A (Non-Traditional) New England Clam Chowder

I am back.  It has been several months since I have posted anything on this blog.  I have been cooking, although not as much as I would like or with the experimentation that fuels this blog.  The problem is that I have not been writing blog posts, because things have been very busy around here.

Still, the recipes mull around in the back of my mind.  One such recipe is this New England Clam Chowder.  I made this chowder for the Savage Boleks Super Bowl Party, as the dish representing New England.   

Indeed, clam chowder is a quintessential dish in New England.  The history of the dish can be traced back to at least the 1700s, but it rose to prominence in the region in the early part of the 19th century.  The chowder gained a wider audience when it was described by Herman Melville in the classic, Moby Dick.  Melville described clam chowder served by Trys Pot, a chowder house in Nantucket, Massachusetts.  Melville wrote in some rather tasty terms:

However, a warm savory steam from the kitchen served to belie the apparently cheerless prospect before us. But when that smoking chowder came in, the mystery was delightfully explained.  Oh, sweet friends! hearken to me.  It was made of small juicy clams, scarcely bigger than hazel nuts, mixed with pounded ship biscuit and salted pork cut up into little flakes; the whole enriched with butter, and plentifully seasoned with pepper and salt. 

Fast forward one hundred and sixty six years and you find myself getting ready to make a big pot of New England Clam Chowder for my family and friends.  While I have made clam chowder in the past, this dish represents my best effort to date. And, after much thought, I think there are two reasons for that.

First, I decided to alter the recipe in one major way.  The original recipe, which I got from Bon Appetit called for cherrystone clams, which would be chopped into "bite size pieces."  I bought littleneck clams, which are smaller than cherrystone clams (you get about 7-10 littleneck clams per pound, while you get 6 to 9 cherrystone clams per pound).  Given they were smaller, I decided not to chop the clams.  This left small, whole clams in the chowder.  Something that I think would be reminiscent of, albeit slightly larger than, the "hazel nut" sized clams described by Herman Melville.

Second, I decided to use hickory smoked bacon, rather than just plain old bacon. This choice goes against convention.  Traditional clam chowders are made with salt pork, which is not smoked.  Most restaurants substitute un-smoked bacon.  The rationale behind the use of un-smoked bacon is that one wants to enjoy the brininess of the clams, which could get lost with smoked bacon.  Given I decided to keep the clams whole, rather than chop them into pieces, I decided to take a risk and use smoked bacon.  I think the risk paid off, because it added another layer of flavor to the chowder.

In the end, I think my family and friends enjoyed this chowder.  I certainly liked this chowder a lot.  So much that the thought of writing this blog post persevered even through the most busiest of times.  There are other posts like this one, although they will have to wait for another day.

NEW ENGLAND CLAM CHOWDER

Recipe adapted from Bon Appetit

Serves many

Ingredients:

10 pounds of littleneck clams, scrubbed

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

8 ounces bacon, cut into 1/2 inch pieces

2 celery stalks, minced

1 large onion, minced

1 garlic clove, minced

6 cups clam juice (or reserved broth from steaming clams)

2 1/2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled, cut into 1/2 inch pieces

1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped

1 bay leaf

2 tablespoons cornstarch

2 cups heavy cream

Kosher salt

Freshly ground pepper

Flat leaf parsley, chopped

Oyster crackers

Directions:

1.  Steam the clams.  Bring clams and 4 cups of water to a boil in a large pot over high heat.  Cook until clams just open, 8 to 10 minutes (discard any that do not open).  using a large slotted spoon, transfer clams to a large rimmed baking sheet; set broth aside.  Let clams cool slightly, pull meat from shells and discard the shells.  

2.  Make the base.  Melt butter in a large heavy pot over medium heat.  Add bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, until fat is rendered and bacon begins to brown, about 8 minutes.  Add celery, onions and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is translucent, about 10 minutes.  Add reserved broth (or 6 cups of clam juice), potatoes, thyme and bay leaf.  Bring chowder base to a simmer.  Cook until potatoes are tender, about 20 to 25 minutes.  

3.  Add cornstarch slurry.  Stir cornstarch and 2 tablespoons of water in a small bowl to form a slurry.  Stir slurry into chowder base.  Return to a boil to thicken.

4.  Finish the dish.  Remove base from heat.  Discard bay leaf.  Stir in reserve clams and cream  Season with salt (if needed, because the brininess of clams varies) and pepper.  Divide chowder among bowls and garnish with the parsley and serve with oyster crackers.

ENJOY!

