I have always been fascinated by the lesser known wine producing regions of the world. Places such as Kakheti, Georgia or the Dalmatian coast of Croatia. My fascination with such reasons lies with the fact that, inevitably, those little known regions are often producing wines with even lesser known grape varietals.
Take, for example, the small country of Armenia. The country consists of 11,484 square miles located entirely in the Caucasus Mountains. Yet, it is the valleys, especially those in the Ararat and Armavir regions, where people have been producing wines for centuries. There are over 400 grape varietals that can be found in Armenia, but only 31 of those varietals become wines.
One of these grapes is the Kangun. The white varietal is a hybrid between the Rkatsiteli grape (which is one of the oldest grape varietals in history) and the Sukolimansky grape (which itself is a cross between Chardonnay and another grape varietal). The majority of Kangun grapes never make it to a wine bottle. Instead, they are destined for Armenian brandy. Those grapes that become wine produce light, hay or straw colored wines, that are full of white fruits, honey and other elements.
My introduction to the Kangun grape came in an unexpected way. I went to my local Syrian/Middle Eastern market looking for a very specific wine - the Karas Classic Red. The store did not have any more of the red wine. Instead, it had bottles of the Karas Classic White. Needless to say, given how much I like the red wine, I decided to give the white wine a try.
The Classic White is a blend of three grapes - Kangun (50%), Chardonnay (40%), and Viognier (10%). The wine pours in very light hay color, giving a yellowish hue to what you can see through the glass. The citrus notes come through in the aroma, with some grapefruit and a hint of lemon or pineapple as well. As expected, some of these aromatic elements also carry through to the taste of the wine. The crispness of the wine hinted at the Chardonnay grapes, presenting in some respects as an unoaked wine. (I tried to find how this wine was aged, whether in oak barrels or in stainless steel, but was not successful.) The wine label boasts of a "solid mineral structure," but I was not able to pick up much minerality or any earthiness in the wine.
This wine was good enough to get me to sit down to type out a review. (I had previously decided to reduce the number of wine and beer reviews that I do for this blog in an effort to focus more on cooking.) That says something about the wine. It is definitely worth a try and provides an interesting first step into the experience of Armenian wine.
ENJOY!
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