Nanticoke Catfish

"The Black watermen of the Chesapeake Bay have the same kind of impact as the Tuskeegee Airmen, the same impact as the Buffalo Soldier. But their story is just beginning to be told." 

-- Vincent O. Leggett, Author

African-American watermen were pioneers. Yet, unlike the Tuskeegee Airmen and the Buffalo Soldier, the story of these watermen is as old as the story of the United States. As the British brought slaves to the Chesapeake Bay area, slave-owners put them to work on vessels that plied the waters to catch fish, along with harvesting oysters and crabs. Yet, the waters were more than work, they were a way to freedom and economic independence. 

As early as 1796, the federal government began issuing Seaman Protection Certificates. Such a certificate declared that its holder, an African-American, was a citizen of the United States. Certificate holders were often referred to as "Black Jacks." They were free from the bondage of slavery (as illustrated by Frederick Douglass, who borrowed a certificate from a friend to make his way out of the slave-owning, eastern shore of Maryland to the freedom of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania). But, they were not free from the discrimination and oppression of a racist society, economy and government.  African-Americans still suffered under unjust laws that restricted what they could do on the water. For example, Maryland passed a law that prohibited African-Americans from owning a boat large enough that it had to be registered (and, of course, large enough to engage in oystering, finfishing, crabbing, and other work). They often depended upon lax enforcement, or white bosses, to make it possible to work. 

The Civil War freed African-Americans from the bonds of slavery, but not the racist discrimination and segregation that remained and reconstituted itself under Jim Crow laws. Yet, even under these awful conditions, African Americans found freedom and independence, both on the water and adjacent to it. African American watermen continued to serve as captain and crew on vessels, many of which had white owners, but the watermen were able to earn enough to support themselves and their families. They benefited from a larger economic environment, one in which oysters and fish from the bay were in high demand. 

Downes Curtis

African-Americans were also able to establish their economic independence along the coasts, setting up their own businesses related to the seafood industry. Take, for example, the story of Downes Curtis, one of the only African-American sailmakers in the Chesapeake Bay region. Downes and his brother learned the craft from Dave Pritchett, an English sailmaker, in Oxford, Maryland. After Pritchett died, the Downes Curtis continued the business. They cut sails for log canoes and oysterboats in a building that once served as a school for African-American children.  (Today, the building is a private residence). Curtis built up a business that not only served African-Americans working on the bay, for vessels that raced its waters, like the Island Blossom. Curtis continued this work until 1996, when he died at age 85.

African-American Watermen working on a
fishing boat outside of Alexandria, VA 

Back on the waters, African-American watermen continued to captain and work on vessels up and down the Bay. They also developed their work methods, including the use of work songs or shantys. The use of such songs can be traced to early customs of African slaves working on plantations. Watermen used work songs to coordinate their work pulling up fish nets, such as the nets used to catch menhaden. As explained by William Hudnall, who organized a group of watermen who sing the shantys: The harmony brings everyone together on the same chord at the same time, and that's what made the work easier." The songs are sung by leaders and workers, with the former calling first followed by the response of the latter. Together, they would haul in the large purse seine nets, inch by inch, until the menhaden were on board. This tradition disappeared with the advent of mechanical equipment that could haul the nets onboard. The songs went silent for years and then decades.

During that time and thereafter, the maritime industry on the Chesapeake Bay plummeted with the populations of oysters, finfish and blue crab. It became harder for African-American watermen, and, indeed all watermen, to continue their trade. That has resulted not only in fewer fishing vessels working the bay, but also in the potential loss of a very rich history. Given the significant contribution that African Americans have made to the Chesapeake Bay seafood industry, both on and off the water, its preservation has become an important issue. Their history is American history. The only difference is that it is not widely taught, if taught at all, in schools and universities. If you want to learn about it, as I did, you have to spend a lot of time on the Internet or visiting museums to learn their stories. 

After spending a lot of time reading on this subject, I decided to prepare a dish that honored the history of African-American watermen on the Chesapeake Bay. I turned my search to finding an appropriate dish. My search led me to Vincent Leggett, a person who dedicated his life to preserving the history of these watermen and telling their story to present day audiences. Leggett wrote a book, The Chesapeake Bay Through Ebony Eyes, which inclued recipes. One of those recipes is Nanticoke Catfish. The name references the Nanticoke River, a tributary of the bay that runs through the eastern shore of Maryland. (Nanticoke comes from the Algonquin word nantaquak, which means "tidal people."). It is a basic fried fish dish, using catfish that could be found along the eastern shore. While such a dish would have been typically prepared with the indigenous catfish, like a brown bullhead, it can be enjoyed today by using blue catfish, an invasive species that is wreaking havoc in the bay. 

NANTICOKE CATFISH

Recipe from Vincent O. Leggett, The Chesapeake Bay Through Ebony Eyes 

and available here

Serves 8

Ingredients:

• 1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
• 1/4 cup cornmeal
• 1 tablespoon rubbed sage
• 1 tablespoon cayenne pepper, or to taste
• 1 teaspoon garlic powder 
• 1 teaspoon onion powder
• 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon black pepper
• 4 large eggs
• 8 catfish fillets
• Vegetable oil

Directions:

1. Prepare the batter or breading. Mix the flour, cornmeal, sage, cayenne pepper, garlic powder, onion powder, nutmeg, salt and pepper in a shallow bowl or pie plate. In another shallow bowl or pie plate, whisk the eggs until well beaten. 

2. Prepare the fish. Rinse the catfish fillets under cold running water and pat them dry. 

3. Prepare the oven. Preheat the oven to 250 degrees Fahrenheit. Set a wire rack inside a rimmed baking sheet lined with paper towels. 

4. Prepare the oil. Pour vegetable oil to a depth of 1/2 inch in a large, deep skillet. Heat theoil over medium-high heat until shimmering but not smoking. 

5. Prepare the fillets. Dip the fillets into the eggs and let the excess drip off. Dredge them in the flour mixture and gently shake off the excess.

6. Fry the fillets. Working in batches to avoid overfilling the skillet, slip the fillets into the hot oil. Fry the fillets, turning once, about 4 minutes on each side, until the coating is crisp and golden brown and the fish is opaque in the center. Transfer the cooked fish to the wire rack and keep them warm in the oven until all of the fish fillets are fried. Serve hot with lemon wedges.

