Around the World in 80 Dishes: Gabon

With many African countries, there is always two stories (at least) when it comes to the cuisine. There is the story about the cuisine of the indigenous people; and, there is the other story about the influences inserted into that cuisine during the colonialist period. I often struggle with those two stories, wavering between those stories when pursuing my personal culinary challenge, Around the World in in 80 Dishes. More often than not, the emphasis tends toward the indigenous peoples.  (After all, if I want to do a personal culinary challenge that involves English or French culinary influences, I could always do a challenge for the United Kingdom or France.) But, that is not always the case. Sometimes, I have to take both stories into account. 

Take, for example, the country of Gabon. It is situated in west-central Africa along the Atlantic Coast. The territory had long been the home of various Bantu groups, including the Fang, Punu (or Bapunu), Teke (or Bateke), and the Bakota. Its southern reaches were part of the Kingdom of Loango, whose obscure origins get lost in the beautiful art, such as intricately carved ivory tusks, along with a developed society and economy. 

Then came the European explorers and colonizers.  The Portuguese arrived first in the late 15th century. The Portugese provided the name, Gabao, which translates to "a coat with sleeves."  The French followed and stayed, establishing a protectorate in the area between 1838 and 1841. Several years later, the French freed a slave vessel and transported the persons to an area near a French post.  The freed slaves established Libreville (Free city), which would eventually become the capital of an independent Gabon. That independence would not come until 1960. 

While Gabon achieved its independence, it still embraces the French influences, especially when it comes to the country's cuisine. Beignets and brochettes are popular among the Gabonnais. Indigenous foods are also present, taking advantage of local ingredients, such as cassava and atanga. The most common proteins are chicken and fish, but beef, goat, lamb and other meats can be found as well. I decided to focus on the use of beef for this particular challenge, because I found a recipe that I could not resist to make. 

MAIN COURSE

Before I get to that recipe, I wanted to make an observation.  As I have pursued my Around the World in 80 Dishes, one of my favorite challenges involved a sandwich, the Chivitos al Pan. I made that sandwich to complete a main course from Uruguay. That was ten years ago.  I think it is time for another sandwich challenge.  Rather than a heart clogging conglomerations of steak, ham, bacon and cheese stuffed between two buns, I decided to take on some central African barbecue. 

That barbecue is known as Coupe Coupe. The name comes from the past participle of the French word, coupe or "to cut." Coupe Coupe is a catchall for a type of barbecue that is common throughout central Africa, including Gabon, as well as in neighboring countries such as Cameroon, Republic of Congo and Democratic Republic of Congo. 

As to how one could describe this barbecue, I think the best description comes from Barbecue: A Global History (at page 74), by Johnathan Deutsch and Megan Elias. Deutsch and Elias describe Coupe Coupe "represents a fusion of indigenous ingredients and techniques with colonial influences." They do not go on to explain that characterization, which I guess leaves it to the readers' imaginations to fill in the blanks. 

Coupe coupe is quintessential street food in Gabon. Men and women work in small food stalls to prep the meat and cook it.  When it comes to cooking the meat, which is usually chicken or beef, the methods differ with the cooks.  Some grill the meat, while others slow roast or smoke it. Either way, the cooks have to start early so that they have enough for the lunch crowd. Once the meat is ready, the cooks slice, chop or pull it, thereafter stuffing the meat into small foil packets that are served to hungry customers with a section of a baguette.  The meat and bread are also served with toppings, such as grilled peppers and onions, or sauces, such as a hot pepper (pili pili) sauce. 

COUPE COUPE

Recipe adapted from Global Table Adventure and Congo Cookbook

Serves 4

Ingredients:

• 1 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1 1/2 teaspoon powdered chicken bouillon
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne
• 1 1/2 pounds of flank steak
• Vegetable oil
• Salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Grilled poblano peppers, skinned and cut into strips
• 1 onion, sliced and grilled
• 1 baguette
• 2 cups of hickory chips

Directions:

1.    Prepare the fire.  Soak the hickory chips for at least 15 to 30 minutes, or if you use hickory chunks, for 30 minutes to 60 minutes depending upon their size.  Start a fire in a chimney and get it ready to be placed in the smoker. 

