Around the World in 80 Dishes: Spain

As I continue with my Around the World in 80 Dishes personal culinary challenge, I have found that there often is a challenge within a challenge. Take, for example, a country like India. It is a country with thirty-six (36) states and union territories, such as Bihar in the north and Kerala in the south.  There are seemingly as many different cuisines within India as there are states and territories. The question becomes, how to choose a main course when there are so many cuisines to choose from. Admittedly, this challenge within a challenge did not present any troubles in the past. I would simply choose a dish, such as Rogan Josh in the case of India, and make it. 

With my most recent challenge, which involves the country of Spain, I decided to take a different approach.  Spain has seventeen (17) different regions, from the Azores to the Balearic Islands with many regions in between, like Galicia, Castille, Catalonia and Andalucia. Each of those regions has its own cuisine, based upon local ingredients, local cooking techniques and time-honored dishes. So exactly how do I choose a main dish?

After much thought, I decided to do something truly random.  I chose a random address in Spain.  That address would put me in a region from which I would make the main course. I turned to the Internet, which has plenty of various random address generators.  I selected one and out popped an address.  That address was located in Seville, a city in the region of Andalusia.

The random address put me in a small alley just a block or so away from the Maestranza. The best description is a picture: 

That's right, a bull fighting arena. The Real Maestranza de Caballeria de Sevilla is a 350 year old bullfighting ring that seats 12,000 people. Although construction began in 1749, the Maestranza was not fully completed until 1881. It is still in use today, with bullfighting matches taking place from March through September. However, it is the matches that take place during the Feria Abril de Sevilla or the Seville Fair that attract the most attention.

Yet, this post is not about bullfighting, it is about cooking and food. And, perhaps Andalusia is perhaps the perfect place for this culinary challenge.  The history of the region's cuisine can be traced back to at least 1100 B.C., when the Phoenicians established Cadiz. The Phoenicians brought grape vines and olive trees.  The Phoenicians were followed by the Carthaginians, the Romans, the Visigoths, and, then, the Moors. 

The Moorish rule brought many things to Andalucia, such as irrigation systems, which provided the foundation for large farms and the production of cash crops.  The Moors also brought with them a variety of foods such as oranges, lemons, eggplants, almonds, dates, peaches, apricots, rice, and coffee.  They also brought sugar and spices, such as black pepper, cumin and saffron.

By 1492, the Moors had been pushed out of the Iberian peninsula. That was also the year that Christopher Columbus set sail to the west. The "age of discovery" or the "age of exploration" (both phrases I find to be completely misleading, as the areas that were "discovered" or "explored" had already been found by their original inhabitants) led to even more foods being introduced to the cuisine of Andalucia and other Spanish regions. These include peppers, yams, tomatoes, potatoes, sweet potatoes, and avocados. These ingredients worked their way into the cuisine of the region, creating the foundation for the wide array of dishes that may find their way to the Andalusian table.

SOUP/SALAD

There is an Andalusian saying, "Del gazpacho no hey empachno." It translates as, "you do not get an upset stomach from gazpacho." There is some truth to that saying.  I have made gazpacho many times, and, I have always enjoyed this dish. But, I wanted to learn a little more about its history. 

The central ingredient in modern day gazpacho is the tomato. Yet, tomatoes did not make their way into Spanish cuisine until at least the 16th century. So, does that mean that gazpacho only goes back to the 1500s? The answer to that question is in the negative. The soup - or is it a salad (that's another debate) - actually dates back to at least the time of the Romans. It originated as a soup made with bread, olive oil, vinegar, water, garlic, and salt. It is believed that the dish traveled with Romans as they made their way to the Iberian peninsula. The dish became a staple of the region in Andalucia, especially among the poor. It was not until the 1800s that tomatoes were incorporated into the dish, creating the base of the soup - or salad - that we know today.

The key to a great gazpacho is the tomatoes. They should be fresh, ripe and off the vine. In fact, all of the vegetables that go into the dish - including the cucumber, green pepper, and garlic - should be as fresh and ripe as possible.  By contrast, it is okay if the bread has gone a little stale. While some recipes call for the use of bread, others will suggest that the bread be left out overnight. Personally, I am not sure that it matters much for the soup (or salad), given it is blended and then strained. But, cutting the stale bread into small croutons (or toasting fresh bread), does a lot when it comes to serving the dish.  

Speaking of service, gazpacho should be served with accompaniments, like those croutons.  While croutons are a traditional accompaniment, so are tropezones or chopped vegetables. These include tomatoes, bell peppers, onions and cucumbers. There may be others, such as ham and egg.  Each one of the accompaniments should be served in separate bowls.  The guest is provided with the bowl of gazpacho and then he or she can decide which accompaniments - and how much - to add to the soup (or salad). 

