare and I to this great restaurant for such an amazing dinner.   AMP 150 provides the food, flavor and presentation one would expect at fancy restaurants in New York City or Washington, D.C., however, it does so in a way that opens that experience to many more people at a much more reasonable price.  I am definitely going to add this to my list of restaurants that I would return to whenever I am back in the Cleveland area.

ENJOY!

For more information about the restaurant, check out its website.