2.  Prepare the flank steak.  Place the powdered chicken bouillon, garlic powder and cayenne, as well as salt and black pepper, in a small bowl and stir until well mixed. Apply some oil on the flank steak and then apply the spice mix.  Once the steak is covered, wrap it in plastic and allow it to marinate for at least a half hour to an hour in the refrigerator. 

3. Smoke the steak. Remove the steak from the refrigerator and let it come to room temperature.  Once the smoker registers 225 to 250 degrees Fahrenheit, place the steak on the grill and add the hickory chips/chunks to the fire. Smoke the meat until it registers about 145 degrees Fahrenheit as an internal temperature.  Remove the meat and let it rest for 5 to 10 minutes. 

4. Finish the dish.  While the steak is the smoker, grill the poblano peppers, remove the blackened skin and slice.  Grill the onion and slice that as well.  Place the baguette on the grill to toast for a minute or two and remove. Once all of the ingredients have been prepared, lay slices of the flank steak on the bread, top with the peppers and onions, and serve immediately. 

*    *    *

While it is always hard to top a sandwich like the Chivitos, with multiple different types of pork and beef, as well as an egg, I have to say that the Coupe Coupe came in a very close second. Quite frankly, this challenge has gotten me into thinking about more street food as part of my personal culinary challenge. Only time will tell. Until next time ...

ENJOY!

Indian Flank Steak Tacos

For me, fusion cuisine is something of an issue.  I am a big fan of a wide ranges of cuisines, for the ingredients, the cooking processes and, of course, for the dishes produced.  When one starts picking and choosing from two or more cuisines to produce a dish, that becomes a little more problematic.  To be sure, there are some very good examples of fusion cuisine.  But, there are also a lot of misfires.

Yet, despite all of my misgivings about fusion food, this recipe caught my attention.  It involves the fusion between Mexican cuisine and Indian cuisine.  The smells and flavors of Masla-marinated meat served in naan to produce what is one of the most quintessential dishes of Mexican cuisine ... the taco.  Perhaps it is the fact that I like tacos.  Maybe it is the fact that I love Indian cuisine. Either way, I was determined to make this recipe.  And, apart from the need to improve my ability to cut flank steak on a bias, the recipe got me to rethink my view about fusion cuisine. 

The key to this recipe is the masala.  It begins with the classic of garlic and ginger, but only chiles, vinegar, curry leaves and onions are added to complete the masala.  (If you don't have curry leaves, don't worry, it will still turn out well.)  Once the masala is prepared, then the meat must be marinated.  The recipe calls for at least one hour of marination, but I would go at least two hours if not a little longer.  Once the steak is marinated, a quick grilling over high heat on the grill ensures that the steak will be incredibly delicious.  Just cut it on the bias to reduce the chewiness and serve with grilled naan, the onions, and the cilantro.  

Maybe fusion food is not that bad after all. 

INDIAN FLANK STEAK TACOS

Recipe adapted from Tasting Table

Serves 4

Ingredients (for the Masala):

3 tablespoons canola oil

1 large red onion, diced

1/2 cup packed curry leaves

6 garlic cloves, roughly chopped

1 serrano chile (or jalapeno chile), minced

1 three-inch piece of ginger, peeled and roughly chopped

1/4 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup white distilled vinegar

2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Ingredients (for the tacos):

1 pound of flank steak

1/2 red onion, plus more for serving, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

Grilled naan, for serving

Lime wedges, for serving

Cilantro leaves, for serving

Directions:

1.  Prepare the masala.  In a 12-inch skillet, heat the canola oil over medium-high heat.  Add the onions and cook  until translucent and lightly golden, 3 to 4 minutes.  Add the curry leaves, garlic, serrano (or jalapeno) and ginger and cook until fragrant, 2 minutes more.  Remove from the heat and transfer to a blender with the remaining masala ingredients.  Blend until smooth and let cool completely.

