New York City Oyster Pan Roast

"No, I do not weep at the world - I am too busy sharpening my oyster knife."

- Zora Neale Hurston, Dust Tracks on a Road

 

Oysters possess an amazing power: they can enable individuals and, indeed, entire communities, to overcome the economic, political, and social structures that are built to deprive and marginalize them. This power has been demonstrated, time and time again, throughout the history of the United States. But, perhaps, the one example that can best illustrate the uplifting potential of oysters involves a dish known as the New York City Oyster Pan Roast. 

To truly understand the example, one must go in 1791. In that year, Thomas Downing was born on Chincoteague Island, Virginia, to two African-American parents. At that time and in that State, slavery reigned. And, Downings parents had been slaves. But, their slave master -- Captain John Downing, a wealthy landowner in Oak Hall -- converted to Methodism, which condemned slavery. Captain Downing freed all of his slaves, including Thomas Downing's parents. As freed slaves, his parents were able to buy a small tract of land, where they settled and where Thomas Downing was born in 1791. 

While a part of the State of Virginia, Chincoteague Island provided somewhat of a refuge from the larger world. It was a landscape where Thomas Downing could learn to handle a boat amongst the barrier islands and fish the waters. Those waters were also teeming with oyster beds, providing Thomas with the opportunity to harvest oysters, developing a keen eye for which ones were the best. 

The refuge of Chincoteague Island could not keep out history. As the War of 1812 commenced, Thomas Downing (then age 21) joined the Army and marched north to Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, where he was stationed. After the war ended, Downing stayed in Philadelphia, where he met his wife and started a family that included four sons and a daughter. Downing also got a job working in an oyster bar, and he eventually opened his own bar. During that time, Downing learned that many freed African-Americans went further north to New York City, where they worked on oyster vessels and in the oyster industry. Downing decided to take his family and follow that path.

Census records reveal that Downing made the move to New York City by 1819, where he was registered as an oysterman. But, he was his own oysterman. Downing rented a skiff and plied the waters in the New Jersey flats to harvest oysters, whether by dredging, plucking or tonging. As writer Cameron Oglesby once observed, "oystering was a profession that allowed Black men to act as their own bosses providing a new and liberating sense of self and economic independence from White industrial America." Downing was living proof of that statement at the time.  

More importantly, even though Downing was living and working in the North, where slavery had been outlawed, he still had to endure discrimination and oppression from a white society that did not view him as an equal. Downing had a plan to overcome those obstacles: he would open an oyster bar, or oyster cellar, as they were known in New York City. But not just any oyster cellar. 

Present day location of where Thomas Downing's
Oyster House once stood. (Source: Robt. Wright)

At the time, oyster cellars in New York City had a certain ill repute. Many oyster cellars were rough places, found in basements that could be located with a red balloon flying outside the door. Thomas Downing chose 5 Broad Street in lower Manhattan for his business. That location was just a short walk to the centers of economic power, such as the Merchant Exchange, Wall Street, and the Customs House. While oysters were a food enjoyed by everyone, from the poor to the rich, Downing understood that the wealthy would pay a lot more for the same food. His oyster bar would focus on bringing in that wealthier clientele. 

Thomas Downing opened his oyster cellar in 1825, which could be found in the basement of 5 Broad Street. He used the network of friends that he made while working as an oysterman to procure the oysters for his restaurant. He even used his skiff to go out onto the waters early in the morning to meet those friends and procure the best oysters before they even reached the shore, let alone the market. Downing also utilized print advertisements in newspapers to promote his restaurant, including an ad in the March, 30, 1938 edition of the New York Herald that read: 

Oysters! - Oysters!  - Oysters!

The above article may be had in their prime at Downing's. I take this method of informing my customers that I have a better stock of oysters on hand at present, than I have had this season. The lovers of the above article can (I feel assured) be fully satisfied by calling at my establishment. It is with pleasure that I say that I can give my customers a better Oyster at present, than I could at any time this eason. Strangers who have any doubts as regard to the superiority of the New York Oysters, have only to call and try, and be satisfied.

Thomas Downing, 5 Broad St.

N.B. I have a lot of Pickled Oysters on hand for importation.

Downing also used advertisements to draw in customers for other dishes he served, including "a turtle of rather a singular description." His hard work paid off: he built up a clientele of rich white people who spent a lot of money at his establishment. He was able to expand his restaurant, leasing 3 Broad Street and 7 Broad Street, creating a dining room with fine carpeting, chandeliers, mirrors and damask curtains. He was also able to utilize the steam generated underground to create a "vault" that allowed for oysters to remain fresh until they were ready to be prepared and served. His business only grew from there, with additional restaurants opening in other parts of the city, as well as a growing export business that sent oysters up and down the eastern coast, as well as overseas. By 1857, Thomas Downing had a net worth of $100,000, which would be the equivalent of $3,723,862 in today's dollars. Downing was the richest African American and indeed richer than most white Americans when slavery gripped half of the nation and exploited most African Americans. 

At his fine dining establishment, Thomas Downing served oysters in a variety of ways: scalloped oysters, oyster pie, turkey stuffed with oysters, as well as "oysters roasted on a gridiron over oak shavings."  Yet, the one dish that has survived over time, and for which Thomas Downing is best known, is his New York City Oyster Pan Roast. 

I found a recipe for a Thomas Downing-inspired New York City Oyster Pan Roast, which was adapted from a recipe developed by Albert Lukas, the supervising chef at the Sweet Home Cafe, which is located in the Smithsonian National Museum for African American History and Culture. 

The key to the recipe and, in fact, the entire dish is the sauce. The sauce is prepared with shallots, along with white wine, oyster liqueur (the liquid in the oysters when shucked), Worcestershire sauce, chili sauce, and hot sauce. The butter and heavy cream add thickness to the sauce, along with this relatively white color. The sauce serves as the base in which the oysters are "pan-roasted" only for a few minutes. The goal is to firm up the sides, making them plumper without overcooking them. The dish is completed by portioning the oysters in shallow bowls, ladling some of the sauce over them, and serving them with toasted, buttered bread, which can be used to mopping up the sauce.

