I have been reading the book, which is excellently written and very thorough, planning in my head how I can acquire certain ingredients and when I can make some of the recipes. However, as I reached the section entitled "Mesoamerican Highlands and Pacific Coast," I came across a recipe for Chapulines al Ajo con Chile y Sal. A simple recipe for which I already had all of the ingredients, including the chapulines.
A couple of years ago, I made Tacos de Chapulines con Tequila y Guacamole. It way my nod to Chef Jose Andres, who served a very similar taco at his restaurant, Oyamel. Ever since then, I have kept dried chapulines in my pantry for future dishes. Now, with Chef Sherman's new cookbook, I had the opportunity to prepare a recipe for chapulines in a different, and more fundamental way.
Before the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors and colonizers, the indigenous peoples who lived in the States now known as Oaxaca and Puebla, including the Zapotec and the Mixtec, relied upon chapulines as one of their protein sources. In fact, grasshoppers have more protein than beef. Grasshoppers were everywhere. During from spring to fall, farmers would head out early in the morning to collect the insects using special nets. The time of year would usually dictate the size of the grasshopper. Maria Itaka, a writer for Culinary Backstreets, once spoke with Inocencia Mendez, a vendor who owns Chapulines Dona Chencha, a food stall in Oaxaca's Central de Abastos Market. As Mendez observed:
"The babies are caught in June, the small-medium and medium-sized ones are collected between July and August, and the medium-large and large ones in September, October and even November."
Once collected, the chapulines are washed and then cooked in water, salt, garlic, and lime juice. The chapulines are then dried and toasted on a comal. Once prepared, chapulines are usually served straight as a snack to hungry Oaxacans, or added as a garnish, such as tacos or guacamole, to provide a herbal or briny flavor to the dish.
While many people (including some Savage Boleks other than myself) may find chapulines off-putting, these insects represent a significant part of a cultural and culinary heritage of indigenous peoples across Meso-America. Indeed, the Zapotec and Mixtec peoples -- who live in the present-day states of Oaxaca and Puebla -- have a long history of eating chapulines dating back centuries, whether as a snack (such as this recipe), or incorporated into dishes, such as tacos or tlayudas.
Finally, the collection, preparation, and consumption of chapulines also represents an environmentally friendly way to protect crops without the use of pesticides. A natural way to engage in pest control. And, while there are many efforts to industrialize the raising and production of chapulines, pretty much like every other food commodity, we should be supporting those who have gathered, prepared and sold chapulines in the traditional ways. Traditions are worth honoring, which holds true for every culture.
CHAPULINES AL AJO CON CHILE Y SAL
Recipe from Sean Sherman, Turtle Island at pg. 224
Makes 1 cup
Ingredients:
- 3 tablespoons sunflower oil
- 2 garlic gloves, smashed
- 1 cup dried chapulines, preferably unseasoned
- 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
- 1 teaspoon ground chipotle or chile de arbol
Directions:
1. Saute the garlic. Line a plate with paper towels and place near the stove. In a medium skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic, tilting the skillet if necessary to allow it to fry a bit in the oil and cook for about 2 minutes or until fragrant. Using a slotted spoon, remove the garflic from the oil and discard or add to a salsa.
2. Saute the chapulines. Add the chapulines ot the skillet and stir to coat evenly. Toast for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring frequently until crisped. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the chapulines to the paper towels to drain. Season them with the salt and chile powder and serve.
PEACE.
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