Chile Verde Guacamole

If one looks at a guacamole recipe, they will most likely see an ingredientlist that includes avocados, as well as perhaps tomatoes, onions, and cilantro. Almost all of those recipes have lime juice as an ingredient. But, as it turns out and I soon learned, that not all guacamole is prepared with lime juice. 

That happens to be the case in the Mexican State of Sonora. Chefs and cooks prepare their guacamole with out the added juice. Instead, they use other ingredients to provide additional layers of flavor, such as roasted anaheim chiles, to to enhance the "heat" of the dish, such as serrano chiles. 

A preparation of guacamole without lime juice may seem out of the ordinary (at least it did to me). However, I like to think that the Sonorans may be holding onto something that reflects a more traditional method. Something that goes back centuries. 

Allow me to explain.  The domestication of avocados in Mexico can be dated back at least 5,000 B.C.E. The dish that we know as "guacamole" is not as old, with its history going back to 14th to 16th centuries. At this time, the Aztec empire controlled much of central Mexico. History has accounts of Aztecs preparing a spread consisting of mashed avocados, along with added tomatoes, onions and chiles. That spread pretty much sums up guacamole. The name of that spread, ahuacatl  (avocado) and molli (sauce), gives us the term "guacamole." The Aztecs did not use lime juice, even though they did use that ingredient in other dishes. So, in a sense, the Sonoran way of preparing guacamole tracks the traditional and historical method of the Aztecs, at least with regard to the absence of lime juice. 

One final note: this particular Sonoran guacamole recipe adds two types of chiles - a roasted Anaheim chile and a serrano chile. The latter chile obviously provides heat to the dish and, if a serrano is too much heat for you, then you can substitute a jalapeno pepper. But, don't use a green pepper, you need to have some kick in the guacamole. The former chile chile provides some smoky and even sweet elements.  If you cannot find Anaheim chiles, you can substitute a poblano pepper. 

CHILE VERDE GUACAMOLE

Recipe from NYT Cooking

Yields 3 cups

Ingredients:

• 1 fresh Anaheim chile
• 1 serrano chile, finely chopped
• 3 tablespoons finely chopped white onion
• 2 tavblespoons coarsely chopped cilantro leaves and tender stems
• 1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt, plus more to taste
• 3 ripe avacados, haved and pitted, diced and mashed

Directions: 

1. Prepare the Anaheim chile. Place the Anaheim chile on a small baking sheet covred with aluminum foil. Roast it under the broiler, flipping a couple of times, until the chile is wilted and its skin is completely charred and wrinkly. (Alternatively, you can char the chile direclty on a hot comal or a cast-rion pan set over medium heat, or a grill set to high.)

2. Continue to prepare the Anaheim chile. Place the charred Anaheim chile in a plastic bag and close it well. Let it steam and sweat for 5 to 10 minutes. 

3. Prepare the rest of the ingredients. As the Anaheim chile steams, add the serrano chile, onion, cilantro and salt in a bowl or molcajete, and mash until combined. add the avacado and continue to mix and mash until you have formed a chunky puree.

4. Finish the dish. Once the Anaheim chile is cool to handle, remove fromthe bag, slip off the charred skin adn make a slit down the side and remove the seeds and stem. You could rinse the chile under a thin stream of water to help remove the seeds or rinse it off by dipping it into a bowl of water. Finely chop the Anaheim chile. Add to the avocado mixture and stir to combine. Season to taste with salt. 

PEACE.