The golden statute of the Turkmenbashi. (Source: Souvenir Chronicles) |
Waiting in line for food (Source: Asia News) |
MAIN COURSE
It is against this backdrop that I approach this challenge to prepare a main course from the country of Turkmenistan. The cuisine shares many similarities with those of other central Asian countries, such as Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan. The most notable similarity is the predominance of plov or pilaf (rice with meat and vegetables). There is the legacy of Russian control, as illustrated by shashlyk (kebabs). And then there are the truly Turkmen dishes, such as ishlykly (a Turkmen version of shepherd's pie) and chegdermeh (a mixture of rice, tomato, meat and onions).
However, I chose to prepare Dograma, which roughly translates to "chopped up." The name is fitting because it is a shredded meat and bread stew. I chose this meal because of its simplicity, both in terms of ingredients and preparation. In so doing, I thought that this dish as a type of cucina povera, in which struggling people would use what little they have to make the best meal possible. (This is somewhat a fantasy given the current food shortages in Turkmenistan.) In any event, it is my nod to those impoverished Turkmen peoples who cannot be seen through the dark curtains that enshroud the country.
In terms of preparing this dish, the principal ingredients are protein and bread. The recipe called for lamb, mutton or beef. I did not have easy access to mutton (which would most likely be the protein of choice), so I went with lamb, which would have been cheaper than beef. As for the bread, Turkmen prepare corek, which is a leavened bread cooked in an oven similar to a tandoor. While I thought about preparing the bread, my lack of baking skills led me to the next best thing: a bag of pita bread. The recipe advises that pita or naan could be used for a substitute.
This simple recipe turned out to be a very delicious one. The boiling of the lamb resulted in fork-tender morsels that were relatively easy to shred. It also produced a rather rich broth, created by the melting of the lamb fat into the broth. Perhaps the next time I will make my own corek bread for this dish.
DOGRAMA (SHREDDED MEAT & BREAD STEW)
Recipe from Whats4Eats
Serves 4
Ingredients:
- Mutton, lamb or beef stew meat, cubed, 2 1/2 to 3 pounds
- 3 quarts water
- 2-3 tomatoes, seeded & chopped
- 1 tablespoon salt
- Naan or pita bread, 4 to 5 pieces
- 2-3 onions, thinly sliced
- Salt, to season
- Freshly ground black pepper, to season
Directions:
1. Boil the ingredients. Add the meat, water, tomatoes and salt a large pot and bring to a boil. Skim off any scum that rises to the surface and then reduce heat to medium, cover and simmer for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, or until the meat is cooked through and tender.
2. Tear the bread. Tear the pita or naan bread into small (1/2 inch pieces). Add the pieces of bread to a large bowl, along with the sliced onions and a good grinding of pepper. Toss and set aside to rest and mix the flavors.
3. Shred the meat. Remove the cooked meat from the broth with a slotted spoon. Use clean hands or a fork to shred the meat. Add the meat to with the bread and onion mixture and toss well.
4. Finish the dish. Pour the hot meat broth over the mixture in the bowl and then cover the bowl with a towel or plastic wrap and set aside for 20 to 30 minutes to allow the flavors and textures to meld. Portion out into bowls and serve.
* * *
My personal culinary challenge takes me on some rather interesting adventures, even to lands where cults of personality reign supreme while the masses struggle every day. The lesson of these adventures is to focus on those who struggle, learning more about a particular culture and cuisine through their eyes, as opposed to those of the Turkmenbashi or the Protector. I think I did that with this particular challenge. Until next time ...
ENJOY!
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