Wojape (Wozapi)

If you could make your food taste exactly like the place where you are physically standing, then you can really evoke the flavor profile that resonates through history. This way of thinking provides a direct connection that we have as indigenous people to our ancestors and to the flavors of their foods, because those flavors have not changed.

-Sean Sherman, quoted in Cornell Chronicle

Quotes have an inherent force, a persuasiveness that brings an important point to the forefront so that it could be considered more fully and understood better. Yet, even quotes require a dive into the context surrounding the words, and, when it comes to the foodways of the indigenous peoples of Turtle Island, understanding that context is critical.

Growing up in the Midwest, I learned very little about the indigenous peoples of North America. I write "very little" for a reason. To be sure, indigenous people were mentioned in my U.S. history books. However, the books told that history from the perspective of rich white men, not indigenous men and women. There was very little, if anything, from the perspective of those whose ancestors had lived on this continent for generations.

Fortunately, I found a hobby in cooking, which provides me with an opportunity to learn. I use these chances to educate myself, not just about how to prepare food, but also about the peoples, cultures and history behind the ingredients, cooking processes and dishes. I use this blog to record some of my thoughts and some of what I have learned after making the dishes.

One area that I wanted to further explore involves indigenous cooking throughout North America. The desire to learn about this particular aspect of cooking, as well as the underlying cultures and peoples, really took hold during a visit to  Minneapolis, Minnesota. I was there for work, but I found a restaurant near my hotel that sparked my interest. The restaurant is Owamni, which is run by Chef Sean Sherman. An Oglala Lakota, born in Pine Ridge, South Dakota, Chef Sherman has made it his life's work to educate everyone about indigenous cuisine, as the native Americans would have prepared it (that is, without "colonizer ingredients," such as wheat, beef, pork, etc.). My meal that I had at Owamni was one of the best meals that I had ever had in a restaurant (you can read my restaurant review here).

Since that time, I have wanted to explore indigenous cuisine. The first steps took place on Indigenous People's Day, when I decided to make Wojape or, as it translates in Lakota, "fruit stew. It is a native berry sauce made by indigenous peoples, including the Lakota and Dakota. They traditionally prepared the sauce with canpa'-hu, or, as we would call them chokecherries or bittercherries.  The chokecherry plant is part of the rose family, and it can be found throughout much of the United States and most of Canada. Its white flowers bloom in May, and, then give way to small, rather tart berries in July and August. When the berries are ripe, they are picked for use in a wide range of foods, one of the most common being pemmican, which is a combination of dried meat, fat and, of course, berries. A foodstuff necessary for survival in the northern Plains, especially during the long winter months.

Yet, the Lakota and Dakota also used chokecherries to make wojape. The traditional recipe calls for a combination of cooked chokeberries, pounded raw berries and ground root powder. The result is something that has the consistency of a pudding. As with pemmican, there was a purpose to the pudding. It transformed the berries into something that could last longer than a simple berry sauce.  

As much as I wanted to make a traditional Wojape, I faced a couple of obstacles. First, as common as chokecherries may be, I don't have a ready access to them. Chokecherries are not in my local grocery stores and I don't have the time to go foraging for them. Second, I have even less access to the root powder or root flour that would be used to make the dish. I did not want my start on this indigenous cooking exploration to begin with the use of corn starch or wheat flour. That would seem to be the wrong course to take.

Fortunately, I have a recipe that was developed by Chef Sean Sherman. The recipe comes from Chef Sherman's The Sioux Chef's Indigenous Kitchen cookbook. He provides a recipe that incorporates readily available substitutes, such as blackberries, blueberries and raspberries. His recipe also does not use root powder, but substitutes maple syrup or honey, which provides some slight thickening and more sweetness to the final dish. In the end, I was able to make Wojape; and, in a nod to indigenous cuisine, I served it over a roasted, sliced bison loin. 

WOJAPE (WOZAPI)

Recipe from Sean Sherman, The Sioux Chef's Indigenous Kitchen, pg. 173

Makes 4 to 6 cups

Ingredients:

• 6 cups of fresh berries (chokeberries or a mix of blueberries, raspberries, strawberries, elderberries, cranberries, blackberries)
• 1 to 1/2 cups water
• Honey or maple syrup, to taste

Directions:

Put the berries and water into a saucepan and set over low heat.  Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally until the mixture is thick. Taste and season with honey or maple syrup as desired.

