That is all.
Using food, beer, wine, and, of course, cooking to promote empathy, learning, and understanding.
Wednesday, February 23, 2022
Sunday, February 20, 2022
Gazpacho con Bogavante (Gazpacho with Lobster)
This particular elected official, who represents the 14th district of the State of Georgia, tried to evoke many things with that statement. There is the reference to the gulag, which was the prison system of the Soviet Union from 1918 to 1955. This not a particularly apt comparison. While the D.C. jail definitely has its issues (by way of example, overflowing sewage, lack of adequate medical care, and a history of violence), an estimated 1.2 million to 1.7 million died in the Soviet gulags.
And then there is the Representative's reference to the Nazi gestapo, the Geheime Staatspolizei, or German Secret Police, which enforced the brutal and inhumane policies of Adolf Hitler's Nazi regime. Except, this particularly uninformed Republican Representative called referred to that organization as the gazpacho. Gazpacho is a cold soup from Andalusia, Spain. It is the furthest thing from Herman Goring's conception of a secret police force, or Reinhard Heydrich's utilization of that force to facilitate the Holocaust, murdering millions of Jews, Poles, and Soviets, along with hundreds of thousands of Roma (or Romany) and disabled people. (The estimates exceed 17 million being killed during the Holocaust).
GAZPACHO CON BOGAVANTE
Recipe from Jose Andres, available at Food Network
Serves 6
Ingredients (for the gazpacho)
- 2 pounds of tomatoes, diced
- 1/2 cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced
- 1/2 green pepper, seeded and diced
- 1 cup of water
- 6 tablespoons of Spanish extra virgin olive oil
- 2 tablespoons of sherry vinegar
- 3 ounces of bread, torn into small pieces
- Kosher salt
Ingredients (for the lobster and dressing):
- 2 (1 1/4 pound lobsters)
- Kosher salt
- 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
- 10 tablespoons Spanish extra virgin olive oil
Ingredients (for the garnish):
- 4 plum tomatoes
- 1 cucumber peeled
- Kosher salt, as needed
- 1 red pepper, seeded, cut into tiny dice
- 1 green pepper, seeded and cut into tiny dice
- 2 shallots, cut into tiny dice
- Olive oil, for frying
- 4 (1/2 thick) slices of bread, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
- Spanish extra virgin olive oil to garnish
- Minced chives
- Fleur de sel, to garnish
Directions:
1. Make the gazpacho. In small batches, mix all of the ingredients in a blender until very smooth. Pay attention to the consistency. You my have to add more water, as the water content in the ingredients may vary. Strain and chill.
2. Make the lobster and dressing. Fill a large pot with water and add plenty of salt. Bring to a boil and add lobsters. Cook for 1 minute. Remove from water, drain and chill. Once the lobsters are cool, take off the head and remove the coral and liquid. Pass the coral through a chinois or fine-mesh sieve. Set aside the resulting liquid for use in the dressing. Peel lobster tails and cut each tail into 6 medallions. Carefully crack the claws and remove the meat. The idea here is to keep the claw meat whole. Split the claw meat in half lengthwise. Refrigerate the lobster until needed.
3. Prepare the dressing. In a bowl, whisk together the reserved coral, vinegar and oil until smooth and blended. Season with salt to taste. Set aside.
4. Make the garnish. Cut the ends off the tomatoes, cut the tomatoes in half lengthwise. Peel back the skin and flesh to expose the seeds. Remove the seeds, taking care to keep the mass whole. The point here is to remove the tomato seeds and their surrounding gel intact. Set aside. (Reserve the tomato flesh for another use.)
5. Continue to make the garnish. Cut the cucumber in half lengthwise and remove seeds. Sprinkler the cucumber generously with salt and let sit for an hour in a colander in the sink. (The salt will cause the cucumber to release water.) Rinse the cucumber and pat dry with paper towels. Cut the cucumber into a tiny dice. In a bowl, combine the cucumber, peppers and shallot. set aside.
6. Fry the bread. Pour the oil for frying into a large saucepan to a depth of 2 inches. Heat over medium heat until a deep fry thermometer inserted into the oil reads 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Fry the bread cubes until golden brown. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the croutons to a paper towel-lined plate to drain.
