Sunday, July 19, 2026

Panch Poron

Generally, I use a lot ground spice blends in my cooking, from Berbere to Zaatar. So, when I come across a whole spice blend, I take notice. That is precisely the case with Panch Poron. Not only does this whole spice blend catch my attention, but its provenance keeps my attention as I look for various recipes that incorporate the blend. 

Panch poron is a whole spice blend that figures prominently in Bangladshi cuisine, as well as the cuisines of the nearby Indian states of Assam, Bihar, Odishga and West Bengal. Its name translatres into "five tempered spices," and those five spices are universal in all panch poron recipes. They are cumin seeds, fennel seeds, fenugreek seeds, mustard seeds and nigella seeds.

It is said that the number of spices used in panch poron could be traced back to the 8th to 12th centuries, when the Pala dynasty ruled over what is now Bihar and Bengal. The dynasty was Buddhist, in which the number five has important meanings, such as the five senses, five colors, five elements. The number five also plays an important role in Ayurveda, such as the five elements or the five actions, which incorporates panch poron in various vegetable dishes. 

The spice blend is used in an array of dishes, although typically lentil and vegetable dishes. Cooks also use it in fish curries, but panch poron does not appear to figure very prominently in meat dishes. That being said, I have found a few chicken dishes that use the blend, so one may soon be in the works. 

Whereas many recipes call for whole spices to be toasted, panch poron is more often tempered (known as phoron in eastern India, but also tadka in northern India or phodni in the west), that is, heated in oil por ghee during the early stages of cooking. That enables the flavors of the spices to permeate through the cooking oil or ghee, which helps to flavor the dish.  

PANCH PORON

Recipe from Tara Dalal

Ingredients:

  • 1 tablespoon cumin seeds (jeera)
  • 1 tablespoon mustard seeds (rai/sarson)
  • 1 tablespoon fenugreek seeds (methi)
  • 1 tablespoon fennel seeds (saunf)
  • 1 tablespoon nigella seeds (kalonji)
  • 1 tablespoon radhuni (optional)

Directions:

Combine all of the ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Store in an air-tight container.

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For more about panch poron, check out Rituparna Roy's article in Whetstone Magazine

PEACE.

Sunday, July 12, 2026

Nasi Goreng Berkat

There are two atolls, consisting of more than two dozen coral islands, in the Indian Ocean that lie far from any major land mass. It is 1,683 kilometers (or 1,013 miles) from these islands to the nearest point in Australia (Exmouth). It is slightly shorter -- 1,270 kilometers (or 789 miles) from the islands to Indonesia (Jakarta). While not the most isolated places on Earth, these islands -- known as the Cocos Islands or the Keeling Islands -- are truly isolated.

The islands are formally a part of Australia, the result of the expansion of colonialism and the British empire, which formally annexed the islands in 1857. Yet, the inhabitants of the Cocos Islands have stronger cultural connections to southeastern Asia than anywhere in the United Kingdom or even Australia, which took control over the islands after a transfer of power from the U.K. in 1955. And, it is this connection that I wanted to explore, to learn more about the people and their cuisine. 

The history of the people, known as the Cocos Malay, goes back to at least 1825, when they were brought to the islands by a British trader, Alexander Hare. Soon thereafter, another British trader, John Clunies-Ross, took control of the island. Clunies Ross forced the slaves and indentured servants to work on coconut plantations to produce copra, the dried white flesh of the coconut.  The workers all toiled for the Clunies-Ross family under a basically feudal system for generations. The system ended in the late 1970s, when Australia forced the family to sell the islands to the government. The coconut and copra production was taken over by the Cocos Islands Cooperative Society, LTD., but ultimately ceased in the late 1980s.

The Cocos Malay people.

The Cocos Malay -- who number about 600 -- are predominantly Malay in ancestry, but their ancestors were brought in from not just British Malaya (now Malaysia and Singapore), but also the Dutch East Indies (now Indonesia), New Guinea (now Papua New Guinea), Ceylon (now Sri Lanka), and even as far away as South Africa. The Cocos Malay are united by their language, a distinct dialect known as Basa Pulu Kokos and their Muslim religion.  

Drawing from that heritage, the cuisine of the Coco Malay draws its influences from Malaysian, Indonesian and Sri Lankan cuisines. Yet, the Cocos Malay cuisine is distinct. There are dishes such as vegetarian rice noodles, sweet and sour fish, and ayam payang (chili chicken).  