ENJOY!

Strawberries in Madeira and Cream

"Arcadian Dainties." According to David DeWitt, who wrote Founding Foodies, that is the name given by Thomas Jefferson to a recipe of Strawberries in Madeira and Cream.  DeWitt cites a source who noted that, in the late eighteenth century, cultivated strawberries were one of the fruits cultivated at the gardens of Monticello.

Strawberries were not the only thing that "abounded" at Monticello.  If the fields may have been full of strawberries, the wine cellar was stocked with Madeira, a fortified wine produced in the Madeira Islands of Portugal.  Traditionally, the wine was made with Sercial, Verdelho, Bual and Malvasia grapes, although other grapes were introduced into the production over time.  During the late eighteenth century, Madeira had become the wine of the new United States. It is reported that Madeira was used to toast the Declaration of Independence, and that many of the "Founding Fathers," such as George Washington, John Adams, Benjamin Franklin, and, of course, Thomas Jefferson, were enthusiasts of the wine.

However, it is a "Founding Mother" who is entitled to the credit for this recipe.  According to DeWitt, in his book Founding Foodies, Abigail Adams wrote in 1798: [a]fter walking in the garden we returned and found the table spread with 6 or 8 quarts of large ... strawberry, gathered from the vines with a proportional quantity of cream, wine, and sugar.  This quote is the recipe for Strawberries in Madeira and Cream, which served as the dessert for our wine club dinner. 

STRAWBERRIES IN MADEIRA & CREAM

Recipe from Dave DeWitt, Founding Foodies at p. 205

Serves 4

Ingredients:

4 cups fresh strawberries, sliced
2 cups Madeira
Confectioners' sugar for sprinkling
1 1/2 cups heavy cream, whipped

Directions:

1.  Prepare the strawberries.  In a bowl, combine the strawberries with the Maderia, and mix well.  Marinate for two hours.  Drain the strawberries and place in 4 bowls.  

2.  Finish the dish.  Sprinkle sugar lightly over the strawberries, and top with a dollow of whipped cream.

ENJOY!

Angeli della Fragola

Strawberry Angels.... Or, more appropriately, Strawberry Shortcake Angels. This is my first creation. Inspired by my Angel (you know who you are). I prepared this as a dessert for Christmas. Of course, this dessert can be made for any occasion.

This is a very simple recipe - premade shortcakes, fresh strawberries, fresh mint, and whipped cream. Yet, there is a lot that can be done to tweak the recipe. For instance, vanilla beans and lemon can be used to provide contrast to the other flavors.

I'm still experimenting with this recipe, which is my own creation. That's right, this is something new. There are three layers - one premade and two to be made. The shortcake shells are available at any grocery store. The filling in the shortcake shell consists of diced strawberries, and the scrapings from vanilla beans. The topping is a whipped cream, which gives the appearance of clouds. Strawberries act as the angels and fresh mint represent their wings. After I made this recipe, I thought of using lemon zest to create halos. That will be for the next time.

ANGELI DELLA FRAGOLA

A Chef Bolek Original
Serves 4-6

2 pints of fresh strawberries

2 vanilla beans

2-3 tablespoons of strawberry jam

whipped cream

fresh mint

pre-made shortcake shells

Select the largest fresh strawberries and set aside, as those strawberries will be the angels. Take the remaining strawberries and dice them. Take the vanilla beans, scrape the vanilla and add it to the diced strawberries. Also add some chopped mint. Then, add the strawberry jam to the mix all of these ingredients.

Take a spoonful of the strawberry mixture and place it in each shortcake shell. Once all the shortcake shells are filled, take a spoonful of whipped cream and place it on top of the strawberry mixture. Try to place the cream in a manner that replicates clouds.

Once the whipped cream is added to all of the shortcake shells, take the large strawberries and slice them in half (to make it easier to eat them). Place the two halfs together in a shell, using the cream to hold the strawberry halves together. Then take two good size mint leaves and anchor them in the whipped cream. Repeat with each shortcake shell.

ENJOY!