Spicy Pork Sausage Sandwiches

Every year, the Savage Boleks host a Super Bowl party; and, for our seventh such party -- Savage Boleks Super Bowl Party VII -- we decided to prepare a recipe from each of the cities or states represented by the two teams playing in the big game.  Super Bowl XLVIII was a contest between Seattle and Denver.  The obvious choice for Seattle is a salmon burger, and, I found a recipe for Salmon Burgers from Pike's Place Market.  The only question was what would me make that represents Denver or the State of Colorado.

I did some research for sandwiches or snacks that are quintessential Denver or Colorado.  My efforts produced of videos of people eating fried Rocky Mountain oysters.  Needless to say, I don't have access to those "oysters" and, even if I did, I do not think I would have had guests willing to eat them.  Bottom line, I had very little to go with. 

In such a case, where I have nothing, I have my "last resort."  It is a book called Sunday Night Football Cookbook.  This cookbook has recipes for each of the teams.  There are some recipes from players, like Fred Taylor's Shrimp Gumbo and Shawne Merriman's Shepard Pie.  However, for the most part, the recipes are provided by chefs who have restaurants in the host cities.  Denver was represented by two recipes: (1) Spicy Pork Sausages with Mustard and Horseradish; and, Warm Bittersweet-Chocolate Cupcakes.  Given I don't bake, the process of elimination was fairly easy.

The sausage recipe comes from Chef Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson, who is the chef of Frasca Food and Wine in Denver.  A winner of the James Beard Foundation's award for the Best Chef Southwest, Chef Mackinnon-Patterson is inspired by the cuisine of Friuli, which is part of the region known as Friuli-Venezia Giuli.  The food and wine of this region has influences drawn not only from Italy, but also neighboring Austria and Slovenia.  Chef Mackinnon-Patterson's sausage recipe gives a nod to Friuli cuisine with its use of prosciutto, because Friuli is well known for Prosciutto San Danielle.  I decided to give a further nod to the region with respect to the wine.  While the recipe calls for 1/4 cup of a non-descript "white wine," I found a Chardonnay from Friuli, which seemed like the best wine to use given the source of the recipe.  

Finally, this relatively simple recipe calls for making the sausage into patties.  If you want a challenge, you can do what I did.  Apart from tripling the recipe for the party, I used a meat grinder to stuff the sausage in casings.  I had always wanted to use the old school meat grinder that was given to me as a present from my sister and brother in law.  This recipe provided the first opportunity for me to use the grinder and, coincidentally, the first time that I made sausage by hand. Fortunately, Clare's parents were in town and they provided some very invaluable assistance as we worked to make nearly ten pounds of handmade sausage.  I am very grateful for their help.  Without their assistance, the sausage would never have been completed in time for the party.

SPICY PORK SAUSAGE SANDWICHES

Recipe from Frasca Food & Wine, 

from the Sunday Night Football Cookbook, pg. 124

Serves 6-8

Ingredients:

2 1/2 pounds of ground pork loin

12 ounces prosciutto or speck or combination, minced

1/4 cup of white wine

2 tablespoons salt

1 tablespoon cracked black pepper

1 tablespoon red pepper flakes

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

6 to 8 Kaiser rolls, split and toasted

Dijon-style mustard

Prepared horseradish

Directions:

1.  Prepare the sausage.  In a large bowl, combine the pork, prosciutto, wine, salt, cracked pepper, red pepper flakes, and cheese.  Cover and refrigerate for 24 hours.  Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.  Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.  Form the pork mixture into 6 to 8 patties and arrange them on the prepared baking sheet.  Alternatively, you can buy some pork casings and stuff the sausages, which is what I did in this case.   Just soak the casings in water for 30 minutes to 1 hour and then rinse them very well.  I have an old school meat grinder, the cast iron kind that you crank by hand.  Follow the instructions for the meat grinder and stuff the sausage. 

2.  Bake or grill the sausage.  Bake the sausage patties for about 20 minutes until cooked through. You can also preheat a grill to about 350 degrees and cook the sausages for the same period of time, flipping the sausage once after about 10 minutes. 

3.  Plate the dish.  Serve hot on the rolls with mustard and horseradish.

ENJOY!

Pike's Place Salmon Burgers

The Pike's Place Market is one the most well known symbols of the city of Seattle.   It opened on August 17, 1907, the result of a proposal by Seattle City Councilman Thomas Revelle, who proposed the idea of a public market where both farmers could sell their goods directly to the city's residents.  According to the market's website, Councilman Revelle proclaimed, "the Market is yours. I dedicate it to you and may it prove of benefit to you and your children. It is for you to protect, defend, and uphold and it is for you to see that those who occupy it treat you fairly. … This is one of the greatest days in the history of Seattle."  For more than 100 years, I think the citizens of Seattle have upheld their responsibilities to protect, defend and uphold that market and, during that time, the market and its vendors have provided a lot to the citizens, including this one particular recipe for Pike's Place Salmon Burgers.

