The history of the vaqueros goes all the way back to the Spanish conquistadors and colonialists, who brought cattle to the region in the sixteenth century. Missionaries encouraged the indigenous people to raise cattle, alongside the beans, corn and squash that they planted. Over the decades and centuries, cattle production increased so much that Sonora was among the top producers of beef in Mexico.
However, recent times have made that livelihood harder to maintain. The Sonoran region has suffered from droughts. The interplay of both conditions has made it more difficult to raise cattle in the Mexican state. Back in 2021, the ongoing drought forced authorities to cut off water to farms that produce alfalfa, which is used to feed the cows, because of the falling water levels. That led to the doubling of the price of alfalfa, which made it harder to continue to raise cattle. The situation will only get worse, as experts predict that the average rainfall in the area will decrease by 20% to 30% by the second half of this century, while temperatures will rise as high as 122 degrees Fahrenheit.
Despite a very uncertain future, beef plays an important role in Sonoran cuisine. The Sonoran way of preparing beef is particularly simple, emphasizing certain cuts, like brisket or top sirloin, over an open flame. Indeed, as one person put it, "red meat is considered a birthright" in Sonora. It is a tradition borne from the cattle ranchers. Another key component of Sonoran cuisine are tortillas.
Carne Asada brings together beef and tortillas; and, the Sonoran preparation stands on its own. I have made carne asada many times in the past; and, those efforts usually begin with a marinade of citrus (orange, lemon and lime), along with chiles, herbs and spices. However, in Sonora, carne asada does not begin with the marinade. That caught me off guard. When I found a recipe for Sonoran Carne Asada, which is the one below, I had to do further research to verify that was the preparation. And, it makes sense. Vaqueros would not have had easy access to oranges, lemons and limes out on the prairie; they would not have small plots to grow chiles or cilantro. They had beef, and the makings for a fire. This explains why Sonoran carne asada revels in its simple preparation.
SONORAN CARNE ASADA TACOS
Recipe from NYT Cooking
Serves 6-8
Directions:
- 1/4 white onion, for cleaning the grill
- Beef fat (cut ffrom the meat, if fatty), tallow or vegetable oil, for greasing the grill
- 2 pounds of chuck roll, sliced into 1/2 inch steaks
- 2 pounds of top sirloin, sliced into 1/2 inch steaks
- 4 teaspoons kosher or sea salt, or to taste
- Frioles de Fiesta, for serving
- Salsa Tatemade Nortena (Fire Roasted Salsa) or other salsa, for serving
- Chile Verde Guacamole or other guacamole, for serving
- 12 to 16 large tortillas
Directions:
1. Start the grill. Start a charcoal or gas grill and get it very hot. For gas, set to high heat. For charcoal, the grill is ready when the coals are red but entirly covered with gray ash, adn you can hold your hand about 5-6 inches above the coals for only about 4-5 seconds beffore it becomes too hot.
2. Clean and season the grill. Using a pair of tongs, rub a quarter of a white onion over the grill. Next rub the beef fat or a paper towel soaked in vegetable oil over the grill to season it further.
3. Grill the meat. Working in batches if needed to avoid crowding, place the meat over the hot grill. Season the meat generously with salt on top right before trowing it on the grill, salt side up. (Alternatively sprinkle the top of the meat once it is on the grill). Grill for 4 to 5 minutes until the bottom has seared, deep grill marks have developed and the meat juices have started to rise and bubble over the top. Flip to the second side and grill for another 3-4 ,minutes for medium. Remove the meat and place in a lidded dish or container. Cover the cooked meat while you grill the remainder. Allow the meat to rest 5 minutes.
4. Prepare the meat. One by one take out the pieces of meat and cut into 1/2-inch dice, placing them back in the lidded dish until all of the meat has been chopped.
5. Ready the sides. Make sure that the refried beans are hot. Set them on the table, along with the salsa and guacamole in separate bowls.
6. Prepare the tortillas. Reduce the heat of the grill to medium if using gass or if using charcoal, set the flour tortillas on the cooler part of the grill. Heat the flour tortillas about 1 minute or so per side until puffed, lightly browned and completely heated through. Keep warm on a clean kitchen towl or tortilla warmer and bring to the table.
7. Finish the dish. To assemble the tacos, a common practice is to grab a warm flour tortilla, spread some refried beans on the middle, add a generous amount of meat, then add salsa and guacamole on top to taste.
PEACE.