Finally, as to that debate about soup or salad, I have always thought of gazpacho as a soup.  It is after all a liquid with additional ingredients added to it. However, most Spanish cookbooks refer to gazpacho as a salad or liquid salad. This fact, which I did not know before undertaking this challenge, may require me to reassess my thoughts about what exactly is gazpacho.

GAZPACHO ANALUZ

Recipe from Culinaria Spain, pg. 422-23

Serves 4

Ingredients (for the Gazpacho):

• 2-3 slices of white bread
• 1 pound of ripe tomatoes, skinned, seeded and diced
• 1 cucumber, peeled seeded and diced
• 1 green bell pepper, seeded and diced
• 3-4 cloves of garlic, peeled and diced
• 1/2 cup of olive oil
• Salt
• 2-3 tablespoons of wine vinegar or sherry vinegar 

Ingredients (for the Garnish):

• Cubes of white bread
• Small cubes of tomato
• Bell pepper, diced up small
• Diced onion
• Cubes of ham
• Hard-boiled egg, diced up small

Directions:

1. Prepare the soup. Roughly break up the white bread, and pour some water over, then leave to soak for at least 30 minutes.  Put the tomatoes, cucumber, bell pepper and garlic in a blender, then add the bread and finally the oil.  Puree the entire mixture.  Add enough water as necessary to give the soup the required consistency. 

2. Continue preparing the soup. If necessary, pass the soup through a fine sieve.  Season with salt and vinegar.  Place the gazpacho in the refrigerator for a minimum of 1 hour. 

3. Finish the dish. Serve it very cold with separate bowls of white bread cubes, small pieces of bell pepper, diced onion, cubes of ham and diced had cooked eggs, which each person mixes into their soup themselves.

MAIN COURSE

For the main challenge, I was perusing Andalusian recipes when I came across a recipe for Pato a la Jerezana or Jerez-style duck.  This recipe is quintessentially Andalusian based on the "Jerez," or use of sherry in the dish.  The region is known for its production of sherry, which is a fortified wine made from Palomino grapes. The wine is aged using the solera method, which is also use for port or balsamic vinegar.  The method requires the use of as little as three or as many as nine barrels.  One barrel is filled with the sherry, and, over time, some of that sherry is moved to the next barrel, a process known as running the scales. Only the sherry in the last barrel is bottled and sold.  

This recipe presented an actual challenge for me.  I had to break down a whole duck into its constituent parts (wings, legs, breast and thighs).  I have broken down whole chickens, and, I assumed that the process would be the same.  The process was very similar, except in one respect.  As I was removing the legs, I was looking for the thighs. I separated the leg at the joint, but I could not see much of any thigh. (By the way, ducks are harder to disjoint than chickens.) I went back over what I did and proceeded to the next leg.  I removed it at the joint, but, once again, not much in the way of any thigh meat.  I thought I did something wrong, until I realized something.  Duck legs are shorter than chicken legs, and, as a result, ducks have smaller thighs. This is the reason for duck confit, which is basically the leg and the thigh.  

Once I butchered the duck, pretty much in every sense of the word, I proceeded to making the dish. The recipe is fairly straightforward for a braise: brown the meat, remove, add the vegetables, then some liquid and return the meat back for a period of time.  The time period for the braise - 45 minutes - seemed rather short; but, with the duck broken down into pieces, I assumed that would account for that timeframe. 

Once it was done, the dish was very good and rich. The combination of the rendered duck fat and the bacon made the resulting sauce very fatty (which was probably intended by the recipe's authors and Andalucian cooks).  As I look back on the dish, I probably could have used a separator to remove much of the fattiness, and then returned the liquid to a pot to cook and and become more concentrated. These ideas went beyond the recipe and are good notes for the next time when I try to make this dish.  However, for now, I think that I have completed the challenge!

PATO A LA JEREZANA (JEREZ STYLE DUCK)

Recipe from Culinaria Spain, pg. 422-23

Serves 4

Ingredients:

• 1 duck, weighing about 4.5 pounds
• Salt
• 4 tablespoons of olive oil
• 5.5 ounces of streaky bacon cut into strips
• 2 onions diced
• 2 cloves of garlic diced
• 2 carrots, sliced
• 2 ripe tomatoes, skinned and cubed
• 7 ounces of pitted green olives
• 1 cup of stock
• 1 bouquet garni (parsley, thyme, oregano, bay leaf)
• Pepper
• 1/2 cup sherry
• 2 cloves
  

Directions:

1.    Prepare the duck. Wash the duck and pat dry.  Cut into equal sized portions.  Rub thoroughly all over with salt and pepper.  Heat the olive oil in a braising pan and brown the duck portions on all sides until nicely golden brown.  Remove the portions and set them aside.

