Jiaoma Jipian (Chicken in Sichuan Peppercorn and Scallion Sauce)

Although I have been cooking for years, I find that I still have a lot to learn. This observation rings especially true as I explore the cuisines of different cultures around the world. My explorations take me back to one of my favorite regional cuisines, at least in China. That cuisine can be found in the Sichuan province. The cuisine has a special place for me because it caters to my love of spicy food. Yet, the spice does not always come from the use of hot chiles, such as the Tien Tsin. In the Sichuan province, "spice" does not always equate to "heat."

There is a different kind of "spice," namely numbness, which comes from the Sichuan peppercorn. That is not actually a pepper; instead, it is the berry from the prickly ash tree. I previously explored this ingredient when I made Qiatou Ni Yen, which is a hot chicken dish from Sichuan province. The recipe came from Fuschia Dunlop's The Food of Sichuan. Dunlop's book provides a fascinating look at the region's cuisine, and, I have quite a few recipes that I have wanted to make from the book. 

This recipe represents a return to that book and the cuisine, but with a twist. I chose to prepare Jiaoma Jipian. The word, jiaoma, refers to the Sichuan peppercorn; and, this dish features that ingredient in the sauce. The sauce combines a modest amount of the peppercorns with a lot of scallion greens and some salt. These ingredients are then combined with a mixture of sesame oil, soy sauce and cold chicken broth or stock. 

Once the sauce is prepared, it is poured over some pre-cooked chicken that has been cut into bite-sized pieces. The recipes typically leave it to the cook as to how to prepare the chicken. However, I decided to poach the chicken because I could use the liquid in the preparation of the sauce. So, I used some bone-in chicken thighs, as both the bone and the skin would help to flavor the broth as the chicken cooked.  

This recipe represents a departure from what I generally make. As I think about it, I usually make hot dishes, whether meat or vegetable, appetizer or main course. It is relatively rare for me to prepare a cold dish. However, this dish was very easy to prepare. A simple poaching of the chicken (which Fuschia Dunlop provides instructions for in her book) and an equally simple combination of the sauce ingredients. 

In the end, this dish is very delicious. The only change that I might make is to add some more Sichuan peppercorns because I did not get as much of the numbing effect as I expected. It works just like chiles: the amount can be adjusted if you want more of the heat (or numbing feeling) or reduced if you want less of that effect. Something to try the next time that I prepare this dish. 

JIOMA JIPIAN

(Chicken in Sichuan Pepper and Scallion Sauce)

Recipe from Fuschia Dunlop, The Food of Sichuan, page 71

Serves 4

Ingredients:

• 14 ounces cold poached chicken meat, off the bone
• 1/2 teaspoon whole Sichuan pepper
• 1 3/4 ounces scallion greens
• 1 teaspoon light soy sauce
• 2 Teaspoons sesame oil
• 7-8 tablespoons cold chicken stock
• Salt

Directions:

1.  Prepare the chicken. Cut the chicken into bite-size slices. Place in a serving dish.

2. Prepare the sauce. Cover the Sichuan pepper with a little warm water and let soak for about 20 minutes. Wash the scallion greens thoroughly, shake dry, and then slice thinly. Place on a chopping board with the drained Sichuan peppercorns and a pinch of salt, then use a sharp knife or mezzaluna to chop them together extremely finely. 

3. Finish the sauce. Transfer the chopped ingredients to a small bowl, then add the soy sauce, if using, along with the sesame oil and 7 tablespoons of stock and mix well. If you are not using soy sauce, add an extra tablespoon of stock and season with salt to taste. 

4. Finish the dish. Pour the sauce over the chicken. Mix well before eating. 

PEACE.