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Post Script: William Hudnall organized the Northern Neck Chantney Singers, a group of African-American watermen who would do a lot to preserve these work songs used in the menhaden fishing industry for future generations. To listen to their work, as well as learn about their history, check out this YouTube video:

PEACE.

Oysters with Citrus Pink Peppercorn Mignonette

If one is not specific in their research, then it could lead to unintended places. Take, for example, a search for the history of the mignonette sauce served alongside oysters. I entered those terms in an online search, but I ended up with the history of a vessel called "Mignonette." As I read that history, I was treatred to the story of sailors taking the vessel from England to Austrailia around the Cape of Good Hope. They never made it ... running into trouble off the coast of Africa. The story gets worse from there, ending in cannabalism as the desperate and hungry sailors ended up eating one of their own. 

(This is not my first encounter with a voyage gone wrong during my research. I previously posted about Captain Crockett's last breakfast, the meal he ate aboard his vessel before being killed by the cook.)

Nevertheless, the desperation and horror aboard a vessel was hardly the story I expected to find as I searched for the history of the mignonette sauce. I honed my research terms and was able to engage in more palatable reading: the history and oritgin of a sauce about which little thought is probably given by those who eat oysters.

With all of that said, the history of the mignonette sauce is a little less clear than what happened to the crew of the vessel. While the term mignonette is obviously French, there are some who believe the sauce originated in England. Regardless of its origin, a mignonette began as something completely different that its present day form. During the 16th and 17th centuries, the term referred to a small cloth satchel of crushed peppercorns and spices that would be added to broths, sauces, soups and stocks. The satchel would flavor the liquid while preventing the cracked spices from making their presence known in the final dish. 

Eventually, the sauce evolved into a mixture of vinegar with minced shallots and cracked black pepper. That evolution took place at some point during the nineteenth century. The sauce eventually became a popular condiment served alongside oysters in the late 1800s, especially among the upscale dining establishments in the United States and across Western Europe. The term, mignonette, means "small and sweet," which is an obvious reference to the oyster given the sauce consists of bitter and acidic ingredients. The combination of bitter and sweet helps to round out the experience of eating oysters.

That is pretty much the history of a mignonette sauce, small and sweet. 

This particular recipe takes a twist on the standard mignonette recipe. It uses rice wine vinegar, which is milder and sweeter than white wine vinegar or regular vinegar. It adds back in some acidity through the use of lemon juice and lime juice. It also provides a subtle pepper note through the use of cracked pink peppercorn, as opposed to the traditional tellicherry black peppercorn. This sauce is perhaps my favorite mignonette recipe because it tracks the traditional recipe but in creative ways. 

OYSTERS WITH CITRUS PINK PEPPERCORN MIGNONETTE

Recipe from Hama Hama Oysters

Serves 2-3

Ingredients:

• 1/3 cup rice wine viengar
• 1 lemon, juice & zest
• 1 lime, juice & zest
• 1/4 cup finely minced shallots (or substitute red onion)
• 1 teaspoon pink pepper corns, coarsely ground

Directions:

Stir all ingredients together and chill for an hour to infuse.

PEACE.

Crisfield Crab Cakes

Five weeks in Crisfield, Maryland, beginning on April 6, 1938 and running through May 10, 1938. Each and every day of that time period encapsulated much of the economic and social history of the United States throughout the twentieth century. Those five weeks not only summarize who we were then, but who we remain to this day. That summary is not only a story about our strengths, but also of our darker side. 

The five weeks marked the start and end of the Maryland Crab Pickers' Strike. 

Part One: A Little Background

For much of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Crisfield was known as the "Seafood Capital," not only of the Chesapeake Bay, but the entire world. While that capitol was built upon oyster shells (literally, as the shells were used as landfill to support the construction of buildings in the town), its lifeblood soon depended upon the blue crab. Watermen would dock at the Crisfield port and unload bushel after bushel of blue crabs. Those bushels were destined for the crab picking houses that lined the waterfront.  By 1938, Crisfield accounted for 13% of Maryland's blue crab catch, which amounted to more than 25,000 barrels. 

Yet, in 1938, the city of Crisfield was still in the grips of the depression. It was estimated that as much as 90% of the city's residents were unemployed. However, the waterfront was open for business, with 15 crab picking houses operating with workforces that consisted overwhelmingly of African-American women. The women worked long hours, sometimes 10 hours, 12 hours or even 16 hours per day. They earned only $0.35 cents per gallon of crab meat that they picked. That translated into about $1.00 to $1.50 of earnings per week. (Adjusted for inflation, the high end of that range would equal $33.76 of income per week in 2026.) And they did not even get all of that money at the end of the day, as the African-American women were forced to pay a $0.35 weekly charge back to their employer for the removal of the crab shells that picked.  So, in the end they were making $.65 to $1.35 per week for a job that required long hours of work in very bad conditions. 

Part Two: The Strike Begins

On April 4, 1938, the owners of the crab picking houses decided that they would reduce wages by nearly 29% from $0.35 per quart to $0.25 per quart. Although the owners claimed "economic conditions" forced them to make these cuts, the reality was that the owners expected that their workforce -- which was overwhelmingly comprised of African-American women -- would accept cut given they had jobs in a city that was wracked by unemployment. 

African-American women crab pickers in Crisfield, Maryland in or around 1938.
(Source: Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum and the Chesapeake Bay Magazine)

The owners were wrong. 

What happened next has to be viewed in a larger context. For years, there had been labor issues involving crab-picking operations up and down the Eastern Shore. In 1931, crab-pickers went on strike when the owners reduced the rates from $0.35 to $0.25 per gallon. The strike started with about 300 crab pickers, who marched door to door throughout Crisfield seeking support. Their ranks swelled by another 700 to 800 pickers. The strikers were largely African-American women, but about 100 of the strikers were white. They also got the support of the oyster shuckers working in the town. The owners backed off and restored the rates. 

Several years later, in 1937, the Congress of Industrial Organizations ("CIO") launched organizng drives among the all of the workers on the Eastern Shore. The CIO's biggest target was a seafood packing plant owned by Phillips in Cambridge, Maryland. The campaign involved over 2,000 black and white workers; and it culminated in a two week strike for wage increases and union recognition. The strikers were unsuccessful. However, that same year, the CIO successfully organized a crab picking house in Crisfield, Maryland. 