2.  Continue preparing the dish. Fry the bacon, onions and garlic in the oil until translucent. Add the carrots and fry briefly.  Stir in the tomatoes and the olives, and then pour in the stock. Add the bouquet garni and cloves.  Bring to a boil and at that point, return the duck to the pan.  Braise, covered for approximately, 45 minutes.  About 5 minutes before the end of the cooking time, stir in the sherry and season the sauce with salt and pepper to taste. 

*    *    *

In the end, I think I can say that I have successfully completed another personal culinary challenge.  The Jerez-style duck was very good. The dish combined culinary elements of Andalucia - from the olives to the sherry - to prepare a dish that utilizes a not so common protein (namely, duck).  While I think that I did a good job with respect to the main course, the true star of this challenge was the gazpacho. The soup - or salad - had the brightness of vegetables, the tartness of the sherry vinegar, and even the garlic. The accompaniments, which went beyond the typical tropezones, also helped contribute to the dish.  

More importantly, I have now completed 40 challenges, which means I am half way through my personal culinary challenge to cook dishes from around the world.  It took over 10 years to reach this point; and, I am hoping that it won't take another ten to finish the journey. I have several challenges in the works, which you can see on my Around the World in 80 Dishes page. Having reached this milestone, I am going to use that momentum to complete more challenges in a timely fashion.  Until next time,

ENJOY!

Grilled Steak with Sauce Vierge

Back in the 1980s, there was this chef.  Actually, there were a lot of chefs back in the 1980s, but there was this one chef.  He was born in southwestern France, but, he lived and cooked in Paris.  He also wrote cookbooks.  As the 1980s unfolded, this chef popularized a sauce.  That was quite a feat for a country whose cuisine is known for its sauces.  However, those sauces were stock based sauces.  This particular sauce is a fresh sauce, with fresh ingredients, like olive oil oil, lemon juice, tomatoes and basil.  It was to be used in shellfish dishes and pasta dishes, the type that would be particularly welcoming to a fresh sauce.

That chef was Michel Guérard and the sauce that he made popular goes by the name of Sauce Vierge or, literally translated, "Virgin Sauce."  (Don't ask me why it is called by that name, that question is best left for Chef Guérard.)  I had come across a recipe for sauce vierge and placed it on my short list of recipes to make.  The recipe sat on that list for a long time.  A very long time. 

At long last, I made the recipe for sauce vierge.  As I did my research, I realized that the sauce I was making bore little resemblance to Chef Guérard's recipes.  Sure, the olive oil is still there.  But the basil, lemon juice and tomato are long gone. 

The reason is that the term -- sauce vierge -- has come to represent a variety of Mediterranean sauces, many of which go by other names.  Names like "green sauce," "sauce aux herbes" and "sauce verte."  These sauces are generally a combination of olive oil, various herbs, mustard, capers, olives and other aromatics.

The particular recipe that I found and used had two things that appealed to me. First, the recipe included an additional ingredient for the sauce... a jalapeño pepper.  The pepper provided the sauce with a good, but overpowering, kick.  Second, it called for using this sauce on a grilled steak.  Although the recipe called for the use of a sirloin steak, which is a decent cut for use with sauces.  (Flank steaks or flat iron steaks are definitely better for sauces.)  I decided that I would use my favorite cut, a bone-in ribeye.  

The recipe definitely worked very well.  In fact, it worked so well, that I will definitely try it on seafood or pasta dishes.  However, depending upon the fish or pasta, I might leave out the pepper.  The kick works well with beef or other meat, but it may be a little to much for fish.

GRILLED STEAK WITH SAUCE VIERGE
Recipe from Saveur
Serves 4

Ingredients:

1/4 cup roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon of capers
12 large green olives pitted and roughly chopped
6 oil-packed anchovy filets, drained and finely chopped
4 cornichons, roughly chopped
1 shallot, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 jalapeño, stemmed and finely chopped
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon of dijon mustard
Kosher salt and 

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
4 thick top sirloin or ribeye steaks (about 2 lbs.)

 

Instructions:

1.  Prepare the Sauce Vierge. On a cutting board, pile together the parsley, capers, olives, anchovies, cornichons, shallots, garlic, and jalapeño. With a large knife, finely chop and scrape the ingredients to combine.  Transfer the parsley mixture to a large bowl and stir in 6 tbsp. of the olive oil and the mustard with a fork to make a thick and chunky sauce. You can drizzle in more olive oil for a thinner consistency, but I think the sauce is better if it is thick and chunky. Season with salt and pepper. Set the sauce aside at room temperature to let rest for 30 minutes, to allow the flavors to mingle.

