Prive Vineyard's Mélange (2008)

The label reads, as you stroll past the winery, the lavender gardens draw you toward the old world brick oven.  The chimney fills our patio with the aroma of cherry wood embers.  Rustic pizzas and breads appear begging for a great bottle of wine and friends to share it with.  Those words bring back memories for myself, because I have visited the winery, strolled around the patio and seen that old world brick oven.

The winery is Privé Vineyard, a small family-owned vineyard in the Willamette Valley of Oregon.  Both Clare and I visited the vineyard as part of our honeymoon, which included a two day, chauffeured trip to over a dozen vineyards in the valley.  While we can say that our experience at each of those vineyards was amazing, the one that probably left the biggest impression upon us was Privé.

I have previously wrote about Privé when I reviewed a couple of their wines in the past, like the Le Nord (2006) and Le Sud (2008).  Both of those wines were estate-wines, produced only with grapes grown on the property.  However, the demand for Le Nord and Le Sud, as well as the limited amount of grapes grown on the estate (it is only a couple acres in size), the winemakers have branched out to produce wines with grapes grown elsewhere.  One of these wines is the Mélange, which is the winemaker's nod to a Bordeaux-style blend.

The Mélange is produced Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec grapes.  All of the grapes are cultivated in Washington State.  The winemakers blend the grapes together and then age the wine in 15% new French oak barrels.  The result is a substantial red wine that can cellar for up to 12 years.  Neither Clare nor myself were patient enough to let the bottle of Mélange (2008) age until 2020.  We lasted only about five years.  

The Mélange pours a nice magenta or crimson red color.  The aromatic elements of the wine suggest dark red fruit, something that carries over into the taste of the wine.  I definitely sensed the pleasing aroma and taste of both blackberries, dark cherries and plums.  There was also a nice hint of spice and pepper, which often came through in the finish.  The wine itself is somewhat dry, with manageable tannins that are not overwhelming.  

The winemakers describe this wine as having been blended for the pizzas that come out of their old world brick oven.  This wine is far more versatile, and could be paired with a range of proteins (beef, lamb, chicken and pork) that are roasted, braised or grilled.  It could also be paired heartier vegetable dishes.  

Overall, the Mélange is another excellent wine made by a very small, boutique vineyard.  As we drank this wine, Clare and I were reminded of why we like Privé so much.  The wine sold for about $28.00 a bottle; however, Privé is no longer producing the Mélange.  The winemakers are looking to transition from a Bordeaux style blend to a Rhone style blend.  Both Clare and I will definitely looking for that wine when it comes out.

ENJOY!

Black Ankle Vineyards Leaf Stone Syrah (2008)

According to legend, there was a grape varietal cultivated around the ancient Persian city of Shiraz.  The Phocaeans -- ancient Ionian Greeks who were some of the first to make long sea voyages.  Some of those voyages led to the establishment of Massilla (now Marseilles).  The Phocaeans are said to have brought the the grape varietal from Shiraz to Massilla.  They planted the grape in what is now southern France.  Eventually, the grape made its way northward, to regions such as the Rhône valley, where Syrah firmly took its place in the world of French wine. 

This story is just one of a few legends about how the Syrah grape made its way to France.  However, there are many other stories about how the grape has since made its way around the world.  A stroll down the aisles of a wine shop reveal Syrah wines not just from France, but also the California, Chile, Argentina and Australia (where it is known as Shiraz).  And, if one looks hard enough, you can even find Syrah wines from some unexpected places ... like Maryland.

About a year ago, both Clare and I tried a Syrah wine from Black Ankle Vineyards called the Leaf Stone Syrah.  The wine is predominantly Syrah, with a breakdown of 81% Syrah, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, 3% Viognier, 1% Malbec, 1% Merlot.  The wine is aged for 18 months in French oak barrels, with only 392 cases produced.  We had purchased a few bottles of the 2008 vintage, and, we opened one to enjoy.  At that time, the winemaker suggested decanting the wine, so as to allow it some time to open, or letting the wine cellar for a while to allow the wine to mature.  We decanted the wine and I began to write a wine review.  I did not finish the review at that time, because I wanted to wait to see how the wine developed.  Recently, we opened another bottle of the 2008 Leaf Stone Syrah.  I decided to let it decant as well, just to allow the wine a little air.  And, then I decided to finish that wine review. 