Thus, in 1938, the scene had been set. There had been prior strikes and prior union organizing, ending in both defeat and victory.  These factors may have been missed by the owners of the packing houses, but my guess is that they were known to the workers. Consequently, when the owners reduced the rates by five cents a quart, the African-American women who picked crabs went on strike. Six hundred of them struck, basically shutting down nearly all crab picking operations in Crisfield. The strike lasted for five weeks. And, a tumultuous five weeks it was. 

Part Three: The Violence

The strikers would meet at the Shiloh United Methodist Church on North Fourth Street. The strike committee would hold meetings there. They also had the assistance of the CIO, who sent an organizer, Michael Howard, who worked for the United Cannery, Agricultural, Packing and Allied Workers union. (This was the same union that lost the strike the prior year in Cambridge, MD.) Howard and other union organizers worked with unions and churches in Baltimore, Maryland to raise funds to support the strikers.  The funds were needed because the packinghouses had been putting pressure on local businesses to deny credit to the strikers and their families.

An excerpt from an African-American newspaper
in Baltimore, MD about the burning of Michael
Howard's car. The Shiloh Church is in the 
background. (Source: Bay to Bay News)

As the strike continued, the situation deteriorated as racism was injected into the strike. A white crowd numbering between 100 and 300 people gathered near the Shiloh Church. The crowd was searching for the CIO Organizer, Michael Howard, and another organizer named Terry Fowler. They stormed the home of two sisters -- Eleanor Coulbourne and Martina Cooper -- seeking information about the CIO organizer. The white mob also overturned Howard's car, which was outside the church, and set it on fire. The mob threatened to "burn the whole block."  According to the Associated Press, "[t]he men were said to have been incensed because organizers had been seen often in the Negro settlement." According to oral history, Howard was hiding in Upturf, an African-American neighborhood on Collins Avenue, just outside of town.

As for the city's response, the Associated Press reported that the mayor blamed the events on "radical" and "hot headed" persons. As for the burning of the union organizer's car, the mayor was reported by another newspaper, The Afro American, to have said that he was unsure whether the mob burned the car or the car "caught fire itself."

White residents continued to target other union organizers, forcing CIO organizer Leif Dahl to leave town. They also confronted another organizer, who was from the Amalgamated Clothing Workers Union and in the area trying to organize 200 workers at a Boycraft factory. The white mob dragged the organizer down a dirt road before telling him to "to get out of town." The racist, anti-union white residents even forced a mediator from the Federal Mediation & Conciliation Service, to leave the city. They thought the mediator was Michael Howard. The residents eventually found Michael Howard and forced him to leave, to the sound of guns being fired in the air. 

The situation was dire for the African-American crab pickers who continued to strike. As one African-American newspaper summarized the situation: 

Observers here point out that the defiance of the packers is one of the most open revolts against the National Labor Relations Act and are watching to see what the NLRB will do in the Crisfield situation where both labor and racial rights have been invaded.

Indeed, the National Labor Relations Act -- the law passed to protect union organizing and regulate labor disputes that affected commerce -- was only three years old at the time. And, it faced a major challenge in Crisfield Maryland. 

Part Four: A Major Victory for Workers

Having been expelled from Crisfield, CIO organizer Michael Howard went to Washington, D.C. with three strikers to meet with federal mediators, government officials and elected leaders. The United Cannery, Agricultural, Packing and Allied Workers union also filed unfair labor practice charges protesting the unlawful conduct of the packing houses. Those employers were facing pressures of their own, as watermen started selling their crabs in other towns, creating the potential of lost business going forward. 

On May 9, 1938, most of the large packing houses agreed to the workers' demands, both to restore the wage rate to $0.35 per quart and to recognize their union. Organizer Michael Howard returned to Crisfield met with representatives from eight packinghouses and negotiated a collective bargaining agreement covering the workers. The employers recognized the union and restored the wage rates. The agreement was signed on May 10, 1938, and it represented one of the first collective bargaining agreements covering seafood processing workers on the east coast. 

By 1942, the union would go on to organize oyster shuckers at several Crisfield facilities; and, by 1948, the union -- now known as Seafood Workers Local 453, would become the exclusive bargaining representative for all packinghouses in Crisfield, Maryland. Over the next four decades, from the 1950s to the 1980s, Local 453 negotiated wage increases, safer working conditions and other terms and conditions of employment for these workers. 

Part Five: In the End

My hope is that when someone looks at a crabcake, such as this Crisfield crab cake, it will lead to an understanding of the history that lies within its slightly crispy exterior and the lump meat that resides within. That history is out there for those who look for it. And, the history continues to be written each and every day. Since the 1938 strike, the crab picking industry continued on, although on a decline that corresponded with the populations of blue crabs in the bay. The demographics of the workforce changed over time, going from one that was predominantly African-American women to one today that is predominantly Latino. 

Yet, we live in a time where history is being manipulated and whitewashed. The struggles and triumphs of African-American women -- such as going on a five-week strike to obtain one of the first crab-picking collective bargaining agreements -- are being erased, especially where those struggles overcome the virulent racism of white men and women. The efforts to hide the racism result in the loss of what truly makes this country great ... the hard effort and sacrifice of its people in pursuit of a better life. 

And, on this May Day, celebrate those sacrifices and triumphs with a crabcake from the one-time Seafood Capital of the World. 

CRISFIELD CRAB CAKES

Recipe adapted from many sources in and around Crisfield

Serves 4-5

Ingredients:

• 1 pound crab meat, backfin or lump
• 12 saltine crackers, finely crushed
• 3 tablespoons mayonnaise
• 1/4 cup milk
• 1 egg, beaten
• 1 tablespoon prepared mustard
• Salt, to taste
• Pepper, to taste
• Butter
• Vegetable oil

Directions;

1. Prepare the crab mixture. In a large bowl, combine the egg, mayonnaise, mustard, milk and seasonings. Mix well. Gently fold in the crabmeat and crushed crackers. Use a light touch to avoid breaking up the large pieces of crabmeat. 

2. Prepare the crab cakes: Drop the mixture by the tablespoon onto a well greased cookie sheet. Refrigerate the cakes for at least 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. 

3. Cook the crab cakes. One option is to place a sliver of butter on top of each cake and broil for 3 minutes, moving to the bottom of the oven and baking for 15 minutes at 350 degrees Fahrenheit until golden brown. Another option is to heat the butter or oil in a heavy skillet for 3-4 minutes per side until crispy. 