2.  Grill the Steaks. Build a hot charcoal fire in a grill or heat a gas grill to high heat. Rub steaks with the remaining olive oil and season lightly with salt and pepper. Grill steaks, turning once, until lightly browned and medium rare, about 2–3 minutes per side. Transfer steaks to a platter and let rest for 3 minutes. Stir the sauce, because it will begin to separate slightly as it sits and spoon it over the steaks. Serve hot or at room temperature.

 

 ENJOY!

Flounder en Papillote

Two words -- en papillote or al cartoccio -- provide, at least for me, one of the most interesting and tasty ways to prepare fish.  It is a method baking fish in small paper parcels or packet of parchment paper or aluminum foil.  The paper or foil is folded, and the fish is inserted along with some vegetables, spices and aromatics.  A little liquid -- whether stock, wine or even beer -- is also added, which allows for the fish to be steamed and helps keep the fish moist during the cooking process. The process seems relatively straightforward, but the key is making sure that the packet is completely sealed when it goes into the oven.  This ensures that the fish cooks properly.

The history of this cooking method is something that has always intrigued me.  It is most commonly referred to as en papilotte or al cartoccio, which would suggest that the method originated in Western Europe.  To be sure, it has been used by cooks and chefs in France and Italy since at least the 17th century.  However, it has also been used by cooks and chefs around the world.  In Latin America, cooks and chefs use corn husks or plantain leaves.  In Malaysia and Indonesia, they use banana leaves.  It is water lotus leaves in China.  Regardless of what is used, the method of cooking is the same.  For this recipe, I did not have any access plantain leaves or water lotus leaves, so I decided to use parchment paper. 

With respect to what would be steamed, I decided to use flounder fillets.  I have not cooked very much with this fish and I thought it would be a good opportunity to gain some more experience.  Flounder is a flatfish species, that live on the sea floor, usually around bridge piles, docks, coral reefs and other formations.  When it comes to sustainability, flounder is one of those fish that can be difficult to monitor.  There are several different types of flounder -- such as Pacific Flounder, Summer Flounder, Yellowtail Flounder and Witch Flounder -- and, in most stores, the differentiation is not noted on any labels.  They are all sold as "flounder."  Therefore, when it comes to buying flounder, it is important to focus on where it was caught.  Generally speaking, flounder in the bay of Maine or the Northern Atlantic are considered to be threatened, as are flounder caught around Iceland.  Flounder caught in the mid-Atlantic or the Pacific Ocean are generally considered to be better alternatives, at least according to Seafood Watch.

After choosing the cooking method and the fish, I had to select the ingredients to use in the baking and steaming process.  I decided to buy whole flounder, and, use the heads and backbones to make a stock.  This stock would be the liquid that would steam the fish.  I also found a recipe that called for the fish to be steamed with oregano, fennel, tomatoes and black olives, which gave this dish a definite Mediterranean flavor.    I found this recipe on a website called Figs, Bay & Wine.  I bought everything, but forgot the fennel bulb called for in the recipe.  I decided to substitute a teaspoon of fennel seeds, which are obviously not the same as fresh fennel, but worked in this case. 

FLOUNDER EN PAPILLOTE

Recipe adapted from Figs, Bay & Wine

Serves 2

Ingredients:

2 large flounders, filleted, with heads and backbones reserved
1 onion, peeled and quartered
3 carrots, peeled
3 stalks of celery, with leaves
1 tablespoon of whole black peppercorns
1 teaspoon of fennel seeds

Extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Leaves from 1 or 2 stems of fresh oregano
2 lemons, sliced thinly across into circles
4 tablespoons of flounder stock (see below)
1 pint cherry tomatoes

A handful good olives

Directions:

1.  Prepare the flounder stock. Place the heads and backbones in a pot and cover with water.  Add the onion, carrots, celery and black peppercorns.  Bring to a boil.  Allow for a light to moderate boil for about one hour.  Strain and set aside the flounder stock.

2.  Prepare the packets of fish.  Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.  Cut two lengths of baking parchment, each about 18 inches in length or as long as needed to have enough room for the fish and vegetables, plus extra for folding. Fold each length in half with a sharp crease. Arrange on one or two baking sheets.  Rinse the flounder fillets and pat dry. 

3.  Continue preparing the packets of fish.  Open each piece of parchment as you would a book. Divide the fennel between the four pieces, placing it on the right hand side of the parchment. Season generously with olive oil, salt, and black pepper. Arrange a flounder fillet in the center of the packet, tucking under the thinner end of the fillet to create a more uniform thickness – this way the fish will cook evenly. Drizzle the fish with a little more olive oil and season again with salt and pepper. Tear over oregano leaves and sprinkle some fennel seeds. Arrange three lemon slices on top each fillet and add the tomatoes and olives.  For this recipe, I diced the olives and sprinkled them over the fish.

