Kashmiri-Style Raan

Many recipes have a history; and, for this leg of lamb recipe, that history can be traced to the fourth century B.C.E.  Alexander III of Macedon -- known as "Alexander the Great" -- was leading his armies on a path eastward into what was known then as Bactria. The region was well established along the Silk Road in an area that is divided amongst common-day Afghanistan, Pakistan and Tajikistan. While history confirms Alexander's conquest of the mountainous region in which Bactria could be found, what comes next is the subject of some dispute.

As one story goes, it was 327 B.C.E. when Alexander the Great had just conquered the Hindu Kush, a mountainous region that could have been the southern part of Bactria. Basking in the victory, Alexander married Roxane, the daughter of Oxyartes. The centerpiece of the wedding feast was known as Sikandari Raan or Alexander Raan. Alexander would go on to appoint Oxyartes to serve as the governor of Bactria.

Another story paints a different picture: Alexander the Great sent his army into the Battle of Hydaspes in 326 B.C.E. The battle took place along the Jhelum River in what would become northeastern Pakistan. By the end of the battle, Alexander's forces had captured the local king, Porus. Alexander asked Porus how he would like to be treated; and, the defeated monarch replied "treat me like a King would treat another King." Alexander the Great released Porus and the two became friends. A feast was held to celebrate the friendship. The centerpiece of that feast was a leg of lamb.

The true story, along with the recipe for that leg of lamb, are lost to history. Nevertheless, the centerpiece of the feast is still known as Sikandari Raan. And, unlike any conqueror or king, this leg of lamb recipe lives on today as the focal point of many celebratory meals. 

I prepared raan for my own little celebration, namely, by birthday. I chose to prepare a Kashmiri-style raan, because I thought that this meal is reflective of Kashmiri cuisine. This cuisine is perhaps the most meat-centric of all the subcontinent cuisines, as Kashmiris eat more meat -- mainly lamb and mutton -- than in any other region of Pakistan or India. This aspect of their diet corresponds to the importance of livestock itself, as there is a long history of nomadic herders raising sheep in the region's valleys. While Kashmiri cuisine may be heavy on the meat, it is much leaner when it comes to the use of spices in recipes.  Commonly used spices include chile powder, ginger powder, saffron, aniseed, and asafetida.  

Perhaps the most intriguing aspect of Kashmiri cuisine is the distinction between Muslim and Pandit (Hindu). This distinction mostly revolves around the ingredients used to prepare the dishes. On the one hand, Muslim Kashmiris use onion, garlic and tomatoes in their preparations, while the Hindu Pandits do not. Another difference lies with the protein, as Muslims tend to use more lamb and mutton, while the Pandits use goat or chevron more in their dishes. 

This Kashmiri-style raan is clearly inspired by the Muslim preparations, as it incorporates not only lamb, but also onions in the recipe. It also follows the traditional preparation, which incorporates two marinades. The first marinade is a dry rub, which is first applied to the leg of lamb. The second marinade is a wet rub, a combination of Greek yogurt and even more spices). Some recipes combine the two marinades together, but the Kashmiri-style raan recipe that I found retained this two-step approach.

Apart from the time it takes to prepare the lamb, this is a very easy recipe to make. The difficult part is to decide what should accompany the roasted lamb. I prepared a traditional Kashmiri pulao, and I even had an ambitious goal of preparing one or two sambals to go with it. (The sambals did not happen.) One can also just serve some naan and a salad alongside the lamb. 

KASHMIRI-STYLE RAAN

Recipe adapted from from Big Oven

Serves several

Ingredients (for the dry rub):

• 10 green cardamom pods (seeds only)
• 1 star anise
• 2 mace 
• 4 dried bay leaves
• 2 tablespoons fennel seeds
• 2 inch cinnamon stick

Ingredients (for the marinade):

• 1 1/4 white onions, thinly sliced
• 7 garlic cloves mashed or roughly chopped
• 1 1/2 teaspoon Kashmiri chile powder
• 2 inches of ginger, peeled, roughly chopped
• 1 1/2 cup Greek Yogurt
• 1/2 teaspoon saffron
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon turmeric
• 1 tablespoon honey

Ingredients (for the lamb):

• 1 leg of lamb (about five pounds)

Ingredients (for the gravy):

