Around the World in 80 Dishes: Australia

It has been a while since I enjoyed some Tsebhi Sega and D'Nish Zigni as part of my challenge to prepare a main course from Eritrea.  That was a difficult challenge, because finding and authenticating recipes used in Eritrean cuisine is not very easy.  Now, I face a new challenge that, once again, takes me across the world.  I find myself with the challenge of making a main course from Australia.  

In some respects, this challenge is just as hard as the challenge to cook a main course from Eritrea, Bhutan or Paraguay.  What is Australian cuisine?  For most Americans, thoughts of Outback Steakhouse or Shrimp on the Barbie come to mind.  Obviously, I want to do more with this personal culinary challenge.  I thought about incorporating Aboriginal or Native Australian cuisine into this challenge.  I had a problem: it was difficult to find some of the ingredients used in native dishes.  I did a fair amount of research; however, I eventually relented, setting aside the idea of making a Native Australian dish as part of this challenge. 

THE MAIN DISH

But, that still leaves me with picking a main course from Australian cuisine.  I ultimately chose a dish that has an interesting history ... Carpetbag Steak.  This dish did not originate in Australia; instead, it originated in the United States.  According to the Food Timeline, oysters were considered a luxury in the nineteenth century, and cooks combined them with a lot of different ingredients.  The first recipes began to appear in American cookbooks in the late nineteenth century. The recipe went by different names -- such as Stewed Steak wtih Oysters or Steak with Oysters -- and usually involved cooking the oysters on top or outside of the steak. 

Around the turn of the twentieth century, someone introduced the dish to Australia, where it became popular.  As early as 1905, the recipe began to appear in cookbooks such as The Goulburn Cookery Book, Ms. Forster Rutledge (The National Trust: Sydney, Australia) and The Shauer Cookery Book, Misses A. and M. Schauer (Edwards, Dunlop & Co.: Brisbane & Sydney, Australia).  These recipes generally followed the same pattern: find a thick cut of steak (either a filet mignon or a strip steak), make an incision in the steak, insert the oysters, sew up the steak, and cook or grill the steak until it was done. 

The combination of oysters and steak happens to bring together two of my most favorite ingredients.  So, I decided to make this dish as a part of my personal culinary challenge.  I could have followed those old recipes, but I found a more recent recipe for Carpetbag Steak posted on Whats4Eats.  This recipe added another dimension to the dish, namely a sauce.  The steak is stuffed with oysters and pan-seared until cooked.  The steak is removed from the pan, the pan is removed from the flame,  and either brandy or cognac is added.  This is the start of the sauce.  Beef stock is latter added along with butter as a thickener.  I thought the idea of being able to serve the Carpetbag Steak with a sauce would elevate what is already a  luxurious dish.  The one thing I changed with respect to the recipe is that I did not use brandy or cognac.  I did not have either liquor on hand and did not want to spend the money on them because I do not drink hard liquor.  So, I decided to use something far more Australian ... Shiraz wine ... to produce a red wine sauce that could be drizzled over the steak once it is served.

CARPETBAG STEAK

Recipe from Whats4Eats

Serves 4

Ingredients:

4 thick cuts of filet mignon or New York strip steaks

8 to 10 oysters, cleaned and shucked

1/4 cup of Worcestershire sauce

2 tablespoons of lemon juice

3 tablespoons of vegetable oil

1/4 cup of cognac or brandy (or red wine)

1 cup of beef stock

4 tablespoons of butter at room temperature

Salt, to taste

Ground black pepper, to taste

Directions:

1.  Prepare the steak and oysters. Using a thin boning knife, cut a small incision into the side of each stage just big enough to insert the oysters.  Move the knife back and forth inside each steak to create a pocket.  In a bowl, mix together the oysters, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice and salt and pepper to season.  Set aside to marinate for at least thirty minutes.

2.  Stuff the steaks.  Pour a little of the marinade into each pocket and stuff each steak with two or three oysters.  Secure the opening with toothpicks and let the steaks rest at room temperature for about thirty minutes to allow the flavors to meld.

3.  Cook the steaks.   Heat the oil in a large skillet or saute pan over medium-high heat until it just starts to smoke.  Season each steak with salt or pepper. Sear the steaks in the hot oil, letting them cook for about three minutes per side for medium-rare.  To make them more well done, reduce the flame to medium and cook for another two or three minutes for medium, or another four to six minutes for well done.  These times will vary depending upon the thickness of the steaks.

4.  Make the sauce.  Place the steaks on warm plates while you make the sauce.  Remove the skillet or saute plan from the flame and carefully pour in the cognac or brandy (or wine).  Return the pan to the medium flame and heat, scraping up any bits from the bottom until almost evaporated.  Then add the beef stock and simmer to reduce its volume by one-half.  (I added a few oysters to cook in the sauce while it was reducing.)  Remove from heat, adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper and whisk in the butter.  

5.  Plate the dish.  Serve the steaks with a little of the sauce poured over each steak.

*     *     *

Overall, this was a good dish.  I think that the steak was prepared well.  I really liked the oysters stuffed inside of the strip steak.  I would probably work a little more on developing the sauce, maybe adding some oyster liqueur or using the cognac/brandy when making the sauce.  This is the great thing about cooking, there is always something more that can be done.  Until next time...

ENJOY!

