Around the World in 80 Dishes: Croatia

Slowly, but surely, I am making my way around the world with the goal of making a main course from 80 different countries (with four bonus meals made based upon the cuisines of peoples who do not have their own state).  The selection of countries is somewhat random, somewhat by opportunity.  My 29th challenge falls in the latter category.  I knew I would be making a seafood dish and I had it in my mind to make a brodetto, which is an Italian fish soup (also known as Cacciucco in Tuscany or even Bouillabaise in France).  As I was searching for a recipe online, I came across one for Brodet.  And that became my 29th challenge ... to make that dish, which is a main course from the country of Croatia.

Very briefly, an independent Croatian kingdom emerged in the 10th century A.D. The independence eventually faded when the country came under a personal union with Hungary.  While Croatia remained a separate state, it was effectively controlled from Budapest, and, the front lines in the wars against the Ottoman Empire.  When the Ottomans were driven back, Croatia became part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.   After World War I ended, which saw the breakup of that empire, Croatia became part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia.  It was united with other states or regions, including Slovenia, Serbia, Bosnia-Herzegovina and Macedonia. Croatia had a brief period of "independence" during World War II, when it was allied with Nazi Germany, but the country found itself back in a broader multi-ethnic state -- namely, Yugoslavia -- after that war.  Croatia remained part of Yugoslavia until it was able to obtain its independence in 1991.  Since that time, it has been known as the Republic of Croatia.

This history, as briefly recounted above, provides some insight into the culture and cuisine of Croatia.  As one could expect, the centuries under Austro-Hungarian rule would show through with German and Hungarian influences in some of the cuisine.  This influence is particularly pronounced in the cuisine of two of three regions of Croatia.  These regions are Slavonia, which consists of the North and East of the country, as well as central Croatia, which includes the capital of Zagreb.  The food features ingredients such as black pepper, paprika and garlic, as well as dishes of smoked meats, breaded meats, goulash and stuffed cabbage grace the plates here.

And, then there is the third region.  It is the coastal region, stretching from the Istrian peninsula down all the way down the coast.  This region is known as Istria and Dalmatia.  The coastline lies on the opposite side of the Adriatic sea from Italy.  Thus, it seems only logical that the Croats would have their own version of a Brodetto.  From Porec to Dubrovnik, and everywhere in between (except for that small sliver of coastline that belongs to Bosnia-Herzegovina), there are ports and fishing villages where local fishermen could go out and return with a bounty that could end up in a fish stew.  Of course, the fishermen sell off all the good fish and keep the less desirable ones for the stew.  That fish stew would become my personal culinary challenge. 

MAIN COURSE

This challenge represents an instance where I am making a dish that represents the cuisine of one country, even though I know that there are similar dishes in other countries.  Indeed, there are some similarities between a Croatian Brodet and an Italian Brodetto.  The similarities lie in the use of garlic onions and tomatoes in the base.  There are also differences.  A Brodet uses additional vegetables, such as leeks, and red wine vinegar which is not usually used in a Brodetto.  (The cook probably drinks the wine as he makes the Brodetto, as I often do when I make the dish). 

This Brodet is a little more luxurious than one would probably find being made by local fishermen at a Croatian fishing town.  I used monkfish, black grouper and halibut.  Each fish contributed to the dish, whether by texture (monkfish) or taste (grouper and halibut).  I also used some medium sized shrimp (about 21 to 26 count) and some mussels.  As for the wine, I could not locate any Croatian red wine, so I went with a wine from an Italian province across the water ... a Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (which is a wine I have used to make an Abruzzese Brodetto).

The recipe I used is from Arousing Appetites, which also recommended serving polenta with the Brodet.  A polenta was made for this dish, although it is not in the picture.  

BRODET

Recipe adapted from Arousing Appetites
Serves 6-8

Ingredients (for the brodet):

2/3 cup olive oil

1 heaping handful of fresh parsley (about 1 cup when chopped)

1 lemon juiced

15 cloves garlic, minced

1 pound of monkfish (or similar denser, firmer, meatier fish)

1 pound of grouper (or similar flavorful, flaky fish)

1 pound of halibut

1/2 pound of raw, medium size shrimp (21-26 count)

1/2 pound of mussels, washed

2 onions, chopped

2 small leeks, the white and green stalk parts halved and thinly sliced

2-3 fresh tomatoes, peeled and diced

2-3 tablespoons tomato paste

1 cup of red wine

1 teaspoon of dried red pepper flakes

1 tablespoon of red wine vinegar

2 bay leaves

3 stalks fresh rosemary, chopped

4 cups fish stock or water

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Ingredients (for the polenta):

2 cups water

2 cups fish broth

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup polenta

2 tablespoons butter

1 cup grated Parmesan (optional)

Salt, to taste

Pepper, to taste

Directions:

1.  Marinate the fish.  In a food processor, combine the fresh parsley, 1/2 cup olive oil, 4 cloves of garlic and lemon juice together to create a thick and rich puree.  In a large bowl, rub the puree into the fish and shrimp and then let marinate for at least 1 hour.

