Karas Classic White (2017)

I have always been fascinated by the lesser known wine producing regions of the world. Places such as Kakheti, Georgia or the Dalmatian coast of Croatia.  My fascination with such reasons lies with the fact that, inevitably, those little known regions are often producing wines with even lesser known grape varietals. 

Take, for example, the small country of Armenia.  The country consists of 11,484 square miles located entirely in the Caucasus Mountains. Yet, it is the valleys, especially those in the Ararat and Armavir regions, where people have been producing wines for centuries.  There are over 400 grape varietals that can be found in Armenia, but only 31 of those varietals become wines. 

One of these grapes is the Kangun.  The white varietal is a hybrid between the Rkatsiteli grape (which is one of the oldest grape varietals in history) and the Sukolimansky grape (which itself is a cross between Chardonnay and another grape varietal). The majority of Kangun grapes never make it to a wine bottle. Instead, they are destined for Armenian brandy.  Those grapes that become wine produce light, hay or straw colored wines, that are full of white fruits, honey and other elements.

My introduction to the Kangun grape came in an unexpected way. I went to my local Syrian/Middle Eastern market looking for a very specific wine - the Karas Classic Red. The store did not have any more of the red wine. Instead, it had bottles of the Karas Classic White. Needless to say, given how much I like the red wine, I decided to give the white wine a try. 

The Classic White is a blend of three grapes - Kangun (50%), Chardonnay (40%), and Viognier (10%). The wine pours in very light hay color, giving a yellowish hue to what you can see through the glass. The citrus notes come through in the aroma, with some grapefruit and a hint of lemon or pineapple as well. As expected, some of these aromatic elements also carry through to the taste of the wine. The crispness of the wine hinted at the Chardonnay grapes, presenting in some respects as an unoaked wine.  (I tried to find how this wine was aged, whether in oak barrels  or in stainless steel, but was not successful.)  The wine label boasts of a "solid mineral structure," but I was not able to pick up much minerality or any earthiness in the wine.

This wine was good enough to get me to sit down to type out a review.  (I had previously decided to reduce the number of wine and beer reviews that I do for this blog in an effort to focus more on cooking.)  That says something about the wine. It is definitely worth a try and provides an interesting first step into the experience of Armenian wine. 

ENJOY!

Gadino Cellars Viognier (2011)

Back in 2011, the Virginia Wine Board declared Viognier to be the state grape of Virginia.  At first blush, it seems like a shrewd (or, perhaps, not so shrewd) marketing campaign.  Viognier is for Virginia.  You can just hear the slogans.  "VYOHN yay" is for "ver GIN ya."  One can see the billboards along Interstate 95 and Interstate 81, with outlines of the State of Virginia filled with grape vines and bottle of wine.    

However, the association of Viognier and Virginia goes beyond common letters in their name.  Many Virginian vineyards and winemakers have successfully cultivated this grape to produce some very good wines.  One area of Vigonier activity is the Monticello AVA (American Viticultural Area).  The AVA gets its name from Thomas Jefferson's home, which is located within the region.  The AVA stretches across the central Piedmont in Virginia, including most of the Albemarle, Greene, Nelson and Orange counties.  

One winemaker, Gadino Cellars, takes Viognier grapes from the Monticello AVA to produce a single varietal wine at their family operated winery.  The grapes for their wine are grown at Gene Sulliva's South River Vineyard located at 900 feet elevation on gentle slops of the Blue Ridge near Stanardsville, VA, which is located in Greene County.  My beautiful Angel and I bought a bottle of the Viognier when we visited Gadino Cellars' tasting room.

The Viognier poured a very light straw color, with a faint golden hue.  The winemakers describe the aromatic elements of this wine to include honeysuckle, which I think is generally true.  I got some tropical fruit in the aroma as well, but some of the more commonly noted aromas -- such as apricot, orange blossom, pear -- were not very strong or present in the aroma of this wine.  