This particular recipe reflects the Indonesian influences upon Cocos Malay cooking. The dish, nasi goreng, is the Indonesian version of Chinese fried rice. As the story goes, Chinese traders and migrants brought the dish to the East Indies, where the locals made it their own. The recipe serves an very good purpose, as it was a way to make use of leftover rice and other ingredients. In fact, the best rice to use is day-old rice, as its drier texture makes it easier to fry. 

Just as the Indonesian people took fried rice and made it their own through nasi goreng, the Cocos Malay have taken nasi goreng and, in turn, made it their own. However, given the Cocos Islands are relatively isolated, if it does not come from the sea or could be cultivated from small personal gardens, then it is to be imported. There is one exception ... the coconut. And it is coconut flakes that help the Cocos Malays make the nasi goreng their own. 

NASI GORENG BERKAT

Recipe from Travel by Stove

Serves 4

Ingredients:

  • 3 cups cooked white rice
  • 1 tablespoon oil
  • 3 cloves garlic, mashed
  • 4 shallots, mashed
  • 1 teaspoon Sambal Oelek (Malaysian chile paste)
  • 1 tablespoon light soy sauce
  • 1 teaspoon Maggie chicken bouillon cubes
  • 2 red chiles, sliced
  • 1/2 cup coconut flakes
  • 1 cup mustard greens, chopped
  • Sesame oil
  • 1 piece skinless chicken, shredded

Directions:

1. Saute the garlic and onion. Heat the oil and saute the garlic with the onion, shallots, and Sambal. When fragrant, add the rice and mix well. Add the soy sauce and Maggie powder. Stir until well incorporated, then add the mustard greens, coconut, and sliced chiles.

2. Finish the dish. Drizzle a little sesame oil over the rice and serve with shredded chicken. 

PEACE.

Sunday, July 5, 2026

Nanticoke Catfish

"The Black watermen of the Chesapeake Bay have the same kind of impact as the Tuskeegee Airmen, the same impact as the Buffalo Soldier. But their story is just beginning to be told." 

-- Vincent O. Leggett, Author

African-American watermen were pioneers. Yet, unlike the Tuskeegee Airmen and the Buffalo Soldier, the story of these watermen is as old as the story of the United States. As the British brought slaves to the Chesapeake Bay area, slave-owners put them to work on vessels that plied the waters to catch fish, along with harvesting oysters and crabs. Yet, the waters were more than work, they were a way to freedom and economic independence. 

As early as 1796, the federal government began issuing Seaman Protection Certificates. Such a certificate declared that its holder, an African-American, was a citizen of the United States. Certificate holders were often referred to as "Black Jacks." They were free from the bondage of slavery (as illustrated by Frederick Douglass, who borrowed a certificate from a friend to make his way out of the slave-owning, eastern shore of Maryland to the freedom of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania). But, they were not free from the discrimination and oppression of a racist society, economy and government.  African-Americans still suffered under unjust laws that restricted what they could do on the water. For example, Maryland passed a law that prohibited African-Americans from owning a boat large enough that it had to be registered (and, of course, large enough to engage in oystering, finfishing, crabbing, and other work). They often depended upon lax enforcement, or white bosses, to make it possible to work. 

The Civil War freed African-Americans from the bonds of slavery, but not the racist discrimination and segregation that remained and reconstituted itself under Jim Crow laws. Yet, even under these awful conditions, African Americans found freedom and independence, both on the water and adjacent to it. African American watermen continued to serve as captain and crew on vessels, many of which had white owners, but the watermen were able to earn enough to support themselves and their families. They benefited from a larger economic environment, one in which oysters and fish from the bay were in high demand. 

Downes Curtis

African-Americans were also able to establish their economic independence along the coasts, setting up their own businesses related to the seafood industry. Take, for example, the story of Downes Curtis, one of the only African-American sailmakers in the Chesapeake Bay region. Downes and his brother learned the craft from Dave Pritchett, an English sailmaker, in Oxford, Maryland. After Pritchett died, the Downes Curtis continued the business. They cut sails for log canoes and oysterboats in a building that once served as a school for African-American children.  (Today, the building is a private residence). Curtis built up a business that not only served African-Americans working on the bay, for vessels that raced its waters, like the Island Blossom. Curtis continued this work until 1996, when he died at age 85.

