Around the World in 80 Dishes: Laos

My personal culinary challenge -- Around the World in 80 Dishes -- has figuratively taken me around the world.  I have made a main course based on the cuisine of countries From Andorra to Australia, as well as many places in between.  The next challenge takes me to a region where I have not a challenge ... southeast Asia.  The next challenge requires me to make a main course from the country of Laos.  But, first, a few quick notes about Laotian cuisine.

While Laos is nestled in between Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand, its cuisine sets itself apart from its neighbors.  Laotian cuisine tends to be spicier than Cambodian and Vietnamese cuisine, due to the use of local chiles. A cornerstone of many dishes is the use of sticky rice, which could be served with breakfast, lunch and dinner.  Those chiles and fresh herbs -- including galangal, kaffir lime leaves, and lemongrass -- contribute pungent, spicy notes to dishes.

Many of those dishes may be more familiar to people than most realize.  Over the years, many Lao emigrated from their home to neighboring countries, particularly Thailand.  Some dishes that are assumed to be Thai, are actually Lao in origin.  Indeed, in southeast Asia, there is a shared heritage between the Thais and Lao, as well as the Vietnamese and Cambodians, that many dishes of each country's cuisine share common characteristics of those prepare by cooks in the countries. 

MAIN COURSE

Whenever I select a main course as part of my Around the World in 80 Dishes culinary challenge, my research often turns up what is labelled  the "national dish" or "official dish" of a country.  However, what really interests me is not what someone or some people call a country's "national dish," but what is commonly eaten by the people of that country. 

In the case of Laos, that dish would be Larb (or Laab). Generally, Laotian larb is a meat salad prepared with vegetables, fish sauce, lime and chiles served on lettuce with even more vegetables.  The result is a spicy, slightly sour dish that sets it apart from other larb dishes, such as those prepared in northern Thailand.  I have made the Thai version in the past using pork, as well as a version with shrimp, so I have a basic idea as to how to prepare the dish.  (It's kind of like cheating, but in a delicious way.)

Larb can be made with any protein, such as beef and chicken.  Beef is difficult to find in Laos, but it seemed appropriate given that the dish is often used to mark special occasion such as a housewarming, the birth of child or a holiday.  If I was in Laos, I would more than likely have the dish made with chicken, pork or duck.  (All of which sounds delicious, by the way.) 

BEEF LARB

Recipe from Bois de Jasmine

Serves 4 as appetizer, 2 as main dish

Ingredients (for the dish):

1 pound ground beef

4 shallots (2 sliced in thin rounds, 2 minced)

5 spring onions, sliced in thin rounds

2 garlic cloves, sliced in thin rounds

2 hot chile peppers, sliced in thin rounds

1 teaspoon of sugar

1 tablespoon of fish saucea

2 tablespoons of khao khua (roasted rice powder)

Ingredients (for the garnish):

Herbs (spring onions, mint, cilantro)

Lettuce leaves

Cucumber, sliced

Chiles, sliced (to taste)

1 lime, sliced

String beans (optional)

Directions:

1.  Make the khao khua.  Put two tablespoons of rice into a frying pan without oil and toast, stirring frequently, over medium low heat until it turns brown and smells well-toasted.  Remove from the stove adn crush into powder. 

2.  Make the Larb.  Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a frying pan, then add the sliced shallots, garlic, spring onions and chiles.  When they have browned, add the beef, sugar and fish sauce.  Once the beef is well cooked, add more salt, lime juice and adjust the seasonings.  Set aside and let cool.

3.  Finish the dish.  Toss beef with herbs, minced shallots and roasted rice powder.  Serve with garnishes on a side.  

*      *     *

This challenge was inspired by my desire to make larb, and, it was -- like my prior efforts -- a very delicious dish.  The relative simplicity of the dish makes it one that could be made quickly after a busy day at work.  It is one that I will make again ... and again ... and again.  Until next time ...

ENJOY!

Pan Roasted Black Grouper with Black Eyed Pea Cakes and Smoked Tomato Coulis

I was perusing the seafood section of a local store when I came across the sign: "We have the Cadillac of all groupers." The sign caught my attention.  When one refers to a "Cadillac" of anything, the implication is that it is the best. After all, a Cadillac was supposed to be the most prestigious, most luxurious of all of the General Motors cars.  The name has been used to signify something that is an outstanding example of its kind.

So, to understand what could be a "Cadillac" of groupers, one has to know the different lines or species.  There are the small species, like the Brown Grouper.  Known as the Scamp, it is relatively small and fairly common.  Then, there is the sporty species, like the Red Grouper, which is said to give the some of toughest fights when hooked.  There is the flashy species, like the Yellowfin Grouper, whose bright red or brown splotches and yellow pectorals are said to make it one of the prettiest of the grouper species.