However, some of those elements were present in the taste.  I could clearly detect flavors of pear and even a little peach in the taste of the Gadino Cellars Viognier.   The winemakers suggest that there is tropical fruit and spice in the taste, and, I can say there was a hint "spice" in the taste of the wine.  Overall, this is a very good Viognier and it demonstrates the potential of the varietal in Virginia.

When it comes to pairing, the winemakers suggest that their Viognier can be paired with turkey, roast chicken and shellfish.  All of these are intriguing pairings, especially the turkey.  I could definitely see this wine being served on Thanksgiving day along with a very large, stuffed turkey.  Of course, the 2011 vintage is long gone and it will have to be bottles from the 2012 vintage.

We found this bottle at the tasting room in Washington, Virginia.  It sells for $22.00 a bottle.

ENJOY!

Skouras Anassa (2012)

It can be a little daunting when it comes to Greek wine.  For starters, There is some degree of intimidation in the names of the grapes. Agiorghitiko. Mavrodaphne. Tsaoussi.  Moschofilero.  Those names have often left my tongue tied.  When I was recently making Galopoúla me Dendrolivano for my beautiful Angel, I needed a Greek wine to use in the dish (and, of course, to pair with afterwards).  I perused the Greek wine at a local grocery store and found the Skouras Anassa, which is a blend of a familiar grape and a less familiar one.

Skouras started in 1986 in Pyrgela, Aros, and it has worked with both indigenous and international grape varietals.  The Anassa represents that combination of local and international, because it is a blend of 70% Moschofilero and 30% Viognier.  The emphasis on Moschofilero provides this wine with its Greek character, as that grape is well known for its floral aromas and spicy tones, while the Viognier contributes some fruit, such as pears and peaches, as well as minerality to the taste of the wine.

When it comes to Anassa, it pours a very light, pale color.  The wine is described as being a medium bodied white wine with  aromas of ripe apricot, citrus and orange peel, finishing with a clean, crisp finish.  As for myself, I could sense the citrus and even some apple in the aroma.  Those apples carry over to the taste of the wine, which also included bright lemons and some slate.  The citrus somewhat mellowed as the wine warmed up, leaving the minerality (that is, the slate) to shine through as the finish brings a tart bite on the tongue.  

When it comes to pairings, this wine works very well with poultry, such as the Galopoúla me Dendrolivano (Rosemary Turkey) or Katapoulo me Dendrolivano (Rosemary Chicken).  I think that it would also work well with a variety of seafood dishes, which are plentiful in Greek cuisine.  

I found this wine at a local grocery store.  It sells for about $10.99 a bottle.

ENJOY!

Black Ankle Vineyards' VGV (2011)

VGV.  The three letters are an acronym, a significant shorting of Viognier Grüner Veltliner.  Those three words represent two grapes (1) Viognier and (2) Gruner Veltiner.  Those two grapes were blended into one very interesting and delicious wine by Black Ankle Vineyards in Mount Airy, Maryland.   

The blending of Viognier and Grüner Veltliner represents a sort of combination of East and West.  The West -- Viognier -- is grown in France, where it is grown principle in the Rhône valley, where its elements of pear, peaches, violets and minerality contribute to some very well known white wines.  The East -- Grüner Veltliner -- is a white wine grape that is principally grown in Austria, Slovakia and the Czech Republic (although, as with just about every grape, including Viognier, it is now grown across the world.)  The grapes produce a wine is not really known for its aromatic qualities, at least at a young age.  However, as time goes by, the wines develop citrus notes, as well as white pepper, celery and lentil elements.

The winemakers at Black Ankle brought together East and West to produce a very unusual blend.  (I have to admit that I personally have not seen very many Viognier and Grüner Veltliner blends.)  The VGV pours a light golden color. As the wine rests in the glass, aromas of grass are followed by elements of pear, nectarine and cracked pepper.  The taste of this wine presents a very interesting combination of tastes.  On the one hand, there is the citrus and fruits, such as those pears, nectarines and grapefruit, all of which are most likely brought about by the Viognier grapes  with some help from the Grüner Veltliner grapes.  On the other hand, there is some earthiness, pepper and minerality, which is probably from the Grüner Veltliner grapes, with a little assistance from the Viogner grapes.  Two grapes working together to produce an excellent wine with a light, crisp body with just the proper amount of tartness.