African-American Watermen working on a
fishing boat outside of Alexandria, VA 
Back on the waters, African-American watermen continued to captain and work on vessels up and down the Bay. They also developed their work methods, including the use of work songs or shantys. The use of such songs can be traced to early customs of African slaves working on plantations. Watermen used work songs to coordinate their work pulling up fish nets, such as the nets used to catch menhaden. As explained by William Hudnall, who organized a group of watermen who sing the shantys: The harmony brings everyone together on the same chord at the same time, and that's what made the work easier." The songs are sung by leaders and workers, with the former calling first followed by the response of the latter. Together, they would haul in the large purse seine nets, inch by inch, until the menhaden were on board. This tradition disappeared with the advent of mechanical equipment that could haul the nets onboard. The songs went silent for years and then decades.

During that time and thereafter, the maritime industry on the Chesapeake Bay plummeted with the populations of oysters, finfish and blue crab. It became harder for African-American watermen, and, indeed all watermen, to continue their trade. That has resulted not only in fewer fishing vessels working the bay, but also in the potential loss of a very rich history. Given the significant contribution that African Americans have made to the Chesapeake Bay seafood industry, both on and off the water, its preservation has become an important issue. Their history is American history. The only difference is that it is not widely taught, if taught at all, in schools and universities. If you want to learn about it, as I did, you have to spend a lot of time on the Internet or visiting museums to learn their stories. 

After spending a lot of time reading on this subject, I decided to prepare a dish that honored the history of African-American watermen on the Chesapeake Bay. I turned my search to finding an appropriate dish. My search led me to Vincent Leggett, a person who dedicated his life to preserving the history of these watermen and telling their story to present day audiences. Leggett wrote a book, The Chesapeake Bay Through Ebony Eyes, which inclued recipes. One of those recipes is Nanticoke Catfish. The name references the Nanticoke River, a tributary of the bay that runs through the eastern shore of Maryland. (Nanticoke comes from the Algonquin word nantaquak, which means "tidal people."). It is a basic fried fish dish, using catfish that could be found along the eastern shore. While such a dish would have been typically prepared with the indigenous catfish, like a brown bullhead, it can be enjoyed today by using blue catfish, an invasive species that is wreaking havoc in the bay. 

NANTICOKE CATFISH

Recipe from Vincent O. Leggett, The Chesapeake Bay Through Ebony Eyes 

and available here

Serves 8

Ingredients:

  • 1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
  • 1/4 cup cornmeal
  • 1 tablespoon rubbed sage
  • 1 tablespoon cayenne pepper, or to taste
  • 1 teaspoon garlic powder 
  • 1 teaspoon onion powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon black pepper
  • 4 large eggs
  • 8 catfish fillets
  • Vegetable oil

Directions:

1. Prepare the batter or breading. Mix the flour, cornmeal, sage, cayenne pepper, garlic powder, onion powder, nutmeg, salt and pepper in a shallow bowl or pie plate. In another shallow bowl or pie plate, whisk the eggs until well beaten. 

2. Prepare the fish. Rinse the catfish fillets under cold running water and pat them dry. 

3. Prepare the oven. Preheat the oven to 250 degrees Fahrenheit. Set a wire rack inside a rimmed baking sheet lined with paper towels. 

4. Prepare the oil. Pour vegetable oil to a depth of 1/2 inch in a large, deep skillet. Heat theoil over medium-high heat until shimmering but not smoking. 

5. Prepare the fillets. Dip the fillets into the eggs and let the excess drip off. Dredge them in the flour mixture and gently shake off the excess.

6. Fry the fillets. Working in batches to avoid overfilling the skillet, slip the fillets into the hot oil. Fry the fillets, turning once, about 4 minutes on each side, until the coating is crisp and golden brown and the fish is opaque in the center. Transfer the cooked fish to the wire rack and keep them warm in the oven until all of the fish fillets are fried. Serve hot with lemon wedges.

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Post Script: William Hudnall organized the Northern Neck Chantney Singers, a group of African-American watermen who would do a lot to preserve these work songs used in the menhaden fishing industry for future generations. To listen to their work, as well as learn about their history, check out this YouTube video:

PEACE.

