Black Pork Curry

Everything I read tells me that black curry is essential to Sri Lankan cuisine. I can believe that premise, but I have spent a lot of time trying to find an answer as to why that would be the case. Readers of this blog know of my love for curries generally and of Sri Lankan cuisine in particular. (Quick update for others: Sri Lanka basically curries everything.) 

There are a wide range of curry powders in Sri Lanka, but black curry seems to stand out.  It seems to be a uniquely Sri Lankan curry powder. (There is a "black curry" that arose in Japanese cuisine, but it is different than what I am talking about here - that will be saved for another post.) I have not been able to find a similar curry blend in any of the other subcontinent cuisines. 

It may be simply another way to describe roasted curry powder, which is definitely a Sri Lankan thing. I have a lot of roasted curry powder on hand and have used it to prepare roasted curry wings and an oyster curry.

For this recipe, I have prepared a black curry featuring pork. The curry mix combines roasted Sri Lankan curry powder with some other traditional ingredients, such as cardamom, cinnamon, and black pepper. The use of tamarind also helps to darken the color of the mixture, perhaps adding to the description of a black curry. The only substitution that I made was to add a roasted chile powder, which I had purchased from a Sri Lankan market a while back. That powder was also extra hot, which helped to reinforce the kick of this dish. 

In the end, this black pork curry was amazing. The only downside is that, while it serves four, I found myself eating a serving for two because it was so good. I will definitely need to make this dish more often. 

BLACK PORK CURRY

Recipe from The Flavor Bender

Serves 4

Ingredients (for the marinade):

• 4 teaspoons black pepper, whole
• 6 cardamom pod seeds, crushed
• 1 heaping teaspoon of Sri Lankan roasted curry powder
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 3 teaspoons tamarind paste

Ingredients (for the curry):

• 1.5 pounds pork loin chops or shoulder
• 2 jalapeno peppers, sliced (or serrano peppers) for more heat
• 1 inch of peeled ginger, minced
• 3 garlic cloves minced
• 1/2 medium onion, chopped
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice (optional)
• 2-3 bay leaves
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• Salt to taste

Directions:

1. Prepare the pork. Cut the pork into 1/2 to 1 inch cubes. If the pork has bones, add those to the curry as well. 

2. Prepare the masala. Crush the cardamom pods into a powder and mix it with the black pepper, curry powder, salt, cinnamon and cayenne pepper. Crush and mix all of this together using a mortar and pestle. Add 2 tablespoons of this spice mix, tamarind paste and 1 tablespoon of oil to the pork and mix to coat. Leave to marinate for a few hours or overnight in a refrigerator.

3. Prepare the curry. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the bay leaves, ginger and onions and sauté until the onions become translucent. Add the garlic and sliced jalapeno peppers and sauté for another 30 seconds. Add the marinated pork and sugar and stir t o mix well. Add about 1/2 cup of water and bring this to a boil. Lower the heat to medium low and let it simmer for 1 hour. Check on the curry and add extra water if it dries out.

4. Finish the dish. Taste and add more salt and some lemon juice if needed.

PEACE.

Kitchen Pepper

For as long as there have been organized societies on this planet, there has been a spice trade. For most people, that trade is associated with the "silk road," which connected the Far East (principally China) with the rest of Asia, Europe and Africa.  The silk road began around in the third century, B.C.E and continued until the Ottoman Empire effectively shut it down in 1453. What may be less known is the network of "silk roads" that date back to 2,000 B.C.E. This network facilitated the trade in, among other things, cinnamon from Ceylon (now, Sri Lanka), and cassia from China. These routes also gave rise to the trade in cloves and nutmeg from the "spice islands" (later conglomerated into what became Indonesia).

Other roads - or more appropriately, voyages - added to the spice trade by introducing ingredients from the "New World."  These ingredients included allspice from Xaymaca (now Jamaica), along with chiles and vanilla from Anahuac (the Nahuatl name for what is now known as Mexico). 

In sum, the spice trade introduced a wide range of new ingredients -- black pepper, cardamom, cassia, chiles, cinnamon, cloves, cumin, ginger, mace, nutmeg, saffron, star anise, and turmeric -- to cooks around the world. Cooks from around the world began incorporating these spices into mixes, adding new spices as they became available. These spice mixes include Berbere in the Horn of Africa, the masalas of the subcontinent, and Baharat in the Middle East. 

European cooks in the 15th century began to categorize (loosely) those mixes. They fell into three categories: powder blanche, powder deuce (sweet) and powder fort (strong). The mixes eventually were lumped together into one common term, "kitchen pepper." 

The story of kitchen pepper is not a uniquely European. The reason is that other voices have contributed to the narrative. These voices include the enslaved Africans, who worked in the kitchens on plantations in the New World and elsewhere in colonies across the globe. For example, Hercules Posey, the enslaved African who served as the cook (really, the chef) for George Washington, is believed to have used a kitchen pepper mix that featured nutmeg. James Hemmings, the enslaved cook (again, chef) for Thomas Jefferson is thought to have used a mix heavily studded with black pepper.  And, then there was Polly Haine, who may have used allspice as part of her kitchen pepper spice mix. Polly Haine went on to use that mix to create her Caribbean Pepper Pot soup, which she sold on the streets of Philadelphia in the late 18th century. Each of these examples underscores the primary characteristic of kitchen pepper: everyone has their own individual mix. All of those mixes that give rise to the story.

Michael Twitty

I first came across kitchen pepper while reading Michael Twitty's The Cooking Gene, which won the James Beard award in 2018 for the best food writing and book of the year. The award is well deserved. The Cooking Gene is his personal mission "to document the connection between food history and family history from Africa to America, from slavery to freedom." This book introduced me to Twitty's work.  As a writer, scholar, culinary historian and cultural interpreter, Twitty has dedicated his work to preserving and promoting African-American foodways. (A foodway is defined as the culinary practices and eating habits of a people, region or historical period.) Twitty's work, along with that of other writers, historians and interpreters, is bringing to life an important part of the culture and cuisine that has defined not only the United States, but the world for centuries.