2.  Begin making the polenta.  Add water, fish broth and salt in a sauce pot and bring it to a boil.  Add the polenta and whisk vigorously through the water.  Keep the pot on high heat as the water beings to re-boil.  Once the pot begins to boil again, turn the heat down to the lowest possible simmer setting.  Simmer the polenta for at least 45 minutes, whisking and [ the polenta around as frequently as every 2 to 3 minutes.  

3.  Begin to make the Brodet.  After about 15 minutes of cooking the polenta, bring a soup pot with the remaining oil over high heat.  Once the oil is hot, add the onion and remaining minced garlic.  Saute for five minutes.  Add the leeks and saute for another 2 minutes.  As the leek and onion become gradually softer, add the tomatoes and tomato paste and mix vigorously.  Reduce the heat to medium high and cook for another 2 minutes.  Once everything is mixed well and the tomatoes have softened, add the red wine, red wine vinegar and red pepper flakes.  

4.  Add the fish.  Layer the fish on top of the vegetables in the soup pot.  Once all the fish is in, add the fish stock, bay leaves and rosemary into the pot.  Keep the soup pot uncovered and cook on high heat for 15 minutes, but do not stir the pot.  If you need to jostle the ingredients around, pick up the soup pot by the handles and give it a bit of a shake.  Add more fish stock or water as needed to keep the fish submerged in case of evaporation.  

5.  Add the shellfish.  After about 15 minutes, place the shrimp and mussels on top of all other ingredients and submerge in the broth.  Cover the soup pot and cook for about 3 to 5 minutes to help cook the shellfish. After 5 minutes, remove the brodet from the heat and set aside for a moment.

6.  Finish the dish.  Take the polenta off the heat and add 2 tablespoons of butter.  As the butter melts and the polenta becomes creamy, finish by adding the cheese to the polenta and whisking it through until the cheese melts.  Serve the brodet with a side of polenta. 

*          *          *

Having made Cacciucco and Brodetto, I have to admit that I was not expecting to have a different culinary experience with the Brodet.  However, the Brodet did have its own flavor and taste.  The use of the wine and the vinegar definitely gave the broth a more acidic taste that a Brodetto.  Also, the marination of the fish in the parsley, garlic, olive oil and lemon juice paste added another layer of flavors to the broth.

Overall, this was a very good dish.  The presentation was clearly lacking, but the taste made up for it.  With another challenge in the books, I can now look forward to the next one.  Given my last two challenges (this one and Italy) focused heavily on seafood, I might just tip the scales towards a challenge that involves something that walks on land, such as a cow, lamb or chicken.  Until next time ...

ENJOY!

Pan Roasted Black Grouper with Black Eyed Pea Cakes and Smoked Tomato Coulis

I was perusing the seafood section of a local store when I came across the sign: "We have the Cadillac of all groupers." The sign caught my attention.  When one refers to a "Cadillac" of anything, the implication is that it is the best. After all, a Cadillac was supposed to be the most prestigious, most luxurious of all of the General Motors cars.  The name has been used to signify something that is an outstanding example of its kind.

So, to understand what could be a "Cadillac" of groupers, one has to know the different lines or species.  There are the small species, like the Brown Grouper.  Known as the Scamp, it is relatively small and fairly common.  Then, there is the sporty species, like the Red Grouper, which is said to give the some of toughest fights when hooked.  There is the flashy species, like the Yellowfin Grouper, whose bright red or brown splotches and yellow pectorals are said to make it one of the prettiest of the grouper species.

And, there is the Black Grouper, which is the largest of the Mycteroperca species, often growing to sizes between 50 to 100 pounds.  Thus, the Mycertoperca Bonaci - or Black Grouper -  fulfills the size proportions that one would expect of a "Cadillac."  The only question is whether it also fulfills the "luxury" expectations that comes with the use of the term.  The definition of luxury is subjective. Nevertheless, the fillets of black group are thick, meaty and mild in flavor.  For most people, that would probably satisfy the definition of luxury when it comes to fish.

I have some limited experience with the Black Grouper.  A couple of years ago, I created recipe a called Spanish Black Grouper with Saffron Rice.  My goal with that recipe was to pair a subtle spice and smoke that comes with the paprika used in Spanish cuisine with the thick fillets.  While that was a delicious dish, I wanted to try something different with this fish.   I searched the Internet for some ideas and inspiration.  I found it in a recipe from the Food Network.