Around the World in 80 Dishes: Uruguay

After a great meal of Camarao Mozambique and Matata, I depart from Mozambique to the location of my next challenge ... the country of Uruguay.  A relatively small country in South America that has long coastlines and only one land border, which it shares with Brazil.  The indigenous people of Uruguay (i.e., before Spain's colonization of the area) are the Charrúa people.  Although the Charrúa settled in Uruguay, the Guaraní ultimately provided the country with its name.  "Uruguay" is named after Uruguay River; however, the word "Uruguay" means "River of Painted Birds" in the Guaraní language.  

Uruguay's location has greatly influenced its cuisine.  Most notably, the country's proximity to Argentina and Brazil may very likely be the reason why Uruguayan cuisine is very beef-centric.  Brazil has also contributed other ingredients to Uruguayan cooking, such as beans, coconut, rice and manic.  In addition, the country's history as a Spanish colony has also left its mark on the dishes and cooking techniques of the Uruguayan people.  The Spanish are not the only Europeans to have influenced Uruguayan cuisine. Waves of immigrants -- from Portugal, France, Italy, England and Germany -- have contributed in various ways to the food, beer and wine that are enjoyed both in homes and restaurants.

During my research for this challenge, I narrowed down the potential main courses to two iconic Uruguayan dishes:  Steak Milanesa and Chivitos al Pan.  Steak Milanesa is akin to country fried steak ... a rather thin cut of beef, breaded and fried to a delicious golden brown.  The dish is very popular in Uruguay, as well as in Argentina.  By contrast, Chivitos al Pan is uniquely Uruguayan.  It is more than simply a steak dish.  It is an gastronomic experience ... slices of filet mignon, bacon, and ham piled on top of each other, along with lettuce, tomato, grilled onions, hard boiled egg, olive tapenade and red peppers.  All of these ingredients are held into place with a generous slathering of mayonnaise and bookended with a big roll.  This dish is so popular in Uruguay that it is sometimes referred to as the "national dish."  With such a pedigree, how could I turn down the challenge to make my own Chivitos.

MAIN COURSE

So, for this challenge, I am making Chivitos al Pan, the sandwich version of the dish.  (Chivitos al plato is a more "formal" version with all of the ingredients served on a dish).  The story behind the Chivito takes on almost a legendary quality.  On day, more than fifty years ago, a woman walked into a restaurant called "El Mejillon" in Punta del Este, which is a famous summer resort.  The woman went to the owner and asked, something like "quiero comer la carne de chivito" or "I would like to eat some baby goat meat."  The owner did not have any goat meat to serve.  Instead, he prepared a sandwich with a list of ingredients that resemble the shopping list for an average family.  The owner called the dish "Chivito" or "baby goat."

The first time I heard about Chivitos was while I watched an episode of Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations.  Tony and his brother visited Chiviteria Marcos to try what Tony called a "mind-scrambling sandwichness," and "the gift that keeps on giving."  Here is a clip from that episode:

Having watched Tony devour what can only be described as a carnivore's dream, I wanted to create my own truly Uruguayan Chivitos experience.  Rather than hop the first flight to Montevideo, I decided that I would incorporate it into my Around the World in 80 Dishes challenge.  I did a lot of research to focus on the ingredients that are critical to making a Chivito.  I scoured recipes, many of which seemed rather conservative compared to what I saw on No Reservations.  As you watch the clip, you did not see one slice of ham or one slice of cheese.  Instead, you saw slices of meats and cheeses, with toppings added.

A couple of notes about this recipe.  Filet mignon is cut in small pieces.  In order to make the beef "wide" enough for the sandwich, I suggest that you slice the beef in quarter inch slices.  Place one slice between two sheets of plastic wrap and, using a rolling pin, gently begin to "roll" the meat.  Use the rolling pin once, turn the meat 90 degrees, and use the rolling pin again.  Repeat until the slice of filet mignon is thin and even.  Then repeat this process with each of the remaining slices.  In addition, I just wanted to note that the olive tapenade can be either green or black olives, or a combination of the two.  I used a spicy tapenade made by the Louisiana Sisters, which was given to me as a gift by Clare's parents.  

CHIVITOS AL PAN

Recipe adapted from Uruguayanfood.com

Serves 1

Ingredients:
1 large sandwich bun, like a ciabatta roll
2 thin slices of filet mignon
2 slices of ham
2 slices of mozzarella cheese
3 slices of bacon
1/2 cup of sliced onions
1-2 slices of tomato
1-2 slices of lettuce
2 tablespoons of diced olives or olive tapanade
1 egg, fried or hard boiled
4 slices of red pepper
A good amount of mayonnaise

Directions:
1.  Prepare the hot toppings (bacon and onions).  Fry the bacon in a pan until crisp.  Remove the bacon from the pan and add the onions and fry then onions until golden brown.  Heat the broiler.

2.  Saute the filet mignon.  In a clean pan, saute the filet mignon for about one minute and then flip.  Remove and set aside.

3.  Construct the Chivito.  Place the steal on the lower bun.  Add the ham, bacon, onions, bacon, tomato, red peppers, lettuce, cheese, tapenade and egg.  (In the alternative, you can place everything under the cheese.)  Place the sandwich under the broiler until the cheese begins melt. Once the cheese begins to melt, remove the sandwich from the broiler.  Slather the top of the bun with mayonnaise and place it on top of the sandwich. Serve immediately.

Before this challenge, my favorite sandwich was the Philly cheesesteak.  After this challenge, my favorite sandwich is the Chivito. Although a cardiologist may recommend that I only have one Chivito per year, the wait is truly worth it.

In the end, I only made the main course as part of this challenge.  I did not make an appetizer, soup, salad or even a drink.  I am fine with that because the main course included all of the food groups  and doubled down on the meat group.  Well, until next time ...

ENJOY!