Javaher Polow (Persian Jeweled Rice)

Few dishes leave me in awe, and Javaher Polow or Persian Jeweled Rice is one of them. My awe manifests itself in a couple of different ways. On the one hand, I marvel at the visual impact of seeing the dish. Studded with fruits and nuts, it truly looks as if jewels are embedded throughout the dish. On the other hand, I am struck by the complexity of preparing the dish: to create this be-jeweled masterpiece requires time, skill and patience. Many times I feel like I lack all three, and, hence, the dish has been an aspiration of mine for quite some time. 

Yet, the dish has been around much longer than any aspiration. Javaher Polow, also known as Morasa Polow, dates back -- at least -- to the 16th or 17th century, when it graced the royal tables at Qazvin, the capital where the Safavid dynasty ruled an empire stretching from the Caucasus mountains to the Persian gulf, and from Hoveyzeh to Qandahar (which is in modern day Afghanistan). The Safavid empire was one of the longest lasting Persian empires, from 1501 C.E. to 1736 C.E.

Many consider the Safavid empire to be the period of time when Persian cuisine truly developed. It may also be due to the fact that much of the history of Persian cuisine traces back to the Safavids, with sources become more scarce prior to that time. Nevertheless, it is beyond dispute that the Safavid court gave rise to many dining traditions and many dishes that remain a fundamental part of Persian cuisine to this day. Maybe someday I will have the time to truly explore that history, which can be found in manuscripts from the chefs of the royal kitchens, like the Matatolhayat, which recounts the lived experience and recipes of Nurollah, the chef to Shah Abbas I. 

Back to Javaher Polow, this dish involves a process that, depending upon the recipe, can take a lot of time and skill. Fortunately, I found a simplified version of the recipe on Milk Street, which is the website for Christopher Kimball's Milk Street cooking school and magazine. This simplified recipe provided a way for me to try to tackle this recipe without having to master the layering of rice, avoiding the over-cooking or under-cooking of the rice, and to focus on the basics. The simplified recipe enabled me to produce a delicious rice dish that probably ranks in the top 5 of most beautiful dishes that I have ever prepared. 

Having prepared a "simplified" version of Javaher Polow, I have begun to build up the confidence to try recipes from Persian chefs. The goal is to produce an authentic version. While I have more of the skill, and while I work on my patience, I still need to find the time.

JAVAHR POLOW (PERSIAN JEWELED RICE)

Recipe adapted from Milk Street

Serves 4

Ingredients:

• 1 teaspoon saffron threads
• 4 tablespoons salted butter
• 2 medium yellow onions, halved and thinly sliced
• Kosher salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 2 cups basmati rice, rinsed and drained
• 2 teaspoons ground cumin
• 1 3/4 teaspoons ground cardamom
• 2 medium carrots, peeled and shredded on the large holes of a box grater (about 1 cup)
• 1 cup dried cranberries
• 1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest
• 1/2 cup shelled pistachios, chopped, divided

Directions:

1. Prepare the saffron water. In a small microwave bowl, combine the saffron with 3 2/3 cups of water. Microwave on high until the water has taken on a yellow hue, about 1 minute. Set aside. 

2. Prepare the rice. In a 12-inch skillet over medium, metl the butter. Add the onions and 1 teaspoons salt, then cook, tstirring occasionally until softened and light golden brown, about 10 to 12 minutes. Stir int eh rice, cumin, cardamom 1/2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Cook, stirring frequently until the grains are light browned and no longer transluscenet, about 4 to 7 minutes. Stir in the saffron water, the carrots and cranberries. Bring to a boil over medium high, then cover, reduce to lw and cook until the rice has absorbed the liquid and the carrots aee tender, 25 to 30 minutes. 

3. Finish the dish. Fluff the rice with a fork, then stir int he orange zest and 1/4 cup of postachios. Taste and season with salt and pepper. transfer to a shallow bowl and sprinkle with the remaining 1/4 cup pistachios. 

PEACE.