2.  Marinate the meat and the onions.  In a large bowl,  toss the flank steak with the masala to coat.  Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.  Meanwhile, in a small bowl, toss the sliced red onion with lime juice and set aside. 

3.  Grill the meat.  Light a grill or heat a cast iron grill pan over high heat.  Grill the steak, flipping once until caramelized and medium rare, 7 to 8 minutes.  Let rest for 5 minutes, then thinly slice against the grain on a bias. 

4.  Finish the dish. Serve the steak with pieces of grilled naan, sliced red onion and lime wedges, garnishing with cilantro leaves.

ENJOY!

Flank Steak Bulgogi

I know,  I know.  Bulgogi is not supposed to be made with flank steak. It should be thin slices of ribeye.  Using flank steak in bulgogi is like the foodie thing to do ... take something traditional and try to do something different with it.  But, in my defense, my beautiful Angel bought me five pounds of flank steak and I had to do something with it.  Something different.  Something bulgogi.

I am not going to get into the history of bulgogi, because that is for another post (like one in which I actually use thin slices of ribeye).  What I will say is that I was looking to make a creative dish, because I intended to use some (and eventually used all) of the flank steak for a dinner for my parents.  I wanted a dish that they would remember.

But, I have to admit, it was not just about making a great meal for my parents.  I really wanted to try bulgogi.  I never have had it (and, despite my effort, I will say I still have never had it).  A nice bulgogi dinner at a Korean BBQ joint is definitely on my to-do list.  And it has been on that list for a very, very, very long time.

So, with five to six pounds of flank steak (which, if you didn't know, is about 1/3 of the flank steak from your average cow), I decided to do a hackneyed idiom and kill two birds with one stone: satisfy my desire to try bulgogi and make a memorable meal for my parents. I scoured the internet for a bulgogi recipe that utilizes flank steak and, surprise, there were a few.  I picked the one that I liked the most, which was from the blog or website of Korean Bapsang, "a Korean Mom's Home Cooking."   The interesting twist to this recipe is the use of pineapple juice.  That is an ingredient that I would not have expected with South Korean cuisine.  Pineapples, not sea pineapples (that is a completely different post for probably a different blog - cue, Andrew Zimmern).   But, I digress ...

The rationale behind using the pineapple juice is to tenderize the flank steak.  As it turns out, pineapple contains an enzyme bromelain, which is used to tenderize meat.  That enzyme is found in fresh pineapple, but not canned pineapple because the canning process damages and destroys the enzyme.  Don't bottle with powdered pineapple (does that actually exist?) or bottled pineapple juice. The recipe calls for a can of pineapple, which runs counter to what I just wrote.  But, if you can get an actual pineapple, and you can juice the hell out of it, use that juice to marinate the beef.

In the end, this is a great recipe if you want a quick way to make bulgogi without adhering to the traditional expectations of the dish and you want to cut a few corners in order to feed your family now rather than in several hours.  It is definitely worth it.

FLANK STEAK BULGOGI

Recipe from Korean Babsang

Serves 4

Ingredients (for the steak):

1 flank steak (about 1.5 to 2 pounds)

2 scallions

Ingredients (for the marinade):

5 to 6 tablespoons soy sauce

3 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons rice wine (or mirin)

4 tablespoons juice from a can of pineapple

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 to 1.5 teaspoons finely grated ginger

2 tablespoons sesame oil

2 teaspoons sesame seeds

1/8 teaspoon pepper

Directions:

1. Prepare the meat.  Slice the meat (about 1/3 to 1/4 inch thick) against the grain at a steep angle.  Combine all of the marinade ingredients in a bowl and mix well.  Add the meat and mix well until evenly coated.   Marinate for at least 1 hour. 