Wednesday, July 1, 2026

250 & Me



As the United States commemorates its 250th anniversary of independence, I find myself questioning what exactly we should be celebrating. As I began writing this post, the Supreme Court had just issued its decision in Louisiana v. Callais. A majority of extreme conservative justices basically killed one of the most significant achievements of the civil rights movement: the Voting Rights Act of 1965. The majority's decision sparked an immediate inferno of racism, which spread across Southern states who renewed redistricting sprees aimed at removing African-Americans from political office. 

And, it has gotten worse from there. The six uber-conservative justices on the Supreme Court issued their decisions in Mullin v. Otra Lado and Mullin v. Doe. The decision in Otra Lado upholds the policy that excludes asylum seekers at our border, preventing them from even setting foot on U.S. soil. People seek asylum fled their homes because of war, violence, persecution, human rights violations, or climatre change. They make the long dangerous trip to the United States seeking safety, security and a better life. Now they are being denied refuge in the United States solely because of the color of their skin or where they come from. 

And then there is the Doe decision, which is even worse. The majority upehld President Trump's termination of temporary protected status (TPS) for Haitians and Syrians. TPS enabled migrants from these countries to come to the United States because of the humanitarian or natural crises in their countries. And, while the protected status may be temporary, those crises have a seemingly permanent nature to them. Indeed, the United States currently advises its citizens against traveling to either Haiti or Syria because of the situation on the ground in both countries.  Yet, the conservative majority on the Court cleared the way for 350,000 Haitians to be forcibly returned to a country largely controlled by gangs with little to no central government and thousands of Syrians being forced back to a country where violence and insecurity remains a day-to-day reality. 

And, there is also the growing disparity in the United States between the obscenely wealthy and everyone else. The billionaires have seized control of major media outlets, corrupting their journalistic work, and feeding false narratives to all of us. They seek to fuel distrust, hatred and intolerance to divide eveery one else. There are many divisions: the middle class v. the poor, citizens v. immigrants, everyone v. migrants, etc. Those divisions are necessary to ensure that the wealthy remain at the top, using the economic and governmental systems to enlarge their wealth, while exploiting our inner weaknesses to keep us divided, deprived, and, for most, on the verge of being destitute. 

None of the above is worth celebrating. Our country was founded two and one-half centuries ago on the principles that all men are created equal, endowed by their Creator with certain unalienable rights, including the right to life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness. We have had 250 years to get to the point where our country put those noble principles into action, not just for all men, but all women, not just for all white people, but for every person regardless of race, national origin, religion, gender, sexual orientation, age, disability ... for every one. We made great strides toward that goal over the 250 years, but we never reached it. And, now, we are being pulled backward, threatening all of the progress that we have made during that time.  

So, I will not celebrate the United States as it presently stands on its 250th anniversary. Instead, on July 4, 2026, I am going to stand up and celebrate what has truly deserves to be celebrated on this occasion: 

Us. The People.

I am celebrating the diversity of each and every one of us; and, I will do so on an equal and inclusive basis. 

So, who exactly are we as a people? The best way to answer that question is perhaps to draw inspiration from Professor Henry Louis Gates, Jr. He hosts the show Finding Your Roots, which has aired on PBS for more than twelve seasons. Professor Gates helps influential people learn more about their ancestors. He do so in very compelling ways, weaving the narrative with research and historical records. So, if Professor Gates were to tell the story of ordinary American people as a group, how would he do it? 

Perhaps Professor Gates's starting point would be something along the lines of a DNA test. Fortunately, our country performs such a test on a yearly basis, courtesy of the U.S. Census Bureau. And, for 2025, the test revealed our country to be approximately 57.5% White, 20.0% Latino, 13.7% African-American, 6.7% Asian, 1.4% Native American (including Alaskan Native), and 0.3% Hawaiian and Pacific Islander. Those who live in the United State embody diversity. 

Professor Gates would not just end the story there. He would go on to explain what the research and historical records tells us about our past. He would note that we, collectively as a people, have some very interesting stories. Each story is a piece of our shared heritage. Some of those stories have been forgotten. Others have been repressed. They all remain a part of our common narrative. Each story -- good or bad, happy or sad -- has an equal right to be told, passed along from generation to generation. 

