Flounder en Papillote

Two words -- en papillote or al cartoccio -- provide, at least for me, one of the most interesting and tasty ways to prepare fish.  It is a method baking fish in small paper parcels or packet of parchment paper or aluminum foil.  The paper or foil is folded, and the fish is inserted along with some vegetables, spices and aromatics.  A little liquid -- whether stock, wine or even beer -- is also added, which allows for the fish to be steamed and helps keep the fish moist during the cooking process. The process seems relatively straightforward, but the key is making sure that the packet is completely sealed when it goes into the oven.  This ensures that the fish cooks properly.

The history of this cooking method is something that has always intrigued me.  It is most commonly referred to as en papilotte or al cartoccio, which would suggest that the method originated in Western Europe.  To be sure, it has been used by cooks and chefs in France and Italy since at least the 17th century.  However, it has also been used by cooks and chefs around the world.  In Latin America, cooks and chefs use corn husks or plantain leaves.  In Malaysia and Indonesia, they use banana leaves.  It is water lotus leaves in China.  Regardless of what is used, the method of cooking is the same.  For this recipe, I did not have any access plantain leaves or water lotus leaves, so I decided to use parchment paper. 

With respect to what would be steamed, I decided to use flounder fillets.  I have not cooked very much with this fish and I thought it would be a good opportunity to gain some more experience.  Flounder is a flatfish species, that live on the sea floor, usually around bridge piles, docks, coral reefs and other formations.  When it comes to sustainability, flounder is one of those fish that can be difficult to monitor.  There are several different types of flounder -- such as Pacific Flounder, Summer Flounder, Yellowtail Flounder and Witch Flounder -- and, in most stores, the differentiation is not noted on any labels.  They are all sold as "flounder."  Therefore, when it comes to buying flounder, it is important to focus on where it was caught.  Generally speaking, flounder in the bay of Maine or the Northern Atlantic are considered to be threatened, as are flounder caught around Iceland.  Flounder caught in the mid-Atlantic or the Pacific Ocean are generally considered to be better alternatives, at least according to Seafood Watch.

After choosing the cooking method and the fish, I had to select the ingredients to use in the baking and steaming process.  I decided to buy whole flounder, and, use the heads and backbones to make a stock.  This stock would be the liquid that would steam the fish.  I also found a recipe that called for the fish to be steamed with oregano, fennel, tomatoes and black olives, which gave this dish a definite Mediterranean flavor.    I found this recipe on a website called Figs, Bay & Wine.  I bought everything, but forgot the fennel bulb called for in the recipe.  I decided to substitute a teaspoon of fennel seeds, which are obviously not the same as fresh fennel, but worked in this case. 

FLOUNDER EN PAPILLOTE

Recipe adapted from Figs, Bay & Wine

Serves 2

Ingredients:

2 large flounders, filleted, with heads and backbones reserved
1 onion, peeled and quartered
3 carrots, peeled
3 stalks of celery, with leaves
1 tablespoon of whole black peppercorns
1 teaspoon of fennel seeds

Extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Leaves from 1 or 2 stems of fresh oregano
2 lemons, sliced thinly across into circles
4 tablespoons of flounder stock (see below)
1 pint cherry tomatoes

A handful good olives

Directions:

1.  Prepare the flounder stock. Place the heads and backbones in a pot and cover with water.  Add the onion, carrots, celery and black peppercorns.  Bring to a boil.  Allow for a light to moderate boil for about one hour.  Strain and set aside the flounder stock.

2.  Prepare the packets of fish.  Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.  Cut two lengths of baking parchment, each about 18 inches in length or as long as needed to have enough room for the fish and vegetables, plus extra for folding. Fold each length in half with a sharp crease. Arrange on one or two baking sheets.  Rinse the flounder fillets and pat dry. 

3.  Continue preparing the packets of fish.  Open each piece of parchment as you would a book. Divide the fennel between the four pieces, placing it on the right hand side of the parchment. Season generously with olive oil, salt, and black pepper. Arrange a flounder fillet in the center of the packet, tucking under the thinner end of the fillet to create a more uniform thickness – this way the fish will cook evenly. Drizzle the fish with a little more olive oil and season again with salt and pepper. Tear over oregano leaves and sprinkle some fennel seeds. Arrange three lemon slices on top each fillet and add the tomatoes and olives.  For this recipe, I diced the olives and sprinkled them over the fish.

4.  Seal the packets of fish.  To seal the parchment packets, make one fold on the diagonal at the bottom left hand corner, creasing it sharply by pressing with your finger, as you would when you fold paper.   Add a second fold following a curve so that your packet will eventually form a half moon. Continue adding sharply creased folds, following a curve up and around the ingredients. When you reach the top, pour in two tablespoons of the flounder stock, and twist the remaining paper to seal. Repeat the process with the other packet.

5.  Bake the fish.  Place the baking sheet in the oven and bake for about 10 to 15.  When they’re finished the fish will just be flaky. 

6.  Finish the dish.  Gently slide each packet onto a plate and serve immediately, allowing each diner to open his or her own packet.  Alternatively, you could open the packets yourself and plate the fillets, topping them with the tomatoes, oregano and olives, as well as spooning any liquid in the pouch over the fish.  

ENJOY!