NEW YORK CITY OYSTER PAN ROAST

Recipe from the Washington Post

Serves 6

Ingredients:

• 12 baguette slices, for serving 
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, 1 of them melted
• 1 medium shallot, minced
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 3 dozen freshly shucked oysters, preferably from the bay
• 1 cup oyster liqueur
• 3 teaspoons chile sauce
• 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
• 1 cup heavy cream
• Generous 1/4 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

Directions:

1. Toast the baguette slices. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Arrange the baguette slices flat on a baking sheet and brush the tops of each one using the tablespoon of melted butter. Bake on the middle rack for 12 to 16 minutes until golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool. 

2. Saute the shallots.  Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon of the butter in a large saucepan over medium low heat. Stir in the shallot and cook for 5 to 8 minutes until tender, then add the wine. Increase the heat to medium and cook for 10 to 15 minutes or until the liquid is reduced by half. Stir in the oyster liquor and cook just long enough for the mixture to begin bubbling at the edges. 

3. Continue cooking. Add the chile sauce, Worcestershire sauce and cream, stirring to blend well. Cook for two minutes, then reduce the heat to medium low; add the oysters and stir to coat. Cook for 2 minutes, being careful not to overcook them. Gently stir in the Tabasco sauce and the remaining tablespoon of butter with the saucepan until thoroughly incorporated. Remove from the heat.

4. Finish the dish. To serve, place 6 oysters into wide shallow bowls (6 bowls total) and then ladle the chile cream sauce over the oysters in each bowl. Garnish each with 2 baguette slices.

*     *     *

Post Script: While Thomas Downing found his independence, both self and economic, through serving oysters to white America, he never forgot the larger backdrop to his success. Downing offered his Broad Street restaurant as a stop on the Underground Railroad, where he hid fugitive slaves from the 1830s until the end of slavery in the 1860s. He also fought to restore the rights of African American men to vote, which had been effectively taken away when the State of New York passed a law requiring them to be residents for at least 3 years and own at least $250 worth of property. While that effort failed, Thomas Downing continued to be a staunch abolitionist and advocate for African-American rights. 

Downing also continued to be a victim of the white supremacist system and society in this country. For example, in 1840, Downing refused to exit a white's only railroad car. The railroad agents forcibly removed Downing from the car, using considerable violence. According to court records from Downing's lawsuit against the agents, they "struck him under the ear, ..., beat and kicked him, broke his hat and forced him violently from the car." The jury, which was most likely comprised of all white people, found the agents "not guilty." 

The lesson is that there are ways for marginalized and suppressed peoples to find their independence, but the only true way for them to achieve equality with the oppressors is to change a system built upon white supremacy. Since Downing's death in 1866, our country made advancements toward that change, but the problematic system remains intact; and, in recent months, the white supremacists are now reasserting themselves. Our path forward remains unwritten. We can still work toward a diverse, equitable and inclusive society, or the current system, which primarily benefits one group of people, will remain in place. Only time will tell.... 

PEACE. 

Macanese Pork Chop Bun

"The product of genius."

-- Anthony Bourdain

A fried pork chop served on a buttered Portuguese roll. One of the most favorite foods of Anthony Bourdain, which is a point that he clearly made during his visit to Macau back in 2011. It is, as Anthony says, a "distinctly Macanese creation, which will live in history." That history is said to have begun at Tai Lei Loi Kei, which is known for having created the Pork Chop Bun and been the place to eat it for more than fifty years. Although I am unable to make my way down the non-descript alley in Taipa Village to sample the original, I can try to make an adequate substitute in my own kitchen. 

To get a better understanding of what we are working with, it is best to start with the original. Tai Lei Loi Kei uses a "Brazilian pork chop," which they claim to be more tender and flavorful than other pork cuts. With some marinade and manual pounding, the end result is a pork chop that is, in their words, "flavor and tenderful." Once fried, the pork chop is placed on a marraqueta bun.

While the pork chop bun is definitely Macanese, its inspiration is unquestionably Portuguese. The island of Macau was a Portuguese colony from 1557 until 1999. Over 440 years of colonization left its mark on the island. That can be seen in the cuisine, which is perhaps one of the most cosmopolitan cuisines in the world. (I have previously posted on this subject when I prepared Galinha a Africana or African Chicken, a Macanese dish that pulls together influences from around the world.) It can also be seen in the Pork Chop Bun, which follows in the culinary footsteps of the Portuguese bifana, a pork on a bun sandwich that is said to have originated in Vendas Novas, a city southeast of Lisbon. The bifana takes on many forms across Portugal, but none of them are the Pork Chop Bun. The Chinese influences can be found in the use of Shaoxing wine, soy sauce and five-spice powder. 

The Pork Chop Bun does not have any standard toppings. One can add tomato, onions, lettuce, or sauces, but none are required to complete the experience. In some respects, just the pork chop and the bun are enough.

MACANESE PORK CHOP BUN

Recipe from Omnivore's Cookbook

Serves 4

Ingredients:

• 4 thin sliced, bone-in or boneless pork rib chops, 1 cm or 1/2 inch thick
• 2 tablespoons light soy sauce (or soy sauce)
• 2 tablespoons Shaoxing wine (or Japanese sake)
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/8 teaspoon five-spice powder
• 4 Portuguese bread rolls
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 1 tomato, sliced
• 1 onion sliced
• Lettuce leaves
• Mayonnaise, ketchup or mustard, optional

Directions:

1. Marinate the pork. Combine the soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, garlic, sugar, black pepper, salt adn five-spice powder. Place pork chops in a large Ziploc bag. Pour in marinade. Squeeze as much air out as possible and seal. Massage the bag so that both sides of the pork are coated with the marinade. Marinate in the fridge for at least 1 hour, preferably overnight. 