• 5 garlic cloves
• 1 inch ginger
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1/2 teaspoon cumin powder
• 1 tablespoon coriander powder
• 12 teaspoon Kashmiri chile powder
• 1 teaspoon cardamom powder
• 3 tablespoons Greek yogurt
• 2 tablespoons ground almonds
• Salt to taste

Directions:

1. Prepare the lamb and the first marinade. Trim all of the fact from the lamb and, using a sharp knife. Roast the dry rub spices in a dry frying pan over a low heat for about 10 minutes. Shake the pan a few times as they release their aroma. Cool slightly and grind to a fine powder. Rub this spiced powder all of over the leg of lamb, in the cuts as well. Leave to marinate for 40 minutes while you get the second marinade ready. 

2. Prepare the second marinade. Soak the saffron threads in hot water for five minutes. In a large frying pan, add the oil and fry the onions until light brown. Turn off the heat and cool. Set half of the onions aside. Add the remaining half of the onions, garlic, ginger, and 2 tablespoons of Greek yogurt to a blender. Blend into a smooth fine paste. In a large bowl, add the blended paste along with the remaining yogurt, chile powder, and saffron (with water). Season to taste and mix well. Pour this marinade all over the leg of lamb, mixing well to ensure that it is covered well. Drizzle the leg of lamb with honey. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator overnight or two nights. 

3. Roast the lamb. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit. Roast the lamb in a covered baking dish for 1/2 hour. Reduce the heat to 325 degrees Fahrenheit and cook for 25 minutes per pound, around 1.5 hours until the meat is tender. 

4. Prepare the gravy. Blend the garlic and ginger to a smooth paste with a space of water in a grinder or blender. Heat a large frying pan with the oil. Add the paste and fry over a low heat for 2 minutes. Add the spiced powders along with the yogurt and ground almonds. Add any leftover marinade and juices from the baking try to the pan. Fry for 4 minutes. Add 6 tablespoons of water and simmer over a low heat for 12 to 15 minutes. Stir often to make sure that it does not stick to the bottom of the pan. Add a little more water if required to thin it out slightly. Season to taste and keep warm.

5. Finish the dish. Serve the ran on a platter with the fried onions, shallots, mint and pomegranate, as well as pulao and gravy.

PEACE.

Chile-Hot Bright Green Soybeans with Garlic

This recipe comes from the Bai people, who are one of fifty-five (55) "official" ethnic minorities recognized by the People's Republic of China. There are approximately two million Bais in China, the majority of whom live in the Yunnan province, which is located in the south along the borders with Myanmar, Laos and Vietnam. Within the province, the Bai mostly reside in the Dali Autonomous Prefecture, around Lake Er Hai and the upper reaches of the Yangtze River.  

The Bai have a long history, having resided in the Dali region for nearly thirty centuries. The highlights of that history include the Kingdom of Nanzhao (649 C.E. to 902 C.E.) and the Dali Kingdom (937 C.E. to 1253 C.E.). However, an independent Bai kingdom vanished after falling to the Mongols of the Yuan Dynasty. And, to shorten a long story, the region and its people eventually came under the control of the Ming Dynasty and what would become modern day China. 

In addition to their own history, the Bai also have their own culture. They speak their own language, known as Bai, which differs from Mandarin or Cantonese. The majority of Bai practice Mahayana Buddhism, although some practice a form of Buddhism known as Azhaliism, which is more along the lines of Vajrayana Buddhism or Tantric Buddhism. A minority of Bai practice Benzhuism, which is an indigenous folk religion.  

As for their cuisine, the Bai diet features a range of proteins (including pork, beef and fish) and vegetables. This recipe - Chile Hot Bright Green Soybeans with Garlic - is representative of a Bai vegetable dish. I found this recipe in a book called Beyond the Great Wall, which features recipes from China's various ethnic groups.  The authors, Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid, note that the Bai typically prepare this dish with fresh fava beans. The authors suggest soybeans or edamame as a substitute, because it is more available and because those beans add a bright green color to the dish.