Generally, Syrah wines are very bold, fruit wines.  Joshua Wesson, the author of Wine & Food, describes the grape as having two main expressions: the northern Rhône style, with its "earthy quality, dark fruit and firm tannins" and an Australian style, best described as "jammy" with spice.  From the description provided by Black Ankle, one would assume that the goal was a northern Rhône wine.  The winemakers describe the wine as having "savory hints of smoke, leather, hickory, and plum on the nose," as well as "a lovely earthen and spice edge to the fresh and tart flavors of black cherry, cranberry, olive and vanilla."  These descriptions are apt for a Syrah from the northern Rhône valley.

Our first bottle of the wine did resemble the description, with both earthy and dark fruit elements int the aroma and the taste, which was definitely full of dark red fruits, and, earthy aspects reminiscent of the ground from which the vines grew.  However, after about a year, the wine had matured.  Much of the description -- smoke, leather, and hickory -- had mellowed to a significant degree, allowing the fruit of the wine to be more dominant in both the aroma and the taste.  In some ways, the expression of this wine gravitated away from the Rhône and toward Australia.  The second bottle was definitely the fruit forward, bold wine one would expect from a Syrah, but those earthy elements evolved into more of a spice and pepper.  This new element was very pleasing and it complemented the dark red fruit -- those plums, cranberries and black cherries -- in a very good way. 

Like any Syrah wine, the Leaf Stone Syrah pairs very well with beef and lamb dishes, whether grilled, broiled or braised.  Think a grilled steak or braised short ribs.  It will also work with substantial chicken and pork dishes, such as braises or stews.  

We still have a couple bottles left of this vintage.  It will be interesting to see if there is any more development in the wine.  Only time will tell!

ENJOY!

Clos La Coutale Cahors (2010)

The city was known Divona Cadurcorum.  Or, at least that is the name given to the city by the Roman conquerors when they brought Gaul into the empire.  The Romans brought viticulture to the city and its surroundings, giving birth to some of the oldest vineyards and wines in France.  The city and its vineyards outlasted the Roman Empire.  They grew and flourished into the Middle Ages.  At that time, the city became known as Cahors, and winemakers continued to work those surrounding vineyards, cultivating grapes to produce wines that eventually became known as the "black wine."   

The term "black wine" is a descriptive one, used in place of the wine's more well known name, Cahors. The description was fairly apt, because the wine is a dark red, tannic wine, that was rough when young but that mellowed with age.  Although first produced by the Romans, the "black wine" or Cahors grew in popularity during in the Middle Ages.  Bottles graced the tables of royalty, and filled the glasses of the King Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine, as well as King Francis I of France.  The "black wine" was not only popular in royal courts, but also in the church.  Pope John XXII declared in the fourteenth century that Cahors was the sacramental wine and table wine of the Papacy.  The wine even made its way to Russia, where it was known as Kaorskoy and used as the sacramental wine of the Russian Orthodox Church.

Recently, a bottle of Cahors wine produced by Clos La Coutale also graced my table.  The Clos La Coutale is a 60 hectare vineyard located on the alluvial floor of a valley in Southwestern France through which the the River Lot meanders. The winemakers follow the rules of the Appellation d'Origine Protégée, producing their wine using 80% Malbec grapes, also known locally as Côt or Côt Noir.  (The rules of the appellation require at least 70% Malbec grapes).  And, while the rules allow for the use of Merlot or Tannat grapes to complete the wine, the winemakers chose Merlot grapes for this particular wine.

The Clos La Coutale pours a dark, inky burgundy red, which harkens back to the "black wine" of the Middle Ages.  As a 2010 vintage, this wine is still relatively young, which means it is rough and tannic.  It should be decanted before enjoying it at this time.  After being exposed to a little air, the Cahors opens to reveal a bouquet of very ripe dark cherries, blackberries and plums, along with some earth, slate or minerals. 

The Cahors is a very bold wine, young and brash.  The tannins are still very strong, but, the fruit does emerge as the wine sits in the glass.  The dark cherries are the first to emerge, filling the body of the wine, as the plums appear in the finish.  There are also elements of earth, tobacco and spice that appear in the taste of the wine.  The tannins nevertheless are present throughout the wine at this age, resulting in a very dry wine.  

Given its popularity during the Middle Ages, this wine may be paired with medieval dishes, such as Conyenges en Gravey (Rabbits in Gravey), Chaudyns for Swann (Swan with Entrails Sauce), or Monnchelet (Veal or Mutton Stew). For those of us who live in the twenty-first century, this wine is best paired with grilled or roast meats, such as grilled ribeyes or strip steaks, as well as a pork roast. 

While Cahors may have graced the tables of Kings and Popes, it now sits on the shelves of grocery stores.  No ducats required.  It sells for about $16.99 a bottle.

ENJOY!