I have tried, in my own very small way with this blog, to recount some of those stories that revolve around food. I have organized my small effort as qwhat I call my Federal Project Number One. The blog posts revolve around a recipe, but come with underlying culinary and cultural history told (as best I can) from the perspective of the people themselves. This project truly began before I even knew I was undertaking the effort. It all started when I was searching for the origin of barbecue in the United States. That search led me to Wesley Jones, a free person who was interviewed about his life as a slave. He recounted how, as a slave working in South Carolina, he prepared barbecue for the white plantation class. I gained a perspective that I never came across while watching barbecue shows on television or reading cookbooks.

That was just the beginning. I spent more time searching for the stories about who we are as Americans, usually through the lens of food. The effort picked up a lot of steam as the current adminsitration began to whitewash our history, seeking to erase the struggles and accomplishments of marginalized and oppressed peoples over the past 250 years. My increased focus has taught me more about the history of the United States than I was ever taught from elementary school through college. 

For example, we are taught about people like John D. Rockefeller, Andrew Carnegie, Cornelius Vanderbilt and J. P. Morgan. We are taught that they seized hold of the American dream, starting companies that became highly successful (and monopolistic). And, they are all white males. We are not taught about people like Thomas Downing, an African American who started his own business selling oysters, and even creating one of the most popular oyster dishes in the 19th century (the Oyster Pan Roast). He tried to gain a hold on the American dream, but was never accepted - a fact he learned first hand when he was forcibly removed from a railcar reserved for white people. 

There are other names that could be lost to history, like Joe Goe Nue, who opened one of the first Chinese-owned grocery stores in the Mississippi delta. He, along with other Chinese immigrants, opened these stores, which became a lifeline to African Americans who suffered under the discrimination of the post-Civil War south. They also brought their culture and cuisine to the area, melding Chinese recipes with local ingredients to create dishes like grocery roast pork.  

These stories are as just American as any of the stories about George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, or Abraham Lincoln. The reason is simple: the American people are not defined by their leaders, but by the masses. And those masses are far more diverse now than they have ever been. Diversity has never been a weakness for us. It has always been our strength, empowering us both as a country and a people. Until very recently, the United States had been a place that drew people from all walks of life and all parts of the world to its shores. Indeed, the Census Bureau determined that nearly 15.9% of the people living in this country are "non-citizens," a term the Census Bureau defines to include people who are lawful permanent residents, immigrants, and those who are undocumented. That magnetism brought with it a range of knowledge and perspective that not only enabled the United States to be a leader in so many fields, but enabled so many people to find and make better lives for themselves and their loved ones. 

All of this is at risk because the current U.S. government, fueled by the white supremacist Make America Great Again ideology, is trying to close off our country to everyone (except, it seems white Afrikaaners). 

If we continue to look back, as those in the MAGA movement are trying to force us to do, then we will only see a time when our country was anything but great: decades (and, indeed, centuries) of discrimination, oppression, and violence against anyone who was not a property-owning, Christian, white male. By contrast, if we look forward, we will see a future that we can create ourselves. A future in which the United States becomes a better country. Not just for a particular group of people and not just for those who are at the top. But a better country for everyone, especially the 99% who make everything in this country work and for whom the American dream is increasingly beyond their reach.  



Rather than looking backward with the MAGA (Make America Great Again) "movement," I would greatly prefer a more forward looking movement. One that mobilizes around making the United States a better country. In making the United States a better country, we would accept our past shortcomings, address them, and work to make the United States to ensure that every person, regardless of citizenship, be treated humanely, with dignity and respect. We would ensure that every person is treated equally, with the rights to life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness, with an equal opportunity, regardless of class, race, gender, or any other characteristic. We would open our country to those who wish to join in this effort to make the United States better than it has been for the past 250 years. 

So, on this 250th anniversary, I will celebrate us -- all of us, the diverse people who live in this country -- and what we have done, are doing now, and will do to make the United States a better country for everyone. 

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Post-Script (7-2-26): On the same day that I published this post on my blog, the New York Times published an interesting article, How a Nation of Immigrants Traces its Roots, which explores the history of immigration to the United States and how that history has been reflected in the American people over time. The New York Times also published an interesting interactive map, An American Mosaic, which enables one to see how people identify themselves in any part of the United States. I looked up where I lived and got interesting results. It is totally worth spending some time exploring who we are across the country. 

PEACE. 

Final Note: The opening and final pictures of this post were created using AI.