The winemakers suggest that the VGV would pair well with smoked appetizers, like a smoked salmon appetizer.  I think that the VGV follows the pairing rules of its constituent grapes.  Light seafood dishes, like steamed mussels, and some chicken dishes, like light curries, would work well this this wine.  When it comes to cheese, I think hard cheeses would work this this wine, ith silkiness in the mouth bright and tart flavors of citrus and grapefruit blend with mineral, creating a wonderfully crisp and refreshing white blend.

This wine was produced by Black Ankle a couple of years ago and, to my knowledge, the vineyard has not produced any subsequent vintages.

ENJOY!

Tablas Creek Vineyards Patelin de Tablas Blanc (2001)

Paso Robles is one of our most favorite American Viticultural Areas ("AVAs") outside of Willamette Valley (which, as a whole, is our favorite AVA ... we just love those Pinot Noir wines).  I have previously noted our love for Paso Robles red wines, when I reviewed wines like the Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon and San Simeon Petit Sirah.  So, when I saw a white wine from Paso Robles, the Tablas Creek Vineyard Patelin de Tablas Blanc (2011), I bought a bottle to try a white wine from an AVA that is more known for its red wines.

The Patelin de Tablas Blanc is produced in a Rhône style, a blend of four grapes that are well established through much of that valley: Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Roussane and Marsanne. The exact breakdown of the grapes in this wine is as follows: 45% Grenache Blanc, 34% Viognier, 18% Roussane and 3% Marsanne.

The more interesting breakdown is the source of the grapes used to produce this wine.  The grapes are sourced from nearly a dozen vineyards throughout Paso Robles.  The grapes came from the following vineyards: 22% of the grapes (Grenache Blanc) come from Catherine's vineyard; 17% of the grapes (Viognier) come from the Chequera vineyard;  14% of the grapes (Viognier and Roussane) come from the Paso Ridge vineyard; 11% of the grapes (Viognier) come from the Hidden Valley vineyard; 8% of the grapes (Grenache Blanc, Roussane and Marsanne) come from the Edward Sellers vineyard; 6% of the grapes (Viognier) come from the Paso Uno vineyard; 5% of the grapes (Grenache Blanc) come from the Las Vista vineyard; 5% of the grapes (Roussane) come from the Tablas Creek vineyard; 4% of the grapes (Grenache Blanc) come from the Dawson Creek vineyard; 4% of the grapes (Grenache Blanc) come from the Burbank Ranch vineyard; and 4% of the grapes (Grenache Blanc) come from the Briarwood vineyard.   That is a lot of grapes from a lot of vineyards.

The Patelin de Tablis Blanc pours a light straw or hay color.  The winemakers describe the aroma as having "fruity, floral aromas of honeysuckle, apricot and candied grapefruit."  I could get a sense of honeysuckle, or perhaps just honey, along with some nice fruit.  As for the taste, the winemakers describe the wine has being full of peach and lemon zest, with a creamy texture and vibrant acids.  There was some peach, but maybe my taste buds were a little off that evening, as I sensed more apple and pear than peach or apricot.  Regardless, both the aroma and taste of the wine was very good, and the texture was just as described ... creamy with a nice finish.

The winemakers suggest two pairings for this wine: mussels mariniere and fish with fennel.  Both of those suggestions are good, but I would also add any grilled seafood, as well as grilled poultry, like chicken.

I found this wine at a local grocery store.  A bottle sells for about $15.99.  

ENJOY!