Kitchen pepper is an example of this exploration.  Twitty's recipe apparently draws inspiration from the spice mixes developed by Hercules, James, and Polly by incorporating nutmeg, black pepper and allspice. Twitty builds upon that inspiration by adding other spices, including cinnamon, crushed red pepper, ginger, mace, and white pepper to his recipe. The end result is, at least for me, reminiscent of spice mixes that I have encountered throughout my years of cooking. Yet, this particular spice mix - the kitchen peppers developed by enslaved African cooks - is something that does not garner the same attention as those other mixes (like masalas, Berbere, etc.). I am thankful for the opportunity to learn more about kitchen pepper, and, it is an opportunity that I may not have had without Michael Twitty's work. 

If I had to summarize kitchen pepper, then I would do so in the following way: kitchen pepper is about the artistry of an untold number of individual, enslaved cooks, each of whom crafted his or her own spice mix. It is about an unspoken effort to assert one's individuality while subjugated in a brutal, dehumanizing system that was intended to deny that right and freedom to that individual. 

KITCHEN PEPPER

Recipe by Michael Twitty, available at Bittman Project 

or Michael Twitty, The Cooking Gene, pg. 24

Ingredients:

• 2 tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon freshly grated nutmeg
• 1 tablespoon ground allspice
• 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
• 1 tablespoon ground ginger
• 1 tablespoon ground mace
• 1 tablespoon ground white pepper
• 1 tablespoon ground red pepper flakes

Directions:

Combine all of the ingredients and mix well.  Store in an airtight container. 

ENJOY!

Around the World in 80 Dishes (Special): Palestine

As part of my Around the World in 80 Dishes culinary adventure, I decided that I would prepare four special challenges. Each challenge would focus on a cuisine of a culture that does not have its own, fully recognized country. These challenges will also appear as part of my Beyond Borders project.

"If the olive trees knew the hands that planted them, their oil would become tears." 

Mahmoud Darwish.

I think it is fair to say that olive trees have a special place in Palestine and in the heart of Palestinians. Olive trees have been cultivated there for millennia. More recently, it has been estimated that olive groves constituted approximately 48% of the cultivated land in the Palestinian territories (mostly in the West Bank).  Those trees, and more specifically the olives and oil produced from those trees, accounts for fourteen percent (14%) of Palestine's agricultural income; and, that income supports more than 80,000 Palestinian families. To put that in perspective, consider the fact that  potatoes constitute fifteen percent (15%) of the agricultural income of the United States. Just as French fries or mashed potatoes may be important to Americans, olives and olive oil are important to Palestinians. 

But these trees are more than economic data. An olive tree is a symbol of the intangible qualities within the Palestinian people. Olive trees have shallow root systems, remaining just below the surface, enabling them to collect water before the surrounding soil dries out. These root systems enable the olive tree to thrive under harsh and difficult conditions. Perhaps it is that resilience explains the special place of these trees within Palestinian society. After all, resilience is a trait that is needed if one is a Palestinian living in the West Bank. 

Take, for example, a Palestinian farmer who cultivates olive trees. If his or her grove is near an Israeli settlement, the farmer needs to get a permit in order to cultivate the trees, even though those trees are situated on the farmer's property. Israeli authorities deny forty-two percent (42%) of those applications.  A denied application means that the farmer cannot access his or her olive trees. No access means no income or ability to support oneself or a family. Even if the farmer is able to get a permit, he or she must still access his or her property through a checkpoint. Those checkpoints are open seasonally and only during certain timeframes. Even if the farmer gets the permit and gets through the checkpoint, he or she will be able to work his or her property, but under the supervision of the Israeli military.  The entire picture - having to get a permit to farm one's own land, having to go through a checkpoint to get to one's property, and having to be supervised while working on one's land - is a series of indignations that rob many Palestinians of their dignity and respect as human beings. 

It is this deprivation of dignity and respect for Palestinians as people that defines their daily life. It is not just the farmer who has to endure an oppressive system - characterized by dark hues that shift from the Kafkaesque to the Apartheid-esque - each and every day of their lives. The New York Times recently chronicled the lives of several Palestinians in an article entitled Life Under Occupation: The Misery at the Heart of the Conflict. I think the article is a must-read, not only because it is a well written article, but also because it provides a window to the multitude of indignities suffered by and insecurities felt by a wide range of Palestinians on a daily basis.

The Life Under Occupation article represents an exception when it comes to reporting on the conflict in Palestine and Israel. Most news articles focus on rockets being fired into Israeli territory or Israeli airstrikes on targets in the West Bank or Gaza. To make matters worse, we accept the headline, maybe read the byline, and possibly the article itself. We almost never take the additional step to learn more than what is in that article. It is a tragedy, because we can never fully understand a situation. People can at least make an effort to go beyond what is provided to them - whether in a newspaper delivered to their door or found on their newsfeed on their phone. They can affirmatively try to learn more about the experiences of those who are caught up in a dispute, that is, learn more about the people rather than the politics. In this case, it is an effort to learn about the plight of everyday Palestinian people. Individuals who are just trying to get by, make a living, and support their families. 

So, for this special Around the World in 80 Dishes post, I am dedicating it to the everyday Palestinian, whether it is the farmer tending to his or her olive groves, or the workers in shops, factories and other workplaces.  I want to learn more about them and, given this is a food blog, what they eat. Fortunately, my beautiful Angel's parents bought me a cookbook by Reem Kassis entitled The Palestinian Table. I decided to make a meal using recipes from that cookbook. 

SPICE MIX

When one talks about Middle Eastern cuisine, there is inevitably a spice mix. Some spice mixes are uniquely attributed to a specific country or people, such Ras el-Hanout is to Morocco. Other spice mixes, such as Baharat or Za'atar cross borders and ethic groups. For example, there is Turkish Baharat and Tunisian Baharat, and, the mixes are completely different. 

Palestinians use a Nine Spice Mix. Some of the ingredients - cardamom, cumin, clove and nutmeg - can be found in other spice mixes such as Baharat. However, I think the use of mace, which is the protective coating over the nutmeg seed, sets this mixture apart.  (Mace also happens to be the one spice that I did not have on hand, sending me to local Middle Eastern markets and Indian markets in search of it.)  

The key to this mixture -- and, in reality, any mixture -- is to use whole seeds rather than ground seeds.  There is something about toasting whole seeds and grinding them just before using the spice mixture that really does make a dish better.  Ground spices are great for cooking on the fly, but, when you are taking the time to make a nice meal, whole spices are an important part of the process of making a nice meal.