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Postscript: For more about the history of the Crisfield crab pickers, including earlier strikes, check out Washington Area Spark, who provides a very detailed account of those strikes, as well as the 1938 strike.

PEACE.

Haitian Style Spicy Grilled Octopus

Octopuses can be found around the Caribbean Sea; and, as one could expect, they make their way onto the plates in restaurants and homes from Jamaica to Dominica. I recently decided to make a Caribbean-inspired octopus recipe. As I searched for a recipe to make, I came across a recipe from a Haitian blogger, food photographer and recipe developer, Annick Megie. The recipe looked like it was something I could make and the dish looked beautiful (Megie is, after all, a food photographer). 

The recipe was even simpler for me because I had purchased pre-cooked octopus. I have worked with raw octopus, and, I have a place where I could easily buy one, but the cooked version was what I had on hand when I was looking to make the recipe. If you have a pre-cooked octopus, you can skip to step 3 in the recipe below. If you don't, then you should follow steps 1 and 2 (especially the dipping the octopus first before you completely submerge it). 

In terms of white wines to use to cook the octopus, think of something that you could pair with the dish when it is ready to eat. Some easier to find wines might be an Albarino from Galicia, Spain; or a Vinho Verde from Portugal. If you are able to search a little more, perhaps a Vermentino from Sardinia, Spain; or a PicPoul de Pinet from Langudoc, France. Basically, you want a lighter, more mineral wine. The opposite of an oaked Chardonnay. (An unoaked Chardonnay would work well.)

As I researched the use of octopus in Haitian cuisine, I read an article (which I am now unable to find again), about how fishermen in the northern coastal cities (most likely Cap-Haitien, but I would like to think it included smaller cities like Labadee or Basse-Terre) would bring back octopus as part of their daily catch.  However, while most of those in the Haitian boat-fishing is done by men, there are women who catch octopus and turtles. That enables women to go beyond their traditional roles in the fishing industry, which focuses more on the processing and selling of the catch. 

Although it is not Haitian, this link will take you to a videostory, Felicia: The Life of an Octopus Fisherwoman, which tells the story of an octopus fisherwoman in Madagascar. While the film tells the story of a fisherwoman half-way around the world, there are commonalities in the life-experiences. Madagascar is one of the poorest countries in Africa, just as Haiti is the poorest country in North America and the Caribbean. Large populations live at or below the poverty line, doing the best to survive on a daily basis. They compete for resources, not just with each other, but with outsiders - like large fishing fleets - that often win the battle. The result is overfishing and environmental degradation, leaving less for the local fishermen and women to feed their families or sell at the market. The experience of Felicia may very well be the experience of women living in poverty along the coastlines of Haiti, or many other places around the world. 

A reminder that, behind a pretty plate of grilled octopus, there are people struggling just to survive. It is struggle shared by the poor around the world, from Haiti to Madagascar, from the United States to Australia.

HAITIAN STYLE SPICY GRILLED OCTOPUS

Recipe from Tchakayiti

Serves 4

Ingredients (for the broth):

• 1 medium-sized ctopus, previously cleaned
• 1 cup of white wine
• 2-3 cups of water, enough to submerge the octopus
• 3 bay leaves
• 3-5 garlic heads
• 1 teaspoon cayenne
• 1 teaspoon chile powder
• 1 teaspoon paprika
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon pepper

Ingredients (for the sauce):

• 5 shallots chopped
• 1/2 red onion, chopped
• 1 piment bouc (or scotch bonnet) chopped
• 3 limes, juiced
• Olive oil
• Fresh parsley

Directions:

1. Prepare the octopus.  In a pot, combine all of the broth ingredients. Make sure to add enough water to cover the octopus. Bring all the ingredients to a boil. Let simmer for about 10 minutes for the flavors to be infused. Dip the octopus in the water 2 or 3 times for about 10 seconds each time. This helps the tentacles curl up. Submerge the octopus completely in the broth. 

2. Cook the octopus.  Cook for about 45 minutes to 1 hour, until the octopus is tender. Be careful not to overcook it for that can have the reverse effect and make your octopus chewy. Take the octopus out of the water and cut it into small pieces. 

3. Make the sauce. In a bowl, combine the spicy sauce ingredients. Drizzle the sauce atop the cut octopus. 

4. Marinate the octopus.  Cover and let marinate in the fridge for a few hours.  

5. Finish the dish.  Fire up the grill. Grill the octopus for about 5 to 10 minutes for each side or until it is crispy on the outside. Serve immediately. 

PEACE.

Turmeric Steamed Clams with Cabbage

I have made a commitment to myself to improve what I eat. The task requires me to focus on the balance in my cooking, incorporating new ingredients, new cooking techniques and, most importantly, new cooking philosophies. All of this work will hopefully improve my diet and my health. 

This effort has broadened my search for recipes, which is being documented as part of my culinary journey in The Mindfulness Foodways. The particular focus of this journey revolves around  how food can be used as "medicine." This focus has led me to longstanding culinary teachings like Ayurveda and Yakuzen, but it has also led me to other unexpected places. 

One such place is a website that has a mental health magazine, Awai Life. The website also has a wide range of recipes, each with an objective, such as improving sleep, regaining energy or eliminating loss of concentration. One recipe -- Turmeric Steamed Clams with Cabbage -- has the goal of relieving tension. Given the amount of stress and tension that I have in my work life, I thought it was a good idea to try this recipe. 

This recipe also represents a particular challenge for me. I am not a big fan of cabbage, and that is due to the taste of the vegetable. Over the course of my life, I only ate cabbage I was served cole slaw. Perhaps it was the vinegar dressing (that is the type of cole slaw that I prefer) or the celery seeds. Both of which can mask the flavor of cabbage. Yet, this recipe puts cabbage along side the clams. The use of turmeric adds flavor, but it is more of an earthy flavor rather than a tart or bitter flavor. The combination of turmeric and cabbage is not the same as vinegar/celery seeds and cabbage. 

Nevertheless, I made this dish and ate it, including the cabbage (although admittedly not all of it). This effort represented a first step forward to using cabbage, more specifically Napa cabbage, in my cooking. Time till tell how the journey will progress. 