2. Prepare the buns. Right before cooking, slice the Portuguese bread rolls.

3. Cook the bun and pork. Heat a cast iron pan over medium heat until hot. Cook the cut sides of the Portuguese bun until browned. Pat the pork chops dry with paper towel and lightly season with sea salt. Add 2 tablespoons of oil to the same cast iron pan. Place a pork chop into the pan and press with a spatula so the chop will stay flat during cooking. When the first pork chop has cooked for about a minute, place another chop and press it with the spatula, repeating the process for each chop. Cook until both sides are evenly browned and the internal temperature reaches 145 degrees Fahrenheit.

4. Finish the dish. Place the pork chop on the bottom part of the roll. Add lettuce and tomato, if desired, place top part of roll on top. Skip the condiments and eat immediately. 

PEACE.

Pikliz

"Avan w te pikliz sonje w te chou non mache kawbosal." ("Before you were pikliz, remember you were cabbage at the Kawbosal Market")

 -- Haitian proverb

The proverb serves as a good reminder of many things. In one respect, it is a cautionary statement that one should always be humble and remember where they came from. That head of cabbage is about as simple as it can get. But, when combined with carrots, onions, chiles and vinegar, the cabbage becomes one of the most eponymous things of Haitian cuisine ... pikliz. 

Although it may be an essential part of Haitian cuisine, its origin has been lost to time. Some allude to the influence of the French colonizers, who utilized the pickling process to extend the life of fresh foods, like vegetables and meats. But, pikliz is uniquely Haitian. It combines common vegetables that could be grown in a person's yard, like cabbage and carrots, along with a ready supply of pickling agent (such as the juice of sour oranges that could be collected from trees in the neighborhood. Add in the chiles, with provide the sting, and one has a side for which there is no direct or even indirect counterpart in French cuisine. Yet, it is a condiment that can almost be found on or near tables where Haitian food is served, whether in Haiti itself or among its diaspora around the world, including the United States. 

Indeed, there is a large Haitian-American community in our country, nearly 731,000 people. That number makes Haitians and Haitian-Americans the 15th largest foreign-born community in the United States. The number of Haitians seeking refuge in the United States has increased in recent years and decades, as the turmoil and violence has increased in their home country. While a history lesson is probably best left for another post or perhaps another blog, it is safe to say that responsibility for the current circumstances in Haiti extend far beyond the Haitians themselves to western powers such as the United States and France. Haiti's freedom came at a huge economic cost in terms of financial payments to France. Haiti was forced to repay $60 million to France during the 1800s, which would be nearly $2 billion in todays terms. The loss of financial resources stunted economic development and growth in Haiti. Political development and growth was stunted by U.S. foreign policy, which always prioritized interests other than those of the Haitians. Yet, as the situation continued to spiral downward, few have come to the aid of Haiti or its people. That led many Haitians to emigrate, leading to a diaspora that extends up and down the Western Hemisphere. 

Haitians who have come to the United States have brought their culture and their cuisine, like pikliz, with them. It is not uncommon to venture to a Haitian restaurant, whether in the Little Haiti community of Miami, Florida or the one in Flatbush, New York City, and find pikliz on the table. Yet, the Haitians have contributed much more to the United States than that condiment. They have been contributing to the United States as long as there has been a United States. For example, hundreds of Haitians fought alongside Americans in Savannah during the American War for Independence.  It is also established that the Haitian's own war for independence created the circumstances that led to the Louisiana Purchase, because it led a weakened France to sell the territory to the United States.

On a more individual level, Haitians who have come to this country have helped to improve it throughout our history. After gaining his freedom from slavery, Haitian Pierre Toussaint established charitable services for refugees in nineteenth century New York City. Mary Elizabeth Lange did the same at the same time in Baltimore Maryland. In more recent years, Haitians and Haitian-Americans have been contributing to all aspects of our economy, society and government. From music (Wyclef Jean) to literature (Edwidge Dandicat), from those who work in the medical fields to the agricultural fields, Haitians have become an important part of our country. So much so that even the CATO Institute recognizes that Haitians have assimilated very well into our country. The Haitian community, and the Haitian-American community, is an American community. 

Yet, this administration has attacked this community by ending Temporary Protected Status for as many as 331,000 Haitians. That status was extended to Haitians who fled their homes due to natural disasters, violence and instability. They came to the United States, obtained residences and work permits, joining the active workforce and making a positive contribution to our economy and our society. Haitians actually participate in the workforce at a greater rate than native-born Americans. While TPS is a temporary status, it offers these Haitians an opportunity to pursue legal status through other avenues if they want to remain in this country. Those avenues will now close, and Haitians will be forced to return a country that may be an even worse condition than when they fled in the first place. 

The decision to end TPS for Haitians is based solely upon racism and not on anything else. The current U.S. government welcomes anyone with white skin color, while it deports those with brown and black skin color. Unfortunately, American immigration policy has long been built upon, and fueled by, racism. It is also keeps the United States from becoming great. As I have previously noted with respect to discrimination against the Somali community, our country's greatness comes from its diversity. That diversity brings not only a variety of peoples from different places, but a range of perspectives, knowledge and ambition that contributed to the rise of this country in the 19th and 20th centuries. If we want America to be truly great again, then we need to free ourselves from the grips of racism and intolerance. 

We need to remember that, when the United States was founded, it was a proverbial cabbage. However, over time, additional ingredients were added, like onions, carrots, peppers, scallions, bell peppers and chiles. Each of these new ingredients retained their identities alongside the cabbage, whether it is the crunch of the onions, the sweetness of the bell peppers, or the heat of the chiles. All of these ingredients were bound together with vinegar, with its sharp, tart taste. That vinegar taste represents our history, one that has been acidic and bitter, as demonstrated by slavery, segregation, Japanese internment camps, systemic and bureaucratic discrimination against a wide range of groups. Despite the acidity, and perhaps because of it, everything comes together just like pikliz. Indeed, the United States is a bowl of pikliz. We need to appreciate that, and, in the present moment, the contribution that one of those ingredients, the Haitian people living in the United States, have made to the greatness of our country. 