4.  Seal the packets of fish.  To seal the parchment packets, make one fold on the diagonal at the bottom left hand corner, creasing it sharply by pressing with your finger, as you would when you fold paper.   Add a second fold following a curve so that your packet will eventually form a half moon. Continue adding sharply creased folds, following a curve up and around the ingredients. When you reach the top, pour in two tablespoons of the flounder stock, and twist the remaining paper to seal. Repeat the process with the other packet.

5.  Bake the fish.  Place the baking sheet in the oven and bake for about 10 to 15.  When they’re finished the fish will just be flaky. 

6.  Finish the dish.  Gently slide each packet onto a plate and serve immediately, allowing each diner to open his or her own packet.  Alternatively, you could open the packets yourself and plate the fillets, topping them with the tomatoes, oregano and olives, as well as spooning any liquid in the pouch over the fish.  

ENJOY!

Agnello alle Olive

Sheep and lamb have historically held an important place in the cuisine of Abruzzo.  The rugged land of mountains and hills served as the backdrop for herds of sheep.  Herders would drive the sheep to pastures at higher elevations during the spring and summer and, when the temperatures began to cool in the fall, they would return to lower elevations.  The abundance of sheep meant that there was an abundance of mutton and lamb for use in Abruzzese cooking.  This lamb is generally considered to have a better quality than lamb from other regions, primarily due to those grazing lands.  

This recipe features that lamb (although I did not buy it from a herder in Abruzzo).  It is reflective of Abruzese cuisine: simple and frugal.  The recipe calls for a handful of some basic ingredients, like lamb, olives, lemons, flour and chile peppers.  When these ingredients are combined together, however, the produce a wholesome lamb dish with a rich sauce that has a lot of depth to its flavor. 

Finally, the authors suggest a variation of this dish that incorporates mushrooms.  They suggest adding some wild mushrooms during the last half-hour of cooking the lamb.  I did not do that for this recipe, but, when I make it again, I will add those mushrooms.

AGNELLO ALLE OLIVE

Recipe adapted from  Hess & Silver, Regional Italian Cuisine, at 226

Serves 6

Ingredients:

2 pounds boneless leg of lamb

5 ounces of pitted black olives (about 30-40 olives)

Juice from 1 to 2 lemons

1 tablespoon of dried oregano

1 cup of beef stock

1 dried chile pepper

1 tablespoon of flour

6 tablespoons of olive oil

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Directions:

1.  Brown the lamb.  Dust the meat with the flour.  In a dutch oven, heat the olive oil, add the meat, and brown evenly on all sides.  Season with salt and pepper and moisten with the juice of 1 lemon and 1/2 cup of stock.  Cover and simmer on low heat for 30 minutes.  

2.  Continue cooking the lamb.  Remove the pits from the olives (if necessary) and seed the chile pepper.  Mince the 20-30 of the olives and the pepper. After 30 minutes of cooking time (step 1), add the olives and pepper to the lamb.  Sprinkle half of the oregano over the lamb, then moisten with the remaining 1/2 cup of beef stock.  Cover and finish cooking for about 1 1/2 hours or until the meat is soft and flaky.  Add the remaining whole olives. 

3.  Finish the dish. Season the gravy with salt, pepper, and lemon juice.  Thinly slice the meat and place on a preheated platter.  Pour the gravy over the meat and sprinkle it with oregano.  Serve hot.

PAIRING THIS RECIPE

Of course, a lamb dish from Abruzzo calls out to be paired with wine, especially a wine from the region.  Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is one of my favorite Italian wines because the wines are very good and much cheaper than other wines like Chianti.  I have reviewed a couple of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo wines, including the Castellana and the San Lorenzo.  Both would work perfectly with this dish.

ENJOY!

Pesce al Palermitana

Shortly after I married my beautiful Angel, Clare, I had to travel for work to Las Vegas.  We had only been married for a few months and I was going to have to spend a couple weeks away from her.  Although the work opportunity was an important one, I also wanted to spend some time with my wife in Las Vegas.  Fortunately, she was able to fly out and join me for the second week of my trip.

I had a special dinner planned for one evening during the week Clare was in Las Vegas.  Before I arrived, I read an article in La Cucina Italiana about a restaurant in the Wynn, called Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare, which was setting itself apart with respect to Italian coastal cuisine.  The chef and owner, Paul Bartolotta, had fresh seafood shipped from Italy to Las Vegas on an almost daily basis.  Both Clare and I love seafood, and, based upon what I had read, there was no question that this would be the restaurant where we could have a special dinner.

