Last Call

They say one should never judge a book by its cover; and, one should never buy a bottle of wine based on the label. I am pretty sure that latter rule also applies to beer. If it does, then I broke that rule when I purchased a six pack of Forward Brewing's Last Call. I totally bought it because of the label. 

The label features artwork based on the photography of Jay Fleming.  If you live in the Chesapeake Bay region, you may have heard of his photography. Fleming stands out as one of the premier photographers, not just of the beauty of the bay's natural environment, but also of the culture of those who live there and make their living there.  Fleming has published two books, Working the Water and Island Life, both of which I have read cover to cover. He has also published a long list of articles, as well as has his photography for sale. I have long wanted to buy one of this photographs to be framed for our house, but every time I look at the website, I ultimately can't decide which one to purchase. (To get a look into my dilemma, the three pictures that I have gone back and forth are this one, this one and this one.) 

As that internal struggle continues, I was perusing the beer aisle of one of my favorite local haunts when I came across a six pack of Forward Brewing's Last Call. The Annapolis-based brewery collaborated with Jay Fleming, whose artwork - a photo of a fishing vessel named Last Call - is featured on the label. As a huge fan of Fleming's work, as well as a big fan of pale ales, I bought a six pack.

The Last Call is a traditional Pale Ale, which the brewers describe having been brewed with "flaked rye, Idaho Gem and Citra Hops." The brewers also describe the taste of the beer as "juicy and citrusy, with pineapple and subtle notes of spice." 

The beer pours a light golden color, which one could expect from a pale ale, with a slight haze. The citrus notes are on the nose, reinforcing the brewers' description. Those citrus notes come through on the palate as well. I can see the hints of pineapple, but I also think other citrus fruits, such as lemon, are present in each sip. As for the spice notes, they were not so present for me, but they could be present for someone else who tries this beer. 

Overall, this is a very drinkable beer, especially with an ABV of 6%. While I may have bought it for the label, I walked away with a six pack of a pale ale that makes me want to bypass my usual haunt and make my way to the brewery's taproom. If you happen to come across a six pack of the Last Call, pick up a six pack. There is more to this beer than just the label (which, I still love). 

PEACE.

Tacos de Chapulines con Tequila y Guacamole

One of the benefits of a personal food blog, as well as the desire to learn more about food, is the moment of discovery. If I just lived my life in a suburban city in the United States, in my own little bubble or cocoon of daily existence, there is a lot that I would never, ever come across. This blog has served as the primary means through which I can learn more about food. It has led me down paths that I know I would never have walked otherwise. 

One such path led me to eating fried grasshoppers.

They are called chapulines, and, have been a fixture of the cuisine of indigenous peoples in Mexico and Central America. The little grasshoppers were an important source of protein before Spanish conquistadors and colonizers brought domesticated animals like pigs and cows. People would head out early in the morning, when it was cooler, to collect the grasshoppers. (Apparently, grasshoppers are less active when it is cooler, rather than in the heat of the day.) They would bring back the catch, and prepare them on a comal, which is a flat, cast iron griddle on which the grasshoppers would be toasted or fried. Once cooked, the grasshoppers would be seasoned with garlic, lime, salt and chiles. 

To state the obvious, I did not go out into fields to catch grasshoppers. I also did not toast them on a comal or any other griddle. As someone who lives in the suburbs of a city, I ordered a package of chapulines online. The grasshoppers came pre-seasoned with salt, lime and chiles, which was okay for the preparation that I had in mind. 

My goal was to recreate my very first experience eating chapulines. It was at Oyamel, a restaurant owned by renown chef, Jose Andres. The restaurant's menu included (and still includes) a chapulines taco. The menu described the taco as including grasshoppers sautéed with shallots, tequila and served with guacamole. Channeling my inner Andrew Zimmern (the host of Bizarre Foods), I ordered the taco. When I took my first bite, I noted the crunchy texture of the grasshoppers, which was well contrasted with the smoothness of the guacamole. 

For my effort, I decided to give a little nod to the region of Mexico that is most associated with chapulines ... Oaxaca. I found a recipe for Oaxacan guacamole from Bricia Lopez's Oaxaca cookbook (which is an excellent cookbook). That would serve as the basis for my taco. I then used the grasshoppers I purchased online, sautéing them in some oil with the shallots and finishing it with what was basically a shot of tequila. 