TURMERIC STEAMED CLAMS WITH CABBAGE

Recipe from Awai

Serves 2

Ingredients:

• 1/2 pound of littleneck clams
• 1/2 pound of cabbage
• 1 tablespoon cilantro/coriander
• 1/2 teaspoon turmeric
• 4 tablespoons white wine
• 1 teaspoon butter

Directions:

1.  Prepare the clams. Wash the clams and place them in a tray. Add enough salt water to cover them (similar salt concentration to seawater, roughly 1 tablespoon of salt per 2 cups of water), cover with a dish towel, and leave in a cool dark place for 2-3 hours to remove the sand. Cut the coriander and coriander into bite-sized pieces.

2. Steam the cabbage. Place the cabbage in a heat-resistant container and place it in a steamer with the steam rising. Cover and steam for 5-6 minutes. Add the clams, along wtih the turmeric and white wine to a small pot, cover and steam for about 3 minutes. Remove the clams to a tray as they open, add butter to the broth and simmer for 1-2 minutes. 

3. Finish the dish. Return the clams to the cabbage, pour the broth over them and top with the coriander.

PEACE.

Akotonshi

Living in the Chesapeake Bay region, I often find myself having a parochial view about blue crabs. I know that blue crabs can be found around the world (see my post about their invasion of Italian waters), but I admittedly think very regionally about blue crabs when it comes to cooking. Bury them in Old Bay or XO and steam them. The only true crabcakes are Maryland crabcakes. It becomes ingrained in a person the longer they live in the area.

Yet, there is so much more to blue crab dishes. I previously posted about a crab dish from Ghana -- Ghanian Crab Stew -- but I spent more time talking about rice than I did blue crab. As it turns out, the crusteacean has quite the place in Ghanaian cuisine and culture. So, it seems appropriate to return to Ghana when I was looking to prepare a crab dish based upon a cuisine far beyond the waters of the Chesapeake Bay. My efforts would take me to the brackish waters in southern Ghana, such as the estuary of the Volta River, where the river waters meet the Atlantic Ocean, and the various lagoons that are parallel to that ocean.

At one point in time, there was an abundance of blue crabs, shrimp, shellfish, and fin fish in these brackish waters. These populations benefitted from mangroves, which sprouted up in various areas along the lagoons and deltas, and which provide protected areas for crabs, shellfish and fish. They also supported fisheries across southern Ghana. Those fisheries, in turn, provided incomes that sustained families from Agbletokwei to Kpotitsekopre. 

However, those fisheries have faced a range of issues in recent years. Much of the mangroves have been cut down, causing a loss of habitat for crustaceans like the blue crab. Overfishing generally, and the rise of industrial fishing and illegal fishing, have also contributed to the loss of populations, as has the increased amount of pollution from industrialization. As the populations of crab, shrimp and fish decline, so does the ability of small-scale fishermen and women to make a living and provide for their families. 

There have been efforts to try to support small scale, local fishing. For example, back in 2021, the U.S. Agency for International Development provided millions to help restore Ghanian fisheries. That program focused on sardines, mackerel and anchovies, which meant more of a focus on the Atlantic Ocean (which is still needed), than the brackish coastal waters. (The current Trump administration is trying to destroy USAID, depriving the entire world -- including the U.S. -- of the benefits from international development assistance.) More recently, in July 2025, the Ghanian government passed the Fisheries and Aquaculture Law, which helps protect small scale fishers who use traditional canoes from illegal fishing vessels. This law is also focused on the ocean, rather than the lagoons and rivers of the country. 

I hope that a more wholistic approach may be pursued, one that recognizes the interconnectedness of the rivers, lagoons and oceans, thereby addressing all of it. This effort would also require a focus not only on the water, but also the land, such as restoring the mangroves and the habitats for aquatic species, which is happening in certain parts of Ghana, like in the Keta Lagoon. These efforts have seen positive results, For an overview of what is being done in that lagoon, check out this video from Terraformation:

We have the power to undo the damage we have done, but it takes commitment and, most importantly, time.  With more mangroves come more aquatic species, like blue crabs. And, with more blue crabs come dishes like Akotonshi.

AKONTOSHI

Recipe adapted from African Food Network

Serves 4

Ingredients:

• 8 whole crabs or 1 pound of cooked crab meat
• 2 large fresh ginger pieces
• 2 cloves
• 4 tablespoons cooking oil
• 2 large onions, minced
• 2 teaspoons ground ginger
• 3-4 large tomatoes, finely chopped
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 2 large green bell peppers, finely chopped
• 2 teaspoons paprika
• 2 teaspoons ground cumin
• 2 teaspoons ground nutmeg
• 2 teaspoons dried thyme leaves
• 2 teaspoons grains of paradise, growned to a powder (optiona0l)
• 4 medium minced African bird peppers (or hot Thai peppers)
• 1/2 to 2/3 cup dried shrimp
• Plain bread crumbs
• Parsley
• Salt 

Directions:

1. Prepare the crabs or crab meat. If cooking whole crabs, clean them and bring a large pot of water to a bowl. Add the ginbger cloves and crab and cook for 15 minutes. Remvoe crabs and meat, keep shells for plating. If using crab meat, mix crab meat with 1/4 cup of water that has been boiled with ginger piece and cloves for 15 minutes.  Drain the water, flake the meat and set aside.

2. Saute the onions, tomatoes and spices. In a heavy pot, heat the oil to medium and add the other ingredients in the following sequence, stirring for a minute for so between each ingredient: onions, ground ginger, tomatoes, tomato paste, green pepper, cumin, nutmeg, thyme, grains of paradise (if using), paprika, masked peppers and dried shrump. Reduce heat and simmer for about 4-5 minutes, stirting constantly until vegetables are cooked.

3. Add the crab meat. Then add the crab meat and stir for another couple of minutes to heat it through. 

4. Finish the dish. Remove from heat, and spoon the crab mixture into the crab shells or ramekins if you began with crab meat. Sprinkle breadcrumbs on top of each serving and toast under an oven broiler for a couple of minutes. Be careful not to let the crumbs scorch. Garnish with chopped parsley and serve immediately. 

PEACE.

Around the World in 80 Dishes: South Africa

I have gotten to where I am in life not because of something I brought to the world but through something I found - the wealth of African culture. 