7. Finish the dish. Pour the chilled gazpacho in a pitcher. In the center of each bowl, place 2 lobster medallions, 1 claw half and 1 tomato seed "fillet." Arrange some of the cucumber mixture around the edge of the blow, sprinkle with chives and top with 4 croutons. Drizzle the dressing around the lobster and drizzle the lobster with some of the extra-virgin olive oil. Finally sprinkle everything lightly with the fleur de sel. At the table, set the bowls in front of your guests and pour some of the gazpacho into each.
ENJOY!
Tuesday, February 15, 2022
Hamachi Kama
The Hamachi or Japanese Yellowtail (Source: Clovegarden) |
HAMACHI KAMA
Recipe from Hunter Angler Gardener Cook
Serves 4
Ingredients:
- 1/3 cup lemon juice
- 1/3 cup lime juice
- 1/3 cup orange juice
- 1 cup soy sauce
- 1/4 cup mirin or other rice wine
- 4 yellowtail collars
- Sesame Oil
Directions:
1. Prepare the marinade. Mix the lemon juice, lime juice, orange juice, soy sauce and mirin in a heavy plastic bag or lidded container. Add the yellowtail collars. Marinate overnight or up to 1 day. If the collars are not submerged, then them periodically so that they get good contact with the marinade.
2. Prepare the basting sauce. Pour the marinade into a small pot and bring it to a boil. Reduce it by half and set it aside.
3. Grill the collars. Pat the collars dry with paper towels and coat with a film of sesame oil. Get your grill nice and hot and clean the grates. Grill the collars over high heat, basting with the reduced marinade, for about 10 minutes to 20 minutes, depending on how large the collars are and how hot the fire is. The collars must be fully cooked and a little charred. Serve with steamed rice and a salad.
ENJOY!
Wednesday, February 9, 2022
West African-Style Broiled Lobster Tails
"The American relationship with shellfish would not be the same without the African and African-American presence."
The statement of culinary historian and chef, Michael Twitty, refers to the impact that Africans and African-Americans have had on the cuisine of this country, specifically with respect to shellfish, such as lobsters and crawfish. Before being brought to the New World, Africans had extensive experience catching, preparing and eating shellfish. Twitty recounts that experience along the African coast from Senegal to Benin. Whether it is lobster in spicy okra stews of Sierra Leone or the large shrimp thrown on red hot grills in Benin, it is well worth the read.
Indeed, it was Twitty's words that drew me to this particular recipe for West African-style Broiled Lobster Tails. Twitty noted the red brick slipper lobsters or spiny lobsters that could be found in a Senegalese market, along with the local cooks who knew how to prepare the crustaceans with available ingredients, including tomatoes, ginger, garlic and habanero peppers. Some of those ingredients - such as the garlic and the chiles - find their way into this recipe, as does the Maggi cube, which seem to find their way into many African recipes.
The foregoing is not just African culinary history, it is also American culinary history. The Africans who were forcefully brought to the New World as slaves brought their knowledge of how to prepare foods. They incorporated that knowledge with the ingredients they found here, such as those lobsters or crawfish. Their work laid the foundation for many of the dishes that can be found on tables in restaurants and at home across our country.
The late Cornelius White working on an oyster skipjack on the Chesapeake Bay (Source: Visit Annapolis) |
These stories are our history. They are important. They should not be reserved for one month in a year. They deserve to be told over and over again, because their contribution needs to be recognized, not forgotten. In the end, each of these stories is proof that there is so much more than what is simply on a plate. That has become the purpose of my blog. Only time will tell if I can fulfill it.
WEST AFRICAN-STYLE BROILED LOBSTER TAILS
Recipe by Michael Twitty, available at Luke's Lobster
Serves 2
Ingredients:
- 1 inch piece of roughly chopped fresh turmeric or 2 teaspoons of powdered turmeric
- 1/2 bunch flat leaf or curly parsley, chopped
- 2 celery stalks, leaves and all, roughly chopped
- 3 green onions (scallions), sliced,
- 7 cloves garlic, smashed
- 1 small red onion, sliced
- 1 small Scotch Bonnet pepper (spicy) or 1 medium red bell pepper (not spicy), stem removed and chopped
- 1 crushed small Maggi cube
- 1 tablespoon canola oil
Saturday, February 5, 2022
Around the World in 80 Dishes: Canada
I decided to approach this challenge as I did my challenge to cook a main course from Spain, that is, I start with a random address. From that point, I could build the challenge. The problem is that the random address generator provided me with half a dozen addresses, spread across the country. When I found a generator that would give me one address, the website put me in Melfort, Saskatchewan. A city in the middle of a Canadian province that itself is close to the middle of Canada. Now that I had my location, I could move on to the next question: what is the cuisine of Saskatchewan?