 

HAITIAN PIKLIZ

Recipe from Andrew Zimmern

Ingredients:

• 2 cups thinly sliced green cabbage
• 1 medium onion, halved and thinly sliced
• 1 large carrot, peeled and coarsely grated
• 1 small green, red or yellow bellow pepper, seeded and thinly sliced
• 2 scallions, thinly sliced
• 4 Scotch bonnet or habanero chiles, seeded and very thinly sliced
• 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 1 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt
• 12 black peppercorns
• 4 whole cloves 
• 1 1/2 cups cane vinegar or white vinegar
• Juice of 1 lime

Directions:

Pack vegetables and seasonings into a quart jar with a lid, add the vinegar and lime juice. Cover and refrigerate. 

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Post-Script: After the posting of this recipe, the United Startes District Court for the District of Columbia (Honorable Judge Reyes presiding) enjoined the rescission of temporary protected status for Haitians living in the United States by the Department of Homeland Security and Secretary Kristi Noem. For the moment, Haitians can continue to contribute to our country in the important ways that I discuss above.

PEACE.

Mala BBQ Wings

Mala sauce originates in China's Sichuan province,which is known for its spicy cuisine. The name, mala, means numbing and spicy; and, in the context of this sauce, it refers to the use of chiles and Sichuan peppercorns. The sauce is typically prepared by combining those ingredients, along with tobanjiang, ginger, garlic, shallots, sesame oil, and other spices.  Once completed, mala is typically served alongside other dishes, as a condiment or dipping sauce. 

This rather unique sauce inspired me, as part of my Wings Around the World project, to create a mala wing sauce. This required more research, because the typical sauce would not work very well. It is more of a brothy type of sauce, which would have a hard time holding itself to the chicken wings. Moreover, some versions use oil, which, in my humble opinion, would not provide a very pleasant wing-eating experience. I am not a big fan of wing dripping in oil, even if that oil is so spicy that I would not know it because the Sichuan peppercorns had numbed my tongue. 

I eventually found a recipe for a mala barbecue sauce, which was served in connection with pork spare ribs (mala paigu). Obviously, barbecue sauces have the great texture for wings. Most restaurants that serve wings usually offer a barbecue sauce option. Yet, unlike a standard barbecue sauce, this mala barbecue sauce balances the five elements: salty (or han in the Sichuan dialect), sweet (tian), sour (suan), hot or pungent (la) and bitter (ku). (For more about the balance of flavors, check out my Laozi Iniative, which is part of The Mindfulness Foodways.) The sweet comes from the sugar and sweet wheat paste, the bitter comes from the black vinegar, while the hot or pungent comes  and Sichuan peppercorns and the doubanjiang, and the salt comes from the hoisin sauce and a little from the Shaoxing wine. 

I prepared the sauce (a picture of it is to the right). I placed the wings in a ziploc bag, added about 2/3 of the sauce and mixed the wings to ensure that they were covered. I allowed the wings to marinate for about 15 minutes or so (you can obviously go longer if you would like, but put the wings in the refrigerator if you do so). I then broiled/roasted the wings in the oven for about 30 minutes. Once they were done, I moved the wings to the bowl and tossed them with the remaining 1/3 of the mala sauce. 

In the end, I have to say that this sauce was not as spicy or as numbing as I had expected after reading many articles about Mala sauce. That is probably a good thing for everyone else, given my love for really spicy foods means that, if I found it spicy, it would probably be too hot for everyone else. It could also be the result of the balance of flavors that I mentioned above. This allowed the sweet and bitter, to shine as much as the spicy/numbing. These wings were very good. I count them as a success in my efforts to globalize buffalo wings. Until next time ....

MALA BBQ WINGS

Recipe from The Mala Market

Serves 3-4

Ingredients:

• 12 chicken wings (drummettes and flats)
• Kosher salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 2 tablespoons doubanjiang (chile bean paste)
• 2 tablespoons tianmianjiang (sweet wheat paste)
• 2 tablespoons Chinese dark soy sauce
• 2 tablespoons Shaoxing wine
• 2 tablespoons Zhenjiang black vinegar
• 2 teaspoons hoisin sauce
• 2 teaspoons Chinese roasted sesame oil
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground Sichuan pepper
• 2 tablespoons honey

Directions:

1. Prepare the sauce. Place the chile bean paste on a cutting board and mince it with a knife to break down any whole beans. Add it to a small bowl with the sweet wheat paste, vinegar, dark soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, hoisin, sesame oil and ground Sichuan pepper and stir to combine. You could add all of the ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth as an alternative. 

2. Prepare the wings. Place the wings in a ziplock bag. Add about 2/3 of the sauce to the bag and mix so that the wings are covered with the sauce. Allow the wings to rest for about 15 minutes, if you want to marinate them longer, place them in the refrigerator for a couple of hours. 

3. Cook the chicken wings. Heat a grill on medium high heat or the broiler of an oven. Rinse the chicken wings and pat them dry. Season with salt and pepper. Oil the grates of the grill (if using) and place the chicken wings on the grill.  Grill or roast for about seven minutes and then flip the wings, grilling them for about seven minutes more. 

4. Finish the dish. Once the wings reach an internal temperature of 165 degrees Fahrenheit, remove them from the grill. Add the wings to a large bowl and pour the rest of the sauce over the wings. Toss the wings to ensure that the sauce covers all of the wings. 

PEACE.

Mshakiki

It all began on a three-island archipelago nestled in the warm waters of the Indian Ocean. That three island union is known as the Comoros. And, that is where the street food skewers known as mshakiki first originated. 

As I often do when I research about food, I try to picture myself where the food originates. This effort is often made more difficult by the fact that I have never set foot in Comoros. All I have are the pictures and descriptions that I come across whenever I research the food. It's a start, but it is never enough.  