The view from our cabana at Bartolotta

I can still remember that dinner.  After arriving, we were escorted by the host through the restaurant and outside to a small cabana.  Our table was within the covered refuge, keeping us away from the hot desert sun while providing us with a view of an amazing pool.  The pool had large, metallic globes suspended in the water as schools of koi fish swam around.   After being seated and ordering some wine, the waiter came by our table with a cart.  The cart was loaded with fresh seafood, all on ice.  The waiter explained the options, whole fish, lobsters, shrimp, and much, much more.   We ordered a whole fish, which was cooked and served perfectly.  

Ever since that night, I have wanted to go back with Clare to Bartollota.  We have not been able to do that, partly because, when we got to Las Vegas, we end up trying other restaurants.  Recently, I was reading an article in Saveur, which included a recipe from Paul Bartollota for Pesce alla Palermitana.  I decided that I would make the recipe, so that both my beautiful and I could relive some of the memories of that wonderful night.

PESCE ALLA PALERMITANA

Recipe by Paul Bartolotta and printed in

Saveur, Vol. 146, Apr. 2012

Serves 4

Ingredients:

3/4 cup of extra virgin olive oil

3 cups of cherry tomatoes, halved

2 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

8 ounces of fingerling potatoes, halved lengthwise

1 cup of dry white wine

1/4 cup pitted small green olives

1/4 cup capers, rinsed

3 tablespoons of oregano, roughly chopped, plus 5 sprigs

Juice of 1 lemon

2 one pound red snapper fish, gutted, cleaned and scaled

1 tablespoon of chopped parsley

Directions:

1. Prepare the sauce and cook the fish.  Heat oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit.  Heat 6 tablespoons of oil in a 14 inch high sided skillet over medium-high heat; add tomatoes and garlic, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring until soft, about six minutes.  Add potatoes, wine, olives, capers, oregano sprigs, juice and 3/4 cup water; boil.  Season fish with salt and pepper, add to skillet; transfer to oven, and cook, basting fish with sauce every few minutes, until fish is cooked through, about twenty minutes.

2.  Finish the sauce.  Transfer fish to serving platter, and transfer skillet to stove over medium high heat.  Cook sauce until reduced and thickened, about ten minutes   Stir in remaining oil, chopped oregano, parsley and salt and pepper to taste.   Pour sauce over fish to serve.

PAIRING THIS RECIPE

The best pairing for this dish is white wine.  The use of fish as an ingredient and the use of white wine in the recipe are the two principal signs that white wine would work best.  The use of green olives, lemon and capers, require a smoother white wine, like a Chardonnay or a Sauvignon Blanc, but lighter grape varietals, like Viognier and Falaghina, would also work well.  A couple of wines that I have reviewed that should go well with this dish include:

Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard -- Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay
Comus, Maryland, USA
Flavors of pears with some apples, only a hint of oak.

Feudi di San Gregorio -- Falanghina
100% Falaghina
Calabria, Italy
Flavors of apples, grapefruit, with a little lemon and pineapple

 ENJOY!

Roasted Whole Pompano with Potatoes, Tomatoes, and Olives

One of my favorite things to do is cook a whole fish.  So, it came as no surprise that when I saw whole pompano at a local grocery store, I bought one.  It was the first time that I had seen pompano in the grocery store.  Generally, the whole fish tend to be red snapper, rockfish or branzino (sea bass).  I could not pass up the opportunity to cook with this fish.  

Pompano or Florida Pompano can be found in the coastal waters along the eastern United States.  It is a relative of the jack Pompano are fast growing fish and reproduce early in life. These features helped the pompano recover from being overfished (although there are still some concerns with respect to the fishing of pompano along the Atlantic coast of Florida).  So much so that the pompano is now considered a good alternative by the Monterrey Bay Aquarium's Seafood watch. 

I used a recipe from Bon Appetit, as a guide, although I made a few changes.  I stuffed the fish with fresh thyme and basil, rather than thyme and marjoram.  I also baked the fish in white wine, a blend of Chenin Blanc and Viognier, rather than a combination of white wine and water. 

ROASTED POMPANO WITH POTATOES, TOMATOES

Recipe adapted from Bon Appetit

Serves 2

Ingredients:

1 whole pompano, cleaned

3/4 pounds of russet potatoes, cut into rounds

2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

2 lemon slices, cut in half

4 sprigs of fresh thyme

2 sprigs of fresh basil

1/2 cup of white wine

4 small tomatoes, quartered

6 whole Kalamata olives

Salt, to taste

Pepper to taste

Directions:

1.  Bake the potatoes.  Toss the potato slices in 1 tablespoon of olive oil.  Lay the slices out on a baking sheet, and sprinkle with one tablespoon of the fresh thyme, salt and pepper.  Bake until almost tender, about twelve minutes.