2.  Cook the meat.  Heat a grill pan over high heat and add a few slices.  Lower the heat as necessary.  The marinade may burn if the heat is too high.  Cook until the meat is is cooked through and slightly caramelized, one or two minutes per side. 

3.  Finish the dish.  Serve the meat with any of the accompaniments associated with bulgogi.  In this case, I served it with thinly sliced red onions, scallions and carrots, with lettuce to serve as a wrap.

ENJOY!

Grilled Steak with Green Sriracha

One of the things on my culinary bucket list is to make my own hot sauce.  It may not seem like much, especially to cooks and chefs who could easily make a hot sauce for various dishes.  However, I love hot sauce.  I really, really LOVE hot sauce.  I usually keep at least 3 or 4 different types of hot sauce on hand in our refrigerator, including the "staples," like Tabasco and Sriracha. 

Recently, I came across a recipe for a grilled steak with a green sriracha sauce.  A sriracha sauce is a type of hot sauce typically made from chiles, distilled vinegar, garlic, sugar and salt. The sauce is Thai in origin, often called sot Siracha; the name comes from the city of Si Racha, which is located in the Chonburi province of eastern Thailand.  The sauce is typically used in Thai cuisine as a condiment; and, it even finds its way into Vietnamese cuisine, served alongside bowls of phở.

Sriracha is particularly popular in the United States.  Given that over one ton of Sriracha sauce is produced every hour, it has found its way into many grocery stores and restaurants across the United States.  The supply is readily eaten by demand, including one person who consumed three bottles of it at one time.  While I have consumed my fair share of Sriracha sauce, I have never simply guzzled the hot sauce.  It is best drizzled over food, especially fried or grilled foods.

While the red Sriracha sauce is almost ubiquitous, the green sauce seems more intriguing and it is one that I have never tried before.  The recipe incorporates green chiles -- roasted poblano peppers and serrano chiles -- with a range of fresh ingredients such as basil, chives, cilantro, lemongrass, lime leaves and coconut.  The poblano peppers add depth to the flavor of the sauce, while the serrano chiles provide quite the kick, which one would expect.  The end result is a hot sauce that is in many respects better than the red Sriracha.  Maybe it is the use of fresh ingredients, prepared using a blender.  Maybe it is the tartness of the lime juice contrasted with the heat of the serranos, along the field of chives, cilantro, basil and mint.  Maybe it is just that I love most of what I make.    

GRILLED STEAK WITH GREEN SRIRACHA

Recipe from Food & Wine

Serves 4

Ingredients:

3 large poblano chiles 

2 serrano chiles

3 large garlic cloves, peeled & smashed

1/2 cup fresh ginger, sliced

1 half-inch piece of turmeric or

     1/2 teaspoon of ground turmeric

1 cup shredded unsweetened coconut

2 loose cups of basil leaves

2 loose cups of mint leaves

1 1/2 cups of snipped chives

1/2 cup of chopped cilantro

4 kaffir lime leaves, shredded

1 lemongrass stalk, tender inner bulb, bottom 4 inches

     peeled and thinly sliced

1 cup canola oil, plus more for grilling

1/4 cup of lime juice, plus 2 tablespoons

Kosher salt

4-5 pounds of steak, such as flank steak or skirt steak, cut into 

     4 even sized pieces

Directions:

1.  Prepare the Green Sriracha.  Roast the poblano chiles directly over a gas flame, turning, until charred and tender.  Transfer to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let cool.  Peel, core and seed the poblanos.  Transfer the poblanos to a blender.  Add the serranos, garlic, ginger, turmeric, coconut, basil, mint, chives, cilantro, lime leaves and lemongrass and pulse to chop.  With the machine on, add the 1 cup of oil and puree.  Add the lime juice and season the green Sriracha with salt. Once the sauce is made, it can be refrigerated for up to three days.