Take, for example, the village of Vouvouni, which is located on the island of Grande Comoro. Descriptions speak of walking the streets, lined with buildings influenced by the architecture of the Muslim religion (98% practice Sunni Islam) and colonialism (the French controlled the islands prior to their independence). The sights for the eyes are complemented with aromas that tempt the nose. The aromas of street food, coming from the sizzling grills and spices used by cooks to prepare dishes that include biryani and, of course, mshakiki. 

Mshakiki is most often made with beef, but lamb is also a protein that could make its way onto those skewers. Some recipes are simply skewers of beef, marinated in a combination of spices, tomato, honey, oil and other ingredients that entice both the nose and the palate. Other recipes add to the senses with pieces of red and green bell pepper, creating colorful skewers that compliment both the aromas and tastes. One could double up on the grilled experience with a side of grilled breadfruit, bananas or cassava.

Although these skewers originated in the Comoros, their popularity has led to the spread of this street food onto mainland Africa. One can find mshakiki on the streets of cities in Kenya and Tanzania, where it may go by the name mishkaki.  There it would be served with bread or other sides. 

As I made this dish, it called for a sprinkling of cilantro at the end. I admittedly forgot to do that, because I pretty much wanted to eart them right away. I will save the cilantro for a future dish. 

MSHAKIKI

Recipe from Fork and Salt

Serves 4

Ingredients:

• 1 pound beef tenderloin, cut in to 1 inch cubes
• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon honey
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• 2 garlic cloves, finely minced
• 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, grated
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
• 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
• 1 small red bell peppper, cut into 1 inch pieces
• 1 small green bell peppper cut into 1 inch pieces
• Kosher salt, to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• Cilantro, chopped

1. Prepare the beef. In a large mixing bowl, combine the olive oil, lime juice, soy sauce, honey, tomato paste, minced garlic, grated ginger, ground cumin, smoked paprika, ground coriander, ground cinnamon, cayenne pepper, salt and black pepper. Whisk until the marinade is smooth and well blended. Add the beef cubes to the marinade, tossing to coat each piece thoroughly. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or prefrerably overnight, to allow the flavors to penetrate the meat. 

2. Prepare the skewers. Remove the marinated beef from the refrigerator and let sit at room temperature for 20 minutes before skewering. Preheat the grill or grill pan over medium-high heat. Lightly oil the grates to prevent sticking. Thread the skewers alternating with the beef, red bell pepper and green bell pepper to ensure that each skewer has a colorful combination. 

3. Grill the skewers. Place the skewers on teh grill, cook for 2-3 minutes per side, turning occasionally until the beef is nicely charred and cooked to your desired doneness. Once cooked transfer the skewers to a plate and let them rest for five minutes for the juices to redistribute. 

4. Finish the dish. Arrange the skewers on a platter and sprinkler generously with chopped fresh cilantro before serving.

PEACE.

Cool Runnings

The name comes from a 1993 movie about the Jamaican national bobsled team's first Olympic competition at the 1988 Winter Olympics, which were held in Calgary, Alberta. The beer is inspired by Caribbean stouts or tropical stouts, which first emerged with the founding and production of strong, sweet stouts by the Walters Trinidad Brewing Company in 1908. 

I have to say that I don't come across to many Caribbean-inspired beers, let alone tropical stouts. So, when I saw one on the beer menu at Market Garden, a brewery in Cleveland, Ohio, I knew that I had to try it. With a description that included notes of vanilla, nutmeg, coffee, clove and sweet spice, then I knew that I had to try it. 

The Caribbean is known for lighter beers, usually pale lagers like the eponymous Carib beer. Yet, there is a dark streak that runs through brewing across the isles, that produces some very good stouts. Such beers can be found in Aruba, Bahamas, Puerto Rico, and St. Lucia.

Jamaica also produces stouts, like Dragon Stout and Trouble Brewing's Stout. These beers, as well as other stouts up and down the Lesser Antilles, tend to feature more sweet elements, that are balanced with roasty and darker flavors.  The descriptions of the beers evoke (at least for me) the thoughts of Guinness stouts. This is an apropros reference given, for example, that Walters Trinidad Brewing Company was founded by an Irish entrepreneur, Richard Walters, who eventually sold his brewery to Carib in 1957. (Carib continues to produce the Royal Extra Stout, which is a nod to Walters Trinidad Brewing.)

The brewers describe this "Rum Cake Stout" as having "the holiday flavors of sweet molassess, home baked chocolate desserts and creamy caramel in this toasty, balanced Caribbean inspired brew." They add that there is a "harmonious medley of vanilla, nutmeg, coffee, clove and sweet spice" that grace the palate with this beer. 

I have to say that the sweet (chocolate, sweet spice) and bitter (coffee) come through on both the nose and the palate, but I was struggling a little to find the vanilla, nutmeg and clove. As it was those elements, in addition to the coffee, that sold me on buying a glass of the beer. There was a great balance between the elements, but I wish some of them came through a little more. It may have been that the beer was too cold; and, as this time of year would call for, if it warmed a little, those elements may have been more pronounced. 

I looked for six packs at the brewery, but could only find it in a holiday 12-pack, that included the Festivus and other holiday beers. It is worth a try if you can find it. 

PEACE.

The Next Step on My Culinary Journey

Around this time last year, I announced -- or, more appropriately, confirmed -- a shift in my cooking and blogging toward learning, understanding and empathy through food. That shift took me to a path created by three individuals who I admire: Anthony Bourdain, Andrew Zimmern and Jose Andres. I will still walk that path, because I believe, as all three of them did, that food has the power to unite us if we open our eyes, free our minds and listen to others. 

Yet, I feel that, as I continue to walk that path, I need to do something for myself. I have always been attuned to the need to be in the present moment, something that I picked up with my learning and practicing Buddhist meditation. It even led me to start a project, The Mindfulness Foodways, where I incorporated Buddhist principles to improve my cooking. More recently, I have become aware of the impact of food on my health. This new awareness has opened my eyes and freed my mind in a different way, which provides me with an opportunity to take the next step on my culinary journey. 