2.  Prepare the pompano.  Sprinkle salt and pepper on the outside and inside of the fish.  Stuff the fish with the sprigs of thyme and basil, as well as the slices of lemon.  Add a tablespoon of oil to a baking dish and spread it.  Add the fish to the baking dish.  Add the white wine and sprinkle the rest of the remaining thyme. 

3.  Roast the fish.  Roast the fish for fifteen minutes.  Scatter the olives and tomatoes around.  Tuck in reserve potatoes.  Continue to roast until the fish is opaque in the minutes, about ten to fifteen minutes. 

4.  Plate the dish. Fillet the fish and place the fillets on each plate, with tomatoes, olives and potatoes. 

PAIRING THIS DISH

As with most fish, a white wine is the best pairing for this Roasted Whole Pompano.  A Viognier or Chenin Blanc (or blend of the two) works very well.  The fruit flavors provide a complement to the earthier flavors of the potatoes, tomatoes and olives in the dish.  Other white wines, such as a Vouvray, Pinot Gris or even an unoaked Chardonnay could also work well this dish. 

ENJOY!

Around the World in 80 Dishes: Uruguay

After a great meal of Camarao Mozambique and Matata, I depart from Mozambique to the location of my next challenge ... the country of Uruguay.  A relatively small country in South America that has long coastlines and only one land border, which it shares with Brazil.  The indigenous people of Uruguay (i.e., before Spain's colonization of the area) are the Charrúa people.  Although the Charrúa settled in Uruguay, the Guaraní ultimately provided the country with its name.  "Uruguay" is named after Uruguay River; however, the word "Uruguay" means "River of Painted Birds" in the Guaraní language.  

Uruguay's location has greatly influenced its cuisine.  Most notably, the country's proximity to Argentina and Brazil may very likely be the reason why Uruguayan cuisine is very beef-centric.  Brazil has also contributed other ingredients to Uruguayan cooking, such as beans, coconut, rice and manic.  In addition, the country's history as a Spanish colony has also left its mark on the dishes and cooking techniques of the Uruguayan people.  The Spanish are not the only Europeans to have influenced Uruguayan cuisine. Waves of immigrants -- from Portugal, France, Italy, England and Germany -- have contributed in various ways to the food, beer and wine that are enjoyed both in homes and restaurants.

During my research for this challenge, I narrowed down the potential main courses to two iconic Uruguayan dishes:  Steak Milanesa and Chivitos al Pan.  Steak Milanesa is akin to country fried steak ... a rather thin cut of beef, breaded and fried to a delicious golden brown.  The dish is very popular in Uruguay, as well as in Argentina.  By contrast, Chivitos al Pan is uniquely Uruguayan.  It is more than simply a steak dish.  It is an gastronomic experience ... slices of filet mignon, bacon, and ham piled on top of each other, along with lettuce, tomato, grilled onions, hard boiled egg, olive tapenade and red peppers.  All of these ingredients are held into place with a generous slathering of mayonnaise and bookended with a big roll.  This dish is so popular in Uruguay that it is sometimes referred to as the "national dish."  With such a pedigree, how could I turn down the challenge to make my own Chivitos.

MAIN COURSE

So, for this challenge, I am making Chivitos al Pan, the sandwich version of the dish.  (Chivitos al plato is a more "formal" version with all of the ingredients served on a dish).  The story behind the Chivito takes on almost a legendary quality.  On day, more than fifty years ago, a woman walked into a restaurant called "El Mejillon" in Punta del Este, which is a famous summer resort.  The woman went to the owner and asked, something like "quiero comer la carne de chivito" or "I would like to eat some baby goat meat."  The owner did not have any goat meat to serve.  Instead, he prepared a sandwich with a list of ingredients that resemble the shopping list for an average family.  The owner called the dish "Chivito" or "baby goat."

The first time I heard about Chivitos was while I watched an episode of Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations.  Tony and his brother visited Chiviteria Marcos to try what Tony called a "mind-scrambling sandwichness," and "the gift that keeps on giving."  Here is a clip from that episode:

Having watched Tony devour what can only be described as a carnivore's dream, I wanted to create my own truly Uruguayan Chivitos experience.  Rather than hop the first flight to Montevideo, I decided that I would incorporate it into my Around the World in 80 Dishes challenge.  I did a lot of research to focus on the ingredients that are critical to making a Chivito.  I scoured recipes, many of which seemed rather conservative compared to what I saw on No Reservations.  As you watch the clip, you did not see one slice of ham or one slice of cheese.  Instead, you saw slices of meats and cheeses, with toppings added.