I happened to find this recipe when I was preparing for our annual Super Bowl Party.  With each game, the challenge is to make sandwiches or snacks that are representative of the city or state whose teams are playing in the game.  Super Bowl XLVIII featured the Denver Broncos vs. the Seattle Seahawks.  As the conference championships came to a close, I immediately knew that I would be making a salmon burger to represent the city of Seattle.  I just needed a recipe.

I found that recipe on the NBC Today website.  The recipe comes from the Pike's Place Fish Guys, Justin Hall and Anders Miller, and can be found in their cookbook, In the Kitchen with the Pike's Place Fish Guys.  The  Fish Guys give a relatively straightforward introduction to the dish: These are the very same patties that seem to fly out of the case at Pike Place Fish. They are great served on their own or with your favorite sauce, such as tartar or dill sauce. We think the best way to serve them is on a brioche bun, with a little arugula, tomato, and a slice of Walla Walla sweet onion on top. This might be the best salmon burger ever. 

The "best salmon burger ever"?  That is a pretty bold claim. I will say that this recipe produces a great salmon burger.  It is definitely better with the tomato, sweet onion and arugula.  While it is a great burger, and perhaps the best Northwestern-style salmon burger, I personally think my beautiful Angel's Salmon Burgers are the best salmon burgers ever, especially smoked on a cedar plank and served with ancho guacamole. 

 

PIKE'S PLACE SALMON BURGERS

Recipe from NBC Today 

Serves 4

Ingredients (for the burgers):

1 pound boneless, skinless, wild salmon, finely chopped
4 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon rub (see recipe below)
1 teaspoon Northwest Seafood Seasoning (see recipe below)
1 cup panko crumbs

Ingredients (for the rub):
1/3 cup packed light brown sugar
1/2 cup dried cilantro
1 1/2 tablespoons fennel seed
1 1/2 tablespoons garlic pepper seasoning
1 tablespoon fine sea salt
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon ground celery seed
1/4 cup dried granulated onion
1 1/2 tablespoons of ground chipotle chile

Ingredients (for the Northwest Seafood Seasoning):
1/3 cup dried minced garlic
1/3 cup dried granulated onion
1 tablespoon fine sea salt
4 teaspoons granulated lemon peel
1/3 cup dried dill
1/3 cup paprika
2 tablespoons celery seed
1/2 cup dried parsley
1/4 cup medium grind black pepper

Directions:

1.  Prepare the rub: Combine all of the ingredients (brown sugar, paprika, cilantro, fennel seed, garlic pepper, salt, celery seed, onion, and chipotle) in a bowl and mix well. Store in a covered container for at least 6 months.

2.  Prepare the Northwest Seafood Seasoning: Combine all of the ingredients (garlic, onion, salt, lemon peel, dill, paprika, celery seed, parsley, and pepper) in a bowl and mix well. Store in a covered container for at least 6 months.

3.  Prepare the burgers. Place the chopped salmon in a large bowl and add 2 teaspoons of the oil, the rub, and the seafood seasoning. Mix thoroughly with your hands. Add the panko crumbs and mix to combine.  Form the mixture evenly into 4 patties, packing them firmly around the edges so they don't fall apart. Each patty should be between 1/2 and 3/4 inch thick.

4.  Cook the burgers.  Preheat a skillet (cast iron works well) over medium heat for 5 to 10 minutes. Add the remaining 2 teaspoons of oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pan. When the oil is nearly smoking, add the patties and cook for 3 minutes. Turn carefully with a spatula and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes. The patties may also be grilled over medium-high heat for the same amount of time.

5.  Plate the dish.  Toast the ciabatta buns or sandwich buns for a couple of minutes.  Place a burger on the bottom half of the bun and top with a slice of tomato, some thin slices of onion and some arugula.

ENJOY!

Veal and Pork Meatball Sandwiches

There is this sandwich shop called The Sentinel in San Francisco.  Zagat's Guide tells of long lines at the take-out only shop.  It was opened by chef Dennis Leary.  After having served as the chef at Rubicon, Chef Leary decided to downsize to a small shop, one that would serve simpler, yet authentic fare for breakfast and lunch.  The result is the Sentinel.

I have never eaten at the Sentinel; and, until a few weeks ago, I never even knew about the restaurant.  I was researching recipes, looking for an appetizer or sandwich that I could use to represent San Francisco at the Savage Boleks Super Bowl Party VI.  I had already had the recipe that would represent Baltimore, the Charm City's classic, Baltimore Pit Beef with Tiger Sauce. That sandwich originated on Pulaski Highway, sold by restaurants like Chaps.  I needed a similar type of recipe to represent San Francisco.  That is when I came across The Sentinel.  I looked at its menus, and I came across a menu item ... Veal and Pork Meatball Sandwich, with cabbage. I thought that this recipe could work for a Super Bowl Party.