That step is a figurative one, as I remain committed to walking my present culinary path. It involves a change in mindset, one that is brought about by a trinity of different individuals: Confucius, the Buddha and Laozi (or Lao Tzu). All three of them are represented in the Ming Dynasty painting above. 

There was a story about all three philosophers being asked to taste from a barrel of vinegar. It comes from Daoist teaching, so that gives some perspective as I recount it. All three philosophers were asked to give their opinions of the vinegar. Confucious went first, and, after a few moments of contemplation, he declared the vinegar to be sour, much like he found the world to be full of degenerate people. The Buddha went next, tasting the vinegar and declaring that it was bitter, like he found the world to be full of bitter suffering. Loazi went last. He tasted the vinegar and declared it to be sweet, just as he found the world. He found that there was a balance between harmony and beauty even with the sourness and bitterness. 

The story represents, not just three opinions about vinegar, but a much bigger picture. Yet, while they may not agree, the three philosophers wrote extensively about food, from its preparation to its consumption. For instance, Confucius once wrote, "eat only until seven-tenths full; control in portions promotes longevity." The Buddha also spoke similar words to a king, "when a man is mindful, knowing moderation in the food he eats, his ailments then diminish: he ages slowly, thus guarding his life." Those words are sage advice for which I need periodic reminders, especially when I am presented with a plate of something I love to eat. These words, as well as other advice will guide me as I walk my path going forward. 

But, it is the Daoist (or Taoist) view that will reshape my mindset the most. It is recognizing the "Dao" of cooking and eating, the balance of not just flavors, but processes and ingredients. This is a path that I have wandered down somewhat in the past, with my exploration of the five tastes, which is a concept that originated with Laozi's Dao de Jing (or Tao Te Ching). Much of my learning has focused on its application in Vietnamese cuisine, in which it is referred to as Ngu Hanh or Ngu vi.  But, now, I need to embrace a balance far greater than tastes or cooking processes. I need and overall balance in what I eat. 

This leads to the next step on my culinary pathway. I am opening my eyes, freeing my mind, and listening to new approaches. For example, I am working to incorporate Ayurvedic principles into my cooking. The goal is to build on what I have learned about balance in food to introduce new ingredients, with new flavors and textures, to improve the balance in what I eat. This includes ingredients that I previously would have dismissed as "sour" or "bitter." I am going to find the beauty and harmony in it all. But that is not all, my efforts -- all of which will become part of my Laozi Initiative within The Mindfulness Foodways -- will also incorporate other teachings that center around food as medicine, such as Yakuzen, or food as ways to improve health, such as Washoku. Both of these approaches come from Japanese cooking (although Yakuzen is based on Chinese medicinal teachings known as Yaoshan). 

I should have taken these steps much earlier in my culinary life, but my mind was not ready. I believe that it is now. This more spiritual and philosophical mindset will become my focus as I continue on my culinary journey. That journey will remain along the same path to which I have committed myself: one of learning, understanding and empathy through food.  

You can follow me by checking out The Mindfulness Foodways, where you can see both my Buddha Initiative (being more mindful when cooking) and my Laozi Initiative, which focuses on the balance in my cooking. It is truly a thousand mile journey, so feel free to visit periodically.

PEACE.

Little Fish, Big Problem

"And you only get big fish if you leave enough little fish in the ocean." 

-- Carl LoBue, The Nature Conservancy

Atlantic Menhaden are very small fish that are part of the herring family. Menhaden can be found from Nova Scotia to northern Florida, as well as everywhere in between, including the Chesapeake Bay. The fish are filter feeders, collecting zooplankton and phytoplankton by filtering the water as they swim. 

Menhaden have been called the "most important fish" in the sea, not because of what they eat, but because of what eats them. All types of larger fish and even mammals, from striped bass to dolphins, feast on schools of menhaden. (Dolphins can eat up to twenty pounds of menhanden in a day.)  Seabirds such as osprey, bald eagles, and pelicans also rely upon the small oily fish as a food source. By all accounts, this very small fish has a very oversized role in the aquatic food chain. 

It also has had a very large role in our history. Native Americans referred to the fish as munnawhateaug, which translates to "fertilizer." That was an apt name because indigenous people used the little, bony fish to fertilize their crops. It is believed that the Native Americans taught early colonists to plant the fish along with corn seeds, knowing that the nutrient-rich fish would help the crops grow. 

Today, these little fish end up in much more than fertilizer: they are used to produce fish oil, fish meal, and even fish bait. The utility of the small fish means that the landings (that is, the catch) of menhaden exceeds any other fish caught in the United States. In the Chesapeake Bay, all of the menhaden are primarily caught by one company: Omega Protein, a subsidiary of a Canadian corporation, and its partner Ocean Harvesters. Both primarily operate in Virginia, which is one of the only states that still allows industrial scale fishing of menhaden. 

Ocean Harvesters' vessels use purse seine netting, which are large walled nets, to catch the menhaden. While purse seines are often criticized for the amounts of bycatch, especially when using fish aggregating devices, the issue in this instance is that the use of purse seines results in an overcatch of mehaden. The menhaden catch is already subject to regulation, limiting the amount of fish that can be caught in any year. Omega and its partner have been accused of exceeding those limitations in previous years. Back in 2019, it admitted to exceeding the limits. 

Ocean Harvesters' vessels using purse seine netting to catch mehaden
(Source: Chesapeake Bay Foundation, Theodore Roosevelt Conservation Partnership and
Cosmovision Media

Yet, limitations are put in place for a reason, and, there are concerns that overfishing menhaden will have ripple effects across the Chesapeake Bay and elsewhere (the menhaden do migrate to North Carolina in the fall and winter). The biggest concern is the loss of food for other marine species, given the menhaden's critical role in the food chain. In fact, the Atlantic States Marine Fisheries Commission determined that the current limitation on mehanden fishing would threaten the striped bass population. Other studies have shown an impact on osprey, as evidenced by an increase in the starvation rate among osprey chicks.  