The recipe was very good, reminding me of what graces the plate at Oyamel. The biggest difference was the saltiness of the chapulines, which was due to the package that I purchased. When I make this dish in the future, I will have to figure a way to lightly rinse off some of that salt. This rinse will be necessary especially if (and when) and I try to incorporate them into other recipes, such as tlyuda.

TACOS DE CHAPULINES CON TEQUILA Y GUACAMOLE

Guacamole recipe from Bricia Lopez, Oaxaca, pg. 252

Serves 4

Ingredients (for the tacos):

• Corn tortillas
• 1 cup chapulines (plain, lime/salt, adobo or chipotle)
• 2-3 tablespoons tequila
• 1/4 small shallots, julienned or chopped finely
• 2 tablespoons olive oil or vegetable oil

Ingredients (for the guacamole):

• 6 tablespoons fresh lime juice
• 1 teaspoon sea salt
• 1 cup fresh cilantro, chopped
• 1 serrano chile, stem removed
• 1/4 dried oregano
• 3 avocados, pitted and peeled

Directions:

1. Prepare the guacamole. Blend the lime juice, cilantro, sea salt, chile and oregano in a blender. In a large mixing bowl, mash the avocados. Pour the lime mixture over top and mix until everything is well combined.

2. Prepare the chapulines. Heat the oil in a skillet. Add the shallots and sauté for a few minutes. Add the chapulines and continue to fry until crispy. Add the tequila and keep stirring for another minute or two. 

3. Finish the dish. Warm the corn tortillas. Spoon the guacamole in the center of the taco and top with the chapulines. Serve immediately. 

PEACE. 

Black Pork Curry

Everything I read tells me that black curry is essential to Sri Lankan cuisine. I can believe that premise, but I have spent a lot of time trying to find an answer as to why that would be the case. Readers of this blog know of my love for curries generally and of Sri Lankan cuisine in particular. (Quick update for others: Sri Lanka basically curries everything.) 

There are a wide range of curry powders in Sri Lanka, but black curry seems to stand out.  It seems to be a uniquely Sri Lankan curry powder. (There is a "black curry" that arose in Japanese cuisine, but it is different than what I am talking about here - that will be saved for another post.) I have not been able to find a similar curry blend in any of the other subcontinent cuisines. 

It may be simply another way to describe roasted curry powder, which is definitely a Sri Lankan thing. I have a lot of roasted curry powder on hand and have used it to prepare roasted curry wings and an oyster curry.

For this recipe, I have prepared a black curry featuring pork. The curry mix combines roasted Sri Lankan curry powder with some other traditional ingredients, such as cardamom, cinnamon, and black pepper. The use of tamarind also helps to darken the color of the mixture, perhaps adding to the description of a black curry. The only substitution that I made was to add a roasted chile powder, which I had purchased from a Sri Lankan market a while back. That powder was also extra hot, which helped to reinforce the kick of this dish. 

In the end, this black pork curry was amazing. The only downside is that, while it serves four, I found myself eating a serving for two because it was so good. I will definitely need to make this dish more often. 

BLACK PORK CURRY

Recipe from The Flavor Bender

Serves 4

Ingredients (for the marinade):

• 4 teaspoons black pepper, whole
• 6 cardamom pod seeds, crushed
• 1 heaping teaspoon of Sri Lankan roasted curry powder
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 3 teaspoons tamarind paste

Ingredients (for the curry):

• 1.5 pounds pork loin chops or shoulder
• 2 jalapeno peppers, sliced (or serrano peppers) for more heat
• 1 inch of peeled ginger, minced
• 3 garlic cloves minced
• 1/2 medium onion, chopped
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice (optional)
• 2-3 bay leaves
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• Salt to taste

Directions:

1. Prepare the pork. Cut the pork into 1/2 to 1 inch cubes. If the pork has bones, add those to the curry as well. 

2. Prepare the masala. Crush the cardamom pods into a powder and mix it with the black pepper, curry powder, salt, cinnamon and cayenne pepper. Crush and mix all of this together using a mortar and pestle. Add 2 tablespoons of this spice mix, tamarind paste and 1 tablespoon of oil to the pork and mix to coat. Leave to marinate for a few hours or overnight in a refrigerator.

3. Prepare the curry. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the bay leaves, ginger and onions and sauté until the onions become translucent. Add the garlic and sliced jalapeno peppers and sauté for another 30 seconds. Add the marinated pork and sugar and stir t o mix well. Add about 1/2 cup of water and bring this to a boil. Lower the heat to medium low and let it simmer for 1 hour. Check on the curry and add extra water if it dries out.