The only problem is that I did not have a recipe.  Chef Leary has not posted any recipes for the dishes that he creates or makes.  I scoured the Internet and eventually found a recipe for pork and veal meatballs.  I decided to make a few, very minor alterations to the recipe, such as making the meatballs larger than the size called for in the recipe.  The Italian side of my family seemed to be calling out to me for bigger meatballs.  They got their wish.  I also used breadcrumbs instead of stale bread for the meatballs, and adding more dried herbs to the tomato sauce.  I think these modifications worked well.  

The one thing I would have done differently is add some additional herbs and spices to the meatballs themselves.  The recipe calls for the use of fresh oregano, which is fine.  However, it is not as potent in terms of aroma and flavor as dried oregano.  I would have also added some basil and some crushed red pepper, both of which are usually standards for when I make meatballs.  If I felt a little adventurous, maybe some dried thyme or dried parsley would be added to the mix. 

Nevertheless, in the end, I think the recipe worked well.  I do not know how it fared being pitted head to head against Baltimore Pit Beef at a Super Bowl Party held about one hour away from Charm City.  I think the outcome may have been reflected in the final score of the big game itself. Who knows? The one thing that I know is that this is a fairly easy dish to make for a party, which means that I'll be making it again. 

VEAL AND PORK MEATBALL SANDWICHES

Recipe for the meatballs adapted from Tiny Test Kitchen

Serves 4-6

Ingredients (for the meatballs):

1 pound of ground veal

1 pound of ground pork

1/4 cup organic whole milk

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 small yellow onion, finely chopped

1 egg, lightly beaten

2 tablespoons parsley, finely chopped

1 tablespoon fresh oregano, finely chopped

1 tablespoon of fresh flour, for dusting
1/4 cup dried breadcrumbs

Ingredients (for the sauce):
2 tablespoons of olive oil
2 garlic cloves
1 28 ounce can of crushed tomatoes (preferably San Marzano)
2 tablespoons of dried basil
2 tablespoons of dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon of crushed red pepper

Ingredients (for the sandwiches):
1/2 head of cabbage, sliced thinly
Hoagie rolls

Directions:
1.  Saute the onions and garlic.  Heat 9 inch frying pan over medium heat.  Add oil to hot pan.  Add onion and cook for 4 minutes, stirring occasionally, until soft.  Add garlic, cook for 1 minute and make sure it does not color.  Let cool.  While the onions and garlic are cooking, add bread crumbs and milk in a small bowl, stir to combine.

2.  Make the meatballs.  In a large bowl, combine cooled onion and garlic, milk and crumbs, pork, veal, egg, parsley and oregano.  Season with a sprinkle of kosher salt and a couple grinds of pepper.  Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.  Form 1 inch meatballs and place them 3 inches apart on the lined baking sheets.  (You should have 3 rows of 6 on each sheet).  Place flour into a sieve or sifter and dust meatballs with flour.

3.  Bake the meatballs.  Preheat the oven to 390 degrees Fahrenheit. Place meatballs in oven and cook for 20 minutes.

4.  Make the sauce.  Heat oil in large sauce pan.  Add garlic, cook for 1 minute, stirring occasionally, making sure it does not color.  Add tomatoes, reduce heat to medium, to prevent splitting and leave to cook for 15-20 minutes.

5.  Add meatballs to sauce.  When meatballs are done, remove from oven.  Using tongs, place the meatballs in the sauce.  Reduce heat to low and cook covered for an additional 20 minutes.

6.  Finish the dish.  Toast the hoagie rolls.  Add 3-4 meatballs to a roll and spoon some sauce over the meatballs.  Garnish with some sliced cabbage and serve immediately.

ENJOY!

Savage Boleks' Steelhead Sliders

Followers of this blog may recall that my beautiful Angel provided a guest blog post about the Salmon Burgers that she made.  When we were preparing for our Super Bowl party, I decided that we should make slider versions of those amazing burgers.  We went to a local warehouse store, looking for pounds of sustainable salmon.  (This is a challenge, which is best left for another day.)  We looked at the salmon there, but we were not impressed with the fillets.  There were discolorations and imperfections that, as someone who has cooked a lot of fish and seafood, left me very uneasy. The store also had fillets of  Steelhead.   Those fillets looked a lot better, so we bought a couple to make our sliders. 