Most recently, the commission voted to reduce the limits on mehaden fishing by 20%. The change was due to reduced estimates of menhaden populations in the waters. The Commission also voted to consider additional changes to the catch levels in the Chesapeake Bay, although no such change was immediately implemented. These changes are overwhelmingly supported by the public, with 92% of voters in Virginia supporting leaving more mehanden in the bay.

While the reduction in catch limits is welcomed, more needs to be done, especially to support other fisheries, like the striped bass fishery. Yet, the issue is often pitted as jobs (namely, those who work for Omega Protein and Ocean Harvesters catching and processing mehanden) versus the environment. Such an issue is really not one at all. If there are no menhaden, not only are there no striped bass, but there are also no jobs catching and processing mehaden. It is far easier to retrain a worker than it is to restore a species that goes locally extinct (although, as I have previously noted, that story of the bay scallop shows that the task is extremely difficult, but not impossible). 

Our history has shown us to be very bad at balancing our needs with the environment, especially when it comes to the rivers, seas and oceans. Menhaden are a textbook example of that imbalance, as well as the ripple effects it can have throughout an ecoystem. We need more research and more action to ensure the future of not just those tiny fish, but also everything else that depends upon them.

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Post Script: For more about mehanden, check out the Chesapeake Bay Foundation's website. You can also watch this episode of Earth Focus from PBS about the film, Menhaden: The Most Important Fish in the Bay:

PEACE.

Butter-Braised Mashed Potatoes

The potato is a venerable tuber. Its history, at least as defined by its cultivation by people, dates back at least 7,000 years. Its origin can be traced to the Andes Mountains in South America, somewhere around northwestern Bolivia and southeastern Peru. Indigenous cultures discovered that the tuber, which grew in different varieties, could be boiled and mashed to produce a tasty, and relatively healthy, foodstuff. 

Centuries later, people around the world are boiling, frying, steaming, and stewing the thousands of different varieties of potatoes. (As an aside, there are approximately 4,000 different varieties of potatoes in the Andes Mountains alone.) This is due partly to the fact that potatoes can be cultivated in a wide range of environs, from the coasts to the mountains. They can also be grown in a wide range of places, from Peru to Greenland. Most importantly, potatoes are relatively cheap to cultivate and more productive than other crops (like grains), making the tubers an important food for the masses.

Someday, I will explore the role of the modest potato in cucina povera, because that subject, as well as that cuisine, interests me greatly. However, I had a more immediate problem: how to best prepare mashed potatoes for a recent holiday feast. For decades, I did prepared mashed potatoes the "traditional way," boiling the potatoes, and mashing them while adding butter and milk. That was how I was taught to prepare them. A while back, I used to experiment by adding cheese, such as Parmigiano Reggiano or Wesleydale cheese, or other ingredients, like bone marrow (which is a popular post among readers). These efforts produced good side dishes, but I wanted to improve on my mashed potatoes skills. 

Enter Chris Kimball's Milk Street. I had gotten a subscription to the magazine as a gift from my inlaws. One of the magazines had a recipe for butter braised mashed potatoes. The use of the word "braised" caught my attention because it suggested a different way to make the dish. I read the recipe and decided to give it a try. Milk Street's recipe draws its inspiration from a potato dish found in Turkish cuisine. (Although Milk Street does not name the recipe, perhaps it was Patates Pacasi, which Milk Street highlighted back in 2022.) The cooks at Milk Street modified the Turkish recipe by reducing the water and adding the butter. This step was based on science, as the butterfat coats the potatoes, reducing water absorption and helping to preserve the potato flavor. It also reduces the amount of starch granules that burst, which results in a fluffier and less gluey texture. 

The recipe suggests using russet potatoes over Yukon Gold. Russet potatoes have higher starch contents, as well as lower water contents, which help produce lighter, fluffier mashed potatoes. By contrast, Yukon Gold potatoes will produce a creamier mashed potato, which is not quite the result contemplated by the recipe. Light, fluffy potatoes are the goal; so, I used russet potatoes. The end result was far better than any mashed potatoes that I have previously prepared. They were truly lighter and fluffier, while still buttery and potatoey in flavor. These butter-braised mashed potatoes were also a hit among the guests. It was the one dish that had the least amount of leftovers.

I think I have found my go to recipe for mashed potatoes. Thank you, Milk Street.

BUTTER-BRAISED MASHED POTATOES

Recipe from Christopher Kimball's Milk Street (Oct.-Dec. 2025), pp. 12-13

Serves 6-8 

Ingredients:

• 3 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
• 18 tablespoons salted butter, cut into chunks
• Kosher salt
• Ground black pepper
• Boiling water, if served right away
• Chives, chopped, to serve

Directions:

1. Prepare the potatoes. Place the potatoes in a colander; rinse briefly under cool water while tossing. Drain well, then transfer to a large (7-8 quart) Dutch oven, distribute evenly. Add 1 1/2 cups of water; the potatoes will not be fully submerged. Sprinkler with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, then drop in the butter. 

2. Boil the potatoes. Bring to a boil over medium high heat, then cover, reduce to medium low heat and simmer, stirring occasionally until the potatoes fall apart when pierced with a fork, 25-30 minutes. Uncover and cook over medium stirring only once or twice, until only a little starchy liquid remains in the bottom of the pot, about 3 to 5 minutes. Off heat, use a potato masher to mash the potatoes until smooth. 

3. If serving right away. Add 1/2 cup boiling water and mash until the water is incorporated. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a warmed serving dish and sprinkle with chives and additional pepper. 