NINE SPICE MIX

Recipe from Reem Kassis, The Palestinian Table, pg. 24

Ingredients:

• 6 tablespoons allspice berries
• 6 cassia bark or cinnamon sticks
• 3 tablespoons coriander seeds
• 3 tablespoons black peppercorns
• 1 teaspoon cardamom seeds
• 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
• 10 cloves
• 2 blades of mace
• 1/2 nutmeg, crushed

Directions:

1. Toast the spices. Place all of the ingredients in a large skillet (frying pan) over medium low heat. Stir with a wooden spoon periodically to ensure that the spices do not burn, until you begin to smell the aroma of the spices, about 10 minutes.

2. Allow the spices to cool. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside to cool completely, about 1 hour.  This step is crucial because if the spices are not cooled properly, they will form a paste when ground rather a powder.

3. Grind the spices. Place all of the spices into a heavy duty spice grinder and grind until you achieve a fine powder consistency. Store the spice mix in an airtight container.  It will keep for several months, although the aroma will fade over time. 

SALAD

For this challenge, I really wanted to prepare something in addition to the main course.  I spent a lot of time paging through the recipes in The Palestinian Table trying to find a side or an appetizer that would complement the main course. In the end, I chose a Farmer Salad.

The author of The Palestinian Table, Reem Kassis, notes that, to Palestinians, it is known as Farmer's Salad.  To everyone else, it is known as Palestinian salad.  The core of this salad consists of finely diced tomatoes, onions, and dried mint, combined together with a dressing of olive oil, lemon and salt.  Other ingredients can be added to the salad, such as cucumbers, bell peppers, chiles, lemons and parsley.  Kassis notes a trick that she learned from her mother-in-law, which is to add a finely diced lemon to the salad. The lemon is supposed to give the salad a "kick."  I can say that is an accurate statement, because I could tell a difference between a bite of the salad with the lemon and a bite of the salad without the lemon. 

FARMER'S SALAD (PALESTINIAN SALAD)

Recipe from Reem Kassis, The Palestinian Table, pg. 104

Ingredients:

• 4 large beefsteak or 8 small tomatoes
• 2 small cucumbers
• 2 green chilies
• 1 whole unwaxed lemon
• 1 onion or 4-6 scallions
• 4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint leaves or 1 tablespoon crushed dried mint leaves
• 4 tablespoons olive oil
• 4 tablespoons lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon salt

Directions:

1. Prepare the tomatoes and cucumbers. Chop the tomatoes into very small cubes and put into a large bowl. Dice the cucumbers into similar sized small cubes and add to the tomatoes.  If you are using a traditional large cucumber, make sure to peel and seed it first. 

2. Prepare the rest of the ingredients. Seed the chiles (if you prefer even less heat, remove all the white membranes as well). Slice the lemon into thin rounds, discarding the top and bottom rounds and any seeds as well, then chop each round into small cubes. Add to the salad. Dice the onion very finely and add to the salad to the salad.  Finally throw in the chopped fresh mint leaves or dried mint.

3. Finish the dish. Drizzle with olive oil and lemon juice and sprinkle with salt. Toss very lightly with a large spoon and serve immediately.

MAIN COURSE

Farmer's Salad is typically a side to a kafta dish.  I am a very big fan of kafta, whether prepared as skewers, meatballs or meatloaf.  However, I really wanted to try something different for this challenge.  I wanted to find something that is quintessentially Palestinian, but requires me to do something other than grill or skewer meat. That is when I came across a recipe for Chicken, Onion and Sumac Casserole.

It was Reem Kassis' description of this dish that caught my eye and never let go.  As she writes, "[t]the combination of onions and sumac cooked in olive oil is one of the most traditional and uniquely Palestinian flavors you will ever come across."  She goes on to describe how this recipe is more common in the northern part of Palestine, where the onions and sumac are cooked with chicken and, on occasion, potatoes. The red hues of the final dish, which come from the use of the paprika and sumac, lend the dish its name of mhammar, also known as mussakhan. If I only had thought about purchasing taboon bread for this dish. 

Not only was this recipe very delicious, as described by Kassis, but it was very easy to make. If only someone other than me ate meat in the family, this dish could easily be inserted into the rotation of weekly meetings.

CHICKEN, ONION AND SUMAC CASSEROLE

Recipe from Reem Kassis, The Palestinian Table, pg. 114

Ingredients:

• 2.5 pounds of chicken pieces
• 6-7 onions diced
• 3-5 potatoes, cut into rounds
• 3 tablespoons sweet paprika
• 2 tablespoons sumac
• 1 tablespoon ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon Nine Spice Mix
• 1 tablespoon salt
• 3-4 tablespoon olive oil
• 2 tablespoons toasted pine nuts

Directions:

1. Prepare the casserole. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Put the chicken, onions, and potatoes, if using into a greased or non-stick, deep roasting dish. 

2. Continue with the casserole. In a small bowl, mix together all of the spices, salt and olive oil until evenly combined.  Pour the mixture into the roasting dish and use your hands to work the spice rub evenly into the onions, chicken and potatoes.  Make sure the chicken pieces are not crowding each other and that they are skin side up.

3. Cook the dish. Add 1/2 cup of water to the tray, cover with aluminum foil and bake in the oven for 1-1 1/4 hours until the chicken is fully cooked.  Check once or twice during cooking to make sure liquid has not entirely evaporated and top up with more water if necessary.  You don't want the dish to be completely dry but you also do not want a soup, more of a gravy sauce coating the onions.

4. Finish the dish. Once the chicken is cooked, remove the foil and increase the oven temperature (or preheat the broiler/grill).  Continue to cook for another 5-10 minutes to allow the chicken skin to crisp up.  Remove from the oven and allow to sit for 5 minutes before siting.  Sprinkler with toasted pine nuts. 

*    *    *

The challenge to cook a Palestinian main course went extremely well. The combination of chicken, onions, and sumac -- with the Palestinian Nine Spice Mix -- was one of the best dishes that I have made in recent weeks. It has also been an extremely long time since I roasted (as opposed to grilled or smoked) chicken.  Another successful challenge in the books.