CHILE-HOT BRIGHT GREEN SOYBEANS WITH GARLIC

Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid, Beyond the Great Wall, at pg. 103

Serves 4

Ingredients:

• 1 pound (2 cups) fresh or frozen shelled soybeans
• Scant 2 tablespoons peanut oil
• 2 tablespoons thinly sliced pickled red chiles or store bought pickled chiles, or 5 dried red chiles
• 5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 1/2 teaspoon star anise pieces
• About 1 cup mild chicken broth or pork broth or water
• 2 teaspoons of cornstarch, dissolved in two tablespoons of cold water (optional)

Directions:

1.  Prepare the beans.  Rinse the beans under cold water, drain and set aside.

2. Stir fry the beans. Heat a wok over high heat. Add the oil and swirl it a little, then add the chiles and garlic and stir fry for about 30 seconds. Add the soybeans and the star anise and stir fry for about 1 minute. Add the salt and broth or water and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the beans are very tender, about 7 minutes.  (Fresh and frozen beans take about the same amount of time.)

3. Thicken the broth. Give the cornstarch mixture a stir and add it to the wok. Stir fry for a moment, until the liquid thickens. Turn off the heat and serve immediately. 

ENJOY!

Five Spice Smoked Beef Ribs

It is known as the "wonder powder," a concoction whose five ingredients bring together the five flavors: namely, sour, bitter, sweet, pungent and salty. It is a fixture of Chinese and Taiwanese cuisine, finding its way into many of the dishes.  it is Chinese Five Spice powder.

I have always had a jar of the spice mix, but it has rarely found its way into any of the dishes that I have cooked.  To be sure, I used it when I make Larb (which I love) or Crispy Salt and Pepper Squid (which is good too).  I just measure out an amount of the five spice, or I eyeball it, but I never gave much thought as to what makes up the wonder powder or how that powder even came about.

Those questions gave rise to this blog post.  The post is a story about five spices brought together to help propel some beef chuck ribs into a tasty dish.

It all began with a desire to smoke some beef chuck ribs.  I had made smoked beef ribs a few weeks earlier, and, I liked the result so much that I wanted to make them again.  And, this time, I wanted to try some thing different.  I purchased a couple packages of ribs and headed home.

The first effort at smoked beef ribs kept it simple.  Just a rub of kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.  I needed a new rub. Something that would work with beef ribs.  I started looking through jars of different spice mixes for ideas.  That is when I saw it, the jar of Chinese five spice powder.  The eureka moment so passed and I put the jar back.

Picture from Instructables

But, that was not the end of the story.  I then went to the Internet to do some research.  Simple is great, but I did not want this to be easy.  I began researching recipes to make my own Chinese Five Spice powder, and, in the process, learn about the sour, bitter, sweet, pungent and salty aspects of this mixture. The "sour" and "salty" comes, presumably, from the Sichuan peppercorn.  The peppercorn is not actually a peppercorn at all.  (The Sichuan peppercorn is unrelated to black peppercorns or chiles; instead, it is the pinkish, outer husk of a prickly ash shrub of the genus Zanthoxylum.) The bitterness comes from star anise and fennel seeds, both of which also provide a slight licorice note to the powder.  The sweetness comes from cinnamon sticks, which are ground and added to the powder.  Finally, the pungency comes from cloves, which are perhaps one of the strongest spices that provides a definite sense of warmth the powder.  Together, those five spices and the powder they create is known as Chinese Five Spice Powder.  

Just like that jar of Chinese five spice powder, I set aside the internet recipes.  I decided to use a recipe from a tried and true source: Steven Raichlen.  His book, Barbecue Sauces, Rubs and Marinades, contained a recipe that followed those I read on the Internet, bringing together star anise, cinnamon, cloves, fennel seeds and Szechuan peppercorns.  So, instead of one jar of five spices, I pulled out five jars of individual spices and created my own mix.

There is something to be said about making your own spice.  Apart from the fact that you can tweak the recipe, as many do with Chinese Five Spice (making it six or seven spices), it just seems to always taste better than the pre-made stuff.  The homemade spice definitely made these Five Spice Smoked Beef Ribs a great success, one that, lasted long after eating them (thanks to the slight numbing properties of the Szechuan peppercorn, but that will have to be left for another post). 
  