4. If making ahead. Transfer to a container and cool completely, then cover tightly and refrigerate up to 2 days. To reheat, transfer the potatoes to a large saucepan and add 3/4 cup water. Cover and cook over medium-low, mashing occasionally (do not stir) until the potatoes are warm and fluffy, about 20 minutes; add more water a few tablesppons at a time as needed to adjust consistency. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a warmed serving dish and sprinkler with chives and additional pepper. 

PEACE.

Hamdi's Fried Livers

"... anyone, from any corner of the world, can come to live in the United States and become an American." 

-- President Ronald Reagan

I cannot believe that I am quoting President Reagan, but here we are. The ol' Gipper has been gone for some time. Now, in his place, we have a warped megaphone, our forty-seventh President. He loudly screeches racist, white supremacist attacks against minority communities. Those attacks echo throughout our billionaire-owned media outlets and social media platforms, reaching practically every corner of our country. One statement, like the President's description of the Somali community in the United States as "garbage," can rumble across the country like an earthquake, shaking the foundation of our society, as the media repeats those statements like aftershocks.

The foundation of our country is a unique social experiment. However, unlike most experiments, the result does not exist in a fixed moment in time. It is not July 4, 1776, when our founders signed the Declaration of Independence or September 17, 1787, when our Constitution was signed. It isn't even some point in the 1940s or 1950s, when Normal Rockwell was producing his artwork.  The results of this unique experiment are measured over years, decades, and even centuries. 

Moreover, the subjects of the experiment -- Americans -- are not defined by any outward manifestation, such as skin color or gender. We are not even defined by what we believe, such as our religion. Who we are as Americans is defined by something far greater, something that transcends each individual. 

That "someting far greater" is what guided Somalis who made their way to this country. And, in fact, Somalis have been coming to the United States since at least the 1920s. The Somalis who settled here became U.S. citizens; and, a few decades later, when Somalia finally became an independent nation in 1960, they were joined by Somali students seeking a better education in this country. As the new country succumbed to internal turmoil, resulting in the eventual ouster of the socialist dictator Mohammed Siad Barre in 1991 and the collapse of the government thereafter, even more Somalis fled to our country, looking for a better life or themselves and their families in a more peaceful place. 

Over time, Somali-American communities emerged across the United States. It is estimated that there are 260,000 Somalis living in the United States. The largest Somali-American community can be found in the "Land of 10,000 Lakes," because Minnesotans are known for their martisoor or "hospitality," which reflects the Somalis' own values. As they settled in our country, most became citizens. Of the foreign-born Somalis in our country, 87% of them have become naturalized citizens. They chose to become Americans. They have also become a part of the workforce, contributing their talents, knowledge and skills to help the economy, locally, state-wide, and nationally. For example, in the State of Minnesota, the Somali-American community generates at least $500 million in income annually, and pays $67 million in state and local taxes. (Statistics like these are repeated, over and over again, community by community of immigrants, migrants and refugees who come to this country.)

To be certain, the history of the United States is scarred and potmarked with racism, ethno-phobia and intolerance towards those who come to this country seeking a better life. Those scars remind us of the worst in ourselves, which prevents us from truly making America great: people come to our country looking for a better life for themselves and their families. They bring with them an incredible amount of potential, whether it is academic, artistic, economic, social, or, along the themes of this blog, culinary. Over the course of our history, our country has harnessed that potential in ways that benefitted everyone, including those whose families have lived in this country for centuries. But, if we wallow waist-deep in intolerance, or if we cling to myths like the United States being a white, male-dominated, christian nation (we have always been a polyglot of peoples and of a nation), then we are denying to ourselves our strongest asset and depriving everyone of better lives. 

Source: MN Natural History Museum

It is not the President's statements about the Somali community that motivated me to write this post. Instead, it was a cookbook, Soo Fariista, Come Sit Down. This book brings together recipes from Somali high school students who live in Minnesota. It is their collective effort to promote learning and understanding of their own culture and identity (something that has become a mission of my blog). They are sharing their culture and cuisine, showing how they have been able to bring their in an effort to find common ground with us. 

One particular recipe in the cookbook involves the preparation of fried liver. The recipe comes from a student, Hamdi, who ate fried liver while she traveled in east Africa. While that recipe created some "controversy" among the student authors, as it would for many youth in this country (few kids voluntarily eat liver), they all agreed that it was very Somali to eat liver. It also happens to be very Chef Bolek to eat liver. For that reason, I decided to make the recipe.

We all must acknowledge that the Somali community -- like all immigrant, migrant, or refugee communities in the United States -- are not trash, but treasures. The United States has many such treasures, but we can only recognize them if we accept that our country is not a melting pot, where everyone melts together in some grossly, thick white colored cheese that is supposed to coat every aspect of our economy, society and government. Instead, the United States is more like a mixed salad, perhaps a Somali Summer Salad, with separate ingredients coming together to add flavor to the overall dish. The combination of ingredients makes the end product -- the United States -- a better country. 

HAMDI'S FRIED LIVERS

Recipe provided by Hamdi to MPR News

Serves 4

Ingredients:

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 onion diced
• 1 green bell pepper, diced
• 1 pound goat or beef liver, chopped
• 2 tablespoons chicken bouillon
• Salt

Directions:

1. Saute the onion and peppers. Heat oil in a large cast-iron skillet until smoking. Add the onion and green pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until softened about 5 minutes.

2. Saute the liver. Add the liver and bouillon and cook for approximately 15 minutes, adding water if pan becomes dry. Season with salt to taste. 

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Finally, rather than listen to our current President attack communities within our country or the media repeat those attacks, I recommend taking less than five minutes to watch and listen to President Reagan speak about immigration (again, I can't believe I am saying that):

Those in the Somali-American community are living examples of what President Reagan spoke about so many years ago. They are part of what makes this country great and their desire to come to this country, seek out the American dream, and contribute to our country, giving much more than they receive while here. But, as President Reagan noted, their most important contribution is to renew our pride and gratitude in our country. When we defend communities like the Somali-Americans, we are also defending and honoring our country.

PEACE.