A couple of notes about this recipe.  Filet mignon is cut in small pieces.  In order to make the beef "wide" enough for the sandwich, I suggest that you slice the beef in quarter inch slices.  Place one slice between two sheets of plastic wrap and, using a rolling pin, gently begin to "roll" the meat.  Use the rolling pin once, turn the meat 90 degrees, and use the rolling pin again.  Repeat until the slice of filet mignon is thin and even.  Then repeat this process with each of the remaining slices.  In addition, I just wanted to note that the olive tapenade can be either green or black olives, or a combination of the two.  I used a spicy tapenade made by the Louisiana Sisters, which was given to me as a gift by Clare's parents.  

CHIVITOS AL PAN

Recipe adapted from Uruguayanfood.com

Serves 1

Ingredients:
1 large sandwich bun, like a ciabatta roll
2 thin slices of filet mignon
2 slices of ham
2 slices of mozzarella cheese
3 slices of bacon
1/2 cup of sliced onions
1-2 slices of tomato
1-2 slices of lettuce
2 tablespoons of diced olives or olive tapanade
1 egg, fried or hard boiled
4 slices of red pepper
A good amount of mayonnaise

Directions:
1.  Prepare the hot toppings (bacon and onions).  Fry the bacon in a pan until crisp.  Remove the bacon from the pan and add the onions and fry then onions until golden brown.  Heat the broiler.

2.  Saute the filet mignon.  In a clean pan, saute the filet mignon for about one minute and then flip.  Remove and set aside.

3.  Construct the Chivito.  Place the steal on the lower bun.  Add the ham, bacon, onions, bacon, tomato, red peppers, lettuce, cheese, tapenade and egg.  (In the alternative, you can place everything under the cheese.)  Place the sandwich under the broiler until the cheese begins melt. Once the cheese begins to melt, remove the sandwich from the broiler.  Slather the top of the bun with mayonnaise and place it on top of the sandwich. Serve immediately.

Before this challenge, my favorite sandwich was the Philly cheesesteak.  After this challenge, my favorite sandwich is the Chivito. Although a cardiologist may recommend that I only have one Chivito per year, the wait is truly worth it.

In the end, I only made the main course as part of this challenge.  I did not make an appetizer, soup, salad or even a drink.  I am fine with that because the main course included all of the food groups  and doubled down on the meat group.  Well, until next time ...

ENJOY!

Rockfish Provencal

Recently, I decided that I wanted to make a nice meal for my wife.  I did not know quite what to make, and, I perused a bunch of recipes until I came across one for Halibut Provencal.  I went to my local grocery store, but they did not have halibut, and many of my choices -- such as cod -- were not very sustainable. There was one fish that is rated as sustainable and, even better, it is a local fish from the Chesapeake bay ... rockfish.

Now, not all rockfish are sustainable and, indeed, the name "rockfish" is a little misleading.  Many fish go by different names when sold in the store, which makes buying fish based upon sustainability a major challenge.  Rockfish is a very good example because it may be labeled with many completely different names, such as Red Snapper, Black Bass and Striped Bass.  On the West Coast, a "rockfish" is more than likely a snapper while, on the East Coast, it is more than likely a striped bass.

So, it is important to see where the fish is caught, and that will more often than not tell you if the fish is sustainable.  Rockfish or Striped Bass caught in the Chesapeake Bay are sustainable because, unlike some of the other residents of the bay (most notably blue crabs and oysters), there are still sufficient populations of rockfish in the bay and the amounts of rockfish that may be caught are subject to strict regulation.

With all of that said, I decided to make Rockfish Provencal, which is a great dish that brings together all of the flavors of Provence, such as garlic, fennel, tomatoes, olives and sage. This is a very delicious dish.

ROCKFISH PROVENCAL

Adapted from About.com 

Serves 4

Ingredients:

1 1/4 pounds of Rockfish

3 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil

1 clove of garlic, diced finely

1/4 teaspoon of crushed red pepper flakes

2 shallots, sliced thinly

1 fennel bulb, chopped

1 can of whole, peeled tomatoes

1/2 cup of bottled clam juice

12 black olives, pitted

1/2 teaspoon of salt

1/4 teaspoon of black pepper

1 tablespoon of fresh sage, chiffonade or cut into fine strips 

Directions:

1.  Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.

2.  Heat the olive oil in a deep, ovenproof skillet over medium heat.  Saute the garlic and red pepper flakes for about a minute.  Add the shallots and fennel, continuing to saute for about another five minutes.  Add the tomatoes and the clam juice.  Breakdown the tomatoes using a potato masher until they are in large pieces.  Remove from the heat and stir in the olives.

3. Season the rockfish with salt and pepper.  Arrange the rockfish over the hot tomato mixture in the skillet.  Bake in the preheated oven for about fifteen to twenty minutes, until the cook is fished through.  Stir in the sage chiffonade into the tomato mixture.

4.  Plate the fish first and then spoon the tomato mixture over the fish.

ENJOY!

For more about sustainable choices when buying Rockfish, check out Seafood Watch.