-- Hugh Masakela 

When reading these words, they sound like the notes emanating from the trump of the famous South African jazz musician. "The Father of South African jazz, Masakela was known for his anti-apartheid songs, such as Soweto Blues and Bring Him Back Home." His music encouraged and inspired South Africans in their struggle to end the racist system of apartheid. That struggle eventually prevailed on May 4, 1990, when an agreement was reached to establish a democratic government -- of all the people and by all of the people -- by 1994. And, in that year, South Africa held its first fully democratic election, in which the Rainbow Nation (a term originated with Archbishop Desmond Tutu) elected Nelson Mandela as its first black President.

South Africa has always interested me, as it represents one of the best examples of how a diverse people can tear down a racist system and replace it with one based on equality and freedom. To be sure, South Africa has its issues, particularly economic issues which have perpetuated and, in some respects, worsened the economic divides amongst its people. But, there is a wealth of South African culture, one that transcends dollars and cents, or Rands. One that is truly invaluable.

My Around the World in 80 Dishes challenge invites me to learn more about this wealth. The Rainbow Nation, South Africa, is truly a diverse one, as evidenced by the fact that it has eleven official languages (Afrikaans, English, Ndebele, Sepedi, Sesotho, Setswana, siSwati, Tshivenda, Xhosa, Xitsonga and Zulu). This diversity presents a lot of potential dishes for a main course. There are, of course, many dishes from the various African nations who live in South Africa, along with dishes from other significant ethnic groups, such as curry dishes from India and Malaysia, who were brought or made their way during the colonial period. And, there are, of course, the dishes of the colonizers themselves, such as the English and the Afrikaans. There are so many options that it took a very long time to decide. And, in the end, the decision was made not by myself but, interestingly enough, by Chef Gordon Ramsay. 

While I was preparing a meal one afternoon, I happened to have Gordon Ramsay: Uncharted on the television in the background. The show chronicles Chef Ramsay's travels to various parts of the world, where he spends a week learning about the people, their culture, and their food, all tied together by a challenge to prepare a meal at the end. This particular episode followed Chef Ramsay as he learned about South African cuisine in the KwaZulu-Natal province, with a particular emphasis on the Zulu cuisine, but a recognition of other influences. He prepared a whole fish on the braai, learned how to make Ushatini and Chakalaka, and discovered the importance of pelepele or piri piri. 

Ramsay's adventures provided a roadmap for this particular challenge. I am going to make the principal dishes from that Uncharted show: whole fish on the Braai, which will satisfy the challenge, along with the sides of ushatini and chakalaka. I will even make pelepele (or peri peri).   

MAIN DISH

For the culinary challenge, I prepared a whole fish for the braai. Gordon Ramsay's preparation of this dish was very simple, basically just some salt on the fish before placing it on the grill. My recipe involves a little more preparation and ingredients. 

WHOLE FISH ON THE BRAAI

Recipe from Fish Wife

Serves 2

Ingredients:

• 1 whole fish (such as Red Roman, red snapper)
• 1 red onion
• 1 handful of cilantro
• 2 teaspoon minced garlic
• 1 teaspoon minced chiles
• 2 teaspoons grated ginger
• 1/2 cup soy sauce
• 1 lemon

Directions:

1. Prepare the fish. Score both sides of the fish.  Chop the red onion and the cilantro and stuff into the cavity of the fish. Grate some lemon rind and add to the cavity. Mix together the garlic, chiles, ginger and soy sauce. Spread one-half of the sauce over both sides of the fish. Keep the remaining half for basting the fish. Place the fish on a fish basket that can be flipped.

2. Grill the fish. Heat a charcoal or gas grill over high heat. Cook the fish over the heat for 20 to 25 minutes, flipping over 3 to 5 minutes. Using a basting brush, paint the fish with the marinade with every flip. When the fish is done, remove from the heat and allow to rest for a few minutes. 

SIDE DISH

Chakalaka is a South African side dish that is often served with the braai. Its origins lie in the townships around Johnannesberg, where Mozambican mineworkers lived and worked. These mineworkers would combine tinned food, like beans and tomatoes, with chiles to create a dish that they could eat with pap (porridge). Chakalaka represents an effort to take something that was brought to the region by colonialists (tinned food) and making it into something indigenous. 

CHAKALAKA

Recipe from Cooking Channel

Serves 4

Ingredients:

• 3 tablespoons oil
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 2 green Thai Bird's eye chiles, seeded and chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed
• 2 ounces ginger, finely grated
• 2 tablespoons mild curry powder
• 1 green bell pepper, finely chopped
• 1 yellow bell pepper, finely chopped
• 1 red bell pepper, finely chopped
• 5 large carrots, scrubbed, topped, tailed and grated
• 14 ounces canned chopped tomatoes
• 12 ounces tomato paste
• 14 ounces canned baked beans
• 2 sprigs fresh thyme
• Salt
• Freshly ground black pepper 

Directions:

1. Saute ingredients. Heat the oil in a pan and fry the onions until soft and translucent. Add the chiles, garlic and half of the ginger (reserve the other half to add right at the end). Add the curry powder and stir to combine. Add the bell peppers and cook for another two minutes. Add the carrots and stir to make sure they are well combined with the other ingredients and coated in the curry powder. Add in the tomatoes and tomato paste and stir. Cook until the mixture is well combined and slightly thickened, about 5 to 10 minutes. 

2. Finish the dish. Remove from the heat and add the baked beans, thyme and remaining ginger. Stir to combine; season with salt and pepper. Serve hot or cold. 

RELISH

Ushatini is a South African version of a salad or relish that I have seen around the world. In the Americas, it resembles salsa or pico de gallo, with tomatoes, onions and chiles. In the Middle East, it is halfway to a salad e-shirazi (all it needs is cucumbers). Yet, ushatini is South African with its use of the piri-piri chiles (or, in my case, Thai green chiles). It is a great accompaniment to the Braai, as it should be spooned over the grilled meat or seafood.  

USHATINI

Recipe from Cookpad

Ingredients:

• 1 red onion, diced
• 2 big tomatoes, diced
• 3 chiles, minced
• Vinegar, to taste
• Salt, to taste 

Directions:

Combine all of the ingredients in a bowl and mix well. 

CONDIMENT

The final part of the Around the World in 80 Dishes challenge involves the preparation of peri-peri sauce, or what was referred to in Uncharted as "pele pele" sauce. This condiment was made possible by the Portuguese, who brought chiles to South Africa (as they did around the world), which served as the basis for the sauce. This is a very spicy sauce given the types of chiles used. 