However, there is still an issue. It is one that I cannot resolve myself.  However, I can do my part by trying to be open-minded and willing to learn. I can try the best to put myself "in the shoes" of others, figuratively, of course, by trying to learn more from the perspective of the people.  The whole point of my Around the World in 80 Dishes personal culinary challenge, as well as my side project Beyond Borders, is to learn more about people through their food. That is what I sought to do with this post. I wanted to go beyond the headlines, as well as the generalizations and characterizations, to take a moment to learn about the Palestinians as a people, and, what they share with everyone else around the world, namely, a love of food. And, based on this challenge, some really, really good food.  

Now, it is time to return to the regular challenges.  I have started to include upcoming challenges on my Around the World in 80 Dishes page.  Upcoming challenges include preparing main courses  from Dominica, Sri Lanka and Gabon.  Until next time ...

ENJOY!

Mirchi Qorma

Modern history defines Kashmir in a broad stroke. That stroke illustrates a land divided amongst three separate powers. There is Azad Kashmir and Gilgit Baltistan, which is under the control of Pakistan. As that stroke moves east, there is Jammu and Kashmir, along with Ladakh, both of which are controlled by India. The stroke finishes with Aksai Chin and the Trans-Kakoram Tract, which are under the control of China (and, which are administratively part of Xinjiang and/or Tibet). 

Looking back into the past, when one spoke of Kashmir, they were more than likely talking about the Kashmir Valley.  It is a region bookended by the Pir Panjal range to the southwest and the Himalaya Mountains to the northeast. It is also the historic home to the Kashmiri people.  They are the focus of this blog post. 

The Kashmiri people are a Dardic ethnic group, a group of Indo-Aryan peoples who live in northeastern Pakistan, eastern Afghanistan and Kashmir. It is a region that has seen conquerors come and go, including the Mughals, who ruled the region for about 200 years between the 1580s and the 1750s, the Afghanis, who ruled for a few decades; and the Sikhs, who ruled for about twenty years until they were supplanted by the Dogra Regime, who controlled the area until 1947. It was the Dogra Regime that perhaps best underscored the problem: a Hindu monarchy that exploited the masses of Muslim Kashmiri people.  As it was once described: 

The poverty of the Muslim masses is appalling. Dressed in rags and barefoot, a Muslim peasant presents the appearance of a starved beggar.... Most are landless laborers, working as serfs for absentee landlords.

This description is particularly jarring, especially given Kashmiri cuisine.  Dishes primarily feature rice, usually served with a protein, such as lamb or mutton. These include, by way of example, Machwangen Kormeh (meat cooked with spices and chilies, including Kashmiri chiles) and Yakhni (a yogurt-based mutton gravy flavored with bay leaves, cloves and cardamom). Indeed, meat features prominently in these dishes, which is something that naturally appeals to a die-hard carnivore like myself. 

A Wazwan Feast (from Auralcrave)

This dish has its place in Kashimiri cuisine. It is one of about 30 lamb dishes that are part of a 36-dish Kashmiri feast known as the wazwan. (In the Kashmiri language, waz means "cook" or cooking, while wan means "shop.") The feast celebrates the legacy of the 15th century Turko-Mongol conquerer Timur.  The conqueror brought with him 1,700 skilled workers.  Those workers included cooks, who would butcher the lambs for the dishes.  The cooks worked under the supervision of a wouste waze, who is the master chef.  As the dishes are completed, they are brought out to the guests, who sit at tables of four with a traem (a large bronze plate) on the middle of the table. The guests share the dishes as they are placed om the traem until the last dish - gushtaba (meatballs cooked in a spicy gravy - is served. The meatball recipe signifies the end of the feast. 

This recipe for Mirchi Qorma comes from Ahdoo's Hotel, which is located in Srinagar, the capital of Jammu-Kashmir.  A qorma is the Urdic word "to braise." In this case, it is the braising of pieces of lamb in a fiery chile sauce made from Kashmiri chiles.  The dish itself illustrates the influence of the past, as a qorma is a Mughal dish, typically made in the kitchens for the court of the rulers. The cooks first seared the lamb over high heat, typically with ghee, adding liquid to create the gravy or curry in which the meat continues to cook. This recipe basically follows that historical approach. The end product is one of the best curries that I have had in a very long time. 

MIRCHI QORMA

Recipe from Saveur

Serves 4-6

Ingredients:

• 6 dried Kashmiri chiles or pasilla chiles, stemmed
• 2 small red Thai chiles or 1 red jalapeno, stemmed 
• 2 pounds lamb shoulder
• 1 tablespoons black pepper corns
• 4 green cardamom pods
• 1 stick of cinnamon
• 1/4 cup canola oil
• 1 teaspooon kala jeera (black cumin seeds
• 10 cloves garlic, mashed into a paste
• 2 Indian (or regular) bay leaves
• 1/4 cup tamarind paste
• 3 tablespoons dried mint
• 1 tablespoon red chile powder, such as cayenne
• Kosher salt, to taste.

Directions:

1.  Cook the lamb.  Heat a six quart saucepan over medium-high heat.  Cook dried chiles until lightly toasted, 1 to 2 minutes.  Transfer to a food processor, add fresh chiles and 1 cup of water.  Puree until smooth and return to pan.  Add lamb, peppercorns, cardamom, cinnamon and 3 cups of water.  Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium low, cook, covered, until lamb is very tender, about one hour.  Transfer the lamb mixture to a bowl. 

2.  Finish the dish. Wipe the pan clean; heat oil over medium high.  Cook cumin seeds, garlic and bay leaves until seeds pop, about 1-2 minutes.  Add reserve lamb mixture, the tamarind paste, 1 teaspoon of mint, the chile powder and salt. Bring it to a boil and then reduce the heat to medium. Cook until thickened, about 1 hour.  Garnish with remaining mint. 

ENJOY!

Keralan Duck Curry

According to Food & Wine, duck is a staple in the backwaters of Kerala.  Those backwaters are a region of the Indian State that are cut by intricate canals and dotted by lakes, which draw the attention of ducks.  I found a recipe for Keralan Duck Curry at Food & Wine, which was contributed by Aniamma Phillip, who uses a whole duck for the dish.  The recipe was modified for the use of duck breasts and it just so happens that the local grocery store has been carrying duck breasts lately.  So, it seemed natural that I should make this dish.

The recipe also calls for the use of fresh or frozen curry leaves, which the grocery store did not carry.  I was only making 1/3 of the recipe, which would require two curry leaves.  While I could have made a second stop to pick up two leaves, I was very hungry and decided that I would make the recipe without the leaves.  However, I did include the leaves in the recipe and when I make this dish for guests, I will use curry leaves.