FIVE SPICE SMOKED BEEF RIBS

Rub recipe from Steven Raichlen's Barbecue Sauces, Rubs and Marinades, pg. 43

Serves 4

Ingredients:

4 pounds of beef ribs

3 star anise

2 cinnamon sticks (3 inches each)

3 tablespoons Sichuan peppercorns

2 tablespoons fennel seeds

1/2 teaspoon whole cloves
Sesame seed oil
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds

Vegetable oil

Few chunks of alder or apple wood

Directions:

1.  Prepare the rub.  Heat a dry skillet over medium low heat.  Add the spices and toast until fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes.  Transfer the spices to a bowl and let cool completely.  Break the star anise and cinnamon sticks into pieces, grind the spices into a fine powder in a coffee grinder or spice mill.  

2.  Prepare the ribs.  Brush all sides of the beef ribs with a little vegetable oil.  Apply the five spice rub to all sides.  Cover the ribs with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes to a few hours. 

3.  Prepare the grill.  Soak the wood chunks in water for about 1 hour.  Prepare the fire and coals in the smoker until you have a temperature of around 250 degrees Fahrenheit.  Oil the grate and place the ribs in the smoker.  Cook until you get an internal temperature of about 185 degrees Fahrenheit, about 3 to 3 1/2 hours.  Remove the ribs from the smoker and let rest for 10 minutes.

4.  Finish the dish. Using a brush, dab the top of the beef ribs with the sesame oil.  Sprinkle the toasted sesame seeds over the ribs.  Serve immediately.

ENJOY!

Kerala Style Meatball Curry

When it comes to curries, I have a particular interest in recipes that come from the Southern part of India, especially Kerala.  If I had to give a reason, I think it is because those curries have a lot more heat in them, with the use of different chiles and peppers.  I have made three such curries in the past, Panni Ularthiyathu (a dry pork curry), Keralan Duck Curry, and Shrimp Masala.   I have enjoyed each of those dishes and, consequently, I keep a look out for other Keralan recipes.

A few weeks ago, I came across such a recipe.  It was not the chiles that caught my attention.  Instead, it was the protein.  I am used to making curries with lamb, pork, chicken, and duck.  I am even used to making curries with vegetables.  However, this curry called for meatballs.  The "word" meatball goes straight to my Italian heritage, growing up eating pasta and meatballs on a weekly basis and on holidays.  Meatballs in a curry sounded like a great idea.

The use of meatballs makes this recipe very versatile.  Most of the proteins I just mentioned -- lamb, chicken and pork -- either come ground or could be ground with a food processor.  For this particular dish, I decided to use ground turkey thighs, primarily because my beautiful Angel eats and enjoys turkey.  Thigh meat is definitely better for meatballs than breast meat because of the slightly higher fat content.  I bought pre-ground turkey from a local grocery store, which saved a lot of time by eliminating the need to de-bone and then mince the meat.  

When it came to cooking the meatballs, I chose the alternative of baking them.  This makes the dish healthier by eliminating the additional fact that would be added during the frying process.  Frying turkey meatballs requires some oil to avoid burning the meat.  Placing them in the oven helped to eliminate that part of the process and removed some of the grease from the final product.

In the end, this recipe was very delicious. It will go on the short list of recipes to make for the family and friends.  It will also go on my to-do list, because I definitely intend to make it again with other proteins (i.e., the ones that my Angel does not eat).  

KERALA STYLE MEATBALL CURRY

Recipe from Vazhayila

Serves 4

Ingredients:

1 pound of minced meat (chicken, beef, lamb or turkey)

2 cloves minced garlic minced

2 green chiles, finely chopped

2 whole cloves

1 bay leaf

1 star anise, crushed

Curry Leaves

1 teaspoon red chile powder

1 teaspoon coriander powder

1/4 teaspoon turmeric powder

2 medium onions, chopped

1 teaspoon ginger-garlic paste or crushed

1 large tomato, chopped

1/4 teaspoon of garam masala

1 cup of coconut milk - 1 cup

1/2 hot water

Salt to taste

Cilantro (optional)

Directions:

1.  Make the meatballs.  Combine minced meat, minced garlic, green chiles and salt.  Knead into a dough and make small balls with it.  Wet your hands when necessary so that the meat won't stick to your hands.  Keep the meatballs on a cookie sheet lined with parchment or foil in the refrigerator for about 20-30 minutes.  The meatballs can be fried in a little oil or, as an alternative, the meatballs can be baked for 20 to 30 minutes at 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

2. Saute the onions and spices.  Heat oil in a pan and add cloves, bay leaf, star anise and curry leaves.  Fry for one minute or two.  Add ginger/garlic paste and mix well. Add the chopped tomato and saute until the oil separates.