SOUTH AFRICAN PERI PERI

Recipe from African Bites

Ingredients:

• 10 hot chiles (habanero, scotch bonnet or Thai chiles)
• 1 medium onion
• 4 cloves garlic
• 2 tablespoons bouillon powder or Maggi cubes
• 2 basil leaves
• 2 tablespoons parsley
• 1-3 roma tomatoes
• 1/2 to 1 cup vegetable oil
• Salt
• Freshly ground black pepper 

Directions:

1. Prepare the sauce. Coarsely chop the tomatoes and onions and discard the pepper stems. Then puree the tomatoes, onions, garlic, pepper, parsley, basil, and bouillon powder in a food processor with as much oil as needed to make a thick-ish puree. 

2. "Cook" the sauce. Pour the pepper mixture into a small saucepan, bring to a boil, reduce heat, and slowly simmer for about 15 minutes, stirring frequently to prevent burning. Adjust seasoning with salts.

 3. Finish the dish. Let it cool, pour into a mason jar or a container with a lid, and store it in a fridge for up to a week. For the pepper sauce to last longer, fully cover it with oil. 

*     *     *

In the end, I think these dishes turned out well, even if they may not have reached the standards of either Gordon Ramsey or his hosts when he visited South Africa. The dishes enabled me to participate in an endeavor to learn more about South African cuisine, especially the dishes of the indigenous peoples. This challenge was a success and motivates me to my next one. Stay tuned for more....

PEACE.

Antebellum Fried Oysters

Oysters have a peculiar place in our historical foodways. Once plentiful across the Chesapeake Bay, as well as both seaboards and the Gulf of Mexico, their abundance enabled the bivalve to become a food item that was available to everyone. And, for some, especially the enslaved Africans who worked on plantations up and down the Chesapeake Bay during Antebellum times, the oyster was an important staple of their meager diet.

Most slave owners provided little more than a monthly or periodic allotment of cornmeal, salt, and poor-quality meat. For example, George Washington provided his slaves who worked at Mount Vernon with "1 quart of cornmeal and 5-8 ounces of salted fish (usually shad or herring)."  It was just enough, in the eyes of owners like Washington, to sustain the slaves. "[A]s much as they can eat without waste and nothing more," in the words of the General and former President. From the slaves' perspective, it was not enough to survive. This led slaves to search for food that would supplement their diets, ending with whatever they could find or catch. 

Oysters were an important part of this supplement. As Frederick Douglass once wrote, the enslaved at the Wye House (which was a plantation on Maryland's eastern shore), the enslaved African-Americans gathered oysters to "make up the deficiency of their scanty allowance of food." The collection of oysters from local waterways is a practice that can be traced across the Atlantic Ocean. A reknowned historian and chef, Michael Twitty, saw the parallels between Virginia and Senegal. While walking through the Kermel Market in Dakar, Senegal's capital, Twitty noticed the "blue-hued crabs, the fish that resembled shad or rockfish, and the shallow troughs filled with oysters," which "transport[ed his] mind to the Chesapeake and its tributaries." It was common practice in Senegambia (the combination of present day Senegal and The Gambia) for families to collect crabs and oysters, along with other crustaceans and shellfish, from the brackish waters along the Gambia river. 

When Africans were forcibly brought to the new world as slaves, they brought this collective knowledge about oystering with them. Slaves could have gone out at low tides and collected oysters from reefs close to the shore. Slaves worked on oyster vessels, plying the waters of the bay and tonging for oysters. As an aside, slaves who worked on these vessels were some of the first to be emancipated, long before President Lincoln gave his address at Gettysburg, through the issuance of Seaman Protection Certificates (as early as 1797) that defined the holder of such a certificate as a U.S. citizen. Indeed, Frederick Douglass escaped from slavery posing as a seaman, borrowing a certificate from another African-American. 

Back at their quarters on the planation, enslaved African-Americans often ate oysters right out of the shell. Cooks would also prepare oysters using what little they had on hand, such as that cornmeal and whatever cooking oil or lard they could find. This recipe seeks to recreate a very basic preparation of fried oysters that could have been prepared by slaves in their cabins for their families. No fancy mignonettes, no special preparations. Just oysters, cornmeal and cooking oil. 

I prepared this recipe, as well as this post, because I deeply believe that we need to learn and understand all of our history, both the good and the bad, especially the bad. If we do not fully understand and come to grips with what our country has done, then we can never truly improve our country or even come close to the ideals upon which it was founded. Moreover, the current administration is trying to wipe away all of the progress that we have made over the past fifty years. The President is using his administration and the government to coercively substitute our history with others' propaganda, whitewashing what our country did to millions of its citizens by diverting their attention toward a false beacon of hope. We should be acknowledging the transgressions of our past, learning from those mistakes as we build a better future for every person in this country. That is what fuels me during each and every day in my actual job. It now fuels me each and every moment of my free time when I work on my blog, as embodied in my personal version of Federal Project Number One.  

ANTEBELLUM FRIED OYSTERS

Recipe adapted from multiple sources

Serves 4

Ingredients:

• 1 pint of shucked oysters or about 24 oysters shucked, liquor reserved
• 1 cup of corn meal, more if needed
• Sea salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup cooking oil, butter or animal lard

Directions:

1.  Prepare the oysters. Pour the cornmeal in a bowl. If you are using a pint of oysters drain the oysters through a finsh mesh sieve or cheesecloth and reserve the liquor in a bowl. Return the oysters to the bowl with the liquor. Take an oyster and roll it in the cornmeal until covered, set aside. Repeat with the remaining oysters.

2. Fry the oysters. Heat the oil, butter or lard in a pan over medium high heat. Add a few oysters at a time, making sure not to overcrowd the oysters. Cook the oysters for 2-3 minutes until they begin to brown and then turn. Brown the other side for 1-2 minutes. Remove and set aside on a plate lined with a paper towel. Repeat with the remaining oysters. Once all oysters have been cooked, serve immediately.

*     *     * 

Postscript: As to the ingredient itself, I wanted to ensure that I used oysters from the Chesapeake Bay, not from somewhere else (such as along the shores of the Gulf of Mexico). While vacationing in the eastern shore of Virginia, I purchased a pint of pre-shucked oysters from the Great Machipongo Clam Shack, which is an amazing restaurant located on Route 13 in the eastern shore of Virginia. The oysters came from H.M. Terry Company, an established oyster farmer that has been operating in Willis Wharf, Virginia since 1903. The oysters were Sewansecotts, which are a briny bivalve cultivated by H.M. Terry in the waters near Hog Island, Virginia.  