And, I know that I will make this dish for guests because I really like this recipe.  It provides just the right amount of spice and heat in a curry sauce that coats and clings to the duck breasts.  This is important because it ensures that practically every bite of the duck includes the delicious flavors of turmeric, cardamom, chiles and ginger.   

KERALAN DUCK CURRY

Recipe by Aniamma Philip and 

available at Food & Wine

Serves 6

Ingredients:

6 skinless boneless Peking Duck breast halves

1 teaspoon of turmeric

2 teaspoons of kosher salt

Seeds from 6 cardamom pods

6 whole cloves

1 teaspoon of whole black peppercorns

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil

3 medium red potatoes, peeled and sliced into 1/4 inch slices

6 fresh curry leaves 

6 garlic cloves, smashed

4 long, hot green chiles, seeded and thinly sliced crosswise

One 1 1/2 inch piece of ginger, peeled and julienned

1 medium red onion, sliced thinly

1 14 ounce can of unsweetened coconut milk

1/2 cup water

Directions:

1.  Prepare the duck breasts.   In a small bowl, mix 1/2 teaspoon of the turmeric with 2 teaspoons of kosher salt and rub over the duck breasts.  Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

2.  Prepare the spice mix.  Meanwhile, in a spice grinder, grind the cardamom seeds, cloves and peppercorns to a powder.  Transfer to a small bowl and stir in the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of turmeric.

3.  Begin preparing the curry.   In a large, deep skillet, heat the remaining two tablespoons of oil.  Add the duck breasts and cook over high heat until browned, about 2 minutes per side.  Transfer the breasts to a large plate.  In the same skillet, cook the curry leaves over moderate heat for 2 minutes.  Add the garlic, chiles and ginger.  Cook until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the onion and cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes.  Stir in the spice powder and cook, stirring until fragrant, about 3 minutes.  Return the duck to the skillet along with any accumulated juices, cover and cook over low heat for 5 minutes, turning the breasts a few times.  Return the duck breasts to the plate. 

4.  Continue cooking the curry. Open the coconut milk and spoon 1/4 cup of the thickened milk from the top and set aside.  Put the remaining coconut milk in a bowl and stir in the water.  Add the thinned coconut coconut milk to the skillet and simmer over moderately high heat for 10 minutes.  Reduce the heat to moderate.  Add the fried potato slices and simmer for 1 minute.  Add the duck breasts and simmer for 8 minutes, turning once.  Stir in the thickened coconut milk and simmer over low heat for 3 minutes.  Season with salt. Transfer the duck breasts to plates and spoon the potatoes and sauce around the duck and serve.

Just a note about the coconut milk.  Do not shake the can of coconut milk before opening to make sure that the thickened milk stays on top.  If cooking with homogenized coconut milk, add the entire can plus 1/2 cup of water.

PAIRING THIS RECIPE

Food & Wine suggests that an oaky red would overpower the complex flavors of the dish.  For that reason, the suggestion is a light bodied, berry-rich wine such as a California or Oregon Pinot Noir.  I decided upon a Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles, which is very berry-rich with smooth tannins, making it a good wine to go with this dish.  

ENJOY!

Around the World in 80 Dishes (Special): Tibet

As part of my Around the World in 80 Dishes culinary adventure, I decided that I would prepare four special challenges.  Each challenge would focus on a cuisine of a culture that does not have its own, formally recognized country. These challenges will also appear as part of my Beyond Borders project.

The first special challenge takes me to "Bod," which translates to "Tibet" or the "Tibetan Plateau."  That plateau is a vast stretch of land that has an average elevation in excess of 14,500 feet that is surrounded by even higher mountain ranges.  Several rivers cut through the plateau, including the Yangtze, Yellow, Indus, Ganges and Mekong Rivers. 

This geography has a definite impact upon agriculture.  Subsistence farming is the predominant form of agriculture, with Tibetans cultivating the few crops that can grow at that elevation.  The principal crop is barley, which, unlike wheat or rice, can fare well at higher altitudes.  The barley is ground into a flour to make a dough called tsampa, which is used to make bread.  The Tibetans also raise yaks, goats and sheep, which are an important part of their meat-eating tradition.  The eating of meat is necessary for the Tibetans, because the meat provides an important source of protein and fat that is not only useful, but necessary for life on the high plateau.

This meat-eating tradition also presents a dilemma, which has been documented Julia Moskin in an article published by the New York Times.  The majority of Tibetans practice Buddhism and abhor the taking of life ... any life.  This presents a problem when it comes to their cuisine, because it is full of yak, goat, and mutton dishes.  The "unofficial" dish is called Sha Momo or "Meat Momo," which is a dumpling made with a minced yak meat mixture.  While the unofficial dish may be a carnivore's delight, the Sha Momo represents a dilemma.  Nevertheless, the Tibetans have resolved that conflict.  Known as the "karmic load," Tibetans recognize that the killing of one yak is the same as killing one fish.  However, a yak feeds many more people than a fish.  Thus, if a creature must perish so that people can eat, Tibetans choose the yak.  Thus, Tibetans are able to minimize the "karmic load" by feeding many more people through the killing of many less creatures.

MAIN COURSE

Turning to the matter at hand, I decided that, for this special culinary challenge, I would make the "unofficial dish" of Tibet, Sha Momo. This is the first time that I made dumplings of this kind.  I have previously made Hushuur, as part of my challenge to make a main course from Mongolia.  Hushuur are a kind of "dumpling," shaped into half-moons and deep-fried.  Huushur are larger than Sha Momo and, looking back on the challenge, my Hushuur looked more like calzones when compared to the smaller, more refined Sha Momos.  And, I have to admit, the task seemed daunting.

Every Tibetan family has their own way to make momos; however, there are some general guidelines.  First, Sha Momos generally come in two shapes: round and the half moon.  I chose to make the round dumplings.  Second, the filling for Sha Momos obviously includes meat.  While I did not have any ground yak meat, I did substitute grass-fed, ground beef.  Third, momos can be prepared in different ways ... for a soup, steamed, or fried.  I decided to steam the momos.  With the parameters set, I moved on to making the momos from scratch....