Steelhead are sometimes referred to as salmon; however, they  are not salmon.  Steelhead are rainbow trout that share a lot in common with salmon.  Born in freshwater, the steelhead migrate to the oceans to grow and mature.  Once they are ready to reproduce, they return up the rivers to where they were born.  The one significant difference is that, while salmon die after reproducing, steelhead usually continue to live and reproduce.  This makes steelhead more sustainable, because they are able to reproduce up to several times before they die.  Today, most steelhead are farmed like Atlantic Salmon and conservation watchdogs, like the Monterrey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch, list steelhead as a "best choice."  

This recipe follows Clare's salmon burger recipe very closely.  We served the burgers with a choice of dill yogurt or ancho guacamole condiments.   These are great sliders, which can also be made with actual salmon (whether sockeye, coho or king salmon).

SAVAGE BOLEKS' STEELHEAD SLIDERS

A Chef Bolek Collaboration with Clare Bolek

Serves 12-18

Ingredients:
2 pounds of fresh steelhead fillets
3/4 cup cilantro, chopped

2 tablespoons of prepared mustard

1 medium Vidalia onion, diced
1 cup of dried mushrooms, ground into powder

3 cups Panko bread crumbs

2 beaten eggs

3 cloves garlic, diced finely

1/2 lemon, juiced

1 tablespoon of olive oil

Salt, to taste

Ground black pepper, to taste
1 cup of Greek yogurt or guacamole
1 tablespoon of fresh dill (if you use yogurt)

Directions:

1.  Prepare the salmon mixture.  Cutting the salmon into even pieces.  Place the salmon pieces in a food processor and process until the salmon is broken up.  Add the salmon to a bowl and add the onion, garlic, cilantro, paprika and lemon juice.  Mix thoroughly and then add the Panko bread crumbs, eggs and olive oil. Continue to mix thoroughly.

2.  Make the slider patties.  Make patties by taking a handful of the salmon mixture.  You should get about a dozen patties.  Place the patties on a sheet of wax paper.  Once all of the patties are formed, place them in the freezer for about one half of an hour.

3.  Cook the patties.   Let the burgers cook for about three to four minutes and then flip them.  Continue to cook the burgers for about three more.  Remove the burgers from the heat.

Serve the salmon sliders on toasted or grilled buns.  You can use whatever toppings you like, such as lettuce, tomato, red onion or ... guacamole.  If you use yogurt, chop the dill very finely and mix it into the yogurt.  Spoon a little yogurt onto the bottom of the bun and place the slider on top.

PAIRING THIS RECIPE

When one thinks of salmon, especially in the Pacific Northwest, the thoughts turn to Pinot Noir.  Oregon has many great Pinot Noir wines (some of which I have reviewed on this blog).  A couple of suggestions include the following:

Privé Vineyard -- Le Nord (2008)

100% Pinot Noir

Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA

Flavors of cherries and spice

Sokol Blosser -- Estate Cuvee Pinot Noir (2006)

100% Pinot Noir

Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA

Flavors of dark berries and mocha

If you would like to pair these sliders with a beer, an American Pale Ale or a regular Pale Ale would pair well.  These beers have a moderate hop flavor that should not be too piney, bitter or resinous.  I would advise against an India Pale Ale, which would probably be too bitter for this dish.

ENJOY!

North African Merguez Sliders

I love to barbecue and grill food, and I follow a lot of chefs, BBQ pitmasters, and professional grillers, always looking for ideas and inspiration.  One of my favorites is Steven Raichlen, whose television shows -- BBQ U and Primal Grill -- are always interesting to watch.  When I recently came across Steven Raichlen's recipe for lamb sliders, I thought it would be a great dish for a Super Bowl party.

Raichlen's recipe called for the use of ground lamb and his Planet Barbecue North African Rub.  I did not have any of the rub.  So, I began to think about what I could use as a substitute.  If Steve Raichlen was drawing inspiration from the flavors of North Africa, from countries like Morocco or Algeria, then I needed to focus on a substitute spice mix.  The first thought was Merguez, the mix used to make the sausage of the same name. 

Merguez is a type of fresh sausage (as opposed to dry sausage) that is common throughout Northern Africa and the Middle East.  It is usually made with mutton or beef, with a spice mix that draws from a range of interesting and flavorful ingredients.  A Merguez spice mix typically includes paprika, along with fennel, coriander, cumin, cinnamon and chile powder (or cayenne pepper).  The best part is that Merguez sausage is typically grilled, just like Steve Raichlens' recipe for the lamb sliders. 

