Duck Fesenjan

This particular dish, Duck Fesenjan, is a Persian stew -- a koresh or khoresht -- traditionally prepared with duck and a sauce made with walnuts and pomegranate. Much like the broader Persian cuisine from which it comes, the history of fesenjan dates back centuries. Indeed, some have traced that history as far back as the Sassanid era, which was from 224 C.E. to 651 C.E., and written recipes date back to at least the thirteenth or fourteenth centuries. 

Indeed, the long culinary history is as evident as the ingredients and cooking processes set forth in the black and white of the recipe. The use of pomegranate in Persian cooking predates the Islamic-era. Cooks used pomegranate in dishes to symbolize abundance, fertility, and/or the beauty of nature. Likewise, the cooking process of slow roasting or braising meat with fruits and nuts is also a centuries-old cooking technique in Persia cuisine. In this particular case, the combination of duck and walnuts was said, according to ancient Persian texts, to personify perfection. Indeed, if prepared properly (or even close to properly), then the resulting dish is perhaps as close as one can come to culinary perfection. 

The cooking process defines the dish. Walnuts need to be ground into fine crumbs, which can be done with a food processor or a spice grinder (although the latter takes more time). As the walnuts are ground, they will release their oils. The ground walnuts function as a thickener for the stew, aided by the pomegranate molasses, which also gives the stew its darker and richer flavor. The thickness and color are only achieved by cooking the ingredients for a long time. 

The recipe also calls for the use of chicken stock or duck stock. If you are using duck legs for the stew, then you should use chicken stock. If you use a whole duck, as I did, then I would consider making your own impromptu duck stock. You can break down the duck as you would a chicken into pieces (chicken breasts, wings, leg quarters -- or legs and thighs). You will then have the backbone and the neck, along with other bones, that can be combined with two chopped carrots, two chopped celery stalks, one chopped onion, a couple of bay leaves, a tablespoon of black peppercorns, a sprig (or two) of fresh rosemary and a sprig (or two) of fresh thyme. Also, as an option, you can add a tablespoon of dried juniper berries.  Add enough water to cover the duck, bring it to a boil, and reduce the heat to let it simmer for at least an hour (or, more preferably, longer).  This process is adjusted from the duck broth recipe created by Hank Shaw on his website, Hunter, Angler, Gardener, Cook, which is one of my go-to resources. I simplified the recipe and adjusted the amounts because, unlike Hank Shaw, I was not looking to make a lot of stock. 

The extra effort to make duck stock is clearly worth it, because Fesenjan is such an iconic dish in Persian cuisine. It is also considered a dish of the rich or upper classes, as illustrated by the Persian saying, "he behaves as if he has had partridge and fesenjan."  Although that saying typically refers to someone showing off or behaving pretentiously, the dish itself is often the centerpiece of festivals, like Nowruz, weddings, or other celebrations. Fesenjan is also popular among the Iranian Jewish community and diaspora, who enjoy the dish in connection with Passover or Rosh Hashanah. 

Finally, fesenjan is always served with rice, and, Persian cuisine offers a variety of rice dishes. However, given the status of the dish, I felt it was appropriate to serve it with Javaher Polow, or Persian Treasured Rice.  Together, the meal was fit for royalty, perhaps Shashid I or Khosrow I. However, if one does not have the time to make treasured rice, a standard Persian white rice recipe will do. 

DUCK FESENJAN

Recipe from Hunt Gather Cook

Serves 4

Ingredients:

• 1 tablespoon duck fat or clarified butter
• 3 pounds duck legs or 1 duck 
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 1/2 cup pomegranate molasses
• 2 cups walnut halves, toasted and finely ground
• 2 cups duck stock (or chicken stock)
• 1/4 teaspoon saffron
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
• Pomegranate seeds, optional, for garnish
• 3 tablespoons chopped parsley, for garnish

Directions:

1. Prepare the duck. If the duck is fat, pierce the skin of the legs (and other parts, if using a whole duck) all over with a need or the sharp point of a knife, do not pierce the meat. (For most wild ducks, you won't need to do this.) Salt well and set aside. 

2. Brown the duck. In a large sauté pan, heat the tablespoon of duck fat over medium heat. Add the duck legs (and other parts, if using a whole duck), skin side down and brown slowly, rendering the fat. Remove the legs (or other parts) as they brown and set aside. 

3. Continue the dish. Add the chopped onion and sauté until translucent. Add the duck legs and other parts to the pan, skin side up. Add enough duck stock (or chicken stock), cover and simmer gently for 1 hour. 

4. Continue to prepare the stew. Stir in the ground walnuts, pomegranate molasses and the spices. Cover and cook over very low heat until the meat is tender, stirring every 20 minutes or so to keep the walnuts from sticking to the bottom of the pan. Turn off the heat and add more stock or salt to taste. You want the stew to be very thick but not pasty. 

5. Finish the dish. Garnish with pomegranate seeds and parsley. Serve with rice. 

PEACE.