Pistachio and Herb Crusted Rack of Lamb with Roasted Asparagus and Rosemary Potatoes

One of the dishes on my "to-do" list was a recipe for Pistachio and Herb Crusted Rack of Lamb, with Roasted Asparagus and Rosemary Potatoes.  I came across the recipe along time ago, when I was making dishes for my beautiful Angel when she was pregnant with our little guy.  Clare does not eat lamb, so I set aside the recipe for one of my "Steak Nights."  The "to-do" list for Steak Night was rather long, and, thoughts of the recipe sat, somewhat neglected in the recesses of my mind.

That was until very recently, when I had the urge to cook with a rack of lamb.  A rack of lamb is a cut perpendicular to the spine of the animal, and, usually consists of about eight (8) ribs and chops.  The rack of lamb cut is very popular, and somewhat expensive, especially if you purchase a "frenched" rack, where the ends of the ribs have been stripped bare of fat and meat.  A "frenched" rack of lamb provides for better presentation.   So, I bought one, because I could use a little help in the presentation department.    

Once I had my frenched rack of lamb, I proceeded to get the other ingredients.  The part of the recipe that piqued my interest is the "crust" of pistachios and fresh herbs.  I have seen many different recipes for "crusted" rack of lamb, but this was the first one that I saw which used pistachios.  Those nuts, along with the fresh rosemary and thyme, created an interesting combination of tastes and textures for the lamb. Apparently, it is also a fairly popular one, judging by the number of pistachio crusted rack of lamb recipes on the internet.  Some of those recipes did not include the fresh herbs, or, worse, added bread crumbs. Given the use of pistachios, bread crumbs seems kind of redundant for this dish, at least in my humble opinion.

Once I got home and made this recipe, I regretted not making it sooner.  The pistachio and her crust was delicious, and, as always, the lamb tasted very good.  However, I realized that I needed some more practice, both with respect to working with the crust and carving the finished product.  Nevertheless, I really enjoyed this recipe, and, as with so many other recipes, it will go on another list ... to make again.  Hopefully, it will not take as long to get back to the dish.

PISTACHIO AND HERB CRUSTED RACK OF LAMB WITH

ROASTED ASPARAGUS AND ROSEMARY POTATOES

 Recipe from Erika Lenkert, Healthy Eating During Pregnancy, pg. 110

Ingredients:

4 small red potatoes, halved

5 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary

1/2 cup fresh parsley, minced

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3/4 pound asparagus, stems trimmed

1 teaspoon chopped thyme

1/3 cup dry-roasted pistachios

2 frenched racks of lamb (each rack 3/4 pound) 

     trimmed of all but a thin layer of fat

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

Directions:

1.  Cook the potatoes and asparagus.  In a wide bowl, toss the cut potatoes in 2 teaspoons olive oil and 1 teaspoon chopped rosemary to coat.  Season with salt and pepper and transfer, cut side down in a single layer to a rimmed backing sheet.  Roll the asparagus in the same wide bowl, coating with the remaining oil, and set aside.  Roast the potatoes for 35 minutes.  Add the asparagus in a single layer and roast the potatoes and asparagus for 10 more minutes, then keep warm.

2.  Prepare the pistachio/herb blend.  Blend the parsley, thyme, and remaining 1 teaspoon rosemary in a blender or food processor until minced.  Add the pistachios and blend or process until minced.  Add 1 teaspoon of olive oil and pulse until combined.  Set aside.

3.  Prepare the lamb.  Season the lamb with salt and pepper.  Heat 2 teaspoons olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high.  Sear the meat one rack at a time by cooking the ribs until brown, turning once, about 5 minutes.  Transfer the lamb to a large roasting pan, meat side up, and coat them with Dijon mustard.

4.  Roast the lamb.  Gently press the pistachio mixture onto the meaty portion of the rack (not the bones).  Roast the lamb until a thermometer inserted diagonally 2 inches into the center (do not touch the bone) registers 155 degrees Fahrenheit (for medium), 20 to 25 minutes.  Transfer to a cutting board.