So I found a couple recipes for a Merguez Spice from About.com and MarxFoods.com and set about to make the spice.  The recipe below produces a lot of the spice mix; and, in the end, I used about 2/3 to 3/4 of the mix with the meat.  I tried to eyeball how the spice was being incorporated into the ground lamb to make sure that it was not too little or too much.  I would suggest adding about half of the mix (a little at a time while mixing with your hands).  After that, continue to add a little of the mix, a tablespoon at a time, until it seems like there is enough of the spice mix throughout the ground lamb. 

NORTH AFRICAN MERGUEZ SLIDERS

Recipe is adapted from Steven Raichlen's Planet Barbecue and

About.com and MarxFoods.com

Serves 4

Ingredients (for the Sliders):

1 1/2 pounds of ground lamb

1 small onion, minced

2 tablespoons of Merguez spice mix

Greek yogurt

Sliced tomatoes

Slider buns or mini-pitas

Ingredients (for the Merguez Spice):

1/4 cup sweet paprika

2 tablespoons of ground fennel seeds

2 tablespoons of ground cumin seeds

1 tablespoon of ground coriander seeds

2 tablespoons of salt

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon of cayenne pepper

3/4 teaspoon of ground black pepper

Directions:

1.  Make the lamb slider patties.  Combine the ground lamb, onion and Merguez spice mix.  Form two inch patties.

2.  Grill or cook the patties.  Grill or cook the patties either over high heat on a grill or under the broiler of a stove, approximately 3 to 4 minutes per side.

3.  Plate the dish.  Spread a thin layer of Greek yogurt on the bottom of the slider bun or the mini-pita.  Place one slider on the bun or pita. Top with sliced tomatoes.

This dish turned out really well.  The lamb burgers actually had the spice and the consistency of Merguez sausage.  Although making your own spice mix generally takes more work and a lot more guesswork when it comes to adding it to the ground meat, the end product is often that much more rewarding.

PAIRING THIS RECIPE

The lamb sliders are spicy, both in terms of piquancy and in terms of flavor.  The use of cayenne pepper provides the heat, but the combination of coriander, cumin and fennel also provide a different type of heat.  Given the different types of heat, a lighter, refreshing beer or wine would be best paired with this dish.  With respect to a beer, a pilsner beer would work very well, providing a refreshing break from the spice.  One such pilsner is the following:

Dogfish Head Ales -- My Antonia
Czech Style Pilsner
Milton, Delaware, USA
Aroma of hops, lighter body with hop taste

If you are looking for a wine, fruity wines like Pinot Grigios and Pinot Gris, as well as Vinho Verdes, will probably not stand up to the trifecta of the coriander, cumin and fennel.  Still, a white wine like a Vouvray, which has honey and floral notes, would work well to complement the flavors of the sliders.  I have not reviewed any Vouvray wines, but, when I do, I will add it to this recipe. 

ENJOY!

Spicy Sriracha Chicken Wings

Few people have probably ever heard of Huy Fong.  Until I wrote this blog post, the name did not mean much to me, even though I encountered Huy Fong almost every day.  Huy Fong is the name behind Sriracha, a hot sauce made with a paste of chile peppers, distilled vinegar, garlic, sugar and salt. 

The name, "Sriracha," comes from the city of Si Racha, which is located in Chonburi province of Thailand.  Chile pastes are a common ingredient in that region, although they differ from Huy Fong's sauce.  Indeed, the Sriracha, with the rooster on the label and the green top, transcends the Chonburi province and reaches across the globe ... a fact reinforced by the instructions on the back of every bottle, which are written in Vietnamese, Chinese, English, Spanish and French.

According to Food & Wine, Sriracha Sauce is one of Michael Symon's favorites.   Chef Symon is one of the chefs that I follow, because of his creativity with his dishes, not just as an Iron Chef, but also with respect to the dishes that he serves at his restaurants in Cleveland, such as Lola and Lolita.  When I came across this recipe, I decided to include it in a menu for a Super Bowl Party. 

SPICY SRIRACHA CHICKEN WINGS

A recipe from Michael Symon, available at Food & Wine

Serves 10

Ingredients:

10 pounds of chicken wings, split

1/4 cup of coriander seeds, crushed

1 teaspoon of cumin seeds, crushed

1 teaspoon of cinnamon

2 tablespoons of kosher salt

1/4 extra virgin olive oil

3/4 cup Sriracha chile sauce
1 1/2 sticks (12 tablespoons) of unsalted butter, melted

1/2 cup chopped cilantro

Finely grated zest and juice of 3 limes

3 quarts of vegetable oil (only if frying)

Directions:

1.  Marinate the wings.  In a very large bowl, toss the wings with the coriander and cumin seeds, cinnamon, kosher salt and olive oil.  Cover and refrigerate for at least four hours or overnight.