4. Finish the dish. Taste and add more salt and some lemon juice if needed.

PEACE.

Mango Gazpacho

Picture yourself in a place with a contrast of landscapes: mountains rising in the background, with cliffs that give way to valleys. As one proceeds into the valleys, they would find olive trees and almond trees, along with orange and lemon groves. The greenery is broken up by small towns that still retain their moorish character, with squares and fountains. If you can picture this scenery in your mind, you have taken yourself to the region of Andalusia, Spain, known as La Axarquia.

Apart from the beautiful surroundings, the region is also particularly known for one agricultural commodity (above and beyond the almonds, olives, lemons and oranges) ... the European mango. That landscape provides the basis for La Axarquia to fashion itself as "the home" of that fruit. Of course, it takes more than a few mountains, valleys and greenery to grow mangos. La Axarquia has a subtropical climate that provides more than 300 days of sunlight per year, with temperatures that range often from the mid 70s to the mid 80s Fahrenheit in the summer. 

There are five different mango varieties that are cultivated in La Axarquia. The most common one is known as the Osteen. It makes up more than half of the production. (Interesting side note: the Osteen mango originated in Merritt, Island Florida, named after the Osteen family who lived there and first cultivated this particular type of mango back in 1935. It made its way to Spain thereafter.) The remaining four mango varieties - the Kent, Tommy Atkins, Keitt, and Red Palme -- constitute the remainder of the mangos cultivated in the region. (Another side note: the Tommy Atkins is probably the most popular mango in the United States.)

It seemed to be only a matter of time until the mango of La Axarquia would be incorporated into a dish of Andalucia, namely, gazpacho. This particular version of gazpacho relies more on citrus, namely orange juice and lime juice, than a traditional gazpacho. It is just my speculation, but it may be an effort to balance the sweetness of the mango. The recipe does include more traditional ingredients, such as bell pepper, cucumber, onions, and garlic. These ingredients, when pureed, help to give the soup some texture and depth. 

The end result is a very different and very delicious take on gazpacho. I am sure that the mangos I were probably of the Tommy Atkins variety, as opposed to the Osteen mango. The former varietal tends to be more tart with sweet notes, while the latter seems to be the inverse, more sweet with touches of acidity or tartness. Now that I have prepared this dish, as well as learned about the different mangos out there, I will have to be more mindful when I am in the store.  If I ever come across Osteen mangos, then I could truly transport myself culinarily to La Axarquia.

MANGO GAZPACHO

Recipe from Sprig and Vine

Serves 6

Ingredients (for the gazpacho):

• 2 cups diced mangoes
• 2 cups orange juice
• 1 cucumber, diced
• 1 red or yellow bell pepper diced
• 1/2 red onion, diced
• 1 clove garlic
• 3-4 tablespoons lime juice
• 1 jalapeno
• 3 tablespoons chopped coriander (cilantro)
• Salt, to taste
• Pepper, to taste

Ingredients (for the toppings):

• 1 cup of finely diced mango, cucumber, bell pepper
• 1 cup micro greens (optional)

Directions:

1. Blend the gazpacho ingredients. Blend the mangoes and orange juice in a blender until smooth and pureed. Add the cucumber, bell pepper, onion, garlic, lime juice, olive oil and jalapeno, along with a cup of iced water and blend again. Add more water if you want a thinner consistency, or leave it as is for a thicker gazpacho.

2. Season the gazpacho. Season with salt and pepper. Taste and adjust according to preference: add more lime juice for zing, chile for heat, etc. Stir in coriander (cilantro).

3. Chill the gazpacho. Let the gazpacho chill in the refrigerator for 4-6 hours before serving. This allows the flavors to mingle. 

4. Finish the dish. To serve, divide into bowls. Top with the mix of mangoes, cucumber and and bell pepper. Garnish with microgreens, if using. 

PEACE.

Poul Nan Sous

"People often think of Haiti as a place where you are not supposed to have any joy. I want to show that this is a place where you can have joy. 

-- Edwidge Danticat

These words caught my attention because of their truth. The public discourse about Haiti in recent days, weeks, months and even years, focuses on the negative. And, to be sure, there have been a lot of negative things going on in Haiti for most of its existence (which dates back to 1804, when it became the first independent, African-American country in the Western Hemisphere). 

Haitian-American Edwidge Danticat's observation reminds me that there is more to Haiti than all of the bad news. There are stories of independence, resilience, resourcefulness, and, there are stories of joy. One such story that I found over and over as I did some research for this post revolves around the dish, Poul Nan Sous.

