Macanese Pork Chop Bun

"The product of genius."

-- Anthony Bourdain

A fried pork chop served on a buttered Portuguese roll. One of the most favorite foods of Anthony Bourdain, which is a point that he clearly made during his visit to Macau back in 2011. It is, as Anthony says, a "distinctly Macanese creation, which will live in history." That history is said to have begun at Tai Lei Loi Kei, which is known for having created the Pork Chop Bun and been the place to eat it for more than fifty years. Although I am unable to make way way down the non-descript alley in Taipa Village to sample the original, I can try to make an adequate substitute in my own kitchen. 

To get a better understanding of what we are working with, it is best to start with the original. Tai Lei Loi Kei uses a "Brazilian pork chop," which they claim to be more tender and flavorful than other pork cuts. With some marinade and manual pounding, the end result is a pork chop that is, in their words, "flavor and tenderful." Once fried, the pork chop is placed on a marraqueta bun.

While the pork chop bun is definitely Macanese, its inspiration is unquestionably Portuguese. The island of Macau was a Portuguese colony from 1557 until 1999. Over 440 years of colonization left its mark on the island. That can be seen in the cuisine, which is perhaps one of the most cosmopolitan cuisines in the world. (I have previously posted on this subject when I prepared Galinha a Africana or African Chicken, a Macanese dish that pulls together influences from around the world.) It can also be seen in the Pork Chop Bun, which follows in the culinary footsteps of the Portuguese bifana, a pork on a bun sandwich that is said to have originated in Vendas Novas, a city southeast of Lisbon. The bifana takes on many forms across Portugal, but none of them are the Pork Chop Bun. The Chinese influences can be found in the use of Shaoxing wine, soy sauce and five-spice powder. 

The Pork Chop Bun does not have any standard toppings. One can add tomato, onions, lettuce, or sauces, but none are required to complete the experience. In some respects, just the pork chop and the bun are enough.

MACANESE PORK CHOP BUN

Recipe from Omnivore's Cookbook

Serves 4

Ingredients:

• 4 thin sliced, bone-in or boneless pork rib chops, 1 cm or 1/2 inch thick
• 2 tablespoons light soy sauce (or soy sauce)
• 2 tablespoons Shaoxing wine (or Japanese sake)
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/8 teaspoon five-spice powder
• 4 Portuguese bread rolls
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 1 tomato, sliced
• 1 onion sliced
• Lettuce leaves
• Mayonnaise, ketchup or mustard, optional

Directions:

1. Marinate the pork. Combine the soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, garlic, sugar, black pepper, salt adn five-spice powder. Place pork chops in a large Ziploc bag. Pour in marinade. Squeeze as much air out as possible and seal. Massage the bag so that both sides of the pork are coated with the marinade. Marinate in the fridge for at least 1 hour, preferably overnight. 

2. Prepare the buns. Right before cooking, slice the Portuguese bread rolls.

3. Cook the bun and pork. Heat a cast iron pan over medium heat until hot. Cook the cut sides of the Portuguese bun until browned. Pat the pork chops dry with paper towel and lightly season with sea salt. Add 2 tablespoons of oil to the same cast iron pan. Place a pork chop into the pan and press with a spatula so the chop will stay flat during cooking. When the first pork chop has cooked for about a minute, place another chop and press it with the spatula, repeating the process for each chop. Cook until both sides are evenly browned and the internal temperature reaches 145 degrees Fahrenheit.

4. Finish the dish. Place the pork chop on the bottom part of the roll. Add lettuce and tomato, if desired, place top part of roll on top. Skip the condiments and eat immediately. 

PEACE.