2.  Grill the steak.  Light a grill.  Brush the steaks with oil and season with salt.  Oil the grill grates and grill the steaks in batches over high heat, turning once or twice, until the meat is lightly charred and medium rare, 5 to 6 minutes.  Cook a little longer, 1 to 2 minutes more, to obtain medium, if that is your desired doneness.  Transfer to a carving board and let rest for 5 minutes before slicing across the grain.  Serve the steak with the green Sriracha.

Around the World in 80 Dishes: Cuba

After having Hushuur in Mongolia, my culinary adventures take me half-way around the world to ... Cuba. The cuisine of Cuba reflects its history and culture, influenced by a melange of Caribbean, Spanish and African foods and cooking techniques.  The European influences are more predominant in Western Cuba, while the Caribbean and African influences are more present in Eastern Cuba.  And, for my personal culinary challenge, I decided to draw from the entire island with a main dish of Ropa Vieja, with a side of Congri (red beans and rice).  And, for good measure, I decided that I would also make my own Cuban sofrito.

I've had Ropa Vieja at Cuban or Latin American restaurants before, so the dish is not new to me.  However, I've never made that dish before.  I have also never made Congri or my own Cuban sofrito before.  So, this challenge represents some firsts for me and, as you will see, there will not be any lasts.

THE MAIN DISH

Ropa Vieja means "old clothes" in Spanish and it is a dish that is not only enjoyed in Cuba, but also in Panama, the Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico.  This dish originated in the Canary Islands of Spain, which served as the last stop before the voyage to the Caribbean and the first stop when returning from the Caribbean.  In the Canary Islands, the dish was made with beef, chicken or pork, with garbanzo beans and potatoes.  However, in Cuba, it is just made with the meat, no beans or potatoes are added. 

In making this dish, I worked off of two recipes, which had different ways of preparing the dish.  The first way to prepare the dish (which is done by 3 Guys from Miami) is to prepare the meat separately from the sauce.  The second way (which is done by Taste of Cuba)  is to prepare the meat and cook it in the sauce.  The second recipe also included the use of sofrito, which I wanted to make as part of this challenge.  So, I combined both recipes, by first preparing the meat separately by simmering it in a broth with vegetables for a couple of hours and then preparing the sauce in the same pot, thereby enabling me to use the broth and browned bits in the sauce.  I also used some sofrito, in addition to the vegetables called for in the recipe, to give extra flavor to the sauce.

ROPA VIEJA

Adapted from 3 Guys from Miami and Taste of Cuba

Serves 4 to 6

Ingredients (for the beef):
2 pounds of flank steak
5 tablespoons of olive oil
1 large onion, sliced
1 green pepper, diced
5 cloves of garlic, chopped
Flour for dusting

Ingredients (for the sauce):
2 onions, diced
2 green peppers, diced
1 can of crushed tomatoes
4 ounces tomato paste
4 cloves of garlic, mashed with 1 teaspoon of salt
1 cup of red wine (I used Tempranillo)
1 bay leaf
2 teaspoons of ground cumin
Olive oil for sauteing
Salt, to taste
Black pepper, to taste
6 ounces of sofrito (see recipe below)

Directions:

1.  Brown the flank steak.  Dust the flank steak with flour, as well as salt and pepper the beef.   Heat the olive oil to medium high.   Brown the flank steak in a dutch oven or a deep cast iron pot.

2.  Simmer the steak with the vegetables.  Add enough water to surround the meat without covering it.  Add the onion, garlic and green pepper.  Simmer covered for about two hours. 

3.  Shred the steak.  When the meat is fork tender, then it is done.  Remove the meat to a platter and shred it. Discard the vegetables but save the broth.

4.  Prepare the sauce.  In the same pot that you cooked the meat, add additional olive oil for sauteing and heat to medium high.  Add the sofrito, along with the onions, garlic, and green pepper.  Saute until all of the vegetables are tender, which should be about ten minutes. Add the tomato paste, crushed tomatoes, cumin, red wine and bay leaf.  Also add a few ladles of the broth.  Salt and pepper to taste.  Let the sauce simmer for ten minutes.  Add the shredded beef and continue to simmer for about ten more minutes.  