And, there is the Black Grouper, which is the largest of the Mycteroperca species, often growing to sizes between 50 to 100 pounds.  Thus, the Mycertoperca Bonaci - or Black Grouper -  fulfills the size proportions that one would expect of a "Cadillac."  The only question is whether it also fulfills the "luxury" expectations that comes with the use of the term.  The definition of luxury is subjective. Nevertheless, the fillets of black group are thick, meaty and mild in flavor.  For most people, that would probably satisfy the definition of luxury when it comes to fish.

I have some limited experience with the Black Grouper.  A couple of years ago, I created recipe a called Spanish Black Grouper with Saffron Rice.  My goal with that recipe was to pair a subtle spice and smoke that comes with the paprika used in Spanish cuisine with the thick fillets.  While that was a delicious dish, I wanted to try something different with this fish.   I searched the Internet for some ideas and inspiration.  I found it in a recipe from the Food Network.

The Food Network recipe was fairly ambitious.  In addition to the fish, the recipe also called for black eye pea cakes, shrimp, frisee salad and smoked tomato coulis.  That is a lot of different elements. I am sure that, together, they make for a great dish.  I decided to trim down the recipe.  I would focus on the fish, the black eye pea cake and the coulis.  I "86'd" the shrimp, and decided to do a simple side salad.  After all, there should be something green on the plate.

One final note: the smoked tomatoes.  Fortunately, I have a Cameron Stovetop Smoker and I smoked the tomatoes using some pecan wood dust.  If you are not able to smoke the tomatoes, you could just make a tomato coulis or add a little ancho chile or smoked paprika to give the coulis that smoked flavor.   

PAN ROASTED BLACK GROUPER WITH

BLACK EYED PEA CAKES AND SMOKED TOMATO COULIS

Recipe adapted from Food Network

Serves 6

Ingredients (for the Black Grouper):

2 pounds of black grouper, cut into even-sized pieces 

1 1/2 tablespoons of kosher salt

1 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper

2 tablespoons virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Ingredients (for the Black Eyed Pea Cakes):

3 cups cooked black-eyed peas

1/2 cup finely sliced green onions

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon creole seasoning

1 egg

1/4 cup shredded romano

1 cup finely ground bread crumbs

2 to 3 tablespoons clarified butter

1/2 cup seasoned flour

Ingredients (for the Smoked Tomato Coulis):

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/4 cup shallots, minced

1 teaspoon garlic, minced

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

4 ripe tomatoes, smoked, peeled, seeded and roughly chopped

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Directions:

1.  Prepare the fish.  Season the fillets with salt and pepper.  In a large saute pan, heat the olive oil over a high flame, but not quite to the smoking point.  Add the butter, then quickly, just as the butter begins to brown, place the fillets in the hot oil  Allow the fish to brown well before turning it over, about 2 to 3 minutes.  Turn the fillets and brown the other side.  Once the fish is browned, place the fish on a parchment paper lined sheet pan.  Finish baking the fish in the oven for about 3 to 4 minutes at 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

2.  Make the Black Eyed Pea Cakes.  With your hands or a potato masher, smash the black eyed peas, leaving a few peas whole.  Add the green onions, red pepper, spices and egg.  Mix thoroughly.  Add cheese and bread crumbs. and mix well.  Divide the mix into six 2 1/2 inch balls.  Flatten balls to 3 inches in diameter and about 1/2 inch thick  This may be done a day ahead of time, covered and stored in the refrigerator.  Heat butter over medium high heat in a large skillet.  Lightly dust the both sides of the cakes with seasoned flour (salt and pepper) and place them in the skillet to brown.  Leave enough room between the cakes to be able to flip them over.  When the cakes are brown on both sides, place them on a baking sheet and put them in the oven at 425 degrees Fahrenheit for 7 minutes or heated through. 

3.  Make the Smoked Tomato Coulis.  In a small stainless steel sauce pot, heat the olive oil over a low heat.  Place the shallots, garlic, salt and cayenne pepper in the hot oil and cook for about 4 to 5 minutes, stirring often to prevent browning.  Add in the peeled and seeded smoked tomatoes and cook over a low heat for about 10 to 12 minutes.   Remove from heat and allow mixture to cool for about 10 to 15 minutes.  Place the cooled mixture into the blender and puree until smooth.  Stir in the vinegar and warm until ready to serve. 

4.  Plate the dish.  Place the black eyed pea cakes in the center of each plate.  Place the grouper atop atop the pea cake and place a small pool of the smoked tomato coulis near the front of the dish. 

ENJOY!