The Food Network recipe was fairly ambitious.  In addition to the fish, the recipe also called for black eye pea cakes, shrimp, frisee salad and smoked tomato coulis.  That is a lot of different elements. I am sure that, together, they make for a great dish.  I decided to trim down the recipe.  I would focus on the fish, the black eye pea cake and the coulis.  I "86'd" the shrimp, and decided to do a simple side salad.  After all, there should be something green on the plate.

One final note: the smoked tomatoes.  Fortunately, I have a Cameron Stovetop Smoker and I smoked the tomatoes using some pecan wood dust.  If you are not able to smoke the tomatoes, you could just make a tomato coulis or add a little ancho chile or smoked paprika to give the coulis that smoked flavor.   

PAN ROASTED BLACK GROUPER WITH

BLACK EYED PEA CAKES AND SMOKED TOMATO COULIS

Recipe adapted from Food Network

Serves 6

Ingredients (for the Black Grouper):

2 pounds of black grouper, cut into even-sized pieces 

1 1/2 tablespoons of kosher salt

1 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper

2 tablespoons virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Ingredients (for the Black Eyed Pea Cakes):

3 cups cooked black-eyed peas

1/2 cup finely sliced green onions

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon creole seasoning

1 egg

1/4 cup shredded romano

1 cup finely ground bread crumbs

2 to 3 tablespoons clarified butter

1/2 cup seasoned flour

Ingredients (for the Smoked Tomato Coulis):

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/4 cup shallots, minced

1 teaspoon garlic, minced

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

4 ripe tomatoes, smoked, peeled, seeded and roughly chopped

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Directions:

1.  Prepare the fish.  Season the fillets with salt and pepper.  In a large saute pan, heat the olive oil over a high flame, but not quite to the smoking point.  Add the butter, then quickly, just as the butter begins to brown, place the fillets in the hot oil  Allow the fish to brown well before turning it over, about 2 to 3 minutes.  Turn the fillets and brown the other side.  Once the fish is browned, place the fish on a parchment paper lined sheet pan.  Finish baking the fish in the oven for about 3 to 4 minutes at 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

2.  Make the Black Eyed Pea Cakes.  With your hands or a potato masher, smash the black eyed peas, leaving a few peas whole.  Add the green onions, red pepper, spices and egg.  Mix thoroughly.  Add cheese and bread crumbs. and mix well.  Divide the mix into six 2 1/2 inch balls.  Flatten balls to 3 inches in diameter and about 1/2 inch thick  This may be done a day ahead of time, covered and stored in the refrigerator.  Heat butter over medium high heat in a large skillet.  Lightly dust the both sides of the cakes with seasoned flour (salt and pepper) and place them in the skillet to brown.  Leave enough room between the cakes to be able to flip them over.  When the cakes are brown on both sides, place them on a baking sheet and put them in the oven at 425 degrees Fahrenheit for 7 minutes or heated through. 

3.  Make the Smoked Tomato Coulis.  In a small stainless steel sauce pot, heat the olive oil over a low heat.  Place the shallots, garlic, salt and cayenne pepper in the hot oil and cook for about 4 to 5 minutes, stirring often to prevent browning.  Add in the peeled and seeded smoked tomatoes and cook over a low heat for about 10 to 12 minutes.   Remove from heat and allow mixture to cool for about 10 to 15 minutes.  Place the cooled mixture into the blender and puree until smooth.  Stir in the vinegar and warm until ready to serve. 

4.  Plate the dish.  Place the black eyed pea cakes in the center of each plate.  Place the grouper atop atop the pea cake and place a small pool of the smoked tomato coulis near the front of the dish. 

ENJOY!

Spanish Black Grouper with Saffron Rice

For ichthyologists (those who study fish), it goes by the name of Mycteroperca Bonaci.  For everyone else, including fishermen and chefs, it goes by the name of Black Grouper.  Generally, grouper has been on my "bucket list" of fish to cook.  I have cooked with many different types of fish ... including bluefish, branzino, mahi mahi, pompano, red snapper, rockfish, and sheephead.  However, I have never cooked grouper before.

The reason why is that black grouper -- or any grouper for that matter -- is rare around where I live.  A search for the fish usually ends in failure.  Any sighting is usually found on the menu of a pricey restaurant or the seafood section of an upscale grocery store.  Those sightings are not only very rare, but pricey as well.  As a result, I have to wait for special occasions, like our recent vacation in the Outer Banks, to enjoy that fish.  (By the way, if you are there, you should check out the Diamond Schoals Restaurant in Buxton where they have a very delicious fried grouper sandwich on their menu.  They also have a seafood market where you can take some fresh fish "to go" and cook for yourself.)  That vacation really inspired me to cook with the fish; and, when I saw it in the seafood section of a grocery store, I took the bait and paid (a lot) for a pound of black grouper.