One can find quite a few recipes for this dish, which translates from Poul Nan Sous into "Chicken in Sauce." Many of those recipes often come with memories of eating the dish with family. For example, Gregory Gourdet wrote in Food & Wine that this dish would greet him whenever he visited his "Memere" (forgive me for I can't get the accents). Others recount this dish in a very similar way, tying it to memories of family meals, where loved ones would gather together and be able to enjoy the stewed chicken as it rested in a spicy, garlicky sauce. 

Yet, Poul Nan Sous is not only a source for joyful memories, it also has greater significance. As Chef Chris Viand explains, the chicken is marinated in an epis, which he refers to as the "go-to marinade" for Haitian cuisine. The marinade typically consists of habanero peppers, multi-colored bell peppers, garlic, lime juice, olive oil, scallions, parsley and thyme. Not only can this marinade be used to prepare meat, but it is also used in preparing rice dishes. 

As is the case with any recipe, there can be as many variations as there are cooks. The recipe I used to prepare Poul Nan Sous had a more simplified epis, as there were no bell peppers or parsley (all of which were added later in the stew), but there was the addition of other citrus (lime juice and orange juice). The chicken was marinated with onions, with is common throughout all of these recipes. And, while each cook may have their own way to prepare the stew, the one thing that unites them is that the resulting dish must have a deep color. One does not want their guest to respond, "si vyann lan two blan" (or, "the meat is too white"). 

In the end, I prepared this dish and I can see why it becomes the focal point of a person's memory around family meals. The chicken took on, not just the color of the stew, but the kick from the Scotch Bonnet peppers, the garlic and the citrus of the marinade. In the end, I was left wanting some bread that I could use to sop up the leftover liquid from the stew. This will be a dish that I will make again ... and again ... and again.

POUL NAN SOUS

Recipe from Food & Wine

Serves 4 to 6

Ingredients (for the marinade):

• 3 pounds mixed bone-in chicken thighs and drumsticks, patted dry
• 3 tablespoons kosher salt
• 1 juicy orange, halved
• 1 juicy lime, halved
• 1 juicy lemon, halved
• 2 medium yellow onions, halved and thinly sliced
• 8 garlic cloves, sliced
• 2 Scotch Bonnet or habanero chiles, cut in half and sliced thin
• 1/4 cup fresh thyme leaves

Ingredients (for the stew):

• 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 1/2 cup tomato paste
• 1 tablespoon kosher salt
• 2 red bell peppers, seeded and deveined, cut into long, thin slices
• 2 yellow bell peppers, seeded and deveined, cut into long, thin slices
• 2 cups chicken stock, salted homemade or store bought
• Small handful of roughly chopped parsley

Directions:

1.    Marinate the chicken. Put the chicken pieces in a large bowl and season with salt. Squeeze the citrus halves over the chicken and then spend a minute or so rubbing the cut sides of the citrus against the chicken. Add the onions, garlic, chile and thyme and toss well, rubbing the chicken as you do. Cover and marinate in the fridge for at least 12 hours or up to 48 hours. 

2.     Reserve the marinade. Preheat the oven at 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Remove the chicken from the marinade, guiding any stuck-on aromatics back into the bowl. Set a strainer over a small mixing bowl. Pour the marinade through the straining reserving the solids and the liquids. 

3.     Brown the chicken. Heat the oil in a wide heavy, ovenproof pot (such as a 3 1/2 quart braiser) over medium high heat until just shimmery. Cook the chicken, skin side down, occasionally turning the drumsticks but not the thighs, until the skin is a deep brown, about 8 minutes. Transfer the chicken pieces to a plate. 

4.     Prepare the stew. Reduce the heat to medium low and add the tomato paste and salt, and cook, stirring often, until it turns several shades darker, about 3 minutes. Add the bell peppers and reserved solids from the marinade and cook, stirring occasionally until the peppers soften slightly and take on a little color, about 8 to 10 minutes. 

5.     Finish the dish. Return the chicken to the pan, skin side up and in a single layer. Then take a minute to pile the peppers, onions and other aromatics on top of the chicken. Then evenly pour in the reserved liquid from the marinade, along with the stock. Cook in the oven, basting every 15 minutes to coat the chicken with the peppers and sauce, until the sauce has thickened slightly and the meat pulls off the bone with a gentle tug from a fork, about 1 hour. Garnish with parsley and serve.

PEACE.