SHA MOMO

 Recipe adapted from Yowangdu and National Public Radio

Makes 24 large dumplings or 32 medium dumplings

Ingredients (for the dough):

2 cups of unbleached flour or white all purpose flour

3/4 cup of just boiled water

Ingredients (for the filling):
3/4 pound ground beef (preferably chuck), coarsely chopped to loosen
1/2 cup finely chopped yellow onion
1/3 cup chopped Chinese chives or scallions (white and green parts)
2-1/2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
3 cloves garlic, minced and crushed into a paste
1 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns (or substitute black peppercorns),
     toasted in a dry skillet for 2 to 3 minutes, until fragrant,
     then crushed with a mortar and pestle
2 tablespoons canola oil
6 tablespoons water

Directions:

The dough after it has been kneaded.

1.  Make the dough.  Put the flour in the bowl and make a well in the center. Add 3/4 of a cup of hot water in a steady stream and use a wooden spoon to stir the flour. The goal is to evenly moisten the flour; and, it is okay to pause to stir the flour or to add water.  After the water has been added, knead the dough in the bowl to work out any lumps. If the dough does not come together easily, add water by the teaspoon. 

2.  Knead the dough.  After kneading the dough in the bowl, move the dough to a work surface.  Flour that only if it is necessary, and then use the flour sparingly. Continue to knead the dough with the heel of your hand for about 2 minutes. The result should be somewhat smooth and elastic.  Press on the dough and it should slowly bounce back, with a light impression of your finger remaining. Place the dough in a zip-top plastic bag and seal tightly closed, expelling excess air. Set aside to rest at room temperature for at least 15 minutes and up to 2 hours. The dough will steam up the plastic bag and become soft, which makes it easy to work with the wrappers. 

The filling before the liquid is added.

3.  Make the filling.  Combine the beef, onion, chives (or scallions), ginger, and garlic in a bowl. Stir and lightly mash the ingredients together with a fork or spatula.  In a separate bowl, stir together the salt, Sichuan peppercorns, oil, and water.  Pour the liquid mixture over the meat mixture and then stir with the fork or spatula to blend well. There should not be any visible large chunks of meat. To develop the flavors, cover with plastic wrap and set aside at room temperature for 30 minutes. The recipe makes about 2 cups of filling. (I had extra filling after I completed making the momos.)

4.  Make the dough wrappers.  Remove the dough from the bag. Put the dough on a lightly floured work surface and cut it in half. Put half back in the bag, squeezing out the air and sealing the bag to prevent drying.

Cutting the pieces for the wrappers.

Roll the dough into a 1-inch-thick log, and then cut it into the number of pieces required by the recipe. To cut even pieces, quarter the log first; the tapered end pieces should be cut a little longer than the rest. Weigh each piece of dough to be super precise, if you like. If your dough pieces are oval shaped, stand each one on a cut end and use your fingers to gently squeeze it into a round. The resulting squat cylinder resembles a scallop. This bit of advance work makes it easier to form a nice circle in the remaining steps.  (The forming of each piece into a round is not necessary, but you have some additional work when it comes to flattening the piece into a thin circle.)

To prevent the dough from sticking and to flatten it a bit, take each piece of dough and press one of the cut ends in flour, then flip it over and do the same on the other end; the dough will be sticky.

A small pan works well when flatting the pieces.

Next, flatten each piece of dough into a thin circle that is about 1/8 inch thick, either with rolling pin or with a heavy, flat-bottomed object.  Put the floured disk between the plastic squares and press down with the rolling pin or a heavy object to produce a circle about 1/8-inch thick. You may have to press more than once. Gently peel back the plastic from the wrapper.  Set aside the dough circle.  Repeat this process with the remaining dough pieces, setting each one to the side of the work area as you finish it. It is okay to overlap the wrappers slightly, but I tried to avoid any overlap of the dough circles because the dough was still a little sticky.

To finish the wrappers, take a wrapper and place it on the work surface, flouring the surface only as needed to keep the dough from sticking. Imagine a quarter-size circle in the center. This is what the Tibetans call the "belly" of the wrapper. the goal is to create a wrapper that is larger than its current size but retains a thick belly. This ensures an even distribution of dough after the wrapper's edge has been gathered and closed around the filling.

It is hard to see the "belly."

To keep a thick belly, use the rolling pin to apply pressure on the outer 1/2- to 3/4-inch border of the wrapper, as follows. Try to roll the rolling pin with the flat palm of one hand while using the other hand to turn the wrapper in the opposite direction. For example, as your right palm works the rolling pin in short, downward strokes from the center toward your body, the fingers of your left hand turn the disk counterclockwise about one-quarter of a turn between each stroke. Keep the thumb of the rotating hand near the center of the wrapper to guide the rolling pin and turn the wrapper.

If the wrapper sticks to the work surface or rolling pin, pause to dust the wrapper with flour and then continue. If you cannot get a wrapper thin enough on the first try, set it aside to relax for about 1 minute, and then roll again. Should the wrapper tear or be hopelessly misshapen, roll up the dough, let it rest for a few minutes, then press it again and roll it out. Resembling a flat fried egg, the finished wrapper does not need to be a perfect circle. Frilly edges are fine. The finished diameter of the wrapper depends on the dumpling. Wrappers are moderately thick and suitable for boiled, steamed, pan-fried, and deep-fried morsels.

As you work, line up the finished wrappers on your work surface; if you need extra space, use a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and dusted with flour. A bit of overlapping is fine, but avoid stacking the wrappers. When a batch of wrappers is formed, fill them before making wrappers out of the other portion of dough, or the wrappers may stick together as they wait for you. Alternatively, I filled the wrappers as I finished them, which provided more room on the work surface. 

The filling.

5.   Fill the wrappers.  Before assembling the dumplings, line steamer trays and/or a baking sheet with parchment paper. (If you are making the dumplings in advance, or plan to freeze them, lightly dust the paper with flour to avoid sticking.)

For each dumpling, hold a wrapper in a slightly cupped hand. Scoop up about 1 tablespoon of filling with a bamboo dumpling spatula, dinner knife, or fork and position it in the center of the wrapper, pressing and shaping it into a mound and keeping about 1/2 to 3/4-inch wrapper clear on all sides. Use your fingers to pleat and pinch the edge together to enclose the filling and form a closed satchel, or simply fold over to form a half-moon.