Tacos de Pescado (Fish Tacos)

I can remember, as a kid, going fishing with my grandfather on a few occasions.  My grandfather gave me a pole and my own tackle box.  We fished for perch or trout in the Metroparks outside of Cleveland or at nearby fish farms.  We usually fished with live bait, mostly worms.  After sticking the worms on the hook, I would do my best to cast out into the river or the pond.  I'd then sit down next to my grandfather, who had already cast his line, waiting for the fish to bite.  Meanwhile, my grandfather did his best to endure the short attention span and patience of his grandson, especially when the fish were not biting.  We did have some success catching fish, because I can remember bringing the fish home and watching my grandfather clean the fish on our picnic table. We ate the fish for dinner, and, if I can recall correctly, served with corn on the cob. I look back fondly to those times, treasuring the time I spent fishing with my grandfather.  If I have any regrets, it is that I did not go fishing with my grandfather more often.

During our recent vacation, I had the opportunity to relive those memories to a degree when I went fishing with my beautiful wife, Clare, her father and one of her cousins.  We booked a half-day excusion on the Pamlico Sound where we fished for grey tout, flounder and bluefish.  Everybody caught trout and flounder, although many had to be thrown back because they were too small.  I caught only one trout that was a keeper, and, it was the largest trout that any of us caught.  I also caught about four or five flounder; however, all were too small to keep.  In the end, our combined efforts produced enough fish that, after being cleaned, we had twenty-two fillets.

The menu for the evening was to be beef tacos.  So, we all decided that it would be great to also have fish tacos.  Personally, thoughts of fish tacos prepared in the style of Mexican or Southern Californian street food were racing through my head.  I did not have any recipes; and, in fact, I had never purchased a fish taco from a street vendor in either Mexico or Southern California.  However, I have made fish tacos several times in the past.  Those prior efforts have apparently been very successful because Clare always looks forward to the next time that I make fish tacos.  

For this occasion, I decided on a few basic steps for this recipe.  I first marinated the fish for a brief period of time using beer and citrus juice (both lemon and lime juice).  The objective was to add just enough citrus flavor to the fish.  The key to any citrus marinade is timing, because when the citrus juice comes into contact with the meat, there are chemical reactions that will cause the meat to "cook." And, if the meat is left in the citrus juice for too long, the fish will become ceviche.  While I like ceviche, that is not the meal that we wanted to make with our catch.   By adding beer to the marinade, the citrus juice becomes somewhat diluted, thereby slightly slowing down the chemical reactions.  Based upon the amount of fish I had and my prior experience, I decided that I would marinate the the fish for no more than ten minutes.

When making the marinade, I added more than just beer and citrus juice.  I used ingredients that, for me, are associated with Mexican or Southern Californian street food, such as oregano, cayenne pepper, garlic and smoked paprika.  I used the smoked paprika because I wanted to add a hint of smokiness to the fish.  If you do not have any smoked paprika, you could use ancho chile powder or chipotle powder, both of which have smoky elements in their flavors because they are made from smoked chiles that are popular in Mexican cuisine.

Finally, given the amount of fish that we had to eat, not to mention the fixings (including some very tasty guacamole), I decided to used tortillas rather than the traditional soft taco shells.   This enabled people to put a lot of fish, lettuce, tomatoes, onions and, of course, guacamole, togther to create some awesome tacos. 

TACOS DE PESCADO (FISH TACOS)

A Chef Bolek Original

Serves 10

Ingredients:
Your catch of the day (or 2 to 3 pounds of fish fillets)
1 bottle of beer (the lighter, the better)
4 lemons, juiced
4 limes, juiced
4 teaspoons of smoked paprika
4 teaspoons of cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons of dried oregano
2 cloves of garlic, diced finely
4 tablespoons of unsalted butter
Salt, to taste
Ground pepper, to taste
10 or more tortillas
All of the fixings (lettuce, guacamole, tomatoes, onions, lettuce, etc.)

Directions:
1.  Marinate the fish.  In two Ziploc bags, add one clove of garlic, the juice from two lemons, the juice from two limes, 1 tablespoon of dried oregano, 2 teaspoons of smoked paprika and 2 teaspoons of dried cayenne pepper.  Pour half of the beer into each bag.  Divide the fish evenly between the two bags. Add some salt and ground pepper.   Mix all of the contents thoroughly, making sure the fish are covered by both the liquid and the dried herbs/spices.  Let the fish marinate for no more than ten minutes.

2.  Saute the fish.  Add two tablespoons of butter to a pan on medium high heat.  After the butter has melted, saute the fish in batches.  Cook each fish for a couple minutes on each side and flip the fish to the best of your ability.  The fish will begin to break apart, which is okay. After each batch of fish is cooked, remove the fish to a plate and cover it with some aluminum foil.  Add another tablespoon of butter and, after the butter has melted, add the next batch of fish.  Cook each batch as you did the first one.

3.  Heat the tortillas.  After the fish is cooked, heat a frying man on medium heat.  Place a tortilla on the pan and allow it to heat up for one minute.  Flip the tortilla and heat the other side for one minute.  Remove the tortilla to a plate and repeat this heating process for the remaining tortillas.

4.  Plate the dish.  Serve the fish with the tortillas and all of the fixings.  I recommend the fixings include lettuce, tomatoes, onions, and guacamole.  You can also include jalapeno peppers for those who like a little spice in their food. 

This meal was the first time that I had eaten fish that I caught the same day since I went fishing with my grandfather more than twenty years ago.  The meal was also a great way to end a fun fishing trip with my Angel, my father-in-law, and one of Clare's cousins.

The memories of fishing with my grandfather, along with the experence of fishing with family on the Pamlico sound, have definitely kindled a renewed interest on my part in fishing as a recreational activity.  Now, I just need to get some free time to go fishing....

ENJOY!