Pisano Rio de Los Pajaros Tannat Reserve

Uruguay is a small country in South America whose name translates into "river of the painted birds in the indigenous Guarani language. And, the name is an apt description of the rolling hills and rivers throughout the country. There are over 400 different species of birds of all sizes and colors, from small hummingbirds to large flamingos. 

Yet, Uruguay is better known for other things, such as its food. The country's beef consumption per capita is one of the highest in the world, which I learned about as I made a Smoked Ribeye Roast, Uruguayan Style. It is also known for the Chivito al Pan, a heart-clogging sandwich of steak, ham, bacon, cheese, egg, and other toppings that is perhaps my most favorite sandwich of all time. 

There is also something from Uruguay that is one of my most favorites ... a tannat wine from Pisano, a vineyard and winemaker run by a small group of family vignerons. The wine caught my attention because of its single varietal .. the tannat grape. Tannat grapes are perhaps one of the most tannic grapes out there, with thick skins, deep purple color and more seeds than other wine-making grapes. Those characteristics contribute to what winemakers and sommeliers would refer to as an "aggressive structure," which includes high levels of tannins and acidity. Those elements would make for a harsher, more astringent wine on their own, which is why Tannat is typically used to balance softer grapes, like Cabernet Franc or Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Tannat grape was first planted in the Basque region of France along the Pyrennes mountains. It particularly took root (pun intended) in the Madiran AOC and the Basque appellation of Iroulèguy. A Madiran AOC wine must include at least 60% Tannat grapes, supplemented by Cabernet Franc (Bouchy), Cabernet Sauvignon, and/or Fer (Pinenc) grapes. There are also Madiran wines that are 100% Tanat. In the Iroulèuy region, which lies in the French Basque area, Tannat grapes -- known as Bordelesa Beltza -- are also to make similar wines.  

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This history serves as the background for the wine that is the subject of this post -- a Tannat wine whose grapes are cultivated on the other side of the Atlantic Ocean. Basque winemakers emigrated to the New World and one particular immigrant, Pascual Harriague, brought Tannat grapes to Uruguay. Harriage planted vine cuttings in Salto around 1870 to 1874. The grape adapted extremely well to the climate of Uruguay, in some rather interesting ways.  The coastal humidity and warm weather of Uruguay help to soften the grape, which help to make the wine more fruit-forward and less astringent (albeit slightly). The grapes eventally became the most widely planted grape in Uruguay, as well as the national grape of the country.  

There are two styles of winemaking with Tannat grapes: a traditional style and a modern one. The traditional style reflects its Old World origins, which a red wine that has a lot of tannins, deep red color, and a significant period of aging in oak barrels. These wines are very structured, and, require additional aging in the bottle, as well as some time (usually about an hour) in a decanter once opened. By contrast, the modern style creates a relatively "lighter" wine (Tannat wines can only be so "light" given the high levels of tannins and acidity in the grapes. These wines tend to be aged less in oak barrels (or not at all), and much more fruit forward than a traditional Tannat wine.  

In my humble opinion, Pisano's Rio de los Pajaros Tannat pours like a modern Uruguayan Tannat wine. The wine has a lot of structure, but with a medium-bodied red wine, with a dark red color that is not completely impenetrable. The winemakers describe the color as a garnet red, which I think is a good description. The winemakers also describe the aroma as "dark chocolate, red and black fruit, and spices." I get the red and black fruit, and perhaps some notes of chocolate. The spices were a little more hidden than the aromas. 

As for the taste, I definitely get the red and black fruit, such as raspberries, black cherries and blackberries. The winemakers also suggest some coffee notes, but, like the spice aromatic elements, they were a little hidden in the taste. The winemakers hit the mark in describing the balance of this wine. I could definitely sense the tannins in the wine, but they were rounder and softer, which allowed the fruit notes to come through more prominently.  

This wine is one of my favorites and I always pick up a bottle when I see it in the store. If you come across a bottle, I would recommend it ... you will have an opportunity to try a wine from a region you probably would not have thought to exist and a varietal that you might not have thought would be used to make a standalone wine. All in all, it is definitely worth a try, and another one, and another one. (I think you get the point.) Until next time ...

PEACE.