Black Ankle Vineyards Leaf Stone Syrah (2008)

According to legend, there was a grape varietal cultivated around the ancient Persian city of Shiraz.  The Phocaeans -- ancient Ionian Greeks who were some of the first to make long sea voyages.  Some of those voyages led to the establishment of Massilla (now Marseilles).  The Phocaeans are said to have brought the the grape varietal from Shiraz to Massilla.  They planted the grape in what is now southern France.  Eventually, the grape made its way northward, to regions such as the Rhône valley, where Syrah firmly took its place in the world of French wine. 

This story is just one of a few legends about how the Syrah grape made its way to France.  However, there are many other stories about how the grape has since made its way around the world.  A stroll down the aisles of a wine shop reveal Syrah wines not just from France, but also the California, Chile, Argentina and Australia (where it is known as Shiraz).  And, if one looks hard enough, you can even find Syrah wines from some unexpected places ... like Maryland.

About a year ago, both Clare and I tried a Syrah wine from Black Ankle Vineyards called the Leaf Stone Syrah.  The wine is predominantly Syrah, with a breakdown of 81% Syrah, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, 3% Viognier, 1% Malbec, 1% Merlot.  The wine is aged for 18 months in French oak barrels, with only 392 cases produced.  We had purchased a few bottles of the 2008 vintage, and, we opened one to enjoy.  At that time, the winemaker suggested decanting the wine, so as to allow it some time to open, or letting the wine cellar for a while to allow the wine to mature.  We decanted the wine and I began to write a wine review.  I did not finish the review at that time, because I wanted to wait to see how the wine developed.  Recently, we opened another bottle of the 2008 Leaf Stone Syrah.  I decided to let it decant as well, just to allow the wine a little air.  And, then I decided to finish that wine review. 

Generally, Syrah wines are very bold, fruit wines.  Joshua Wesson, the author of Wine & Food, describes the grape as having two main expressions: the northern Rhône style, with its "earthy quality, dark fruit and firm tannins" and an Australian style, best described as "jammy" with spice.  From the description provided by Black Ankle, one would assume that the goal was a northern Rhône wine.  The winemakers describe the wine as having "savory hints of smoke, leather, hickory, and plum on the nose," as well as "a lovely earthen and spice edge to the fresh and tart flavors of black cherry, cranberry, olive and vanilla."  These descriptions are apt for a Syrah from the northern Rhône valley.

Our first bottle of the wine did resemble the description, with both earthy and dark fruit elements int the aroma and the taste, which was definitely full of dark red fruits, and, earthy aspects reminiscent of the ground from which the vines grew.  However, after about a year, the wine had matured.  Much of the description -- smoke, leather, and hickory -- had mellowed to a significant degree, allowing the fruit of the wine to be more dominant in both the aroma and the taste.  In some ways, the expression of this wine gravitated away from the Rhône and toward Australia.  The second bottle was definitely the fruit forward, bold wine one would expect from a Syrah, but those earthy elements evolved into more of a spice and pepper.  This new element was very pleasing and it complemented the dark red fruit -- those plums, cranberries and black cherries -- in a very good way. 

Like any Syrah wine, the Leaf Stone Syrah pairs very well with beef and lamb dishes, whether grilled, broiled or braised.  Think a grilled steak or braised short ribs.  It will also work with substantial chicken and pork dishes, such as braises or stews.  

We still have a couple bottles left of this vintage.  It will be interesting to see if there is any more development in the wine.  Only time will tell!

ENJOY!

Black Ankle Vineyards Viognier (2009)

Legend says that the name "Viognier" originated with the Roman words "Via Gehennae" or "Valley of Hell."  It is thought that this name was an allusion to the difficulty of growing the grape.  The difficulty in growing the grape is belied by the fact that, today, it is grown around the world.  Most famously, it is grown in the Northern Rhône valley, where it is the only grape used in producing Condrieu wine.  According to Wikipedia, Viognier grapes are also cultivated in Chile, Argentina, Australia, Canada and eleven United States.