Photo is from Florida Museum of Natural History

The black grouper is a big, beautiful fish. According to the Florida Museum of Natural History and the Smithsonian Institution, black grouper can grow to more than four feet in length and over 170 pounds.  Most of this growth occurs over the first ten years of their life, but grouper can live for as long as thirty years.  As they grow, their skin develops interesting designs over their olive or gray bodies.  Dark rectangular blotches, and hexagonal bronze spots.  The fins have long black lines that offset and frame the large body of the fish.  These amazing fish are found along rocky bottoms and coral reefs between 32 to 98 feet in depth.

As with any fish, sustainability is an important consideration for me.  Sustainability is particularly important with respect to a fish like the grouper, which lives for a long period of time and, despite its rapid grown rate, its reproduction rate may not keep up with fishing pressures.  Fortunately, Seafood Watch notes that there are strict fishery guidelines that have helped to stabilize and even increase the black grouper populations near Florida and in the Gulf of Mexico.

With a pound of black grouper in my hands, the question quickly turned to how I should prepare this fish.  The fillets are thick and meaty, which, at least to me, means that they are perfect for a simple rub.  I decided to go with a Spanish-inspired rub.  I have always liked the combination of paprika and smoked paprika, along with other ingredients like parsley or garlic.  As the fish marinates in the rub, I decided that I would make a Spanish style rice ... starting with the basic ingredients of a sofrito -- bell peppers, onions, tomatoes, and garlic -- and then cooking the rice with those ingredients.  I also decided to add a very special ingredient (to go with the special protein) ... saffron.  As the rice cooked, I decided that the grouper should be broiled rather than pan seared or pan fried.  The reason is that I did not want to burn the rub.  After all, my goal was to make a Spanish Black Grouper, not a Cajun Black Grouper.

The end result was very delicious.  The thick fillets, with the large flaky meat, was delicious. The rub worked well with the fish and the rice, which was also very tasty.  To round out this wonderful meal, I paired a Muga Rioja Blanco with the Spanish Black Grouper with Saffron Rice.  The crisp nature of this wine, with its aromas of almond and wild herbs works perfectly with this dish.

SPANISH BLACK GROUPER WITH SAFFRON RICE

A Chef Bolek Original

Serves 2-4

Ingredients (for the Grouper):

1 pound of black grouper, cut into 2 to 4 fillets

1 1/2 teaspoons of paprika

1 1/2 teaspoons of smoked paprika

1 teaspoon of onion powder

1 teaspoon of garlic powder

1 teaspoon of dried parsley

1 teaspoon of kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon of crushed red pepper

Ingredients (for the rice):

1/2 large tomato, peeled and diced

1/2 yellow bell pepper, de-seeded and diced finely

1/2 orange bell pepper, de-seeded and diced finely

2 cloves of garlic, minced

1 pinch of saffron

1 cup of rice

2 cups of water, plus more if needed

A splash of white wine

Sea salt, to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Sliced almonds

Fresh cilantro, chopped 

Directions:

1.  Prepare the fish.  Mix all of the dry ingredients in small bowl.  Apply the rub to all sides of the grouper.  Cover the grouper and place in the refrigerator until about fifteen minutes before cooking the fish.

2.  Prepare the rice.  Heat the olive oil on high heat in a deep pan with a cover.  Add the bell pepper and onion and reduce the heat to medium.  Continue to saute for a couple of minutes until the onion begins to soften.  Add the tomato and garlic and continue to saute, stirring occasionally, until the onion and bell pepper have completely softened.  Add the rice and stir constantly to slightly toast the rice.  Add the water and the wine, stir to make sure that the rice is covered by the liquid and bring to a boil.  Once the liquid is boiling, cover the pan, reduce the heat, and let it simmer until the liquid is absorbed by the rice.  Check occasionally to make sure that the rice is cooked through.  If the liquid is absorbed but the rice is still not cooked, add more liquid, about 1/2 cup at a time until the rice is al dente.

3.  Cook the fish.   Heat the broiler in the oven.  Place the fish under the broiler.  While the fish is cooking, toast the almonds in a pan (without any oil or butter) over high heat for about a minute, shaking consistently to avoid burning.  After about seven minutes, flip the fish and cook for about seven minutes more or until the internal temperature reaches about 145 degrees Fahrenheit.   Remove from the heat.

4.  Plate the dish.  Place some rice on the bowl.  Place the fish over the rice and garnish with the almonds and cilantro. 

ENJOY!