In the alternative, you can place the dough circle on the work surface and spoon a tablespoon of the filling into the middle of the circle.  You want the filling to sit on the "belly" of the dumpling.  You can then use your fingers to pull the sides up, pleat and pinch the edges of the momo together to form the satchel (or  fold the dough over to create the half-moon).

If you are steaming right away, place each finished dumpling in a steamer tray, sealed side up, and 1 inch away from the edge if you are using metal steamers. Repeat with the remaining wrappers, placing them in the steamer about 1/2 inch apart. If you don't have enough space on your steamer trays to steam all the dumplings at once, or if you are not steaming them right away, place the waiting ones on the prepared baking sheet, spaced a good 1/2 inch apart. 

Ready to steam.

6.  Steam the momos.  Steam the dumplings over boiling water for about 8 minutes, or until they have puffed slightly and become somewhat translucent. Remove each tray and place it atop a serving plate.

HOT SAUCE

One of the sauces or condiments that are served with Momos is called Sepen, which is a Tibetan hot sauce made from dried red chile peppers.  I tried to determine which chiles are used in Tibetan cuisine; however, apart from stories about the use of spicy chiles, I was unable to find the exact chiles.  I decided to use dried Sanaam chiles, which are grown and cultivated in nearby India.  Sanaam chiles have about 40,000 Scoville Heat Units. These chiles are definitely spicy, which falls within the description of the chiles used to make Sepen. If you do not like spicy foods, choose a pepper that has less Scoville Heat Units, like a guajillo, Anaheim or serrano chile. 

SEPEN (TIBETAN HOT SAUCE)

Recipe adapted from Lonsang Wongdu and

available at the New York Times

Ingredients:

1 cup whole dried small red chile peppers

1 teaspoon whole Sichuan peppercorns
     (optional, you can substitute black peppercorns)

1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro stems and leaves

2 teaspoons minced garlic

2 tablespoons minced ginger

Directions:

1.  Rehydrate the peppers.  If possible, soak chiles overnight in plenty of cold water. If time is short, cover chiles with boiling water and soak for 20 minutes. Drain and discard soaking liquid. 

2.  Blend the ingredients.  If using peppercorns, coarsely grind in a mortar or spice grinder. In a blender or mortar, combine all the ingredients with 2 tablespoons of water and grind until smooth (the seeds of the chiles will remain whole). The finished sauce should be as thick as ketchup; thin with water as needed.

BEVERAGE

Finally, to round out the meal, I decided that I would make a beverage to enjoy either with the Momos or afterwards.  After doing a little research, I chose a recipe for Po Cha or Tibetan Butter Tea.  This recipe is basically a black tea with a little butter and milk.  This recipe is similar to the Suutei Tsai or Mongolian Milk Tea that I made as part of my challenge to prepare a main course from Mongolia. 

Ordinarily, I am someone who does not like milk or anything in my tea.  However, I have to admit that the addition of the butter and milk to this tea was actually good. 

PO CHA (TIBETAN BUTTER TEA)

Recipe from Recipes Wiki

Serves 4

Ingredients:

5 to 6 cups of water

2 bags of black tea

1/4 teaspoon of salt

2 tablespoons of unsalted butter

1/2 cup of milk or 1 teaspoon of milk powder

Directions:

1.  Prepare the water.  Boil the water, then turn down the fire.  Add two bags of tea in the water and boil again for a couple of minutes.  Take the tea bags out.

2.  Prepare the tea.  Pour the tea, salt, butter and milk into a blender.  Blend the mixture for two or three minutes.  Serve immediately.

*     *     *

In the end, my challenge to prepare a Tibetan meal was a success.  I was able to prepare the Sha Momo, and, they were very delicious.  I have to admit that I deviated a little from the recipe, especially when it came to assembling the momos, because I found it easier to prepare the momos placing them on the flat surface rather than stuffing and sealing them in my hands.  I also think I could have rolled out the skins a little more because the sides on a few were perhaps a little too thick. Still, for a rookie, I think I did a great job.

As for the rest of the meal, it was also an outstanding success.  The Sepen was a great condiment for the Sha Momo, as the heat from the chilies enhanced the flavor of the meat, garlic, and ginger flavors in the filling of the dumpling.  The Po Cha offered a smooth, milky escape from the heat of the Sepen.  It is the perfect beverage for the meal because, after cooling the heat from the chiles, the Po Cha allows the diner to start the process all over again.  (I should add that I found a recipe for a Tibetan rice beer, but, I did not have enough time to make it. That will have to wait for another day and another post.)

Notwithstanding my own personal critiques, I still think I successfully completed the challenge.  I now turn my attention to the next chapter of my culinary adventures, beginning with my 21st challenge, which will require me to make a main course from the cuisine of .... 

ENJOY!

Chicken Hawayil

One of the most interesting aspects of my personal culinary adventures is the exploration into different spice mixes.  Over the past couple years, I have made several spice mixes.  These blends include Egyptian Baharat, Libyan Bzaar, Keralan Panni Ularthiyathu and two different versions of Berbere, Ethiopian and Eritrean.  Recently, I was looking for a new spice mix to try in connection with grilling a whole chicken.  I decided to make my search more interesting by focusing upon those blends or mixes that incorporate cardamom.  This focus basically narrowed my search to spice mixes used in Indian and Middle Eastern cooking.

As I conducted my search, I fully expected to find and use an Indian spice mix.  I was very surprised when I came across a few recipes for Hawayil, which is a traditional spice mix used in Yemeni cuisine.  Although the recipes varied in terms of the ingredients used to make the mix, the core spices are black peppercorns, cardamom seeds, saffron, cloves and turmeric.  Some other recipes include other spices, such as cumin seeds and coriander seeds.  Ultimately, I decided to make a Hawayil spice mix using the core spices, although I used both green and black cardamom pods, and I added cumin seeds.  (For some reason, I did not have any coriander seeds in my spice drawer; however, I added the coriander to the recipe below for future reference.) 

The recipes also differed as to the preparation of the spice mix.  Some recipes called for toasting the seeds, which is usually done to help release the aromas and flavors.  Other recipes omitted this step.  From what I can tell from my research, toasting the seeds is part of the traditional method for making Hawayil.  Therefore, I adapted the recipe for Hawayil to provide for the toasting of all of the seeds (black peppercorns, cardamom seeds, cumin seeds, cloves and coriander seeds).  The toasted seeds are then added to the spice grinder, along with the saffron and turmeric. 