Well, in this regard, Wikipedia is wrong.  Viognier is grown in twelve States, with the twelfth state being Maryland.  One winemaker, Black Ankle Vineyards, produces a wine made with 100% Viognier.  According to the label, the grapes are grown on decomposing slate laced with quartz, on hills that face West and North.  Only 220 cases were made of this wine. 

The author of Wine & Food: A New Look at Flavor, Joshua Wesson, describes Viognier as a rich white wine, having delicate aromas and flavors of ripe apricot and pear, with a honey finish, a buttery mouthfeel, and a relatively high alcohol content. Black Ankle's Viognier pours a light gold in color. The wine does have the aromatic elements of a rich white wine.  I could sense some pear, but there were more prominent aroma of Parmesan, honey and even a little vanilla. 

The flavors of the Viognier are also very interesting.  The pear flavors were there, along with that vanilla, and, just as Wesson suggested, a buttery mouthfeel.  The Viognier had some mild oak flavors.  It was definitely not like an oaked Chardonnay, but the wine did have some hints of a wine aged in oak.  A little buttery feel, a little vanilla, some oak flavors.

I think this Viognier will pair well with a variety of dishes.  The best dishes are seafood, particularly lobster, crab and meatier fishes like bluefish, snapper or halibut.  It could also pair with chicken and pork dishes, provided that the dishes not have heavy cream or tomato based sauces.  This wine could also pair well with dishes that feature artichokes and mushrooms.  As for cheeses, this wine would pair well with soft and semi-soft cheeses, such as Gruyere and Brie.

Black Ankle's white wines, like the Viognier, are very hard to find.  Fortunately, Clare found a bottle at State Line Liquors in Elkton, Maryland.  A bottle sells for about $26.00.

ENJOY!

Victor Hugo Vineyards Viognier (2009)

"God made only water, but man made wine."  Those words were written by Victor Hugo, a famous French poet, playwright, and human rights activist.  Little did Hugo know that, nearly one hundred years after his death, that man would be making wine in his name.  The man -- actually a husband and wife, Leslie and Vic Roberts -- began the Victor Hugo Winery in the Paso Robles region of California.  The winery grows its grapes in the Templeton Hills Vineyard, which is the estate vineyard.  Victor Hugo Winery grows a wide range of grapes, from Cabernet Sauvignon to Viognier grapes.

The Viognier grape is a white wine grape.  The origin of the grape is unknown; however, legend says that the grape dates back to the Roman Empire.  More specifically, they say that, in 281 A.D., the Roman Emperor, Probus, brought the grape to what would eventually become France.   Farmers planted the vines and cultivated the grapes for centuries and, for a good part of that time, the grape was fairly common.  In more recent times, the cultivation of Viognier has decreased.  In fact, the grape is cultivated today primarily in the Northern Rhône region in the Condrieu appellation.  While cultivation of the grape decreased in France, it has increased around the world, including about one dozen states in the United States.   

Viognier has definitely taken root in the Paso Robles AVA in California, where Victor Hugo produces its own Viognier wine.  The label states that the 2009 Paso Robles Vigonier is an estate wine.  The grapes were hand harvested, whole clusters were pressed and then barrel-fermented and aged in Hungarian oak for 5 months.  Aromas of honeysuckle and ripe apricot with hings of almond blossom.  Goes with soft ripe cheeses,  spicy Asian dishes, scallops, oysters and lobsters.

The Victor Hugo Viognier pours a yellowish, goldish color.  The wine has aromas of flowers, honey and melon.  This wine has a lighter body, reminscent more of a Pinot Grigio than a Chardonnay.  The melon and honey flavors carry through to the taste of the wine, providing an interesting parallel to wines such as Vouvray.

Wines such as this Viognier are best paired with lighter dishes, as well as seafood dishes.  I paired this wine with the Sauteed Sheephead, Savage Boleks Style, because I thought the wine would complement the oysters and fish used in that dish.

We found this wine in Orange Beach, Alabama during our vacation. It sold for $21.99 a bottle. I am not sure about the distribution of this wine, because I have not seen it around where I live.

ENJOY!