2.  Roast the wings.  Preheat the oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit.  Spread the wings on 3 large rimmed baking sheets for about thirty minutes. If you do not want to fry the wings, you can continue to roast them for about one hour longer, until the wings are crispy and golden.

3.  Prepare the sauce. Add the Sriracha, butter, cilantro lime zest and juice to a bowl or sauce pan.  

4.  Fry the wings (optional).   In a deep fryer or saucepan, heat the vegetable oil to 375 degrees Fahrenheit.  Fry the wings in 4 or five batches until golden and crisp, about 5 minutes per patch.  Drain, shaking off the excess oil.  As each batch is finished, add the wings to the sauce and toss well.  Transfer the wings to the platter, leaving the sauce in the bowl for remaining batches.  Serve hot. 

Although I do not find Sriracha to be very spicy (it is certainly less spicy than Tabasco), this sauce had a good kick to it.  I should add that the sauce recipe did not cover the full ten pounds of wings.  The next time, I think I'll make a double batch of the sauce.  Overall, this is a great recipe and it was well received.

PAIRING THIS RECIPE

When it comes to pairing anything that is spicy, usually a lighter beer or wine is recommended.  Food & Wine recommmded a "crisp, lager beer," such as Great Lakes Brewing Company's Dortmunder Gold.  Great Lakes Brewing Company is based in Cleveland, Ohio, making it a good pairing for a recipe by a chef who also hails from Cleveland.  I would also recommend any pilsner beer, such as:

Great Lakes Brewing Company -- The Wright Pils
Pilsner Beer
Cleveland, Ohio, USA
Flowery bouquet, slight hop flavor

If you are looking for a wine, a light, fruity white wine works well with moderately spicy foods.  A wine such as Pinot Grigio or Pinot Gris could pair with this dish, as well as a Vinho Verde from Portgual, such as:

Opala -- Vinho Verde (2009)

Blend of grapes

Rias Biaxas, Portugal

Flavors of Granny Smith apples and pears

ENJOY!

Hot Wings with Blue Cheese Yogurt Sauce

Occasionally, I watch the show "Throwdown with Bobby Flay."   In each episode, Bobby Flay challenges a cook or chef known for making the best of a particular dish.  In one episode, Bobby challenges the "Wing King," Drew Cerza to a throwdown to determine who makes the best wings.

People who know me know I love wings.  At first, I loved wings with the hottest sauce that was served.  I still remember one bar I went to in my home town where I had an informal challenge with the cook.  He would make the wings as hot as he could and I would eat them.  The showdown came one day, when I was with my dad at the bar.  The waitress brought out the wings, with her arms fully extended (so as to avoid breathing the fumes).  I ate all of the wings, and, in the end, the cook expressed amazement.  I remember his words well, "damn, I used an entire bottle of Tabasco sauce to make those."  

Today, I still like hot wings, but, now I am more interested in sauces with complex flavors, rather than simply sauces that are the hottest that I could find.  This recipe calls for the use of various chiles, namely  ancho, hatch and chipotle.  These chiles add not only heat, but a smoky flavor as well.  And, while Drew Cerza may have beaten Bobby Flay in the throwdown, I think that Bobby's recipe is the better one. 

HOT WINGS WITH BLUE CHEESE YOGURT SAUCE

Adapted from a recipe by Bobby Flay
Serves many

Ingredients for the Wings:

3 pounds of chicken wings

3 tablespoons of ancho chile powder

1 1/2 teaspoons of garlic powder

1/2 cup red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons of pureed chipotle chiles in adobo sauce

1 tablespoon of Hatch chili powder

1 tablespoon of dijon mustard

2 tablespoons of honey

1 stick of unsalted butter

Ingredients for the Sauce:

Chopped fresh cilantro for garnish (optional)

1 cup of Greek yogurt

1/4 cup of crumbled blue cheese

2 tablespoons of finely grated red onion

2 tablespoons of finely chopped cilantro

Salt, to taste

Ground pepper, to taste

Directions:

1. Make the blue cheese sauce.   Combine the yogurt, blue cheese, onion and cilantro in a small bowl and then salt and pepper to taste.  Refrigerate for at least thirty (30) minutes prior to serving.

2.  Prep the dry rub for the wings.  Heat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.  Add the 1 tablespoon of ancho chili powder and garlic powder in a bowl.  Season with salt and pepper.  Lay the wings on a baking tray and sprinkle the powder over the wings.  Cook the wings for at least 30 minutes or until done.

3.  Prepare the sauce for the wings.  Bring the vinegar, chipotle puree and 2 tablespoons of ancho chili powder and the Hatch chili powder to a simmer over medium-high heat.  Whisk in the mustard, salt, honey and butter until smooth.  Add the wings and mix to cover and coat.