3.  Prepare the curry.  Make a paste with the red chile powder, coriander powder and turmeric powder by adding a little water to the mixture.  Add the paste to the pan and fry for a minute or two.  Mix hot water and 1 cup coconut milk.  Add the liquid mixture add to the pan. Sprinkle some garam masala and stir to combine the ingredients well.  When the gravy is really hot slide in meatballs, one by one, at a distance.  The meatballs should not be allowed to touch each other, so always use a wide mouthed pan while cooking this.  Simmer covered for 30-45 minutes. Uncover and simmer till gravy thickens.  Garnish with the chopped cliantro.

ENJOY!

Turkey Biryani with Cucumber Raita

One dish that I have wanted to make for a very long time is Biryani, a "one-pot" dish of rice in a heavily spiced sauce with meat and vegetables.  The name "biryani" is Persian in origin, for "fried" or "roasted."  Legend has it, according to one blogger, that the dish was brought to what is known as India today by a Persian king named Taimur, who ruled between 1336 to 1405.  By contrast, Wikipedia claims that the dish was created in the kitchen of the Mughal Emperors.

Whatever the source, there seems to be an infinite variety of Biryani.  There are the regional versions, such as the Hyderabadi Biryani, Sindhi Biryani and Bhatkali Biryani.  There are also versions based upon different proteins, such as chicken, fish and shrimp biryanis, as well as a vegetarian version of daal biryani.  This range of different dishes presents a major challenge for myself, because I want to learn about the history and background of each version, as well as cook it for myself, family and friends.

Speaking of which, I recently had the opportunity to make a biryani, although a somewhat Americanized version of it.  I made a turkey biryani with raita.  The use of turkey is what "Americanizes" this dish, because the fowl is not widely available where biryanis are traditionally prepared.  The recipe comes from Atul Kochhar, a 1 star Michelin chef of Benares, Mayfair.  This dish was intended as a way to use turkey leftovers from Thanksgiving.  I changed it a little, using fresh turkey rather than leftovers.  I bought the equivalent weight of fresh turkey thighs.  (If you can get skinless and boneless thighs, that will save you a lot of work.)   I cut the turkey into pieces and sauteed it in batches.  Given the directions of this recipe, it worked out perfectly because the turkey was warm and ready to be added toward the end.

TURKEY BIRYANI WITH CUCUMBER RAITA

Recipe by Atul Kochhar and Reprinted at

Lifestyle Food

Serves 6

Ingredients (for the Biryani):
2 pounds of cooked turkey meat
1.5 cups of basmati rice, boiled or steamed to just done
3 tablespoons of vegetable oil
2 cloves
2 bay leaves
1 star anise
1 cinnamon stick (about 1 inch)
1 teaspoon of cumin seeds
4 medium size onions, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon of garlic, minced
1 tablespoon of ginger, minced
1 green chile, minced
1 teaspoon of turmeric powder
1 teaspoon coriander powder
1/2 teaspoon black pepper powder
1 teaspoon garam masala
4-6 medium size tomatoes, blended to a paste
7 ounces coconut milk
Salt to taste

Ingredients (for the Raita):
1 teaspoon of cumin seeds, toasted and crushed to powder
4 tablespoons of seedless cucumber, grated
Salt, to taste
1/2 tablespoon of mint leaves, finely chopped

Directions:

1.  Prepare the sauce.  Heat the oil in a pan; add the cloves, bay leaves, star anise, cinnamon stick and cumin seeds.  As the spices crackle in the heat, add the sliced onion and a pinch of salt, sauté until golden brown in colour.  Stir-in the ginger, garlic and chilli, sauté for 2 minutes or until cooked.  Add the turmeric, coriander, black pepper and garam masala powders and sauté for 1 minute before adding the tomatoes.  While stirring, bring to simmer and cook for further 2-3 minutes and then add coconut milk and simmer for further 2-3 minutes. Check for seasoning.

2.  Prepare the raita.  Whisk the yogurt and mix in the rest of the ingredients.  Serve chilled.

3.  Finish the dish.   When ready to serve, stir in turkey into the sauce and heat for a minute and add rice and mix lightly with a rice fork. Garnish with chopped coriander leaves and serve with chilled cucumber raita.

ENJOY!