5.  Finish the dish.  Let stand for 10 minutes, then gently cut the meat into individual ribs.  Serve with the potatoes and asparagus.

ENJOY!

Penne Rigate with Asparagus-Pistachio Pesto

One of the most interesting chefs and television personalities is Andrew Zimmern.  I am a big fan of his television shows, especially Bizarre Foods.  Andrew has a very interesting and inspiring personal history.  He moved to Minnesota in the 1990s to receive treatment for chemical dependency and alcoholism.  After he finished the treatment program, he found a job at a French restaurant called Café Un Deux Trois.  Although Andrew washed dishes and bussed tables, he closely watched the chef, who had spent a few years learning under Chef Bouley in New York City.  Andrew watched the chef closely, and, when a line cook called in sick, Andrew took the job as a line cook.  After a few weeks, Andrew climbed the ranks and took over the kitchen.

I have been wanting to make some of Andrew's recipes for quite a while.  Recently, I came across a recipe for Rigatoni with Asparagus-Pistachio Pesto.  This recipe dates back to Café Un Deux Trois.  Andrew recalls that the the old chef at the restaurant claimed to have gotten the recipe from Chef Bouley.  Whether or not that is true, Andrew notes that the recipe is delicious.

And, Andrew is right.  This recipe is very delicious.  I made two changes to his recipe.  First, I substituted rigatoni with penne rigate.  Really, this dish could be prepared with any pasta, although I think rigatoni and penne rigate, as well as fusilli or orcchiette, would be the best pasta for this dish. Second, I used regular Parmesan cheese rather than Parmigiano Reggiano because I was making this dish for my beautiful wife, Clare.  Given she is pregnant, unpasteurized cheeses -- like Parmigiano Reggiano -- are off the table.  However, regular Parmesan is pasteurized and it works as a good substitute. 

PENNE RIGATE WITH ASPARAGUS-PISTACHIO PESTO

Adapted from recipe by Andrew Zimmern and available at Food & Wine

Serves 4-6

Ingredients:

1/4 cup of pine nuts

1 1/2 pounds of asparagus, cut into 1 inch lengths

3 medium carrots, chopped

1 medium shallot, chopped

1/2 cup packed basil leaves

2 garlic cloves

1 tablespoon of honey

2 teaspoons of thyme, finely chopped

1 1/2 teaspoons of lemon zest, finely grated

1 teaspoon of cumin

1/4 cup of extra virgin olive oil, plus more for tossing

Kosher salt

Freshly ground pepper

1 pound of Penne Rigate

1 cup of vegetable broth

4 tablespoons of unsalted butter

1/4 cup unsalted roasted pistachios, very finely chopped

1/3 cup parsley, chopped

Grated Parmesan cheese for serving

Directions:

1.  Toast the pine nuts.  Preheat the oven to 400°. Spread the pine nuts in a pie plate and toast for about 3 minutes, until golden brown.

2.  Begin preparing the pesto.  In the bowl of a food processor, combine the asparagus with the carrots and shallot and process until finely chopped. Scrape the mixture into a 9-by-13-inch glass or ceramic baking dish. Stir in the basil, garlic, honey, thyme, lemon zest, cumin and the 1/4 cup of olive oil. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring once, until the vegetables are soft and just starting to brown. Season with salt and pepper.

3.  Cook the pasta.  Meanwhile, in a large pot of boiling salted water, cook the pasta until al dente, 10 to 12 minutes. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup of the cooking water. Transfer the pasta to a baking sheet and toss with olive oil.

4.  Finish the pesto and the dish.   In a very large skillet, combine the cooked vegetables with the chicken stock and butter and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until hot, about 4 minutes. Add the pasta, pine nuts, pistachios and the reserved 1/2 cup of pasta water and cook, tossing, until the sauce is thick and the pasta is coated. Stir in the parsley and chopped bacon and season with salt and pepper. Transfer the pasta to bowls and serve, passing the grated cheese at the table. 

ENJOY!