I should note that when I made these wings for my most recent Super Bowl party, I forgot to put out the Blue Cheese Yogurt Sauce.  Still, the wings came out well.  You could definitley taste the smokiness of the sauce thanks to the chipotles and anchos.  The wings were not as hot as I expected they would be.  I used a medium Hatch pepper, but I could have made it hotter by using either a medium-hot to hot pepper.  If you choose to use a hotter pepper, you should be mindful about the amount that you use in the sauce.

ENJOY!

Mini Open Faced Ribeye Sandwiches with Aged Provolone and Parsley Oil

A few years back, when I was planning my first Super Bowl party, I came across a recipe from Bobby Flay for Mini Open Faced Steak Sandwiches with Aged Provolone and Parsley Oil.  I made the recipe and it was a big hit, even though I cooked the steak over the broiler (instead of the grill as called for in the recipe) and even though I did not make the parsley oil.  While I generally try to vary the dishes that I have made for subsequent Super Bowl parties, I return to this one every once in a while because I truly like this recipe.  When it came to preparing for our fourth Super Bowl party, aptly named Super Bowl Party IV, I decided that I would make this recipe again for our guests.

When it comes to recipes, I usually only use them as "guides" in making the dish, because I want to tap into my own creativity to see how I can improve the dish or, as they say, make it my own.  In this case, I did a few things.  First, I doubled the amount of meat.  Who does not like more meat in their sandwiches?  Second, I decided to "rub" the meat with a mixture of cracked peppercorns, sea salt and rosemary.   Third, I added arugula to the sandwiches, which would underscore the pepper used in the rub.  Finally, I decided to use an Italian bread (Pugliese style bread) rather than French bread.  The Italian bread was wider, allowing for more arugula, meat, and cheese. 

MINI OPEN FACED RIBEYE SANDWICHES

WITH AGED PROVOLONE AND PARSLEY OIL

Adapted from Bobby Flay at Foodnetwork.com
Serves 12 

Ingredients (for the meat):

2 pounds of ribeye

3 tablespoons of mixed peppercorns

2 tablespoons of sea salt

2 long branches of rosemary

Ingredients (for the bread):

1 1/2 sticks of unsalted butter

6 cloves roasted garlic, pureed

24 slices of Italian bread, sliced 1/4 inch thick

Ingredients (for making the sandwich):

Aged Provolone, shaved or cut into thin slices

2 bunches of arugula

Ingredients (for the parsley oil):

1/4 cup finely chopped flat leaf parsley

1/2 cup canola oil

Salt, to taste

Ground pepper, to taste

Olive oil

Directions:

1.  Marinate the steak.  Grind the mixed peppercorns, salt and rosemary in a spice grinder.  (I use a coffee grinder which I have dedicated to that purpose). Brush the steak with oil and rub the ground mixture on every side of the steak.

2.  Grill the steaks.  Heat the grill to at least 400 degrees Fahrenheit.  Cook the ribeyes until slightly charred, about four to five minutes.  Turn the steaks ninety degrees halfway through the cooking to get the hatch marks.  Turn the steaks and continue to cook for about five minutes more, once again turning halfway through to get the hatch marks.  According to the recipe, the steaks should be at about medium rare.  I like my steak between medium rare and medium.  (I usually order steak medium in restaurants because I find if I ask for medium rare, I usually get it between rare and medium rare.)  If you want the steaks to be medium, add two to three minutes to both sides depending upon the thickness of the steaks. Remove and let rest for at least five minutes.  Slice the ribeye into even slices, removing the fat from the ribeye as you slice it.

3.  Prepare the crostini.  Mix together the butter and garlic puree.  Season with salt and pepper.  Brush 1 side of the bread slices with the butter and garlic mixture.  Toast the slices under the broiler until golden brown.

4. Prepare the sandwiches. Top the bread slices with  the arugula.  Then add slices of ribeye, usually about two slices for each slice of bread.  Top the ribeye with the shaved cheese. 

5.  Prepare the parsley oil. Mix the parsley and canola oil together.  Salt and pepper to taste.  Drizzle the parsley oil over the steak.  Serve immediately.

Just one final note.  I assembled the sandwiches in a different way than called for in the recipe as written by Bobby Flay.  According to the recipe, once you have toasted the bread slices, you are to add the cheese and stick it under the broiler for another thirty seconds or more until the cheese melts.  Then you add the steak and drizzle the parsley oil.  I've done it this way, but I think the sandwich looks nicer by putting the cheese on top and by not melting the cheese.  In the end, it is a question of preference, because this dish can be prepared either way.

ENJOY!