THE SIDE DISH

Ropa Vieja is usually served with or on top of rice. As with prior challenges, I try to make a complete meal whenever I can, including side dishes and beverages if possible.  One of the most common rice and bean dishes is Moros y Christianos (Moors & Christians), which is made with black beans and white rice.  However, as I noted above, I wanted to draw from the entire island of Cuba with this challenge.  The Ropa Vieja, with its European history, represents the western part of Cuba.  I needed a recipe that represents Cuba Oriente, or the eastern part of Cuba.

So, I decided to make Congri, which is a variant of Moros y Christianos.  Instead of using black beans, recipes for Congri call for the use of red beans.  This dish is very easy to make, especially if you use canned beans instead of dried beans, which saves time in terms of cooking the beans.  It is also a very fragrant dish, as the oregano and thyme, combined with the tomatoes, will fill the kitchen with wonderful scents. 

CONGRI (Cuban Red Beans and Rice)

Adapted from Whats4Eats

Serves 4 to 6

Ingredients:
2 cups red beans
2-3 tablespoons of olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2-3 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon dried thyme
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1 bay leaf
1 cup of rice
1 3/4 cup of chicken broth
1 tablespoon of red wine vinegar

Directions:

1.   Saute the vegetables.  Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium flame. Add the onion and bell pepper and sauté until the onion is translucent. Add the garlic and sauté for another 1 to 2 minutes.

2.  Add ingredients.  Add the tomato sauce, beans and herbs.  Simmer for ten minutes.

3.  Add more ingredients.  Stir in the rice, broth and vinegar.  Season everything with salt and ground pepper.  Bring to a boil and the reduce, cover and simmer for about fifteen to eighteen minutes.

4.  Let the rice stand.  Remove from the heat and let stand for five to ten minutes.  Stir lightly and serve.

THE EXTRA

A sofrito is the term for the combination of finely cut ingredients that are sauteed in oil.  In Spanish cooking, a sofrito is the combination of garlic, onions and tomato, which are sauteed for a period of time in olive oil.  In Cuba, a sofrito has one additional ingredient ... green bell peppers. You could also add other ingredients, such as white wine, cumin or cilantro, but the basic recipe calls for five ingredients: garlic, onion, tomato, bell pepper and olive oil.  So, I stuck with that recipe, which is used by cooks and chefs as the basis for many dishes, including Ropa Vieja.

CUBAN SOFRITO

Adapted from Whats4eats

Makes 1 1/2 cups 

Ingredients:
1 tomato, seeded and diced
1 onion, finely diced
1 green pepper, finely diced
1/8 cup of olive oil
2-3 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 cup olive oil

Directions:

1. Saute the vegetables.  Heat 1/8 of a cup of olive oil over medium.  Add the onions and garlic.  Saute until the onions are translucent.

2.  Continue to cook the vegetables.  Add the diced tomato.  Stir and continue to cook until it reduces a little.

3.  Add olive oil.  Remove heat and stir in the 1/4 cup of olive oil.

Overall, I think this meal was a great success.  I was able to prepare the Vieja Ropa very well, cooking the flank steak to a point that it shredded easily.  Preparing the flank steak separately from the sauce also made the whole process a lot easier, reducing the mess of trying to pull the steak out of the sauce to shred it.  It also provided me with an additional ingredient to flavor the sauce, namely the broth in which the steak and vegetables had been cooking for two hours.  And, as for the final product, the Vieja Ropa was very good, the cumin balanced well with the tomato, although the flank steak was a little chewy.

The Congri was excellent.  The rice was cooked perfectly and was a very good counterpart to the red beans.  This dish can be modified to make it vegetarian by substituting vegetable broth or vegetable stock for chicken broth.  You could also use water instead of broth or stock, although I think that will lessen the favor of the dish.  I will definitely make this meal again, especially the Congri. Until next time....

ENJOY!

For more information on Ropa Vieja, check out Wikipedia and for more information on sofrito, check out Wikipedia.