Black Ankle Vineyards Slate (NV)

Recently, my beautiful Angel, Clare, met a couple of longtime friends for a wine tasting at a vineyard ... in Maryland.  I have heard about wineries in the Free State, but, I know very little about them.  Clare got to learn about one particular vineyard, Black Ankle Vineyards, which is located in Frederick County, Maryland.

Black Ankle Vineyards has been in business for about three years.  It is growing an impressive array of grapes.  The red grapes include Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot.  The white grapes include Chardonnay, Gruner Veltliner and Viognier.  This is pretty impressive for a vineyard that is located in Maryland, rather than in California, Oregon or Washington State.

Black Ankle's winemaking process is also rather interesting.  The winery uses once-used or brand new barrels for aging.  Lighter reds are aged for months in once-used barrels, while heavier reds are aged in new barrels.  The winery ages its wines between sixteen to eighteen months in the barrels.  After her wine tasting, Clare bought a bottle of Black Ankle Vineyard's Slate, a blend of six different grapes.

The Slate is made with grapes grown on a hillside of decomposing slate with veins of quartz. The wine is made with 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Syrah, 22% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec and 1% Petit Verdot. This wine does not have a vintage because it is made primarily from grapes picked during the 2007 and 2008 harvests, along with grapes from the 2010 harvest.

The wine pours a bright crimson red, with tones much fuller than other wines that I have tried.  The aroma is full of red berries, like ripe cherries, strawberries and blackberry.  The winemaker suggests dried plum, blackberry, currant and a little cracked black pepper.   Those berries carry over to the taste, but there they are joined by some other flavors such as black pepper or white pepper.  There is also a hint of minerality. 

Black Ankle produced only six hundred cases of the Slate.  The wine has an ABV of 13.9%.  The bottle is available at the vineyard's tasting room and a bottle sells for $45.00.  

ENJOY!

Bodega Luigi Bosca Malbec (2007)

When I review wines, I have mentioned the fact that I do not buy wines for the label, but for the grape or the terroir.  Well, recently, I bought a wine because of the label.  There was no swirl of colors or eye-catching images.  What caught my eye was the word "Malbec," along with the phrases "single vineyard," and "Denominacion de Origen Controlada Lujan de Cuyo." 

Malbec is one of the six grapes that can be used in the blending of Bordeaux wine.  However, Malbec is becoming increasingly popular not because of its use in Bordeaux, but in the production of Malbec wines in Argentina.  Indeed, Malbec is considered by many as the wine of Argentina.

The phrase "single vineyard" means that all of the grapes used to produce the wine come from one vineyard, as opposed to several vineyards.  Many winemakers produce wines with grapes from more than one vineyard.  However, after learning about Oregonian Pinot Noirs, many of which are single vineyard wines, I have learned about how much better a wine can be when all of the grapes come from a particular vineyard. 

And, as for the phrase, "Denominacion de Origen Controlada Lujan de Cuyo," it is the similar to the designations of Denominazione di Origine Controllata in Italy or the American Viticultural Area in the United States.  According to the winemaker, the D.O.C. Lujan de Cuyo was created in 1989 to protect and regulate the Malbec wines produced in the region.  The winemaker claims that the D.O.C. protocol is the "most demanding" in the world, although I had some difficulty finding the requirements of the D.O.C. as it pertains to the growing of the grapes and producing the wine. 

Luigi Bosco produces this wine with Malbec grapes from its La Linde vineyard, which is located in the Vistalba estate outside of Mendoza, Argentina. The wine is aged for fourteen months in French oak barrels and then another year in the bottle. 

The wine pours a deep purple in color.  According to the winemaker, the wine displays ripe cherries and plums, along with mocha and blackberries.  For me, the aromatic elements of the wine are full of earth and spice, with some cherries and plums in the background.  The wine is very fruit forward, with the cherries, blackberries and dark cherries overtaking the earth and spice, which follow through in the finish.

The winemaker suggests pairing this wine with red meat, as well as partridge, quail or turkey.  Another suggest is pairing this wine with hard cheese, such as Sardo or Reggianito, two hard Argentinian cheese.  These may be hard to find in the United States, so you can substitute with cheese such as Pecorino, Parmigiano Reggiano, or Grada Padano.  I paired this particular wine with the dish Nicaraguan-Style Churrasco, which was a good pairing.  The fruit in the wine's flavor helped to round out the vinegar and garlic flavors of the Nicaraguan chimichurri sauce. 

This is a very good Malbec wine, perhaps one of the best Argentinian Malbecs that I have had to date.  This wine is available at Whole Foods Market for about $19.99 a bottle. 

ENJOY!