PEACE.

Edith Dyson's Crab Cakes

"The government killed my grandmother and grandfather when they took that land from them." 

-- Edith Dyson

Almost every recipe comes with a story. Sometimes that story involves the dish itself, or its ingredients. However, every once in a while the story may be part of a larger history lesson. That history will often fade, like the printing on a page, unless there are people who are able and willing to tell it. Recently, I came across the work of someone - Kara Mae Harris - who strives to tell not just the history of recipes in Maryland, but about the people who make them. I came across her blog, Old Line Plate, during a search for historic Maryland crab cake recipes. That is when I was introduced to crabcake recipe of Edith Dyson, which was originally printed in 300 Years of Black Cooking in St. Mary's County Maryland. The recipe was also reproduced by Harris on her blog, with the story, and history, of Edith Dyson and her family.  

John and Louise Dyson
(Source: Library of Congress)

The story actually begins with John Dyson, who was born into slavery in approximately 1860. (Maryland abolished slavery in 1864.) That fact comes from notes that accompany photos of Mr. Dyson taken in 1940. The notes read, "he was born into slavery over 80 years ago." By the time the photos were taken, Dyson was at least 80 years old and married to his wife, Louise Dyson. According to census records, the Dysons also had at least two children, although the records have inconsistencies. 

The photos were taken by John Vachon, a photographer who  worked for the Farm Security Administration ("FSA") from 1940 until 1942. The FSA was an agency born from the New Deal in 1937 (as a successor to the Resettlement Agency). The FSA had a mission to help poor farmers, sharecroppers, tenant farmers and migrant workers by providing loans for land, equipment and livestock. The FSA also provided training and health insurance.

From the documentary evidence, John Dyson had a home and property; and, he also participated in the FSA's loan program. It is unclear what loan he received and how he used it. However, this is where John Vachon and the FSA may shed some more light. The timeless legacy of the FSA is not its loans, but the photography project that Vachon was a part of. The FSA employed Vachon and others for their photography skills, seeking to document the lives of poor rural farmers and sharecroppers. 

Vachon took numerous other pictures of John and Louise Dyson. Many of those pictures appear to involve John Dyson surrounded by pear trees, picking their fruit. For example:

John Dyson picking pears (Source: Library of Congress)

By his 80s, Mr. Dyson was living with his wife in a house in what was known as Fordtown. Perhaps by that time, he may have been a farmer cultivating pears from trees around his house. 

Edith Dyson in the kitchen
(Source: Library of Congress)

However, according to his granddaughter, Edith Dyson, Mr. Dyson originally made his living from the water, not the land. As she recounted, "my grandfather worked the water. There were hotels and families that bought fish from him. These fish were caught on a hook and line; they they were not caught on rod and reels." Having worked the water in St. Mary's County, John Dyson would have been familiar with more than fish. He would have also known about blue crabs. And, while there is much less known about Louise Dyson, John Vachon does provide some visual history in the form of a picture of Louise in the kitchen of her home. 

I would like to think that, at some point, that either Mr. Dyson or Mrs. Dyson prepared crabs in some fashion in the kitchen. It would provide a narrative that could explain why  their grand-child, Edith Dyson, offered up a crab cake recipe nearly thirty years later for a cookbook about African American cooking in St. Mary's County.  This part of the story will most likely be left to conjecture. While Edith gave an oral history about her grandfather and his farm, which is noted in Kara Mae's research, I have been unable to located that audio.

But, I was able to determine what happened to Mr. Dyson's farm. The community of Fordtown, along with Pearson and Jonestown, were seized by the Federal government through eminent domain in 1942. As one homeowner, Webster Bell recounted, "It was in March, a cold, windy day. My wife heard this banging outside and she went to the door and looked out and here was this man, driving a great big 20-penny nail through this stack of papers that looked like a Sears Roebuck catalog." That stack of papers was an eviction notice. The residents -- including the Dysons -- who lived in these small African-American towns, in an area that was then called Cedar Point, were forcibly evicted from their homes. They received money for their land, but, for many (and most likely for Mr. Dyson), it was not a lot. They lost their land and their communities. What was Cedar Point would become known as Naval Air Station Patuxent River. And that all happened roughly two years after the pictures above were taken.

Not every story has a happy ending. Many stories about our country lack that happily-ever-after. We should never delude ourselves into thinking that our past was great. It alway makes me think about the Woody Guthrie quote, "I don't care how good the good old days were for you. They were not good enough for me." Or for those African Americans who lived in Fordtown, Jonestown or Pearson. This crab cake recipe offers a history lesson about entire communities that no longer exist. 

EDITH DYSON'S CRAB CAKES

Recipe (and much of the research) from Kara Mae Harris at Old Line Plate

Serves 4

Ingredients:

• Onion, finely chopped
• Green pepper, finely chopped
• Peanut oil
• Prepared mustard
• 1 egg
• 1/2 cup mayonnaise or an additional egg
• Cracker meal
• 1 pound of crab meat
• Breadcrumbs
• Worcestershire sauce
• Salt
• Cayenne Pepper
• Black pepper
• Seafood seasoning

Directions:

Use the above ingredietns according to your tastes and needs. Saute the oinion, green pepper, red pepper (cayenne), salt and seafood seasoning in oil. Do not brown. Beat the eggs and/or maynnaise. Add the sauteed ingredients, worchestershire, salt, pepper and mustard. Gently fold in breadcrumbs and crab meat to mix. Make into cakes or patties. Roll in cracker meal and fry in vegetable or peanut oil until browned.

*     *     *

Postscript: One additiona note provided by the research of Kara Mae Harris. Edith Dyson recounted a visit with her grandparents after they were forced to relocate to New Jersey. As she recounted, "my grandfather was sitting on the porch and I will never forget it: he was playing his accordion, he was playing 'Look Down that Lonesome Road.' and that is a very sad song. I said, 'Grandfather, don't play that song, don't play that song. You know, play something, say something, let's dance it off. But there was no pleasure in him, everything was gone. There was nothing you could bring up to him that wouldn't bring back St. Mary's County. And we never, we never wanted to remind him of St. Mary's County." 

John Dyson playing his accordion for Louise Dyson (Source: Library of Congress)

PEACE.