Overall, this is a very good spice mix.  It worked very well with chicken; and, I think it could also work well with lamb or goat.  I will definitely try this mix with other meats.

CHICKEN HAWAYIL

Hawayil recipe adapted from Ya Salam Cooking

Serves 4

Ingredients (for the chicken):

1 whole four pound chicken, rinsed and spatch-cocked

Salt, to taste

Ingredients (for the Hawayil):

6 teaspoons of black peppercorns

2 teaspoons of cumin seeds

3 teaspoons of caraway seeds
1 teaspoon of green cardamom seeds

1 teaspoon of black cardamom seeds

1 teaspoon of saffron threads

2 teaspoons of whole cloves

2 teaspoons of coriander seeds

2 teaspoons of ground turmeric

Directions:

1.  Prepare the Hawayil.  Heat a small pan on medium heat.  Toast the black peppercorns, cumin seeds, caraway seeds, cardamom seeds, cloves, and coriander seeds for a couple of minutes, moving the seeds to prevent burning.  Once the seeds become fragrant, remove them from the heat and add them to a spice grinder with the turmeric and saffron.  Grind the seeds until they are a powder.  Season the chicken with some salt and add the hawayil rub to all sides of the chicken.  Let the chicken rest in the refrigerator for about one-half hour.

2.  Grill the chicken.  Heat the grill to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Add the chicken, skin side up.  Grill for about twenty minutes.  Flip the chicken and grill for fifteen minutes.  Return the chicken to skin side up, and continue to grill for about five minutes more. Let the chicken rest for ten to fifteen minutes.

3.  Finish the dish.  After the chicken has rested, break the chicken down into pieces:  2 breasts, 2 thighs, 2 legs and 2 wings.  Serve on a platter. 

ENJOY!

Texas Barbecue Brisket

I love all forms of barbecue.   If I have the option, I always get the barbecue sampler or platter, with two or three different types of 'cue (pulled pork, brisket, links, ribs, chicken, etc.).  However, if that option is unavailable, then there is a definite order to how I order barbecue.  I almost always go with pulled pork, especially if it is done in an Eastern Carolina style.  I think that it is because that represents the one type of barbecue that I have the least access to ... eastern Carolina whole hog barbecue.  The order continues with brisket, ribs and then chicken.

My preference for pulled pork also carries over to my own smoking.  I usually smoke pork shoulders, such as when I made Big Bob Gibson's Eight Time World Championship Pork Shoulder or my own Raging Pig Pulled Pork.  While I have also made smoked salmon and smoked mullet, I have not really ventured into smoking other types of meat.  I did try to smoke a brisket once, but I would hardly describe it a success, let alone "blog-worthy." So, I decided that I would try to smoke a brisket once again.  

Brisket is synonymous with Texas barbecue.  There are four, distinct types of Texas barbecue: Eastern, Central, Southern and Western.  One of the things that differentiate these types of barbecue is the wood: Eastern Texas barbecue uses hickory wood, while central Texas barbecue uses indirect grilling over oak wood and western Texas barbecue uses more direct grilling over mesquite wood.  As I looked at my bags of wood, I realized that I had a lot of mesquite wood.  So, I decided to smoke the brisket in the Western Texas style (i.e., using mesquite wood), but with some inspiration and techniques drawn from the Central Texas style, such as indirect grilling.

I immediately realized that I was behind the proverbial eight-ball.  Generally speaking, when one smokes a brisket, they should use a "packer cut."  This is the cut of the brisket that includes the fatty point of the meat.  Most grocery stores sell the flat cut, which does not include the fatty point.  As I stared down at the brisket on the cutting board, I realized that I had a flat cut.  I knew that I would have to adjust cooking temperatures to ensure that the brisket would not dry out.  Low and slow would have to be lower and slower. 

One can do only so much with a flat cut.  While I got a great smoke ring, the meat was still a little dry. I kept the temperatures between 225 and 250 degrees Fahrenheit (and, for most of the smoke, it was at the lower end).  Still, cooking is about trial and error, that is the only why you learn.  I've already got information on where I can get a packer cut.  So, the next time, it will be different ....  

TEXAS BARBECUE BRISKET

Adapted from Obsessive Compulsive BBQ and 

inspired by Aaron Franklin's advice in Food & Wine

Serves Many

Ingredients:

1 brisket (preferably a packer cut)

1/4 cup of freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup of kosher salt

Vegetable or canola oil.

Directions:

1.  Prepare the brisket.  Trim any excess fat off of the top side (the meat side) of the brisket.  Brush a little vegetable oil or canola oil on the top side of the brisket, as well as the sides of the meat.  There is no need to brush any oil on the fat side.  Apply the salt and pepper rub to the top side of the brisket and all of the sides. 

2.  Prepare the fire.  Place a few chunks of wood in a bucket full of water. Start a chimney and prepare a fire in the bottom of the smoker.  Once the temperature reaches the range between 225 degrees and 250 degrees Fahrenheit, add a couple chunks of mesquite wood.  

3.   Smoke the brisket.  Add the brisket, fat side down, and close the smoker.  The brisket is going to cook for at least 1 hour to 1 1/4 hours per pound, until the brisket reaches approximately 185 degrees Fahrenheit.   I used a five pound brisket, so I was looking at about six hours total.  After about half of the smoke time, combine about 1/2 cup of water and 1/2 of Worcestershire sauce in a sprayer and spritz the brisket.  As an alternative, use a basting mop and just delicately baste the meat.  Whatever you do, do not cause the rub to run off of the brisket.  Make sure that the temperature stays within the 225-250 degree range throughout the cooking time.  You can also add a couple more mesquite chunks, but be cautious with the wood.   Too much wood may result in an "over-smoking" of the meat, with the brisket seeming like it had been bathed in Liquid Smoke.

4.  Rest the brisket.  After the cooking time, let the brisket rest for at least forty-five minutes, if not an hour.  Slice the brisket against the grain.

PAIRING THIS RECIPE

Obviously, the best thing that goes with barbecue -- at least for me -- is beer.  When one thinks of Texas, thoughts turn not only to brisket, but to Shiner Bock.  Other beers work just as well, such as a pale ale or a pilsner.  

ENJOY!