For starters, Saskatchewan has the largest proportion of indigenous peoples to the general population of all the Canadian provinces. There are seventy (70) First Nations in the province, with five linguistic groups: Nehiyawak (Cree), Dakota (Sioux), Dene (Chipewyan), Nakota (Assniboine) and Nahkawininiwak (Salteaux). Those nations have arrived in the area approximately 11,000 years ago. They established complex societies on the plains, with cultures recognizing that they were a part of, but not central to all that was around them. The closeness to the land and the environment is a critical part of their beliefs and societies, which also included a recognition of the need to share food and other necessities.
Over the centuries, other groups emigrated and migrated to the Canadian plains. One such group is the Doukhobors, ethnic Russians who, although Christian, rejected the Russian Orthodox church. Doukhobors practiced a different kind of Christianity, one based more on spiritualism. Doukhobors believe that the Bible is not enough, that they have to internalize the living spirit of God. They are pacifists who tended to live in their own communities, rejecting materialism but working together. Needless to say, the Russian government mistreated the Doukhobors, leading to their wish to emigrate to other countries. The government agreed in 1897 to let them leave Russia, but with three conditions: (1) they never return; (2) they pay their own way; and (3) their imprisoned leaders remained incarcerated before they could leave. Many accepted those conditions and they left for Canada, settling in southern Saskatchewan (as well as southern Alberta and British Columbia). Once they arrived, they established "colonies" in block settlement areas or reserves. These included the "Thunder Hill Colony," the "Whitesand Colony," the "Good Spirit Lake Annex," and the "Rosthern Colony."
I have decided that, for this challenge, I would make two recipes from these two ethnic groups. I would first make Bannock, which has its ties to Native American cuisine in the province. I would then turn to the main course, Shishlik, or the kebabs of the Russian immigrants. This latter dish will satisfy the personal culinary challenge.
BREAD
Bannock is a type of bread that originated in Scotland, where is was known as bannach or "morsel." The Scottish prepared used wheat flour to make this bread, which is really like a big biscuit. They cooked the bread by a fire using a griddle known as a Bannock Stone. Bannock could be made in other ways, such as frying it or baking it.
Scottish explorers and traders brought bannock with them as they made their way across the new world, including the United States and Canada. Some indigenous peoples, such as the Metis, adopted the bread and made it their own. Rather than using wheat, as the Scots did, the indigenous people used corn flour or flour made from local plants to prepare the bread.
For this recipe, I wanted to try to recreate the bread using recipes from Saskatchewan. One recipe paired the Bannock with chokecherry syrup. Chokecherries are tart and bitter little berries. The range of these little berries runs from the plains of Canada south to the northern United States. The berries served as an important part of the diet for indigenous nations who lived in that region. While I searched to find chokecherries online, I was unable to do so (most likely because I was making this recipe out of season). If one cannot find chokecherries, the recommended substitute is tart cherries. However, I could not find tart cherries in the store and I did not want to buy them online. In the end, I decided that I would simply use some cranberries that I had in the freezer, which were left over from the holidays.
BANNOCK (LUSKNIKN) WITH CHOKECHERRY SYRUP
Recipe from Jenni Lenard, available at Refinery29
Ingredients (for the bannock):
- 3 cups whole wheat flour
- 3 cups all-purpose flour
- 3 tablespoons baking powder
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1/8 cup brown sugar
- 1/2 cup oil or melted lard
- 3 to 3 1/2 cups cold water
- 2 cups chokecherries, rinsed well (substitute tart cherries)
- 2 cups water
- 3 cups sugar
- 1 tablespoon lemon juice
- 2 pounds of chicken, pork or lamb, cut into 1 1/2 inch cubes
- Large onions sliced
- Kosher salt
- Freshly ground black pepper
- Canola oil
Tuesday, February 1, 2022
Chengdu Chicken with Black Beans, Chiles, and Peanuts
The new ingredients: toban djan and douchi (fermented black beans) |